PROP CAME OFF AND SANK |
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abolton ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: September-07-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: July-03-2008 at 11:01pm |
Ok, another question; I got the new prop on and the brass nylock nut, but nylock nut covers the cotter pin hole. The old prop must have been on with a castle nut. I like the nylock because you can snug it right up, do I need a cotter pin? Should I drill another hole behind the nylock nut for a cotter pin?
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ABE
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abolton ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: September-07-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
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[QUOTE=davidg] As far as I know, all inboards (or at least the older Correct Crafts) have a piece of stainless steel wire that goes through a hole in the top of the bolt holding the rudder on and also through a nearby clamp bolt. The wire keeps this critical nut from backing off. You should also find the same safety wire on the two bolts holding the shaft inside the transmission coupler. Keeps the bolts from backing out and allowing the shaft to back out.
I bet if that happened more than my prop would have sank to the bottom! I found a 13x13x1 thanks to all of you guy's... I am going to try to get it to me by this 4th of July weekend. Thanks for all your help and I'll hope this is all of my trouble. |
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ABE
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The Dude ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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M3, how often do you have to snug it up? |
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Mullet Free since 93
95 Sport |
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davidg ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: January-07-2008 Location: NW Chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 2239 |
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As far as I know, all inboards (or at least the older Correct Crafts) have a piece of stainless steel wire that goes through a hole in the top of the bolt holding the rudder on and also through a nearby clamp bolt. The wire keeps this critical nut from backing off. You should also find the same safety wire on the two bolts holding the shaft inside the transmission coupler. Keeps the bolts from backing out and allowing the shaft to back out.
Dave |
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Luchog ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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safetu wire??? |
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M3Fan ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: October-22-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3185 |
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I'm sporting the nylock nut as well- another major bonus of the nylock is that you can snug it up as much as you need to, rather than trying to match up the castle nut to the cotter pin hole. |
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2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel
2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
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stang72 ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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Brass nut...stainless cotter!
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Tim D ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2637 |
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Start listening for noise from the damper plate, throwing one in reverse is a good way to mess it up.
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Tim D
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Abe, When you get the new prop, make sure it's installed correctly on the shaft and fully seated on the taper. It's not a bad idea to check the taper to the new prop with machinest blue and then lap if needed. A prop should only come off with a puller. Also do NOT put a stainless nut on the stainless shaft. You want to go with a brass. With the stainless to stainless you take the chance of galling the threads and locking up the nut to the shaft. I had to cut one of mine off last year due to the PO using a stainless. If you need any help with the install procedure, we're here! Also, the other day I was looking for some reference back up for NOT putting any lubricant on the taper. Did a on line search and found some very nice detailed instructions on prop installs.
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stang72 ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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The 13x13x1 prop is the right prop for a 70's SN.
You can spend a tad over $300.00 plus ship for a new Acme 540 or an OJ...both are great performers! OR...save a few dollars and buy the one Paul has for $150.00. Of course you are needing a new nut...I still like the old castle nuts with a stainless cotter pin...never lost a prop....dinged hell out of a few ![]() |
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davidg ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: January-07-2008 Location: NW Chicagoland Status: Offline Points: 2239 |
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Sorry to hear of your problem. Never dropped a prop, but, I did drop a rudder off of an '87 Martinique because I forgot to put the safety wire on the bolt that holds the rudder on, and it vibrated out. Not a good day!!!
On your prop, my '76 Southwind has a 13"X13"X 1" diameter shaft. Not sure if your SN would take the same size or not. I could use a spare one myself. The guys at Discount Inboard Marine suggested going with a nylon-lined locking type nut vs. a castle nut. Supposedly much harder to back off in case the clip comes out of the shaft with the castle nut. Thats what I am running right now. No issues yet. You may want to give them a call on the prop they would recommend as well. I would be interested in hearing what they recommend, and the cost. Dave |
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stang72 ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: July-31-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1608 |
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Paul Waters has a Federal 13X13 in the parts for sale section....that one will do just fine for ya at a good price.....make sure you put the cotter pin behind the nut so ya won't loose another one!
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abolton ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: September-07-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 81 |
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Ok this sucks; My #2 son hit reverse going 25mph and the prop spun off the shaft?
I can only wonder what else? The tranny is working; so far, but the prop is gone. I have a 78SN with the 351W 1:1 tranny, we tube and wake board. Need suggestions on what prop to buy, where, or maybe one of you guy's have an one for cheap? |
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ABE
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