"Temporary" Garages
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Off Topic
Forum Discription: Anything non-Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5109
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 4:48pm
Topic: "Temporary" Garages
Posted By: Paul
Subject: "Temporary" Garages
Date Posted: November-01-2006 at 9:11am
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I'm currently home shopping and recently came to the devastating conclusion that we will not be able to purchase a place with a sizable enough garage for the 2001. She's an '87 I bought this spring and has spent all her other winters in a heated barn. Needless to say, this was not an easy realization for me. The 2001 one and my new wife have become a solid 1-2 in my life (the order of which has yet to be determined), and the thought of her being outside, all alone, all winter, is a tough one (the boat that is, not the wife).
As a workaround, I'm giving serious consideration to one of those hideous looking "temporary" tents. I've found them at a couple different places, I think something suited to my size is going to run about $600, from what I've found thus far. Couple questions: Anyone use one? Any recommendations as far as type, size, brand, installation, place to buy one, and/or anything else I'm forgetting? Overton's has a pretty decent selection, the one pictured below is the style of the $600 12' x 24' x 8' Paul 
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Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: November-01-2006 at 9:37am
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Where are you located? I dont know much about temporary enclosures, but I would doubt such a tent would be suitable if you get any snow. Have you considered paying to have it stored somewhere? Another option is to have it shrink wrapped and then store it in your yard. ------------- |
Posted By: 82tique
Date Posted: November-01-2006 at 11:05am
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I actually just purchased one of these for my 2001 last month.
I think it is 10x10x20 and cost 185.00 at CostCo.....it went through some wicked winds last week (gusts up to 40mph)without any problem......only problem is it was little short in lenght so the tongue of my trailer hangs out. I paid $60 a month for storage, so it should pay for itself by the new year TR is probably right about heavy snows.....good thing I live in the south  ------------- Life is Good. |
Posted By: todicus
Date Posted: November-01-2006 at 5:55pm
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http://www.elitedeals.com/kica11heduga1.html - King Canopy
This one is snow load rated, so they do exist. ------------- Living outside the wake http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1525 - 95GT-40SNOB |
Posted By: Paul
Date Posted: November-01-2006 at 9:02pm
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I live in the burbs of Manhattan. Not exactly Maine, but we get some decent snow. I've seen some hold up relatively well. One of the guys I used to work for had one at his house complete with concrete slab, floor drains, landscaping, and a loft inside for storage. He had a larger one for plows, salters, etc. Again, these were all able to be be put up because they're "temporary." Money was no object for him, but for me, it very much is. The King Canopy looks great, but $1000 is kinda steep for me.
I also though it would be good not only for winter, but for those summer days when the carpet is soaked and you don't want to throw the cover on until everything is nice and dry. By the time its dry, the 2001 is usually full of leaves and needs to be vacuumed. It's kind of an annoying cycle. Costco is a brilliant idea - I buy just about everything else there. I checked quickly on their website and didn't find anything, I'll have to dig a little more later. I checked Amazon too, have gotten some amazing deals there, but nothing jumped out. I'll keep digging... |
Posted By: 79 Mustang
Date Posted: November-02-2006 at 9:15am
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We live in the midewest. A popular storage option in this area has become the enclosed carports.
You can buy a car port package that includes sides and ends as well as service door and overhead door. These builds offer greater protection than a canvas building and with some insulation could be heated. These buildings also offer the ability to remain portable and could move with you if necessary and when mounted to concrete slabs are almost as nice as a regular garage for a fraction of the cost. I looked at one on display in our area and the standard carport sold for around 600.00 and then approaced the $2000.00 range with sides, service door and overhead door. The one I looked at had a gable roof look as well making the building not too unattractive. Here are links to a few such places...but shop around.....prices and packages vary greatly here in our city as well as on the internet. In my view you are getting a lot more building here for not a lot more money. Good luck http://cla$$icmanor.com/carport2.htm http://cla$$icmanor.com/carport3.htm http://www.carports.com/garages.html http://www.carports.com/online-brochure-versatube.html http://www.portacover.com/photogallery.htm http://www.gaport.com/garages.htm http://www.superiorportablebuildings.com/Garages.htm |
Posted By: 79 Mustang
Date Posted: November-02-2006 at 9:20am
| Here is another such building http://www.elitedeals.com/vistoustsh121.html - http://www.elitedeals.com/vistoustsh121.html |
Posted By: 82tique
Date Posted: November-02-2006 at 4:34pm
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sorry Paul.....couldn't find it online at Costco either...saw it my local store here in TN and bought it on the spot. Seems like costco's product offerings are allways changing,....guess I got lucky?
