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Losing tach

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=49203
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 1:06pm


Topic: Losing tach
Posted By: Tbarile
Subject: Losing tach
Date Posted: September-07-2020 at 6:35pm
I have an 02 196 gt40 ford and have been having problems where the tach will drop to zero and then begin bouncing around. The boat runs fine but when we are running through the course, perfect pass surges because it’s trying to get back to it’s set rpms. All the wiring on the back of the dash looks good. Any suggestions on how to fix? It usually starts the morning out great but after the first couple sets (30 minutes or so) the tach will drop off, but it doesn’t happen every day! Thanks for any insight.



Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-07-2020 at 7:47pm
Read the thread in the link and give the little selector switch a try

It might work, it might not, but it costs nothing to try it Wink

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48695&KW=tach&title=97-tach-has-mind-of-its-own" rel="nofollow - link




Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-08-2020 at 7:34am
Thanks. I read the thread which makes me realize I probably should have added more info (but I will look to see if the back of my gauge has that).

The boat is new to me and when we bought it, the original digital gauges didn't work so I replaced with the Faria tach and gps speedo.  When we lose the rpm's, both the tach and perfect pass lose the signal.  That leads me to believe it's not the tach but the signal.  




Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-08-2020 at 8:11am
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Thanks. I read the thread which makes me realize I probably should have added more info (but I will look to see if the back of my gauge has that).

The boat is new to me and when we bought it, the original digital gauges didn't work so I replaced with the Faria tach and gps speedo.  When we lose the rpm's, both the tach and perfect pass lose the signal.  That leads me to believe it's not the tach but the signal.  



Maybe this will help

Click on the link and go to page 6-4 for the tach circuit wiring

If you're looking for the 10 way connector part 7 in the diagram, it's really an 8 plug connector on a PCM Gt40

As an added bonus, now you have a GT40 manual if you didn't have one already Wink

http://www.planetnautique.com/CorrectCraftManuals/GT-40%20Service%20Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - link


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-08-2020 at 10:09am
Thanks!

Now I just need to figure out where to go from here!


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-22-2020 at 8:20pm
Any other help out there? We’ve looked over the wiring and nothing stands out.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-23-2020 at 7:38am
Since you bought the boat with PP which I guess we could assume was working and it had a dead tach and then you replaced the tach, is this when the issues started with PP?

What if you unwire the tach, does PP then work correctly?

I know nothing about PP, but the answers to the above would probably be helpful Wink


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-23-2020 at 10:43am
I don’t know if PP had any issues as we changed out tach and speedo prior to putting in water. We have disconnected the tach to see if that was causing any issues but the problem still happens.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-23-2020 at 11:19am
Todd,
Check the voltage the PP is getting especially when it decides to malfunction. Use a VOM and NOT the gauge at the helm. 


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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-23-2020 at 11:56am
There is a provision to use an inverted tach signal with Oerfect Pass Star Gazer. I had t use it with my 2004 SN for solid results.  Go to perfect pass.com for details but it is accessed through the PP menu under setup.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-23-2020 at 10:06pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Todd,
Check the voltage the PP is getting especially when it decides to malfunction. Use a VOM and NOT the gauge at the helm. 


What do you connect volt meter (I assume that’s VOM) to?


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-23-2020 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

There is a provision to use an inverted tach signal with Oerfect Pass Star Gazer. I had t use it with my 2004 SN for solid results.  Go to perfect pass.com for details but it is accessed through the PP menu under setup.


I have pp digital pro. I’ve spoken with PP about this issue and they say slalom mode, which runs of rpm, has no way of bypassing/running without getting the rpm signal.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 5:25am
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Todd,
Check the voltage the PP is getting especially when it decides to malfunction. Use a VOM and NOT the gauge at the helm. 


What do you connect volt meter (I assume that’s VOM) to?

Where the PP at the helm is getting it's power. 

