rough idle/stall

8122pbrainard wrote: Justin, I'm glad to hear it's running! For the NSS, get the Ohm meter on it. Take at least one wire off the switch. In neutral you should get a near zero Ohm reading. Fill us in on what you find.

righto, Ill do it tonight and report back.

Justin,
I'm glad to hear it's running! For the NSS, get the Ohm meter on it. Take at least one wire off the switch. In neutral you should get a near zero Ohm reading. Fill us in on what you find.

Yes it is, he has several left on the shelf if interested

I applied just enough throttle to activated the jets so I could see fuel coming out. It should be dead even. At 1000 nothing was coming from port at 1200 it was just dripping, it really didn't even out until 1500. At that point the engine creates enough vacuum to overpower the leak.

Fresh gaskets and I was back in business. Running and idleing smooth now.

Hi Jllogan

How were you able to determine that no fuel was coming through the port side? I can't see that fuel because of the plates. Would I be able to tell if I screwed the air mixture screw in all the way?

Thanks

Mark

I've had a suggestion from this site to put a low pressure regulator in the fuel line after the pump, 1 to4 psi. I will try that and let you know over the weekend. Cheers Geoff

Hi, what was the end result? We have the same problem, A merican V8 bits are a bit dear over here, particularly with the word marine in front. All the blogs on this forum say the same, timing 10 degrees, yep, done that with a strobe, spot on mechanical advance is working, fitted replacement carb kit complete with needles and seats, swapped primary with secondary seats and needles, no different. This seems to be the most common complaint with Pleasurecraft marine units.
Perhaps someone out there who has had these problems and has solved them could give us the diffinitive answer and not just give suggestions that they've read on utube!!
MMM i wonder if we could use a Webber and forget the Holly as a water feature in the garden pond mmm think i'll stop now, the red wines going to my head and the boat's driving me nuts, we just want it on the water and i want it off my drive so i can get in my garage and do my own boat, nice simple ford 1600 powered 120 hp, 14' long and i don't need a 4x4 to pull it or a petrol tanker on the beach, that's why they call me Grumpy Geoff.

I wrote to Daytona through their contact page, asking if they have Holley Kits that include the special valve. They confirmed they do, and wrote back with this:

Brian! Yes, our alcohol resistant Marine kits also come with the Daytona Float Valve as standard. By the way, Holley has discontinued all of their Marine and Automotive aftermarket kits. These kits were NOT made by Holley, but packaged for them by Walker Products in LA, for the last 10 years. Because of problems with the quality of parts used by Walker, Holley chose to discontinue the whole line. We do make Marine Kits for most any application in Inboards from the mid 1930's up to present day. All we need is the Holley list number, to get the correct repair kit. Let us know if we can be of service. Thank You! RON DAYTONA PARTS COMPANY 1191 TURNBULL BAY ROAD NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL 32168 PH:386-427-7108 FX:386-423-8528 www.daytonaparts.com

Bri892001 wrote: ] I agree. Or keep it for odds and ends parts, or dissect it for science. Although, it seems like a lot of guys have been fighting crappy brand new needle and seats this season. Not sure if anyone has a good line on the best quality replacements.

When I rebuilt my two Carter YH side drafts, I got the kits from Daytona Parts. The kits came with a proprietary needle and seat that I understand is included in all their kits. Instead of the traditional needle in a hole, their design is a flat rubber against a annular ring. They claim it doesn't plug up. So far so good with my YH's. I wonder if they have a kit for the 4160?

There is a point where it just makes more sense to throw your old carb on ebay and replace it with new.

If it is a blocked passage in the metering block, can it be cleaned or flushed out somehow, or is replacement the smart thing to do?

Thanks for the help.

Mark

Wow, was this timely. I have a 1990 351W PCM with a Holley carb. Last fall it started doing the exact same thing, very rough idle, running flooded would only idle good at 1200 rpm anything below caused loping and flooding, I could not adjust it out. So this spring I attempted to reset the timing with a cheap eBay light and could not get it right. Choke is functioning properly, I replaced plugs, wires, coil, points, condenser, and I also adjusted the air metering screws per instructions. With a new timing light I was able to make the point setup work very good. But when I had the timing issues I ordered a Pertronix Ignitor conversion so I went ahead and installed it. At first it started harder than the points and slightly flooded, otherwise it ran well, but now after maybe 20 hours I can not keep the idle set. At first start unless the idle is set high it will lope and stall, after a while it will be running at 1200 rpm, I then set the idle back and it runs fine for a while, then all of a sudden it will start idling very slow and loping, again I set it up. I am getting ready to reinstall the points. The Pertronix starts harder than the points for sure and I don't like that but I am not sure that the points will solve this. I am starting to think something is stuck or plugged in the Carburetor?

I had the orig fuel pump slowly shred bits of red paper gasket into the carb fo.r two seasons before it failed
Caused lots of rebuilds inbetween.
If you see red sediment in the bowl, jets or needles, that's what it is

watrski wrote: is your PCV hose port connected to anything? My local guru had me block it off.

I'm pretty sure that diagram is an automotive carb.   If that is what you have, it would be best to get a marine one.

seafoam wont help. Are you sure your linkage is tight/adjusted properly? I also doubt its a fuel pump, if anything I would think it would idle ok but then fall on its face when it needed alot of fuel/wide open if the pump was weak.