96, Most likely Ashland AME4000, maybe 5000.

Edit 93 was the beginning of the 5000, but regardless it's vinylester and vinylester and polyester play well together 

Link to 93 brochure below

http://www.planetnautique.com/CorrectCraftManuals/1993/1993Brochure.pdf" rel="nofollow - link

My only thought on your question is that I think somebody with initials like TRB for example could give you a better answer than I could 

Plenty of other people too, but that's the first person that popped into my head.

PS..........the resin info is somewhat buried in the brochures, but it's there........  89 till 92 was AME4000.and  93 till ?? AME5000

Few more questions about the epoxy/poly debate before I start...

1) I want to somewhat level and smooth the floor for the seadek. Local composites store recommended to just use poly resin and micro-balloons to create my own fairing compound. Do you guys think this will bond well to the old floor? I know epoxy bonds better. But since I will gelcoat, they said its better (and cheaper) to just use poly. Since the boat is all synthetic with no wood, I'm cool with the poly route but don't want to have any delamination issues. 

2) Is there any benefit to a premixed poly fairing compound vs mix my own? I want it to be very sandable.

3) I am replacing hatches with coosa board. Do I need to do anything to the coosa before the gelcoat?

4) On the rear hatch, I am laminating 2 pieces of 1/2 inch coosa together. What's the best way to laminate, can I just use poly and clamp or screw it together or do I need mat? Or should I epoxy it together? I'd prefer to keep the supplies simple.

Thanks!

Remaining question: how much sanding/grinding do I need to do to the old floor before starting to fair? The old matt is showing through pretty pronounced. As long as the old glass is clean, it should form a mechanical bond with all the old mat texture, correct? Or do I have this wrong?