Todd,
It's come up on site before that the PP's are sensitive to low voltage and the reason I suggested checking the volts. 


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Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 10:53am
I only have an analog multimeter so I’m having a digital One delivered tomorrow to make it easier.

Also, this isn’t just an issue with perfect pass losing the signal, the Faria tach loses it as well.

I spoke with a mechanics last night and he thinks it’s the gateway box. Thoughts?


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

I only have an analog multimeter so I’m having a digital One delivered tomorrow to make it easier.

Also, this isn’t just an issue with perfect pass losing the signal, the Faria tach loses it as well.

I spoke with a mechanics last night and he thinks it’s the gateway box. Thoughts?

What year did they start using the gateway box?  ...............At least a couple years or so after 2002


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 12:31pm
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

I only have an analog multimeter so I’m having a digital One delivered tomorrow to make it easier.

Todd,
Digital or analog doesn't make a difference. Unless you get a very high end digital, they typically do not react very quick to short spikes in readings. There are times when I actually prefer an analog because you can see the needle twitch when there's a spike. 


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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 1:41pm
Hey Pete, I’ve your looking for voltage spikes it’s time to break out the oscilloscope. I recommend tektronix. No DVM or analog voltmeter will show a spike.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 2:24pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

Hey Pete, I’ve your looking for voltage spikes it’s time to break out the oscilloscope. I recommend tektronix. No DVM or analog voltmeter will show a spike.


So your saying I won’t be able to see anything with a voltmeter?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 2:28pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

Hey Pete, I’ve your looking for voltage spikes it’s time to break out the oscilloscope. I recommend tektronix. No DVM or analog voltmeter will show a spike.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

  There are times when I actually prefer an analog because you can see the needle twitch when there's a spike. 

"TWITCH"


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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 2:29pm
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

Hey Pete, I’ve your looking for voltage spikes it’s time to break out the oscilloscope. I recommend tektronix. No DVM or analog voltmeter will show a spike.


So your saying I won’t be able to see anything with a voltmeter?

Yes you will be fine with ether a digital or analog.
David is just confusing the issue. 


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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 2:47pm
Well Pete I have 2 years of US Navy electrical and electronic training and a 2 year technical college degree in Electrical Engineering Technlolgy and can guarantee that no one can see a voltage spike using anything but an oscilloscope. I believe your training is in mechanical engineering. For simple “static” testing of voltage, current and resistance a DVM is totally acceptable. Not trying to confuse or deflect anything. Twitch or spike, whatever.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 3:25pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

Well Pete I have 2 years of US Navy electrical and electronic training and a 2 year technical college degree in Electrical Engineering Technlolgy and can guarantee that no one can see a voltage spike using anything but an oscilloscope. I believe your training is in mechanical engineering. For simple “static” testing of voltage, current and resistance a DVM is totally acceptable. Not trying to confuse or deflect anything. Twitch or spike, whatever.

David,
Sorry you've never had the oportunity to see an analog meter needle twitch. 


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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 3:28pm
Of course I have but it cannot be counted on. BTW I received my electrical/electronic training in 1965, no DVMs were in production at that time.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 3:36pm
Dave

I think you have Pete twitching right now Wink

Easy enough to find out how long a "spike" lasts. Not very long.............one billionth of a second.

I think Pete has made up this "twitch" term.

By the way Todd, back to our regularly scheduled programming, I don't think you have a Faria gateway box to have to worry about in your 2002. Key word being "think" Wink


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 3:42pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Dave

I think you have Pete twitching right now Wink

Easy enough to find out how long a "spike" lasts. Not very long.............one billionth of a second.

I think Pete has made up this "twitch" term.

By the way Todd, back to our regularly scheduled programming, I don't think you have a Faria gateway box to have to worry about in your 2002. Key word being "think" Wink


What is the box behind driver kick panel?


Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 3:46pm
I have a heater behind mine. Unless you have a heater I doubt there’s anything besides a bit of dust. Hey KENO in the Navy we were looking for any spikes over 2 milliseconds.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Dave
I think you have Pete twitching right now
Not I but I feel sorry for Todd after Dave almost had him going out and purchasing a tektronix.oscilloscope.to measure a simple voltage check on a PP. Cry


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Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 4:04pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

I have a heater behind mine. Unless you have a heater I doubt there’s anything besides a bit of dust. Hey KENO in the Navy we were looking for any spikes over 2 milliseconds.


I have a black box that all of the wires go into and come out of.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 4:37pm
Maybe it's a terminology thing

Your 02 has Teleflex gauges right? Maybe your 02 has a box with a different name like "black box" Wink

It's called a PME box, it has breakers and relays to function with the keypads on the dash.

DV Skier has an 04 with a Chevy and I'd figure Faria gauges so he may have a Faria gateway box in a different spot.




Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 4:44pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Maybe it's a terminology thing

Your 02 has Teleflex gauges right? Maybe your 02 has a box with a different name like "black box" Wink

DV Skier has an 04 with a Chevy and I'd figure Faria gauges so he may have a Faria gateway box in a different spot.




I originally had teleflex gauges but had to swap them out for the Faria because they stopped working.


Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 6:25pm
Yeah my gateway box is on the fantail. Pete know where that is.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 7:11pm
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Maybe it's a terminology thing

Your 02 has Teleflex gauges right? Maybe your 02 has a box with a different name like "black box" Wink

DV Skier has an 04 with a Chevy and I'd figure Faria gauges so he may have a Faria gateway box in a different spot.




I originally had teleflex gauges but had to swap them out for the Faria because they stopped working.

Not that it really matters but was it just the tach and speedometer that got swapped or all the gauges?

I suppose if it's your black box that's the problem, you'll be spending lotsa bucks, probably enough to make you twitch Wink


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 7:33pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

Yeah my gateway box is on the fantail. Pete know where that is.

What are you boating in? I didn't know you have a large yacht were the stern overhangs the transom! 


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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-24-2020 at 9:23pm
Aft bulkhead. Was on a cruiser 547’ 55’ beam.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 8:24am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Maybe it's a terminology thing

Your 02 has Teleflex gauges right? Maybe your 02 has a box with a different name like "black box" Wink

DV Skier has an 04 with a Chevy and I'd figure Faria gauges so he may have a Faria gateway box in a different spot.




I originally had teleflex gauges but had to swap them out for the Faria because they stopped working.


Not that it really matters but was it just the tach and speedometer that got swapped or all the gauges?

I suppose if it's your black box that's the problem, you'll be spending lotsa bucks, probably enough to make you twitch Wink


Only changed speedo and tach


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 3:48pm
Out of curiosity. If the voltage isn’t going to change, only “twitch”, how will I see this? Wouldn’t I have to be focused on the VOM the entire time while driving? If so, that’s not realistic as I need to be watching how I’m driving through the course.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Out of curiosity. If the voltage isn’t going to change, only “twitch”, how will I see this? Wouldn’t I have to be focused on the VOM the entire time while driving? If so, that’s not realistic as I need to be watching how I’m driving through the course.

You want to look for low voltage. The PP's don't like low volts and the reason I suggested getting a reading. Don't worry about the twitch. I should have never brought it up. I only mentioned the twitch when I said there are times when I actually prefer an anolog gauge. Again, for you to get a voltage reading, you can use ether a digital or analog. Again, don't worry about the twitch. Put that out of your mind! 


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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

Out of curiosity. If the voltage isn’t going to change, only “twitch”, how will I see this? Wouldn’t I have to be focused on the VOM the entire time while driving? If so, that’s not realistic as I need to be watching how I’m driving through the course.

You want to look for low voltage. The PP's don't like low volts and the reason I suggested getting a reading. Don't worry about the twitch. I should have never brought it up. I only mentioned the twitch when I said there are times when I actually prefer an anolog gauge. Again, for you to get a voltage reading, you can use ether a digital or analog. Again, don't worry about the twitch. Put that out of your mind! 


