Fuel tank removal '95 SN
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51077
Printed Date: April-26-2024 at 8:35am
Topic: Fuel tank removal '95 SN
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Subject: Fuel tank removal '95 SN
Date Posted: March-27-2023 at 11:21am
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So i have noticed a bit of a fuel smell in the stern of my boat, and looks like the gasket for the fuel gauge sender is full of cracks and splits... regardless of if this is the source of the leak, i want to replace it. I removed the two straps in the front of the tank, the black brackets in the lower front of the gas tank. I loosened the hose clamps that hold the vent hose and the fuel filler hose but i have been hesitant to pull these hoses off. There's not a lot of room to move the 1.5" fuel fill hose and i am concerned it could break off the tank. I really only need to pull the tank forward enough to get access to the sender... there's a bracket on the bottom of the tank that spans the middle cavity and prevents me from just rotating the tank from the port side. so- (1) how best to remove the fuel filler hose without breaking something (2) the shower pump motor was also ziptied to the gas tank strap- where do the shower pumps usually live? Any suggestions? https://ibb.co/kGhnY70" rel="nofollow">
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Replies:
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: March-27-2023 at 1:15pm
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Have not pulled this specific tank but from my work on some older ones I would: 1) loosen the hose clamp on the thru-hull fuel tank vent and pull that hose off the vent 2) loosen the hose clamp on the fuel fill hose that connects to the fuel fill fitting on the deck 3) take the fuel fill off the deck (three screws I think)...this will allow the tank to slide out or give you room to remove the fuel fill hose from the tank 4) pull the tank carefully while watching for wires etc that may be zip tied tight in that area Also, I would think about protecting the carpet where you will be puling the tank out...the tank is likely to be dirty on the bottom.
------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-27-2023 at 5:40pm
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Since you just did some prop shaft repacking, if you're having any thoughts however slight about doing anything with the rudder packing................now is the time to do it. Your tank has that little sump poking out the bottom that really gets in the way if you're trying to do rudder packing with the tank in place. If you pull the tank, the rudder work is a whole lot easier.  Only a couple or few years had that sump and yours is one of them. It's easy to see in your picture.
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Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: March-27-2023 at 7:00pm
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yea, its probably a good idea to repack the rudder- i did also see a picture of a tank with what looked like a foam ring in it... i hope i don't have one of those. is the process similar to shown for this '97 sport? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ntMEH1XHJc if so, having the tank out would be beneficial. I am planning to relocate the shower pump as it was ziptied to the port side strap of the fuel tank and it rested on top of the tank. In my research, most are located in the engine area on the port side... any reason the original installer would have placed the pump on top of the fuel tank? |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 2:53am
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I feel your pain. I pulled the tank in my 1994. It was a b!tch. All hoses have to be disconnected (fill, vent, and fuel line). Space is tight. The un-gel coated fiberglass may draw some blood on a knuckle or 2. I thought I would break a tank fitting, but those tanks are very strong. Keep going. You're almost there. JQ
------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 6:33am
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Since you have the sump, you'll have the foam ring unless somebody has been in there before and taken it out. And the process is similar to the video you posted, but he didn't have to deal with the little sump This thread in the link is probably the one you saw with pictures. The link to PN in that thread has the pictures http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49933&KW=tank&title=fuel-tank-antislosh-foam-ring" rel="nofollow - link It also has some comments about "ease of rudder access" ,with none of them being good comments
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Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 7:20am
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yes, that's the thread i was reading. Sounds like once i get the tank out, I will have some inspecting to do. Fingers crossed there's no hidden suprises. Worst case scenario: if i have to replace the tank, are they even still available? Thanks for all the info!
