Water in my Engine!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8748
Printed Date: May-04-2024 at 6:07pm
Topic: Water in my Engine!
Posted By: leo0648
Subject: Water in my Engine!
Date Posted: October-19-2007 at 1:47pm
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I have a 1983 2001 Nautique with 1500 hours and the other day we found water in the oil. We checked the oil the day before, and no water. So it happened within the last trip. Also, we just changed the oil 2 weeks ago. There is a lot of water in the oil pan too.
My guess is a cracked head. What do you guys think? I plan on rebuilding the engine soon, but I want to fix it to last me till December. |
Replies:
Posted By: gene41097
Date Posted: October-19-2007 at 4:39pm
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For what little i know, sounds like cracked head or head gasket. ------------- Gene41097 There's more to life than watching other people live it! |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-19-2007 at 5:33pm
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Cracked head or blown head gasket could certainly be the culprit but if it hasn't overheated recently I would suspect the riser gaskets. If you can see water/rust stains running down the outside of your exhaust manifolds then it's leaking on the inside too. Most water problems seem to come from exhaust manifold issues.
------------- |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-19-2007 at 5:49pm
| I painted the manifolds this summer with new gaskets. I torqued them down to spec. I don't think that would be the case. |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: October-19-2007 at 6:27pm
Could be cracked or rusted from the inside. If not then do a compression test to see if the head gaskets are blown. ------------- |
leo0648 wrote:Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: October-20-2007 at 12:16am
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Pull your spark plugs and see if you have any water in any of the cylinders. If not, it's not the exhaust manifolds. It could be an intake manifold though. Is yours aluminum? They corrode easier. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-20-2007 at 4:10am
please keep your dumb ass malibu comments to your self, your not helping out the guy at all. Aluminum Intake corrosion please. But then again I expect dumb sh*t from a jack ass like you. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-21-2007 at 1:47pm
If there was rust there and you did not make absolutly positive they were square and flat,you are the culprit.Sometimes you can see the rust lines, mostly not. A motor of this age will have an uneven srface and be almost impossible to seal, a remove and replace is in order. A good machine shop will surface the riser and the mating surface to like new for a few bucks. Malibu dont think its the intake, read the above post as to the "I removed the manifolds to paint them" as a prelude to the water/oil issue............. ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-22-2007 at 1:37am
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The exhaust manifolds are pretty new. They said october of 96 on them. The engine has never been used in salt water. They were really clean when I put them on. Plus, we ran the eninge for about a hundred hours after the manifolds went back on. The intake manifold is cast iron, it is the stock pcm engine from 1983. I never took the intake manifold off, just the exhaust. Although it sounds like some think I took the intake off.
I pulled all the spark plugs and I didn't see any water. Also, I took the engine to a auto mechanic. He said all the plugs looked clean. He thought one was a little off, but he couldnt really tell. There were no signs of water though. I drained all the fluids this weekend. Unfortunately I dont have time to touch the engine until Tuesday. I will run a compression test and have my friend look at it. |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: October-22-2007 at 2:08pm
Chris, WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM? Can't you deliver a post without cutting someone down or name calling? I'm going to explain how an intake can cause this problem. Pay attention and read very carefully. You might just learn something! There is a water passage that connects the two heads together that goes through the front of the intake. I have seen these corrode through near the flange that bolts to the head. This can happen on the underside of the manifold as well. Now, what is below the intake. That would be the valley of the block where there are drain holes for oil to get back to the pan. Now, I wasn't trying to tell this guy that the intake was his problem. I just mentioned it as a possibility. That's it! If you had something to suggest that could be this man's problem, why didn't you offer it here? Oh, let me guess, you couldn't spell it. Too many of your posts read just like this one. You hammer people for their comments but you have little to offer in return that someone can actually use. 4023 posts of you calling members names and belittling them and using vulgar language has landed you the "Grand Poopah" status. You must be proud. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-22-2007 at 7:51pm