You're probably smart enough to realize that "Twitch B" seems to have danced all around the questions you asked Wink


Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 5:49pm
 Twitch is not a valid electrical term. Never heard it in over 4 hours of formal training.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 6:53pm
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

 Twitch is not a valid electrical term. Never heard it in over 4 hours of formal training.
4 hours!!!  LOLLOL That doesn't surprise me at all. 


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Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-25-2020 at 9:07pm
Actually 4 years.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-26-2020 at 9:51am
So voltage when running was 13.3-13.7. When we lost rpm signal it was 13.2-13-3. Really didn’t change.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-26-2020 at 9:59am
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

So voltage when running was 13.3-13.7. When we lost rpm signal it was 13.2-13-3. Really didn’t change.

 Where did you get the reading? If where the PP is getting the volts at the helm, that's a good reading.

Regarding PP's and low voltage, there are several threads on members having to upgrade their wiring up to the helm due to voltage drops affecting their PP's. 


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Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-26-2020 at 11:52am
I got the reading off the back of the tach, PP has a 6 pin connector so there isn’t a place to pull from.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 8:55am
Any other suggestions out there? I’ve thought about trying to bypass the rpm wire and run it straight from the ecu but can’t figure out how to do that with it being in a connector.


Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 9:13am
Have you tried calling Perfect Pass tech support? They always help me graciously when I have any issues.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 9:51am
Originally posted by DVskier DVskier wrote:

Have you tried calling Perfect Pass tech support? They always help me graciously when I have any issues.


Yes, they say it’s not a PP issue because the tach is losing rpm signal as well. They say there is something causing the rpm signal to be lost, possibly a short in the rpm signal wire.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 9:59am
Originally posted by Tbarile Tbarile wrote:

  Yes, they say it’s not a PP issue because the tach is losing rpm signal as well. They say there is something causing the rpm signal to be lost, possibly a short in the rpm signal wire.

Todd,
Check and clean all the connections in that wire. If there's any connector plugand sockets, open them up and take a close look. Use dielectric grease when reconnecting.

BTW, it's not a "short" but it would be an intermitant "open". Many misuse the term "short". 


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Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 11:07am
Always gives me a chuckle as well Pete. The tachometer circuit is on page 6-4 of the gt40 service manual

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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 12:18pm
I don't think you really care if it's an open or a short or a twitch or spike or whatever that's causing your issues as long as you get it fixedWink

Looking back, I don't see that you unplugged the PP and drove the boat to see if the tach malfunctions  with PP unpowered.

I'd do that, so you can say for sure that the problem is not in the PP or the tach, then you can look at the diagram (Fig 6-4) that's been referenced a couple of times by a couple of different people.

Only you and the PP guys know what you have for a PP setup, but I figure they could tell you how to pull the tach signal from upstream of the "black box" and power it from the battery too. 

They had PP for GT40's before they had the digital gauges so there must be a way to get that signal relatively easily.

The tach signal starts at the coil, goes thru the 22K resistor and your 8 plug connector along with the associated wiring to get to the black box.

You really don't know that it's a power loss at all and going by your voltage numbers from the other day, it doesn't appear to be. 

It looks a lot more like a signal loss, but I think you already know or suspect that Wink


Posted By: DVskier
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 12:47pm
The tach signal is the grey wire.


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


I don't think you really care if it's an open or a short or a twitch or spike or whatever that's causing your issues as long as you get it fixedWink

Looking back, I don't see that you unplugged the PP and drove the boat to see if the tach malfunctions  with PP unpowered.

I'd do that, so you can say for sure that the problem is not in the PP or the tach, then you can look at the diagram (Fig 6-4) that's been referenced a couple of times by a couple of different people.

Only you and the PP guys know what you have for a PP setup, but I figure they could tell you how to pull the tach signal from upstream of the "black box" and power it from the battery too. 

They had PP for GT40's before they had the digital gauges so there must be a way to get that signal relatively easily.

The tach signal starts at the coil, goes thru the 22K resistor and your 8 plug connector along with the associated wiring to get to the black box.

You really don't know that it's a power loss at all and going by your voltage numbers from the other day, it doesn't appear to be. 

It looks a lot more like a signal loss, but I think you already know or suspect that Wink



I have not disconnected the PP as we always use it for skiing through the course and that’s the only time we run the boat. PP said they pull their Rpm separate from the tach so they are “confident” it’s not a PP issue...

I should have been more clear. Is there a way to tie into the grey wire back at the ecu without cutting it so that I can run a wire directly to the tach and PP? I assume the 8 pin connector is plugged into the bottom of the ecu?


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-28-2020 at 7:48pm
Maybe you should unplug the PP and go for a ride............call it troubleshooting to try to find your problem Wink

You got a wiring diagram for your PP?

The 8 pin connector is at the back of the engine and connects the engine harness to the boat harness that goes to the dash.

You can find the gray wire right there and it runs up to the dash area.

The 8 pin connector doesn't connect to the ECU.

Withoiut a diagram of the boat wiring, black box and it's connections, I don't think anybody is gonna come up with any suggestions.

If you can't get an answer from PP, try calling Jody at Florida Inboards in Panama City FL with your problem, he does plenty of work with  PP 

Here's a link below to some of his info

http://www.google.com/search?gs_ssp=eJzj4tZP1zcsq8w2tsgpMWC0UjWosLCwNLYwTjNJMrBMtDROtbQyqDAzSDVKMko2Mkw2SDVOMk7yEkjLyS_KTElUyMxLyk8sSikGALwbFQg&q=florida+inboards&oq=flo&aqs=chrome.1.69i59j46l2j69i57j69i65j69i60j69i61j69i60.3264j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow - link


Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-29-2020 at 2:16pm
Let me start by saying THANK YOU to everyone for their responses.  I'm sure it can be extremely frustrating dealing with a guy that hasn't worked on this stuff before.  I'm a quick learner but haven't played around with the engine/wiring too much.

I left Jody a message so hopefully he calls back.

I haven't been able to run the boat with PP disconnected due to weather but I will try it.

In the meantime, I crawled behind the dash and push dielectric grease in the connector but struggled to find the other connections back in the engine.  Is this grey wire the tach wire?

Thanks again for helping instead of banning me from this site!





Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-29-2020 at 4:23pm
Todd,
Have you looked for this 8 pin? 

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

The 8 pin connector is at the back of the engine and connects the engine harness to the boat harness that goes to the dash.

Remember, you just don't want to add the dielectric grease to them. Make sure the male and females ends are cleaned up first. You what to look for corrosion that may be the source of the tach problem.


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Posted By: Tbarile
Date Posted: September-29-2020 at 5:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:



Todd,
Have you looked for this 8 pin? 

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

The 8 pin connector is at the back of the engine and connects the engine harness to the boat harness that goes to the dash.

Remember, you just don't want to add the dielectric grease to them. Make sure the male and females ends are cleaned up first. You what to look for corrosion that may be the source of the tach problem.




I can’t seem to find it. There are quite a few things all wrapped up in tape. Anyone have a pic of where exactly it should be?


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-29-2020 at 6:04pm
Big 8 pin plug right behind the starboard valve cover near bellhousing area




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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-29-2020 at 6:09pm
That grey wire originates up here at the coil but also goes thru a 22K resistor then the 8 pin plug then to the dash

 


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-29-2020 at 6:40pm
Todd,
If you do find that any connector needs cleaning, I've found that pipe cleaners work great on the female sockets and a Scotchbrite pad works on the male pins. On terminals and studs, the Scotchbrite works great on them too. 


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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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