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'63 American Skier in Colorado

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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 1:02pm
When you pm Art,give him the serial number too. When he gets a chance maybe he can look it up for you.
69 Mustang HM SS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:43am
Thanks for all the info Art!!! I will PM you.
The bankruptcy theory makes perfect sense. I'm sure the wood is mahogany, I've been in construction way too long. I've installed some mahogany entrance doors, that's why I was surprised to see it. It's so expensive these days(I understand it all comes from South America now, which was the low end stuff back then), but they used it like crazy for everything back in the day.
That would also explain why I have a steering column instead of a teleflex. And the CC emblem instead of American Skier on the dash. And the hull not made for the 312……..but then I see from the reference section that the 312 was not on the option list for the AS line. Must have been a special order?
Thanks again, so much history I'd like to know on this great survivor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:29am
Steve Hilpshe makes repro Interceptor decals. I've bought several set of them. Very good quality. I can post a link to his site tonight or you can search for him at marineengines.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:24am
Oh! .....The dash emblem! It has pins cast onto the back side of it. No barbs or threads. It is simply pushed into the holes. If you are lucky, they would have drilled all the way through the dash, and you can take a small drift punch (or a small nail) and put it into the holes under the dash and CAREFULLY back them out. Just a bit at a time, alternating between pins. There are usually two.

You might be aware that I have a supply of replicated "Correct Craft" script emblems that were on the rear quarter on the hull. Details are under "Boat parts for Sale." Search "metal emblems."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 11:17am
Dang! I had this written and accidentally pushed "Backspace" and deleted it! Here we go again:

It is likely that the stringers are clear fir. However, in those days of operating in bankrptcy, if there was mahogany in the stockroom and we would have had to buy fir, the priority was to not spend $$. I have to say, your photo does look like maghogany. Have someone who knows woods have a look. All I know for sure is that you don't want to use pine.

The spots where the woven roving is missing look like perhaps the floor support originally extended to the main stringer and someone cut ot the portion over the exhaust well and didn't patch the glass back in. My guess is that the hull was built for some other engine and they had to cut the support out to accomodate the 312. It looks as though the plywood bulkheads in the front of the exhaust were put in later.

I have an owner's manual for a 1965 312. The decal on the intake manifold reads as follows:

Recommended owner procedure for
FIRST 25 HOUR INSPECTION CHECK (this line in large bold print)
Ignition timing -- use timing light   (Strange; no spec shown!)
Set valve clearance -- .020    (my '65 had an alternator)
Set spark plug gap -- .030
Set distributor points -- .018
Tighten generator belt   
Tighten engine mounts
Align engine
Change oil
Firing order: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2

When I first started on this site, someone had a photo posted of a really beautiful restoration of a 312. All the decals had been replicated and it looked 100% original, exact color paint and all.   

I have two and a half 312s which I hope to make into one restored one. Please let me know if you find a source for the replica decals.

If you want a copy of my owner's manual, I will be happy to copy it and mail it to you. I don't have a scanner good enough to do it and I don't know how to post attachments on this site. I could take it to Kinko's / FedEx and have it done on a professional scanner and email it to you. Let me know. PM me please.   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 10:09am
It looks like the factory had to cut two floor support purlins for exhaust routing with this engine.
(the fiberglass pulled away from the stringer was done by someone else looking at the boat before I acquired it)



Are all original stringers mahogany?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-20-2013 at 9:53am
I worked on cleaning the stringer / bilge area yesterday and stripped deck parts for fiberglass work.



Looking for opinions / knowledge on a couple of things.
Best way to pull the steering wheel? It's already cracked and I really don't want to break it

Is the dash emblem glued on or does it set with pin holes? Because there are no nuts on the back side.
Again, I don't want to break it.

Also, anybody know what this decal on the intake was / said originally?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 89Martinique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-14-2013 at 12:18am
you should try one of the silicone impeller from globe! our impeller from 1995 is still good!
Current Boats:

1992 Supra Comp-TS6M PCM 351w HO Pro Boss Pro-Tec Ignition - Full Composite (no wood stingers!)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:20pm
Art,Pete changes impellers when he changes points,whether he needs one or not
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

If it's totally obsolete, they can suggest a retrofit.

The impeller is not obsolete. It's a very common size. The pump on the 312 is a dual cavity. I just changed mine out several years ago.


Pete, I was thinking more in terms of the major rebuild kit or the entire pump than of the impellers. If it's one of the pumps pumps with two identical impellers, they are the same ones used in the G21 pump, found on the PCM Fords. The part # is PCM RP061015 or Sherwood 9959.

"SEVERAL years ago??????" You believe in living on the edge, don't you? I recommend that folks change impellers once a year -- it's the cheapest insurance you can buy! :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 7:36pm
I've used the baggie method for many years now, works very well. I always feel like engineers that build oil filter mounts anything but facing down must have never changed their own oil!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 7:08pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

KC,
I've never been a fan of additives but you can try it if you want too. I'd just change out the oil again since you aren't talking much $$. Typically a additive costs as much as a couple quarts of oil.

BTW, the only additive I keep around is Marvel Mystery but that's for other reasons than anti wear.

