Print Page | Close Window

best replacment block

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4954
Printed Date: June-16-2024 at 5:16pm


Topic: best replacment block
Posted By: inboard60
Subject: best replacment block
Date Posted: October-09-2006 at 4:37pm
I just bought a pristine 86 silver nautique. Sat in a warehouse most of its life. My two teenage sons went and picked it up half way across the country and did a great job checking it out except they did not notice the freeze plugs had been popped and replaced. Well I took it out for about three weekends kept the oil checked and no sign of water on the dipstick. Took it out last week and changed the oil finally. Drained water out and then the milky oil.

My question is what to do? Buy new GT 40 complete and really have a unique boat, get a Jasper reman or maybe a First mate reman. Watch ebay all winter and pick up a salvage. Also there were metal filings that came out of the oil filter. Some of you have been there. Maybe someone would like to have a pristine 86 silver project. Help!!!!

-------------
Lets go to the lake one more weekend!!!!!



Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-09-2006 at 4:43pm
Where are you located? The most economical route would be to get a new/used/rebuilt block (short block) and swap over all your good parts. A new GT40 motor should fit, but would be expensive.

-------------


Posted By: inboard60
Date Posted: October-09-2006 at 5:55pm
Not Afganastan as Keith has shown on my post. Arkansas about 1 hour from Memphis.

-------------
Lets go to the lake one more weekend!!!!!


Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-09-2006 at 8:01pm
I sold a gt40 to a friend, HO boss 5.8, he installed into his sea-ray, it had 215 hours on it, it was a complete engine even with the altenator. he did not realize his transom was rotted and unrepairable. the boat is at my shop ready to be yanked and winter is around the corner. I can gat a heck of a deal if i buy it back.the replacemnt engine that this boat came from was identical right from pcm and it cost him with labor $7500.00. please call me and i will explain how i came across the engine. 877-369-6693 the engine runs perfect and i can get this motor for around 2500.00 to 3000.00 IT IS WELL WORTH this price. I personally stay away from jasper engines in boats
it seems like they go for 3 or 4 years and take a crap.    eric   

-------------
"the things you own will start to own you"


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-11-2006 at 8:28am
How handy are ya? You can most likely handle this project anywhere between 1000 dollars and a lot of work (if ya have the tools and space) and 7-8 k with the flick of a pen and a sharp pain in the wallet. If you want to take it on we can talk you through anything, if you want to get rid of it and buy something that works your also in the right place...

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: inboard60
Date Posted: October-11-2006 at 1:49pm
Talked to guys at marineexhaustmanifolds.com yesterday and advised about the busted manifold and he said that I may just have a leak from the manifold coming back down the cylinder or something like that. Didn't realize this could cause a problem. Whats crazy is the boat runs like a dream, doesn't smoke, seems to have the correct compression. Can water leak back down through a cracked manifold? After I changed the oil last week I took it out and ran and there is no sign of water in the oil. Think I am going to change the manifolds, change the oil one more time and go out and take a long run and see if that was the problem? What are your thoughts?

-------------
Lets go to the lake one more weekend!!!!!


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: October-11-2006 at 4:41pm
inboard 60 where in ark. does this newly acquired C/C reside............i am a resident of the state below you.sounds like Little Rock?...glad to have someone on board that is a little closer to La. lottsa good info to be found on this site,concerned about the metal tho,you should pressure test the manifolds before you buy new ones tho,real easy test.   boat dr

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-11-2006 at 5:57pm
you should pressure test the manifolds, its unlikely that water from the manifolds is making it into the oil but possible in a round about way. Manifolds are that cheap so take them off and pressure test them before you decide to replace them.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: tleed
Date Posted: October-13-2006 at 12:04am
I'd do a lot more testing before I sprang for a whole motor or trashed the boat.

I haven't heard that you've done a basic compression test to see if you have a cracked head. My block and heads cracked over last winter. Which is to say that if your freeze plugs popped, it's not unthinkable that a head cracked. Which wouldn't be hard to replace and way cheaper than a whole motor.

Thomas


Posted By: inboard60
Date Posted: October-13-2006 at 10:23am
Thanks for all the great info. So if compression test shows that heads are bad do we just install new heads. This would be great as I would really like to put GT 40 heads on the boat. If the heads are bad how do we know that there is not a problem with the block?

-------------
Lets go to the lake one more weekend!!!!!


Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: October-13-2006 at 11:25am
If the compression test is not good then you don't know for sure if its the heads, could be a crack in the cylinder, blown head gasket, or possibly a crack in the heads maybe something else I am not thinking of that would put water in the oil and ruin compression who knows I am a bit hungover.. anyway if compression was good then you would be leaning towards exhaust manifolds again...

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video


Posted By: dans
Date Posted: October-16-2006 at 11:35pm
If you have water leaking from a hose or somewere stupid it can spay out or drip onto the belts and get slung up into your intake.Or if your bilge gets to high the belts can also sling water up. I had this happen once & it made my oil milky.My boat was ok after I fixed the leak & changed the oil right away a couple of times.Dan

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1404&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1981&yrend=198582 - 82 2001


Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 5:15pm
if compression test fails pull heads and have them magnafluxed. That will tell you if the head is craked. If the heads are ok more than likely the block that is bad. In my opinion.

But if you can't find the right help on this site, then I don't think you will find it anywhere else, because all these guys here are very sharp on their info.

-------------
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s95/buckethead1236/Barefooter6-10-09002.jpg" rel="nofollow - MY 87BFN



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: October-17-2006 at 6:34pm
screw the compression test you need to perform a cyclinder leak down test and that will tell you if it's the head, block or the gasket no guessing that way. A compression test will just narrow it down to one cyclinder and not tell you if it is the head gasket, valves or rings.

-------------
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique



Print Page | Close Window