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Pulling bearing and housing off pump shaft

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Off Topic
Forum Discription: Anything non-Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49585
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 9:31am


Topic: Pulling bearing and housing off pump shaft
Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Subject: Pulling bearing and housing off pump shaft
Date Posted: January-29-2021 at 3:21am
Following on from my pump related thread https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49584&PID=593966&title=electric-motors-near-fuel-tank#593966" rel="nofollow - here , when I disassembled one of the pumps for inspection/cleaning/maintenance, one of the bolts broke off in the bearing housing/motor cover plate (not sure what exactly to call it). Now I need to drill that broken piece out. To do that, I'm going to have to pull the housing and bearing off the shaft.





Questions:
  1. Will I have to pull the housing/cover plate off first, and then the bearing, or should both come off at the same time?
  2. Can I do this with a normal gear/bearing puller tool (like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70302" rel="nofollow - puller ) or will I risk damaging the housing/cover plate in the process? I'm concerned about the large diameter of the housing/cover plate relative to the small diameter of the bearing, and exerting pulling force on the perimeter of the housing while the center of the housing is stuck on the outer race of the bearing.
Thanks for any help here!


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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.



Replies:
Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-29-2021 at 4:45am
On my Sherwood the bearing taps into the housing and then shaft thru bear, reverse process. PBblaster
Not sure you would want to try and tap bearing in with windings attached
But let’s get a second opinion here


Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: January-29-2021 at 9:49am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Mustang17Orange Mustang17Orange wrote:

Which CRC would you use after you use the B52 cleaner?

3-36

Pete, in this post from https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39230&KW=3%2D36&PID=509709&title=how-to-clean-engine#509709" rel="nofollow - this thread , you recommended CRC3-36 for rust prevention. Can that also be sprayed onto the components of an electrical motor to prevent rust? Or not a good idea?


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1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-29-2021 at 6:51pm
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:

Pete, in this post from https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39230&KW=3%2D36&PID=509709&title=how-to-clean-engine#509709" rel="nofollow - this thread , you recommended CRC3-36 for rust prevention. Can that also be sprayed onto the components of an electrical motor to prevent rust? Or not a good idea?

From the looks of the pump, it looks pretty good inside so I suspect most of the corrosion you are seeing is external. I wouldn't hesitate using the CRC on the pump. The only place I would avoid is the armature commutator. External you may even want to consider LPS #3 if you can get it over there.

Getting that broken bolt out could be a problem if you're not careful drilling down the middle. 


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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-30-2021 at 4:46am
Dremel makes a micro-diamond bit
I used it to start a pilot hole in a broken off ‘easy out’ extractor. Worked good may need 2
Drill and chase threads out
Be careful with extractor, they snap and double your problem


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-30-2021 at 6:19am
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:

Following on from my pump related thread https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49584&PID=593966&title=electric-motors-near-fuel-tank#593966" rel="nofollow - here , when I disassembled one of the pumps for inspection/cleaning/maintenance, one of the bolts broke off in the bearing housing/motor cover plate (not sure what exactly to call it). Now I need to drill that broken piece out. To do that, I'm going to have to pull the housing and bearing off the shaft.





Questions:
  1. Will I have to pull the housing/cover plate off first, and then the bearing, or should both come off at the same time?
  2. Can I do this with a normal gear/bearing puller tool (like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kti-70302" rel="nofollow - puller ) or will I risk damaging the housing/cover plate in the process? I'm concerned about the large diameter of the housing/cover plate relative to the small diameter of the bearing, and exerting pulling force on the perimeter of the housing while the center of the housing is stuck on the outer race of the bearing.
Thanks for any help here!

Back to your original question, assuming you don't have a press, if you use a brass hammer and hit the end of the shaft while holding or supporting the end cover either the shaft will come out of the bearing or the shaft and bearing will come out of the housing.

A little heat from a heat gun will help if it's being stubborn

Don't go "early caveman" beating on it if it doesn't work.

Finding somebody with a press would be better and easier than the puller you linked

Here's some info from CRC on motor cleaning in the link below

http://www.techni-tool.com/ARTICLES/CRC-Water-Damage-Guide" rel="nofollow - link

And here's a CRC catalog with the 6 bazillion products they have

http://www.crcindustries.com/" rel="nofollow - link


Posted By: Wilhelm Hertzog
Date Posted: January-31-2021 at 1:42am
Oops. Guess I should have taken more heed of the 'early caveman' warning. Broke just after I had gotten it moving off the shaft. Well at least now I wont have to struggle with getting it back on again.



Thanks for all the tips and advice though, hugely appreciated as always.


-------------
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.


Posted By: 67 ski nat
Date Posted: January-31-2021 at 1:49am
Shoots. Kinda looks like thin pot metal?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-31-2021 at 6:13am
Originally posted by 67 ski nat 67 ski nat wrote:

Shoots. Kinda looks like thin pot metal?

No, it's a zinc die casting.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_metal" rel="nofollow - Pot metal - Wikipedia


-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: January-31-2021 at 6:36am
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:

Oops. Guess I should have taken more heed of the 'early caveman' warning. Broke just after I had gotten it moving off the shaft. Well at least now I wont have to struggle with getting it back on again.



Thanks for all the tips and advice though, hugely appreciated as always.

You big brute you  Wink, at least you got a CRC catalog and you probably really have no need to get into the other pumps

It does look like it moved a little like you said



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