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Nutty, why did you say the Alum. intakes corrode easier? ------------- http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s95/buckethead1236/Barefooter6-10-09002.jpg" rel="nofollow - MY 87BFN |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-22-2007 at 10:23pm
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leo0648
I've got water in the oil AGAIN myself. R&Red the busted exhaust manifolds @ 239 hrs, ran on a fake-a-lake for a hour-clean, ran 5hrs.retorqued the exh.manifolds, changed oil-clean. Changed it @ 250-clean , changed it @ 275 perfect. At 279 I put a timing light on it, heard a knock pulled the dip stick the oil pan was FULL of an oil/water emulsion. So-WTF.The last time I ran the boat the water was glass 25-40 mph for an hour or more and it ran very,very well. Drained it,pulled the plugs put in 4qts.of dextron III & did a compression test-all 8 145-150 psi.I pulled the intake and found the oil emulsion under the intake at the water crossover at the front and back of the block.I inspected the intake gaskets but they were damaged removing the intake.I changed the intake gaskets, 5 qts 40 wt rotella and filter. CRAP !!! ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 1:54am
| So what should I check first? Exhaust manifold or intake manifold? |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 10:10am
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Ive seen the intake manifold crack right under the thermostat housing and will indeed fill the block ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 10:24am
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leo0648
The PCM manual says the most common way to get water in the oil is a cracked exhaust manifold. Lets make a list of possibilities. 1) Cracked exhaust manifold 2) Cracked exhaust riser 3) Exhaust riser gasket 4) Cracked intake manifold 5) Intake manifold gasket 6) Cracked timing chain cover 7) Timing chain cover gasket 8) Cracked head 9) Blown head gasket 10) Cracked block 11) Agree / Disagree ? 12) What else ? ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 11:36am
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Thats about right but I might change the order of the list depending on the recent history of the engine/ storage/overheats/etc ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 1:00pm
It's a well known fact that aluminum corrodes at a faster rate than cast iron. Many manufacturers (other than boats) warn that their cooling systems contain aluminum parts and warn that you should use anti-freeze with corrosion inhibitors. If you look on any chart that rates metals according to their anodic (least noble) rating you will find aluminum (unless it contains silicon) is less noble than cast iron. Now, don't get me wrong.....I'm not knocking using aluminum intakes. I have one myself that I will be putting on my Malibu. The fact just remains that when you mix aluminum parts with cast iron (or any other metal that is more noble) you must understand that you are inviting corrosion and it's something you must keep an eye on. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 1:04pm
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JoeinNY
Funny thing about pulling the intake the 2 "pockets" in the head between the intake runners where oil collects (351w) ( an oz or 2 ) that oil looked fresh from the can ? Are you still looking for a ski pylon ? ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 2:10pm
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Could be you only fill those two "pockets" with oil when you make an occasional abrupt or hard banking turn. I wouldnt read too much into thier state. Your compression now is still good? How much of a knock did you hear? Were those exhaust manifolds repaired or replaced with new? I hate these sudden water in the oil scenarios, reidp had one a while back and never updated us on what he found the problem to be maybe he has some input.
I have an intact ring and finger ski pylon now, plan to install it and a tower over the winter. Along with a bunch of other stuff, starting to think it might be time to pull the foam and stringers as well, I injected cpes in the stringers when I got it but the soft spot next to the battery box is getting dangerously close to my drivers seat mount. Frankly I would rather look for a water leak in the engine... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 2:36pm
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JoeinNY
Reidp was in my drive way when I installed the new exhaust manifolds & risers. I did the compression test as I flushed the engine. The engine Knocked very little at idle , moved the throttle up to 1500 or so (at the dock) the knock went away , back down to idle it came back & I shut it off .- Found the oil pan full of water. Still need to restart it. I think "the list of possibilities " would be good in the frequetly asked questions. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 2:43pm
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Well on the positive side that knock could be low rpm damper noise from a misfiring cylinder from the water. Bearing/rod knocks usually dont go away with a little throttle. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 8:07pm
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Should I consider doing a complete rebuild? There are 1500 hours on the engine, and it seems like it is time. I dont want to spend more money searching for the problem.