+1, use the proper oil.
Those Y blocks are so sweet! Maybe it's just me but they seem to have a distinctive sound. I love hearing them in the old T-Birds too.
Beautiful Y Block sound
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If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 5:17pm
Originally posted by ArtCozier ArtCozier wrote:

If it's totally obsolete, they can suggest a retrofit.

The impeller is not obsolete. It's a very common size. The pump on the 312 is a dual cavity. I just changed mine out several years ago.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote ArtCozier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 3:35pm
If you are looking for a source for Sherwood Pump stuff, Depco Pump in Clearwater, FL has everything imaginable for Sherwood pumps. They are a Sherwood distributor. If it's totally obsolete, they can suggest a retrofit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 11:37am
Good point. Thanks Peter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 11:24am
KC,
I've never been a fan of additives but you can try it if you want too. I'd just change out the oil again since you aren't talking much $$. Typically a additive costs as much as a couple quarts of oil.

BTW, the only additive I keep around is Marvel Mystery but that's for other reasons than anti wear.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:57am
Dang! I hate being a newbie! Peter, what do you think of this as an option?


Thanks for the link Steve!

PS Fellow CCF (ers) with older Skiers, please post more pics. The diary pics are too small. Need more closeups     Thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:34am
A baggie!! Now I am actually excited for this oil change!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:26am
KC,
It's great that you changed the oil but you used the wrong stuff!! You want to use a oil with ZDDP. Valvolene VR1 is my choice on all my old flat tappet engines including my 312 Y block. I highly suggest you do another change before the cam is ruined. RR cams for the 312's are VERY hard to find.

BTW, I just put a baggie over the filter when removing it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 10:23am
I have never seen a remote oil filter mount like that on a marine 312, interesting...

Another resource for the Interceptor engines
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Smithfamily Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 9:54am
That's a good idea with the foil on a filter change!! I always use a couple of rags and Never catch all the spillage! I am due for a change and will try, thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2013 at 2:28am
I gave the old girl a needed transfusion today and re-winterized as well

I'm not sure if this is an original idea or not, but it's something I came up with for changing the oil filter on my Harley (which lays horizontal as well) without making a huge mess. I use three layers of foil and create a pan / funnel. Easy and no mess!





I also think I have found the correct info for the water pump on the Interceptor 312. I believe it is a Sherwood M-10270-G

I'll be sure when I get it pulled apart. Looks like the major repair kit is available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2013 at 11:50am
I removed the front section of floor the other day. I found an old compass and a plastic bag (treasure?) embedded in 50 years of muck.


Now I have a spare key!

I've been researching all I can about the Interceptor. CCF has the vast majority of info it appears. I can't believe there isn't more resources on the web! Parts are a big problem! For instance, a water pump rebuild kit. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right place?
I also started cutting away the delaminated fiberglass on the outer stringers since it's a perfect pocket for holding water.

So far the wood looks great. But again I'm not finding much in the proper way to prep and repair. Whats the best way to clean the old fiberglass?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DrStevens Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2013 at 7:57am
Like the red and white combination, going to be nice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2013 at 1:18pm
Try disconnecting the cable from the transmission. We have 2 Dearbo C's and there is no detent like a Velvet Drive, but you can clearly feel it shifting in and out of neutral.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2013 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by turningpoint84 turningpoint84 wrote:

If i were a guessing man i'd say fake air intake scoops were mounted on the stern.

Does the boat have a blower? How did this thing get fresh air?


Foot print is too small for fake air intake scoops, I am guessing it was more likely a ladder. The foot print more closely matches a ladder. It likely would have been "borrowed" from a newer model.

No blowers in those early 60's boat. Operating procedure was to "air out" the bilge by opening the dog house. Plenty of air circulates up under the front deck, down under the floor and up to the carbs in the dog house to run the engine.

Dad installed front and rear after market scoops early to improve ventilation, but NO electric blowers...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote turningpoint84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2013 at 12:53pm
If i were a guessing man i'd say fake air intake scoops were mounted on the stern.

Does the boat have a blower? How did this thing get fresh air?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cbdenco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-08-2013 at 1:43am
Wow, thanks for the wealth of knowledge in the reply's. I'll try that process with this windshield for sure.
Great lead on the temp gauge. Yes it is a Dearbo Model C

It seems like there should be a detent at neutral on the shifter. But it does not have one.
I have read the adjustment procedure in the Interceptor Manual, I wonder if that would help "define" the neutral?
Interesting about the fuel as well. I'm wondering what all was done with the long block work. It was winterized properly near as I can tell.
It's great getting all the input and history from you all. Thank you.
Here's the stamp on the trailer as well



Any ideas what would have been mounted on the stern here


More pics
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:32pm
Originally posted by MartyMabe MartyMabe wrote:

Also same steering wheel with the infamous 'Ship's Wheel' center cap


I am going to end up buying a damn boat to get one of those center caps...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-07-2013 at 11:31pm
100 LL (low lead) av-gas is actually light blue. 100 Av gas is green. 100 LL has a lead content of up to .56 grams/litre. 100 has lead content of 1.12 grams/litre.

That 312 was designed to run on leaded gas, so maybe that is why the previous owner was running it. It's a good idea, but at $5-$6.00 per gallon, VERY expensive...
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