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 7:36am
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I don't think you'll have to worry about replacing the tank. You probably have a better chance of seeing Bigfoot than finding a new duplicate replacement. If you're happy with your fuel level sending unit, keep it, if you're not then look into the magnetic reed switch type like KUS, WEMA Generally more accurate, less bouncy and just another way to spend some more money
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 12:28pm
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I repacked my rudder on my 1995 with the tank in place and it was no fun at all so great idea to do it while the tank is out. I was advised at the time, 7 years ago to install a grease zerk on the steering rudder while I was in there. It was not hard, drill a hole and screw in a grease zerk, I did this but have not greased it again since. Steering is still free and light, no drag. If I had a do over I would buy one of the grease extensions that Moog sells. It is optional for the GM trucks, 2000 to 2006, they supply it for the idler arm to allow you to grease the idler arm without taking the shields off the truck to gain access. Would work well to get the rudder zerk greased without taking the rear of the boat apart. Hang in there and the boat will be ready for play soon and better than ever. Mark ------------- |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 12:54pm
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yeah once i get the tank out, i plan to repack and add a zerk- thats a great idea to add a grease extender. |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-28-2023 at 2:35pm
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Just had one out of a '94...no sump, but still a PITA, So while in there, do all you may ever want to...new hoses, etc. Secure the grab rail nuts, check wiring, esp. any grounds, etc. Rudder/steering as mentioned... ------------- 1994 Ski Nautique "Riot" 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: March-30-2023 at 12:25pm
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So i have removed the vent hose from it's fitting by the fuel filler, and have removed the fuel filler screws but it's held in place by silicone(?) and won't budge... i will try some dental floss to see if i can cut through it on the outside, but it is a royal PITA! the bilge pump discharge port is also in the way... i can see why nobody likes this job. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: March-30-2023 at 12:35pm
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Can’t be silicone, silicone falls apart when exposed not gas fumes. There is a product that will seal gasoline vapors. I think it is Hylomar? ------------- |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: March-30-2023 at 1:25pm
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Yes, so even with the fuel filler hose clamps well loosened, that hose sticks tenaciously to the filler. Spray with some penetrating oil to loosed. Twist while pulling up on filler.
------------- 1994 Ski Nautique "Riot" 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: March-30-2023 at 1:43pm
would this have been used to seal the metal filler tube to the fiberglass body from the factory?
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MrMcD wrote:Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: March-30-2023 at 4:12pm
Been there, done that. I may have used Channel-Lock pipe pliers to help "persuade" the filler hose. It finally came off. Good thing my wife didn't hear a few choice words that were employed during the extraction process... JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: March-31-2023 at 8:32pm
I will try the penetrating oil, but i can't even get the metal filler to seperate from the boat on the outside, i plan to run some dental floss around the lip and then i'll wrench on it and see if it loosens thanks for the info |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-01-2023 at 2:50am
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I didn’t pull the fuel filler from outside the hull. I kept that in place and focused on the hose that connects to the tank. Why do you feel that you need to pull the filler/cap assembly? JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: bwinn
Date Posted: April-01-2023 at 8:08am
| 90 degree pick might be helpful. Carefully ease it in, maybe with some grease on it. Better if it’s not a sharp pointed one. Work it around the hose to break bond. I haven’t actually done this on your application so might not be helpful but this is what I do with hoses often. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-01-2023 at 9:28am
With the mounting screws for the filler assembly loose like he has them, it's a lot easier to wrestle with the hose to get it off the tank with some twisting and lifting. You're only fighting with one end of the hose while the other end at the filler can rotate and move with the filler instead of both ends of the hose being fixed to something that doesn't move. With the hose clamps removed from the hose, you can then take the filler and hose off together pulling them up through the deck mounting hole for the filler without kinking and bending that hose and any excessive swearing And putting it back together is a lot easier too. Is your tank empty or close to it, it's hard to tell in the picture? Using a wedge under the tank on the filler side to put upward pressure on the tank, hose and filler will probably pop the filler away from the deck
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Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-01-2023 at 11:53am
| Lots of good feedback- i don't believe there is much fuel in the tank since i ran it pretty low before putting into the garage... however pumping out the old gas is on the list of things to do... |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-01-2023 at 9:56pm
| so i was able to get the tank out of the stern. PITA for sure. i haven't yet been able to get the hose off the plastic tank... i ordered new hose so i may just cut it off. the primary reason was to replace the gasket around the fuel sender. however it was corroded on top and bottom so i ordered a replacement. the rubber seal around the fuel pump looks in decent shape... any know where those are for sale or will i need to make a new one? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-02-2023 at 8:40am
You don't have a fuel pump in the tank, are you talking about the rubber donut or the gasket at the top of the suction assembly where it attaches to the tank? How about some pictures of the tank showing all the fittings etc. to make it easier for the next guy referring to this thread, since there aren't exactly many pictures of a bare naked 95 gas tank out in the open? |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-02-2023 at 12:04pm
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i will work on compiling pictures of this ordeal. gasket at the top of the suction assembly where it attaches to the tank - this is what i was looking to find. Is it available?