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Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-23-2007 at 8:27pm
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leo0648, first i would pressure test the manifolds and do compression test on the engine. They are pretty simple tests that should give you an idea of how to proceed. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 1:32am
I only hammer jack ass' like you, Start a Malibu site and offer your worthless banter there. Yes Aluminum corrodes it also will oxidize instanly too, but you have to have special equipement to detect that too. Now that your scratching your head, what is rust? oxidized iron maybe? what's the time frame for that to start. You offer nothing of value but tail chasing circles and wild goose escapaids and where do those go no where. Now if that aluminum intake as been on the boat for thirty years then it might corrode through but I really doubt it's been on the boat that long and pigs have a better chance of flying than your theroy's or help. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 1:37am
Yes odds are it's the block and it wasn't winterized correctly. Remove the Exhaust manifolds and risers and pressure test them. Now if you don't know the easy way to check them let me know it's not hard and you don't need to buy anything. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 1:58am
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How do I test them? Unfortunately I dont have access to many tools because I am at college. My friend has a lot of tools about an hour away, I guess that is my best solution. Do I need an air compressor?
Also, why would it be the block? The boat is stored down south and garaged. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 3:56am
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take them off, support the manifold/riser vertically have the hose that feeds the manifold higher than the top of the riser now slowly start pour water until it is full and leaks out where it should, now wait and check back every so often and look for water in the exhaust opening's where water shouldn't be. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 9:00am
How far down south? My first boat came from below atl and had the exact crack that Eric mentioned above(thermo housing). It had a telltale oil leak at the front of the intake. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 10:09am
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it is real thin in that area and the engine i did was winterized, somehow a little water sat right below the thermostat and must have froze and put about a 1/2 very small crack in the underneath of the intake, it happens, luckily the block had no damage, you are getting up in the hours and a head gasket would be a good suspect for the leak, also the exhaust manifolds as mentioned ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 6:34pm
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The exhaust manifolds seem fairly new (0896 are the digits on them).
The boat has been in South Texas or South Louisiana for the past year and a half. |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 6:48pm
There you go again with your name calling. I would expect that from a child, but most of us are adults here. So how about offering your advice in a more constructive manner. They offer medication for symptoms such as yours. It's called Prozac. Try it and maybe you won't be so bitter all the time. There is a reason that aluminum corrodes at a faster rate than cast iron. When you mix dissimilar metals (iron and aluminum) in a corrosive environment the less noble metal (aluminum) will render itself as an anode. Also, I didn't tell the man that this was his problem, I am merely stated it was a possibility. Especially since his engine does have 1500 hours. He didn't clarify that his intake was iron until after I posted this so chill out. Besides, it sounds as though there are some rather senior members on here who do agree with me. If pointing this simple fact out makes me a jacka$$, well I guess I'm not the only one on this site. I too am installing an aluminum intake on my boat. But I will keep an eye on mine. What you do is your business. Furthermore, oxidation and corrosion of aluminum are the same thing. And the only detection device it takes is the human eye. It reveals itself as a grayish white colored powder. Now don't you feel smarter? You can now go and post this information on another thread and earn yourself some more "Poopah Points". ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: October-24-2007 at 6:58pm
Pressure testing the manifold properly involves removing the risers and installing block-off plates and then plugging the rear hole (if not already plugged). Then attach your hose and charge it. If water leaks anywhere, there is a problem. A block-off can be made of a simple piece of flat aluminum or steel. I've even seen wood be used. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-25-2007 at 1:26am
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There is a easier simple method. Block off the inlet hoses to both manifolds.
Remove both exhausts, change oil and filter, install the fake a lake, start motor. This is loud and if you don't rev it the fire will stay close to the head. Run her for a few minutes, check the oil.Still no water, repeat the above.This will tell you where the leak is. Manifolds or the risers, My guess is a leak at the riser connection on the starboard side....... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-25-2007 at 9:01pm
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Boat Dr
The exhaust valve operates around 1200*F (dull red glow)I've had a couple drag race exhaust valves snap the heads off from tempering due to cool air rushing into the open cylinder at shut down. Yes /no? ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-25-2007 at 9:09pm
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I do not think this is an issue here , less damage than water in the oil.