If you'd like some pics to help with your search, let me know. ------------- Life is Good. |
Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: November-02-2006 at 5:38pm
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79 I see you work at Borg Warner. Do you know a guy by the name of Karlson that works in Dixon Il. He also does testing on new products for quality control at Borg in Dixon.
Pat ------------- Pat http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier Rock River Dixon,ILL. |
Posted By: Paul
Date Posted: November-02-2006 at 10:42pm
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These enclosed carports are sweet! Unfortunatly, I have to due this on a shoe-string budget because all extra cash is going towards a down payment.
One thing I've learned about Costco: There is no such thing as, "Hmm... that's kinda cool, I'll think about it and buy it next time." It's already gone. If you see something and like it, buy one - better yet, buy two and return the second one if none of your buddies need or wants it. They'll take anything back (a buddy that used to work there told stories of people drinking a 1 3/4 gallons of milk and returning the rest because it was bad). I guess that goes along with the people in this area mentioned in the tranny thread (I apologize on their behalf - we're not all bad). This is the most reasonable I've found so far, but I'm still diggin': http://www.portablegaragedepot.com/index.cfm?sku=72434&catid=999999 - http://www.portablegaragedepot.com/index.cfm?sku=72434&catid=999999 |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: November-03-2006 at 8:10am
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Paul, Have you considered taking off the swim platform to get it in the garage? I have a removable one on mine but again my garage is long enough to get her in without taking it off. Could you use a "you store it" facility until you move? ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Paul
Date Posted: November-03-2006 at 8:53am
Yep. We're condo shopping because real estate is kinda pricey around here still, and that's all we can afford (even townhouses, which typically have at least one garage, are well out of our price range). I was adement about looking at places with garages (which, with condos, are far fewer and father between). We found a couple, but the garages are smaller, condo-sized garages (20 feet long). Even if I take the platform off, I still have to get the rest of the trailer (where the tongue is) in. I've read about ones that swing away, but I don't know if they can be retrofitted and if so, where I'd get that done. I have the original Correct Craft trailer. Width of the garage would be tight - but do-able. The last thing was that I haven't found a condo complex yet that lets you keep boats in the lots, so it was HAVE to be garaged. That would mean taking off the swim platform every time or leaving it off all together (and at this point, I don't think I could live without the platform). I was interetested to hear you say you have a "removable" platform, some type of quick-release setup? Both the real estate agent and the wife have been more than understanding about the whole thing. That made it even tougher when I kind of came to the realization on my own that I probably wouldn't be able to take the 2001 to our new home (unless I want to move further upstate and commute 1 hour+ everyday). That's why I figured I'd put up one of the carport/garages and my father's house. It'll suck to not have the boat with me, but at least it will be dry, a little bit warmer, and reasonably protected. ...Unless, from what you're saying, I could have an easily-removable platform and a swing away trailer. Hmm... got any more info on these (a glimmer of hope is reignited!)? Thanks again, Paul ------------- 1987 SN2001 
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Morfoot wrote:Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: November-03-2006 at 10:03am
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HMmmmmmmmm, sounds like your in a pickle. One more reason "Why I love the south!" Yes the platform R & R in about 5 mins. two thumb screws and it slides up and off. I have seen somewhere ( may even be here ) that someone retrofitted their trailer to a swing away. Looked pretty good from what I remember and I think the guy was a welder and did it himself. You may have to dig a lil' but I know it has been done. I'll get the name of the company that sells the kit for the platform. May be available at skidim or somewhere's else. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: 79 Mustang
Date Posted: November-06-2006 at 9:10am
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Pat,
BorgWarner Dixon is a different division of our company....sorry to say I don't know that person. Scott |
Posted By: Mojoman
Date Posted: November-06-2006 at 12:57pm
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Alloy Marine Products for the removable brackets.. $100 bucks each bracket.. Pricey, but what isn't????
