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Replacing transmission cooler

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50947
Printed Date: March-28-2023 at 1:58am


Topic: Replacing transmission cooler
Posted By: tjs1295
Subject: Replacing transmission cooler
Date Posted: October-12-2022 at 12:52pm
Hello everyone,

I haven't asked for help in years, but found a problem when I went to winterize my 2007 Ski Natuique with the Excalibur 330 engine. I noticed some water in the bilge after sitting in my garage for almost a month. Traced it to the transmission cooler. Pulled the hose, and noticed the lip has been partly crushed. I'm going to try and replace the cooler myself. Is there anything special I need to do with the lines that come and go from the transmission? Or is it as simple as unhooking them, putting the new cooler in place, and attaching the lines again? And keep in mind, I'm not exactly a mechanic, so use simple words with me.

Thanks!!



Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-12-2022 at 1:16pm
It's like you say, just keep the oil return line above the transmission so you don't try to drain it.

You could watch the video below and try fixing what you have. It works pretty well.

Just a couple of caveman tools

The worst you could do would be to wreck it and need a new one like you're planning on anyways Wink

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjjbYGqybiE" rel="nofollow - link


Posted By: tjs1295
Date Posted: October-12-2022 at 1:22pm
Thanks KENO for the info, and the link. I will definitely try pounding on it with the socket. Like you said, worst I can do is wreck something that's already messed up. 


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: October-12-2022 at 1:34pm
I should add , a greased up wooden dowel with a little taper on the end works good too.


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: November-29-2022 at 4:16pm
i've got the same problem on my '88. my initial thought was a socket, but not quite how the video showed. i'm going to try that method and then a dowel pending the success of the socket. pretty sure i crushed my with the hose clamp. these are indeed soft.

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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-04-2022 at 9:54am
i was able to get the opening back to (mostly) round with the socket and hammer method. i'm considering inserting a small section of 7/8" OD X 0.035" wall Al tube to reinforce the opening and prevent me from crushing it again with the hose clamp. the tube would reduce the X-section area (and flow) by ~8%. probably less of an impact than the crushed opening. thoughts?

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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: December-04-2022 at 10:12am
As long as the reinforcement tube stays put and doesn’t impede water flow, I say give it a try…

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2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow (current)
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow (sold)
Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-04-2022 at 11:14am
well, the reduced cross section area (-8%) due to the insert will impede flow, but it will be installed to minimize any other disturbance. it would be a press fit. after the repair, the ID is a little < 7/8". that + the hose clamp should do it I think. i think the risk is low. going to give it a try.

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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-04-2022 at 5:48pm
I don't think you should worry too much about your reduced cross section and it's affect on flow since if you look at your one inch pump suction line between the hull inlet and the pump, you have a handful of restrictions that are about the same size as what you're talking about (roughly 3/4 inch openings)

Your one inch suction hose clamps over a 3/4 inch pipe at the intake (that's a 3/4 inch ID opening), then if you have a suction strainer the inlet and outlet barbed fittings also have about 3/4 inch ID openings, then you go through the transmission cooler which you're gonna put a fitting or 2 in, then the suction fitting on your Sherwood pump is also about 3/4 inch ID.

That adds up to plenty of restrictions that you never notice

If I was gonna put a sleeve in one end of the cooler, I'd put one in the other end too so that I could use the same amount of gorilla force on both hose clamps without crushing either end. Wink




Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-05-2022 at 1:46pm
agreed regarding all the other restrictions. I'll follow up in the spring if it starts overheating or any other strange behavior. i'm only inserting the "sleeve" on one side. the ID of the cooler is a bit over 7/8". the sleeve would be loose in the uncrushed side, but it's tight on the other side due to the deformation. i'll be more careful when I tighten the hose clamps. you can see in the photo that it's not a perfect fit, again because of the crush.



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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-05-2022 at 4:56pm
Wouldn't it be better to make your sleeve out of copper to avoid dissimilar metals? 

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-05-2022 at 5:52pm
yes, it would be. i don't have a copper sleeve though. i'll see what it looks like after a season.

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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-05-2022 at 6:18pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Wouldn't it be better to make your sleeve out of copper to avoid dissimilar metals? 

What a lead in Gary Wink
 
And here I was today, playing with some 3/4 inch copper plumbing tubing/pipe whatever you want to call it.

3/4 inch is the ID and the OD is 7/8 inch.

If you take some tubing and solder it to a coupler for connecting 2 pieces of 3/4 inch  tubing together then make a couple of cuts, you have a sleeve that can't fall into the cooler and it you won't have to worry about it disintegrating and turning into dust due to galvanic corrosion. 

Here are a couple of pictures

First one..............Tubing and coupler



Second one.............coupler soldered to tubing and then the coupler end was cut so there was about an 1/8 of an inch of the coupler, then the tube was cut the same length as the area you're trying to reinforce.


The you slip the small end into the cooler hose connection and the added thickness of the coupler keeps it  from sliding into the end bell of the cooler accidentally

I slid it into a cooler end bell and put a 1 inch hose on and tightened that poor hose clamp till it was ready to break and had no crushing at all of the cooler tubing.

It's a little loose in an undamaged cooler fitting like you said, but a little of your favorite epoxy and it won't go anywhere and pretty much makes the connection crush proof.

I'd guess that you could accomplish the same thing with a tubing expander and not need to do any soldering




Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-05-2022 at 10:16pm

What a team Ken,nice job. Hoping Santa brings me a shirt. 




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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-12-2022 at 6:44pm
had an early christmas gift from ken at then end of last week. installed this weekend. fits great, won't corrode, and I can clamp with gorilla force! i like it a lot. unfortunately I can't post photos...some error message about not enough disc space? i'll try again later.

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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: December-14-2022 at 11:33am




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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: December-14-2022 at 7:11pm
Way to go KENO.

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2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow (current)
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow (sold)
Aqua skiing, ergo sum



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