going to get up under the bow then pull motor and drive.

making it up as I go, have read many of the posts here...kind of have an idea of where to go.

Brett there are archived details rebuilds here within the forum.

other good resources of techniques and glasswork and materials selection on YT channel FriscoBoater's Garage, and BoatworksToday, as well as many others

Brett

There's no need to get up under the bow to take the engine or drivetrain out.

I just thought you'd maybe like a little "snarkasm" since you haven't been here in a while 

Anyone need some foam chunks??

If there is another layer the Southwind will become a yard ornament or paintball target.

First off you must really like that Southwind a lot to start into this endeavor, secondly I'd get some drywall on that stud wall before the grinding starts. 

Great observation of the stud wall.

i have a few basic questions...real entry level stuff.I am attaching two pics, question is are these considered "stringers" at first, I thought any of the wood under the fiberglass was part of the stringers. Now I am thinking the stringers are the stringers and the two pics I am adding are just part of the decking or whatever the technical name is. 

if they are not part of the stringers, does this mean they do not need to be replaced with the accuracy needed for the stringers? Can I customize, move, etc?

expand for storage, built in cooler etc?

No, the wood in you picture are not part of the stringer system. It's there so there's something to screw the forward seats to. 

You know it but I do prefer straight studs   Looks like new construction with that nice clean light gray concrete floor. 

Ah, I remember when mine looked like that many projects ago 

Since the Southwind and BFN are pretty much the same under the sole (ya catch that Pete?) you'll come up with a number of detailed threads about replacing their stringers and floors that you'll get plenty of info from.

I know better than to pop off on a thread you are on.

Send a PM to swilliams, I remember him offering an e mail copy of an OMC manual to someone a few years ago 

Link to Steve:

https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=16774" rel="nofollow - https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/member_profile.asp?PF=16774

He was offering to e mail a wiring diagram, not a complete manual, but PM him anyways, a wiring diagram might be handy.

He has a manual but it's on paper from what I could figure out looking at his old posts.

any info I can get will help with rebuild.

and dang, what an observant group...

Brett

I am going to get the motor ready to pull.

From my reading here it seems pretty straight forward

Take plenty of pictures

label everything I disconnect

pull motor and drive together

clean shop floor.

please keep in mind that I have no mechanical or construction experience whatsoever so extreme novice.

I red on here somewhere in one of the stringer threads that doing the stringers is something everyone should do once.

made sense...and then I decided everyone should also rebuild a 350 in their life.

there is so much source material available...why not try...

total investment in project so far-300.00 including the boat...worst case, lots of entertainment for little investment.

best case-man card!!!

 

My cousin is helping me physically pull the motor, he is a farmer and the project got put on hold until they finished the harvest.

more progress pics to come....

heres the latest -

I am thinking of doing a few fun things such as adding some storage and cup holders when i do the floor.

I have completely fried two angle grinders, one a Makita and one a Harbor Freight cheapy.

I am running on good extension cord, is this just from the fiberglass dust?

Would a belt sander held up better?

I'm not. They don't have a grreat track record with me. 

Any self respecting backyard hack would buy a Harbor Freight grinder and when the cashier asks "do you want the extended warranty" quickly say yes if you're gonna abuse the snot out of it.

Unless of course it's really cheap and the warranty costs as much as the grinder, then you just buy another one at the same time.

Their return policy is pretty liberal

The security team looks poised and ready to leap into action 

Brett dump the flappers ( not much better than sandpaper)  and go to your local Autobody supply store and get a bunch of 3m 24 & 36 grit grinding discs. They will cut your work in half 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114053890463?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/114053890463?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40064909/?preselect=3292890893+8758460" rel="nofollow - https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40064909/?preselect=3292890893+8758460

Green or maroon either or doesn’t matter I’ve used both with same amount of success.

Most economical and effective way to go in my opinion ;

The harbor freight polisher as pictured (not random orbit).

The 600 to 3500 rpm range is ideal for all kinds of grinding cutting and buffing, but lets stick with grinding.

By the pictures

The motor is pressure sensitive, so at all rpms when you lean on it, it'll torque like a mother to maintain the setting

Save any and all other thread on or spacers from your other grinders, they come in real handy for flap discs to keep the arbor off what your grinding.

Speed control knob is in a good spot, it comes with a 7 inch rubber backed velcro pad, 4 inch pads are available, i hole saw the beat up pads to whatever diameter is needed.

Throw out the d-ring handle if it has one and use the single hand grip from one of the busted 4 inch on either side depending where your at in the boat.

Economically, the velcro grinding discs are the way to go, you need 36 and 80 grit for this part of the job.

The 4, 41/2 inch grinders spin at 12500 rpm, boom it's game on, getting surgical is tough at that speed on your knees in a corner on the bottom of a boat.  

On slow speed you can get in, cut, grind shape just about any material even without a good gip on the machine, the 4 inch is like holding a giant python thats trying to get loose and bite you.

Its not as loud and doesn't throw dust as far or as hard at 3500 compared to 12000 but it makes the same amount.

Cut your old tabbing down with the 4 inch pad, then feather it in and flatten it out with the 7 inch pad so the new stringers and tabbing go a little easier.

Don't waste your money on a belt sander for this job. 

Grinders and fiberglass don't play well together, the dust clogs up the motor loosing cooling air and even the gears and bearings get dust, after a while it'll start rattling and coming apart on ya.

Sorry if i sound a little short, was on my way out the door when i seen this and quick grabbed up the stuff to take pics and post.

I agree and also you'll need to be careful to not go all the way through the hull! 

Hate that place but still go there

Edit - next time they say that I will plug it in there before I pay!

Thanks