Moj 
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Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-04-2007 at 11:14pm
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I can't afford a $600 shelter right now. Does anyone have any tips for building an appropriate 2x4 frame shelter with a tarp type of solution? I live in upstate NY where it can snow heavily at times. The '82 Ski Tique I just brought home from Alabama deserves the best I can give her. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Matt ------------- Matt |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December-04-2007 at 11:29pm
JUUNNKK...i bought one for my nautique last year...long story short..it ended up in my neighbors back yard a street over crumpled..garbage after that but manged to fight and argue a refund...they do not hold snow loads..it tells you that clearly on most of them...i was out there every day night brushing snow off until it sailed away..had it fastened properly also..
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December-04-2007 at 11:30pm
do what i do..get 2 construction h.d. tarps and wrap the thing up until spring..as long as its winterized your fine...
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Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 1:16am
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Here's a swing away tongue but from what I've seen on older CC trailers I don't think you'll gain much as most come to a vee too close to the tongue. http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200312036.htm - swing away tongue ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 10:00am
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I ran out of room (too many CC's!) and bought one out of Northern tool about 12 years ago. It's in nothern Wisconsin and has seen plenty of snow. They are made for it. The picture with the snow in the link actually looks like mine! Even though I went with the cheaper grade of vinyl I have never had a problem. The forest green color blends in very well and the install was easy. Here's a site I found on line:
http://instantgaragesales.zoovy.com/product/SKO12208H/12x20x8_one_Car_House_Style.html - instant garage It looks like Nothern Tool has changed brands plus when I ordered it, they just passed me on to the manufacturer and collected their commision. I do remember it ended up costing about $600 at the time because shipping wasn't cheap. They do have some weight to them! The only repair I had to do was when a tree limb punched a small hole in it. I'm not a duct tape type but it worked! I've been through the route of trying to tarp a boat for outside snow country storage. The only way it works is if you build quite a elaborate pitched 1x4 framework for support. With tarping you also end up with potential moisture problems (just like heat shrink) unless vents are put in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 10:18am
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Paul,
I've been thru two of those shelters. You're right, they're great for about 10 months of the year. Keeps the boat dry, shaded and clean. But during those other two months of snow/ice/wind we get each year, there always seems to be that one storm that'll bring it down! Right now on my 84, I built a kind of curved skeleton out of PVC pipes. This sits inside from the transom up to about the front of the motor. Then I put a tube in the front seats for support between there and the windsheild. Then I add the mooring cover and then a tarp tied tightly over the whole thing. I also crank the front up as high as it will go (until the skid plates hit the driveway) so that snow slides off to sides and rear. I started building a carport but unfourtunately haven't finsished it yet. It'll be much nicer when that's completed! Good luck - Snow on a Nautique sucks! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 11:00am
84, Where are you? If mine has lasted 12 years in northern Wisconsin, you must live in a REAL bad area of the country! The two that you bought, were they a good high quality brand? I'd like to add that my last trip up north is New Years. After that I shut down and drain the house so I'm not there to remove any snow on it the remainder of winter. 84, Are you using the screw in ground anchors? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 12:22pm
Probably not the best quaility, but not the real low end ones either. They had the 1.5" galvy pipes, but they also weren't the totally enclosed ones. (I was using just as a roof over boat. boat itself was still covered with a tarp.) Problems seemed to be with a heavy wet snow's weight between the pipes and high winds that got underneath and peeled it back like a can opener. Bent the pipes 90 deg's! And yep, even had ground stakes and added ratcheded straps to tighten as much as possible. I've seen lots of people try to leave these up as car ports and by end of winter, you see many of them on the ground. The totally enclosed ones like the rounded "cover-it" brand may work better? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 12:39pm
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84, You may have it figured out that the roof only was the problem with the wind getting under it. Mine is the "Cover-it" brand and is the house style. I did a on line search and couldn't find them but only looked at one page of results.
I do remember that when ordering it that the cheap vinyl that I got was guarantied for 7 years and the premium was for 15 years. Not feeling I would need it that long, I went cheap. I guess that at 12 years I'm now walking on thin ice but I have inspected it real close and there are no signs of vinyl problems. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 05 210
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 1:12pm
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My bro-in-law has a $600 shelter.He uses it to house small construction equipment in the winter.He used rebar bent over on the end and pounded into the ground to anchor it.We live in Maine and can get plenty of snow.He has never had a problem with his,but it has the arched roof,which appears to make all the difference.I've never seen any snow accumulate on it,it slides right off.He's very anal and has no complaints with his.It is also green and blends in very well.
