Sorry - no pic.  I have tried to upload a picture of the dash but keep getting an error.  Using a Mac.  I've tried Safari and Chrome:

Hmmmm.  That could be a problem.  Maybe you could not find them at NautiqueParts because they are "breakers" not switches.  That being said, I went to the website, searched for breakers and 2 came up, 20 amp and 6 amp.  But unfortunately they are out of stock/no longer available.  That is quite unfortunate as they do tend to wear out and there are a zillion of us out here that use/need them.  Hopefully someone else has another lead on them.

As far as posting photos, that has been a problem, but doable now.  Take a look at this thread.

https://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=51030&title=new-posting-photos-from-phone-or-computer" rel="nofollow - Posting photos

Numerous people with problems with those combination switch/breakers have sprayed a little WD 40 in and exercised the breakers and they've worked like new again.

You could call it a temporary fix for a handful of years or so 

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48151&title=ignition-button-powers-up-dash" rel="nofollow - link

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42858&title=sticky-dash-push-button-switch" rel="nofollow - link

And here's a link to the switches on nautiqueparts.com. if you want new ones  Looks to me like they're in stock

http://www.nautiqueparts.com/product/circuit-breaker-switch/" rel="nofollow - link to switches on NP

SkiDim carries them too

http://skidim.com/engine/electrical-and-tune-up/breakers-relays.html" rel="nofollow - link to switches on SkiDim

You can find them cheaper on Ebay too, maybe not all the sizes, but here's an example for a 20 amp ETA breaker With a little effort you can find all the sizes you need, dirt cheap on Ebay. Search for ETA breaker and weed through all the choices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/402945077815?epid=663904468&hash=item5dd165f237:g:6yAAAOSwGzFg1ORZ" rel="nofollow - link

Gotta go, I'm all linked out for now 

PS..............If you have to turn the ignition switch/breaker off to save the battery, you have other problems like an electrical draw at the dash that's draining the battery. 

Ken, Just so you dont think Im crazy or stupid for saying they are out of stock.  Wonder why we got different results.  Maybe they just dont like me.

https://ibb.co/pncpWVW" rel="nofollow">

I think it's the note that says the one in your picture has screw type terminals used in 84,85 and everything newer like in my link has the push on spade terminals and a higher price to go with them.

I think Jay is picture practicing, he's almost got it

Jay,

regarding the picture thing, I think you didnt select the correct embed code, otherwise, good to go.

https://ibb.co/GVmrq9k" rel="nofollow">

Ken, glad they're still out there.  Couldnt imagine them being NLA

Here's your picture

Here's a little help, like Larry said, click on BBCode full linked, instead of whatever you clicked on before and do the copy and paste and you'll be posting pictures. 

Look at the screenshot below and you want to click on the gray highlighted copy for the BB code (big red arrow pointing at it)

It looks like you clicked on the first one that says "image link" which sounds logical but doesn't work.(at least it doesn't work here on CCF}

So what makes it drain the battery?

JQ

So I guess that if your new truck or Gary's older truck ran down the battery after a couple days of being parked, the solution would be to disconnect the battery ?...............or maybe find the problem and fix it?

TRBenj wrote: Agree with ken, I never shut that ign breaker off. Assuming the later 90’s boats are wired the same as the late 80’s and early 90’s, it’s technically not an ignition breaker btw- it cuts all (batt) power to the dash as well as the downstream ignition circuits. Which includes everything that’s switched- most notably the bilge pump. Considering people moor their boats, I’m fairly certain the intent is not to turn that ign breaker off very often…

This has been discussed a bunch of times, worth repeating.  While I think it was a mistake on Nautique's part to let the bilge pumps be switched off with the ignition breaker, that's water under the bridge/over the dam.  The fact is if you click ignition off, bilge pumps are off, leaving your boat at high risk if in the water.  I leave my igntion on any time except when on the trailer, and sometimes then as well.  I don't know how long the battery lasts, in my case I know I've gone 10 days between starts and fired up ok, though I'd say a noticeable bit of battery drain at that point.

I also had a family member and a few friends switch it off, saying "you left that switch on, I saw the red light, didn't want your battery to drain."  I saw or heard it within an hour of happening so no big deal, but worth letting others know to leave it on as well.

I've never heard of that 2nd blower, wonder if it was added later.  Can't imagine what it's doing unless someone thought they needed "ram air" supplied to the doghouse through the hull.  No way any sort of blower, or always on motor, can be switched by the ignition switch since it forces you to turn it off and kill the bilge pumps (assuming all these boats were wired similarly).

Wiring is sketchy in any of these boats, specifically attention to adequate dash power feed and ground, many people improve them.  Not that undersized positive or ground to the dash has anything to do with battery drain.

BTW Most people found their 83 blowers mounted under the rear deck above the gas tank

I would think using WD 40 to loosen up the dash switches would promote dirt sticking to the oil causing the switches to fail sooner than later?   I know it displaces water but it also attracts dirt.’

Mark

It's probably cleaning up some corrosion that was affecting the switch's operation.

If people are having their stereos drain the battery in a few days, I'd wonder what's different from a car stereo that can sit in a car for let's say a month or more and you go out and start the vehicle with no battery issues.

Typically there's keep alive power and ignition(switched) power each from a different location. Keep alive is always there when the battery is hooked up and ignition power is only there when the key is ON.

Keep alive power draw is measured in milliamps like maybe 10 Ma (.01 amps) and that'll take a long long time to drain a battery enough so that it won't start the engine. A lot more than a few days

So...........what's the difference? Goofy factory wiring, homegrown installations or something else?

mrhemi wrote: My '83 was an early build 2nd or 3rd one. Originally built for Mercruiser with a Mercruiser 350 in it. That may account for the different blower location. I work an photos.