I would not bring it to 7000 and hold it there ,if you think valves are a problem...... Shove shop towels into the ports on shut down.I would be more concerned of the oil contamination than the valves,JMHO.......... ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-25-2007 at 9:53pm
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: October-26-2007 at 1:39pm
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Some say it is a gasket, others say it is a exhaust manifold/riser problem.
Dont know where to start! I guess start with Boat Dr's suggestion, then start breaking the engine down. Wow, this isn't fun. At least the weather is getting colder. |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: October-26-2007 at 11:31pm
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leo0648
There's 10 ways for water to get in the oil.The 1st thing to do is remove the exhaust manifolds & risers and pressure check them. It's not hard to do,put a garden hose fitting in the front, block off the riser passage and turn the water on if water flows out the exhaust it has an internal crack. By doing this you checked 3 of 10. Then make a plan from there.Exhaust manifolds are the most common leak and the easiest to eliminate. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-28-2007 at 8:52pm
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lets think about this logically, water going into a cylinder will usually steam clean the plug, pulling the plugs is quick and easy, look for a very clean plug to isolate if it is leaking in that area.
Do you think the water is entering while the engine is running or when it is not running? if it is exhaust manifolds they will leak into the engine when not running and burn off when you start engine and usually you will be able to tell by studying the spark plugs. With the engine running water can enter obviously thru other parts of the engine such as intake, head gaskets, cracks and so on. it wont enter thru the exhaust manifolds while running, thats why it is important to try to determine when the water is getting in there if you can. If you find an unusually clean plug out of 8 you can start to pin-point where the problem may be. Alot of water indicates a leak in the pressue side of the cooling system such as a crack in the intake or a crack in the block or in the head gasket area. A small portion of water may indicate exhaust manifolds maybe dripping in while not running. First determine when the water is entering and use the process of elimination, were all shooting from the hips trying to figure out the problem. the engine has to be dis-assembled to some point as it is, observing closely on dis-assembly and knowing what to look for will isolate the water problem ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: November-16-2007 at 11:21pm
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Ok, I finally got to my engine today.
As suggested, I ran the exhaust manifolds off the engine (but I kept the hoses hooked up to see if water was leaking back into the exhaust ports). No water leaking from the exhaust manifolds. Also, I did a compression test. About 90-120 psi per cylinder. I took off the intake manifold and found no cracks anywhere. As Eric suggested, I also checked the thin area around the thermostat. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: November-16-2007 at 11:30pm
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so cracked block then right? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: November-17-2007 at 2:40pm
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If the block was cracked, would I be getting good compression in each cylinder?
My friend was watching the exhaust ports with the exhaust manifolds off while we ran the engine. He said each port was firing good. The intake manifold gaskets were really hard and brittle. There was a piece by the water jacket that was messed up, but I don't know if it was from when we took off the intake. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: November-19-2007 at 1:09pm
yes, the block being cracked will have no effect on compression. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: November-19-2007 at 2:09pm
| Is there anyplace to look for a crack? |
Posted By: bchesley
Date Posted: November-19-2007 at 3:08pm
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If it is cracked let me know. I have a friend with a spare RH PCM motor from a 80's 2001. I also have a spare set of GT40 heads that we can make a deal on. I am in East Texas too.
Brad ------------- 2001 SAN "Python Powered" |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: November-19-2007 at 9:19pm
I don't see how air is going to cool a valve faster than a valve that is seated onto water-cooled metal. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: November-20-2007 at 10:18pm
Can you take some digital pix of the intake and gasket and post them here? Also look very closely at the valley area of the block in the area where the suspect intake gasket. Look for evidence of a water trail. Another question....how long did you run the engine with the manifolds off? Did you have fresh oil then? Is it now contaminated too? ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: November-20-2007 at 10:55pm
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Nutty- I am back in Louisiana for Thanksgiving. Ill try to get some pics up next week. I didn't see a water trail, but there was a lot of sludge in the rear of the engine valley. I ran the engine for about 20-30 seconds with the manifolds off. We changed the oil, but I didn't drain it to see if the new oil was contaminated. I checked the dip stick, but it didn't show any water.