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-02-2023 at 7:22pm
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That a lot of small holes to punch in a homemade gasket. I wouldn't know where to look for a new one unless there's one collecting dust at a CC dealer somewhere. Since you say it's in good shape, I wouldn't be afraid to reuse it with a little of your favorite gas resistant gasket sealer on both sides if you're worried about it leaking. Something like Permatex2 or an equivalent from other companies
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-02-2023 at 7:34pm
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The Old MG cars have a fuel sender that mounts from the bottom of the tank. British Idea. The only thing that they have found to seal gasoline at the tank connection is Hyloamar. I ordered a tube off Amazon and used it to seal a gas tank on a Mercedes E350. It is good stuff and from what I read you can trust it to seal. Some motorcycle tanks have the same problem and those guys use Hylomar also. ------------- |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-03-2023 at 12:32am
It looks like its in decent shape, I'll check it and see, if its bad, i'll scan it in and see if a buddy can laser cut me a new one. Otherwise permatex it will be. i checked the tank, i have a black foam gasket at the bottom... it appears it might be in 1 piece although it is shifted... i will post more info. I was able to get the fuel fill hose off as well... more to come
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Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-08-2023 at 10:05pm
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Updates: i don't have a lot of pictures, but here's the deal. I was able to remove the tank After looking at the gasket and underside of the fuel sender (corroded) i ordered a new one from nautiqueparts.com. I am also replacing the all the fuel lines from the tank to the engine (reusing the vent hose) and new fuel-water seperator filter (i have the sierra 18-7845) and i sandblasted and repainted the fuel-water filter housing. The gasket for the fuel pickup is okay on one side, but nasty on the side where it was in contact with the aluminum. The ground wire nearly corroded all the way through the aluminum plate. https://ibb.co/2K76WnL" rel="nofollow">  I have created a template in fusion360 for a replacement gasket and if i can find a replacement material, i will laser-cut a new gasket. I have to also clean off the underside of the fuel pickup plate. I do have the black donut in the bottom of the tank... it came out in 1 piece and doesn't appear too crumbly but i am not sure i want to put it back in. I plan to call correctcraft to see if they have any recommendation to deal with the foam thingy. I will try to get more pictures soon.
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Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-10-2023 at 11:22am
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So having talked to another member with the same tank, sounds like no need for the foam. I found my top plate to be more corroded than i expected (see picture). I contemplate JB weld, but the more i think about it, the more i think it makes sense to have a new plate fabbed and use a standard rigid plastic pickup tube. https://ibb.co/JkGtMDb" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: tnplicky
Date Posted: April-10-2023 at 7:20pm
| I am very interested in your project. I have been thinking about doing the same (also '95 SN) but have not pulled the trigger yet. Have you been able to identify the source of the fuel "leak"/smell? |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-11-2023 at 12:38am
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i assume it is due to the corrosion in the plates and gaskets. I am replacing all of the fuel lines and i am having a custom fuel pickup plate and gasket made as these are not available. i also ordered a new fuel sender unit. once this is all back in place, i cannot think of a reason why the boat should have a gas smell...only time will tell. PM me if you want the dxf files (drawings) for the plate/gasket. If you are interested in purchasing, i can ask the fabricator if he would want to make additional sets |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-20-2023 at 12:14pm
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Update- Replaced all the fuel lines to the engine from the gas tank. I 3d printed a replacement fuel line clip https://ibb.co/vkgLTcz" rel="nofollow">  and installed them in place of the factory zipties (the grey hose is for the shower). https://ibb.co/JB24Pzy" rel="nofollow">  Redid the rudder packing and added a zerk fitting with grease hose extender https://ibb.co/cFWYjSB" rel="nofollow">  I am planning to head to the lake to see if there are any leaks from the rudder/driveshaft before putting the gas tank |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-20-2023 at 1:33pm
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Very nice work. You'll be happy with your efforts once it's back in the water. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: April-21-2023 at 1:47am
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You are making progress quickly, you will have a reliable boat this year and just in time for the season. ------------- |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-27-2023 at 4:12pm
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Got the new plate and gaskets finished and installed on the tank. I think its ready to install back in the stern now https://ibb.co/37TQXhN" rel="nofollow">
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Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-28-2023 at 11:53am
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tank is now back in the boat https://ibb.co/6NNP1vT" rel="nofollow">  and i hope i never have to do this job again! i still have to tighten all the bolts to final specs. https://ibb.co/swCmkQW" rel="nofollow">  turns out my fuel line clips hold the hose too high on the wall to clear the bolts for the tank straps. Had to drop the shower hose and shift the lines to the bottom two clips. |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: April-28-2023 at 12:14pm
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Nice work. Hopefully you won't have to go through that again. I really like the concept in the new SN with the center fuel tank. Too bad these older boats have the rear tanks and all the "fun" that comes with them. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: LooseScrew22
Date Posted: April-29-2023 at 12:23pm
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She's all back together- time to hit the lake and make sure everything works! https://ibb.co/phjSZqV" rel="nofollow">  https://ibb.co/2n6YRjj" rel="nofollow">
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