Mike ------------- http:/diaries/details.asp?ID=2219" rel="nofollow - Air Nautique 210 Team 640 hours, not 1 regret |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December-05-2007 at 9:11pm
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i only paid 250 bucks for mine..maybe thats why it was a diaster
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Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-06-2007 at 4:30pm
yeah, and then do you put anything under that?? i was thinking like a big saw horse kind of thing that would sit in the boat to shed the snow.... ------------- Matt |
Posted By: DeepCreekNauti
Date Posted: December-09-2007 at 4:54pm
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We looked at a temp shelter but I was a worried about snow. I know a few guys who had problems with snow & wind resulting in a collapse. Once they fall in the structure, depending on the model, it pretty much shot.
This year, we purchased a heavy gauge cable and a 2 heavy duty tarps. We placed the trailer & boat between 2 trees on the long axis. Then we strung the cable between the trees and draped the tarps (doubled up) over it to form an 'A' frame tent. This created a steep pitched roof line. We tied down the tarps as tight as they would go. We have had a few snows and heavy rains and everything seems to be working very well. Total cost was about $60.00 not including all the beer we drank. |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: December-09-2007 at 5:01pm
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beer is the best part
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Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-10-2007 at 12:53am
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Thanks for the helpful info. I think I got covered today with this saw horse frame and a heavy duty tarp. You could probably get away with just the sawhorse alone but, like most of you, I care a little too much. I'm no carpenter but it was pretty easy and came out really solid.
I put pieces of plywood under the feet of the saw horse to avoid ripping the carpet. Using pieces of wood clamped to the swim platform, I screwed the back extension to a piece of 2x4 scrap. Up front I wedged in a 2x4 near the trailer tongue using shims with screws into the 2x4. I also ran bungees (you could use rope) from screws near the top of the saw horse to the trailer for extra snow support and sawhorse stability. I finished sharp parts of the wood by screwing pipe insulating foam to the 2x4's. I need to replace the 20'x30' tarp with something a little smaller and easier to tie off but I think this will work well for upstate NY. Cost about $100 with tarp and lots of bungees but it's reusable. This is an unproven technique but I'm very confident about it and I'm certain I'll sleep much better this winter. Maybe this will help someone else in a similaur situation. I should move south. Can't wait for spring and summer! Hope everyone has a good winter. Thanks again!  ------------- Matt |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: December-10-2007 at 1:02am
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way too much over kill. All you need to do is use your regular road cover and use one support pole behind the motor box, then throw a large tarp over that covering the platform and the rest of the boat and securely tie the tarp around the boat and running the ropes under the boat so everything is snug and not flapping in the breeze. Never once did I have a problem with too much snow on it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2007 at 7:40am
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Chris, Sorry but I don't feel Matt's method is overkill. I have used it building a ridge support for the tarp. Maybe I'm in a area (northern Wisconsin) that gets more snow than you do plus I wasn't around through the winter to remove accumlulated snow. With your method, I have seen broken windshields.
Looks good Matt, Don't forget to use some kind of a spacer at the tarp and the gunnel to provide some ventilation. I have seen quite a mess with mold in spring if the boat is sealed. This is why a good shrink wrapper will put vents in the plastic. A open ended small plywood box on each side and made so it hangs over the gunnel to keep the tarp away works. Don't forget to put the drier softener/anti static sheets inside the boat to keep the varmits out. I have also used comercial dried coyote urine in old nylons hung in the boat too. It's made for it and I felt safer than the old drier sheet trick. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: December-10-2007 at 11:00am
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pete I don't know way to much over kill to me, and have you ever heard of this stuff call Damp-rid a must for any winter storage. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2007 at 11:16am
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Chris, Absolutely the buckets of Damp-rid are great. I do know that if you don't put enough of them in the boat that they become saturated and stop working so that's why I like to see some means of venting. A lot depends on the amount of water left in the bilge and wet carpet etc. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: December-10-2007 at 11:38am
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Matt,
I'll agree w/ Pete, Looks Good! In the NorthEast it's that heavy wet snow that usually gets the best of them. The key is to have the ridge high enough to keep the snow from being able to build-up on the wide transom area. At the N.E.CCF reunion two years ago there was a good tip for keeping it mildew free - Fill a couple of buckets with charcoal that you use for the grill. Put one up front and one in back. Worked great for me. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84 |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 12:22am
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Cool. Thanks for the tips on the venting and varmit repellent too. I hadn't thought of that. Appreciate the help! :)
I'm also having prop removal issues that I need help with. Can you point me in the right direction for info on that subject too? ------------- Matt |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 7:40am
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Matt, What's the problem with the prop? Do you have or have access to a puller? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:23am
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Pete,
I do have a puller. I also spent an hour last night searching the threads here on the site for a similar problem to mine. I haven't yet tried just yanking on it with my hands but I've tried getting the puller on there with not much luck. The problem is that the strut is too close to the prop to fit the puller in their. And the position of the rudder is too close to the drive shaft to allow the puller to be properly aligned with the drive shaft. When I go to turn the steering wheel to move the rudder, it feels frozen up or something and doesn't want to move. I tried to turn the rudder itself and it doesn't want to move. It's been cold here so I'm thinking something in the steering could be frozen. I thought better to leave it and not break anything, wait for the warmer weather and try again to move the rudder. The thing is the prop needs some lovin' and ofcourse I'd love to have that fixed during the off season rather than during potential boating time! Any thoughts Pete? ------------- Matt |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:32am
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Oh yeah,
I also tried heating the prop with a torch and tapping the prop with a mini sledge and punch. Noticed little indentations from the punch on the prop and decided to stop that too. ------------- Matt |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:36am
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Im not Pete, but I have a suggestion. It sounds like the steering cable is frozen up due to the cold weather. Its best not to force it. In the future, give the wheel a turn every month or so to keep it free. Instead, disconnect the cable from the rudder- its only 1 bolt. Then, turn the rudder with your hands to give yourself enough clearance to get the puller on. Put some tension on the puller, and give the hub of the prop a shot with a soft hammer. Tighten the puller again, repeat. It'll come. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:44am
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Matt, Follow Tims suggestion. I'd like to add that since the prop is so close to the strut, that you will need to diconnect the coupling at the trans so the shaft and prop can be pulled towards the stern. You should do a alignment on it anyway so unbolting the coupling isn't a loss. You should have between a 1/2" and 1" space between the strut and the prop. Maybe someone put a shorter shaft in. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:48am
Agreed, but you would think that the decreased shaft length would give you plenty of room between the prop and rudder. Strange. With my puller, I only need ~1/4" between the prop and strut to get it on. Something is wrong if you cant get the puller between them. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:57am
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the prop should be about 1/2" from the strut for best performance, from the factory a lot of the earlier models where about 1" away from the strut. I know when I replaced my prop shaft that I did have it shortened to 49 1/2" instead of the typical 50" stock.
I doubt that the cable is frozen shouldn't be any water in to freeze. It's going to be stiff so give the rudder a steady strong pull and it should go, well unless you have something in the front seat locking up the steering wheel that is. Also are you using a prop puller or is it some other type of puller that you are using? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 12:11pm
Maybe the taper in the prop hub is too large? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 10:54pm
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Your suggestions are much appreciated!
I will make an effort to do the things you guys suggested. Right now it's freezing rain and dark out. I should mention this is my first boat and I'm in love with it. I've enjoyed the few hours I spent on the water immensley and have enjoyed winterizing and tinkering this past few weeks, but I also obviously don't know alot about them. I will continue to search the forums here for info and will write back to this thread as soon as I touch the boat again (maybe this weekend) .... but... Could someone please explain the best way to search for info and topics on this site? I looked through 49 pages of threads last night and it was hard to find the info I was looking for. I don't have any literature or manuals at this point and I'm not the most savy mechanic or computer person...so your guys info and time is very, very, very appreciated. Thanks a bunch. The boat is an '82 Tique w/ a 302. I was using an actual prop puller but their appears to be around only an 1/8th inch gap from strut to prop. I think I read somewhere on how to pull the shaft last night but will have to try and search again. Don't know how to do an alignment and same with even getting to the steering cable near the prop! Back cover should come off pretty easy right? The point is, thanks for your patience and time. Look forward to learning and loving some more. These boats kick ass!! ------------- Matt |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:17pm
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Matt, welcome to the site.