Brad- Im interested in the engine. Where is it located, and how much? |
Posted By: bchesley
Date Posted: November-21-2007 at 2:30am
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I am not sure. Its at my dealer. The guy who owns half the shop has it rat holed. Call Shannon at Ski N Sports. 903-509-1ski ------------- 2001 SAN "Python Powered" |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: November-21-2007 at 1:24pm
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Leo, what part of Louisiana ????
My boat is still water ready,I am in central close to Natchez Miss.If close and have the time give us a call......1-318-386-2825..Billy Always glad and happy to meet a CCFan close up and in person..........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: November-21-2007 at 7:56pm
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Boat Dr,
Slidell LA. We just took out my Dad's boat to find that the raw water pump was spitting water all over the engine. The reason we figured this out is because the alternator stopped charging and our voltage dropped. We just bought a brand new Mando Alternator this summer. Maybe I should switch hobbies, this boating thing isnt working out. |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: November-21-2007 at 8:13pm
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Leo, you in the da boat so don't bail now.Sounds as if he owns a stern drive , hope its black and not brand X. The water should not have hurt the alt. but the slipping belt has possibly glazed and neds to be replaced.
Hope ya fix the problem and get in a little time on the water for the holiday weekend ..........boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: leo0648
Date Posted: November-21-2007 at 8:26pm
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Its a malibu, never again will I buy a boat with an indmar engine. We hate indmar from the bottom of our hearts. Just kidding, but I would much rather him sell the malibu and get a super sport!
|
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-08-2008 at 1:37am
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Guys, I just bought a 1976 Southwind with a 351 with what I assume is an early PCM Ford engine as it says GT 255. Long story short...got it home...warm day yesterday...put the hose on it to run it for awhile...was running good, then shut down....didn't want to restart....acted like engine was seized....I finally worked it free with a large torque wrenc, and got it restarted.
Bottom line...the oil pan is full of oil with water and must be up 8" on the dipstick. A very nice vanilla shake looking frothy mucky mixture. I started reading this forum, and one of the key places to look is the exhaust manifold. I pulled the port manifold off. Ran water into the inlet hose. Held it flat or at slight angle as if in boat. Water DOES come out of one of the exhaust ports as well as out the riser portion as it should. Question: Is water supposed to come out of the exhaust port?? I wouldn't think so. Question 2: Could I have scored any bearings running it for a short time with water in the oil. Question 3: What is the best start up procedure to assure I do no more damage? Any recommendations on new exhaust manifolds? Should I go with the new style pyramidal PCM's? Sorry for so many questions, but, I am really trying to preserve this old girl and don't want to sink a new motor into it. Thanks! Dave |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: January-08-2008 at 1:45am
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Dave you are on the right track. Water out the top only, not out those 4 holes on the side.
Diesel and 30 weight at a 50/50 mix, with the plugs out , spin it and drain. Will take a few cycles but will clear it out and not damage any parts.... I have a set of manifolds and risers,take off when I bought the Hi-Teks.They need a new home.........Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: January-08-2008 at 2:04am
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Thanks Boat dr. I appreciate the advice. Where are you located? I am interested in those manifolds/risers.
I live in the Chicago area. Dave |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: January-08-2008 at 2:25am
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Dave do a Google on 71354......
Monterey La.You cannot get there from here,but if you go there you can. Welcome aboard this boat of misfits and boat nuts.Lot of good people here willing to share their knowledge and friendship.... Send me an E-Mail adress and will shoot ya some pics,they are Osco brand, direct replacements for the PCM.Only have a few hours on them , removed for dietary reasons. The S/S Hi Teks tip the scales at 12 lbs the OEM cast iron about 44 lbs . boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-08-2008 at 7:44am
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David, It does sound like your have a bad manifold but to be sure I would remove the riser and make a block off plate to cover the water ports to the riser. This way, you can put water under some pressure into the manifold and see if water is coming through to the exhaust side and not just back from the riser. Do take the Doc's advice and understand it may take a couple of flushes to get the water out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |