PVC y pipe gt40 muffler delete

this isn't the place I'd try to save a buck -- and usually when I can save a buck, I would. If you're purely removing the muffler, you'd need what, 3' per side of 3" copper? ~$200 total? so why try to save $150 on something below the waterline. my $.02

Was just something I read once, but it seems plausible in theory. A tennis ball diameter is 2.7 inches, not sure what exhaust tip inside diameter is exactly, maybe wrap in a rag first. Anything would be worth a try to not go down without a fight.

Mine has a transom ladder and no platform so they'd be easy to get to, not sure I'd wanna try it with a platform boat

How much more resistant to heat are the fiberglass/epoxy components such as the hull hugger muffler, Invertaflo muffler, or in the case of the hull hugger, the fiberglass sections that go from the riser to the muffler? I've already had to replace one of those due to overtightening and probably heat from the PO years ago.

STFU = Shut The Freak Up. I have seem the word Freak replaced with a more colorful alternative.

M3Fan wrote: How much more resistant to heat are the fiberglass/epoxy components such as the hull hugger muffler, Invertaflo muffler, or in the case of the hull hugger, the fiberglass sections that go from the riser to the muffler? I've already had to replace one of those due to overtightening and probably heat from the PO years ago.

Joel,
You can NOT compare a thermoset to a thermoplastic. They are two completely different types of non metalics. Go back to your BMW!! It was not heat that busted up your hull hugger. Vibration and a cheap build/poor engineering if you ask me.

Great idea if you are only looking for a test method. NOT a permanent solution. The pvc will fail and boat will sink. The resins used on the exhaust components are different, if you try to patch one of those using standard boat resin, it will not hold together over time. I agree with the idea of if you like how it sounds, spend the money and get the proper setup to avoid a catastrophe. My $.02

Have you thought about gutting the muffler?

DayTony wrote: I have a y pipe that might work for you, what exactly are you looking for? I have this pipe which you could probably modify. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-marine-muffler-XT-TPD-3504-Centek-Industries-1200442-surge-tube-3-/121693132400?hash=item1c5579d670&vxp=mtr

That's a great deal. If he's not interested, I might be if it will work on our '92

Here's the one I need it's on sale for $128.http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Centek_Exhaust_System_3_Y_Fitting.html?gclid=CIDfp8OOtccCFY09gQod98cHLw

No. The Y-pipes replace the hull hugger muffler, not the invertaflows. You would need downtubes and then a Y pipe for the older boats.

Starting in '92, all small block PCM's got 3.5" risers, not 3".

turningpoint84 wrote: Anyone ever thought about "T" off a 1/4" water line from the Cold Water pick up after the RWP and shooting it directly into the PVC pipe a connection? Just extra insurance?

I don't see the problem being as much heat under normal circumstances, the issue is that when the engine experiences an overheat due to lack of water or water problems, you'll overheat the PVC.   If you were using the RWP as extra insurance, the problem doesn't go away, you are still relying on the RWP either through the engine or around it.    I actually think the bigger problem with PVC is that when you heat cycle it, it becomes brittle.   We see condenser water heating systems in our area that have used PVC piping.   Standard water temp is 85°-95°F and we have seen many failures due to the brittleness of the piping.   Yes, the pipes are 20 years old, but I think vibration, more heat, and exhaust gasses would increase to the degradation rate.   I think the OP has a point that getting it all correct as a trial is a fine Idea, but I'm glad to see that a Centek is on order.    

gun-driver wrote: Just find a local place that does custom exhaust and have them tig up a Y fitting out of stainless.

Yeah I already thought of that Paul but I live in a pretty small town up here by Kerr Lake and the muffler shops we have here are deff not gonna tig.. they only have brazing and mig setups which is not detailed enough when looking for water and air tight setups.. And by the time I found and paid someone for there time and materials I could by a Fiberglass y probably

TRBenj wrote: Starting in '92, all small block PCM's got 3.5" risers, not 3".

Damn

Or just buy the 3.5x3.5x4 Y pipe instead of the 3x3x4?