There is a lot of info to be gained here if you can sift thru the BS,Sarcasm and Rambling that comes from this group of misfits. Not only will we give advice and instructions on any topic, if you supply the drinks and food you could possibly have some of us show up to help. Remove the rear seat and you will see the link arm and the bolt that holds it all together. As far as the clearance between the prop and the strut, it could be that the shaft has moved forward inside the coupling.Removal is the only sure way to see if this has happened. Keep us posted as to progress on this project, again WELCOME........Boat Dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:22pm
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ok to start are you sure you winterized it correctly?
to disconnect the prop shaft is pretty easy. Lift the motor box and at the back in the center of the boat you will see where the shaft connects to the transmission there are two couplings connected by four bolts. Remove the the four nuts and bolts and then you can pull on the prop to separate the two coupling's one is attached to the shaft and the other is part of the tranny. Maybe Tim can post a picture for you. To get to the steering cable there is a panel behind the back seat cushion just remove the back cushion and then remove the vertical panel and then you will see the tiller arm and cable under the gas tank close to the transom and remove the one bolt attaching the two you should be able to figure it out pretty easily once you see it. Start there and we'll move on later. damn it Doc ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 12:40am
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Thanks Gentlemen!
That's a helpful start for me next time out. I'll check it all out asap. It winterized correctly thanks to my buddy in NC, whom I visited on the way home when I was dragging the boat from Alabama. He's a long time CC guy and super anal, which is great. He's got an '86 SN. Wish I didn't have to go to work so I could put this puppy to sleep for the winter and get started on other projects around the house. Oh well, it'll get done. Would an 'alignment' be done on the shaft by a shop like when they redo the prop? Thanks in advance, you guys have been great!! ------------- Matt |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 1:29am
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do a search for alignment on this site Eric explains in detail the procedure. You are basically adjusting the motor and tranny mounts so that the two faces of the couplings (prop shaft and transmission output shaft) are square to each other something you need to check every year at the beginning of the season or again if you unfortunately hit something with the prop. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 8:14am
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Matt, You mentioned that you looked at 49 pages the other night. Have you been using the sites search feature? It is a great tool but the key word entered in it will make a difference. For example, you would want to put in the word "alignment" to look for info and the procedure of adusting the engine mounts. If you put in "shaft" you may end up some of the PLBC guys ranting about a "mine is bigger than yours" topic. (You stick with us long enough and you'll get to know what to expect from the group!)
The Doc had a excelent point about the prop shaft moving forward in the coupling. Get it disconnected and see what's inside. Look for a local prop shop that can check your prop and do any needed repairs. I do not recomend taking it to a marina because they just send it to the prop shop and then add a fee on the bill. You can also ship it to Delta (one of our sponsors-link above) and they will do a good job for you. Keep us informed. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 8:25am
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Matt, Here's a link to Eric's thread on alignment. He by the way is our on site transmission specialist. He does it for a living and takes care of everone here who spells his name with a C rather than a K!!! Don't ever make the mistake of using a K!!! I think I'm going to live with it till I die!
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6037&KW=alignment - Eric's thread and pictorial ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: December-12-2007 at 11:08am
But Pete it was ORIGINAL when you did it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-13-2007 at 5:28pm
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Ok Gents,
I was able to do most of what you mentioned this morning before work. Got the rudder turned, seperated the shaft at the tranny coupling. It appears (from memory this morning) that the end of the shaft was about flush with the coupling that's attached to it. Is that the correct position or has the shaft moved? There's room now to get the puller on but.... The problem is the puller itself. The bolt on the prop puller is about 6 inches long. Too long, even with the rudder turned. I need to try and get a different bolt for the puller. The friend whom I barrowed it from has much bigger, older, wooden Chris Crafts. Will be in touch soon, hopefully :) And thanks for the help with searches, suggestions and the 'alignment' thread. Very Cool. ------------- Matt |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-13-2007 at 11:05pm
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Matt, The shaft end should be flush with the inside face of the coupling so the shaft is probably 1/2" short.
The puller that you borrowed from your friend sounds like a gear puller and not a prop puller. This may be one of the reasons you are having a problem with getting it on as well as the rudder interfering. Here's a couple styles of pullers made for props: 
Does the puller you are using look like ether of them? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: curvylake
Date Posted: December-14-2007 at 2:12am
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No, defenetely not.
The puller I have has 3 'splines' attached to a central piece that hook around the prop and a bolt going through the center of the piece that drives into the end of the shaft. Guess I should look into buying a proper prop puller if you will. Thanks for the info Pete. I'll be working on it. ------------- Matt |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-14-2007 at 7:28am
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Matt, From your decription it does sound like a gear puller, Now that you have the coupling separated, you will have room to get the arms behind the hub of the prop. It should work so you don't have to run out and get a puller. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-14-2007 at 12:55pm
Well, it's been a while.
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