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1964 CC Classic Restoration

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40851
Printed Date: February-09-2023 at 3:31am


Topic: 1964 CC Classic Restoration
Posted By: quinner
Subject: 1964 CC Classic Restoration
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 2:53pm
As some may know I recently purchased a new to me 1964 Correct Craft Classic in the very rare Blue, I will start a new thread on the boat as a whole soon however at this point I am looking for guidance on basic tune up and engine parts.

Zach and Timmy helped me get the boat running last weekend (thanks again boys!), she ran fairly well but Zach suggested a complete tune-up. Based on their observations they believe this boat has a factory downdraft 4 barrel.

What I am looking for is part numbers for the following items:
Oil Filter - looks to be screw on type, not a canister but too beat up to read anything on it
Spark Plugs & Gap
Cap, Rotor, Points, Condenser
Anything special on plug wires??

And if other then NAPA best source to purchase items

Thanks in advance and some pics from the maiden voyage











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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt



Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 3:24pm
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:






First you should clean it out before launching   

Napa will most likely be best for tuneup parts. I went to mine down here for PCM parts,the counter man said as he looked for an old parts catalog that it was worth it's weight in gold---

Pete will be along to recommend Autozone shortly

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: john b
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 3:56pm
Beautiful boat. That is all.

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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 4:08pm
Chris,
I get all my tune up parts from Napa. There's also a Sierra    kit out there.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:06pm



NAPA gold filter is 1521

Highly doubtful that is an original marine carb set up.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:15pm
Whys that Bruce? I see no signs of a conversion. Fuel lines, carb, intake, motorbox all look original. At least to these non-expert eyes.


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:18pm
If that is the same boat that has been for sale 2 previous times over the years, 62Wood and I did extensive research on it and determined it was a likely convert, Not that there's anything wrong with that.

Here's an old pic. Motor box looks raised. Fuel line doesn't look original. Thermostat housing looks pretty neat. What's the lettering say on it?


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:27pm
Bruce thanks, I will get some better pics of the engine, there is one pic in my first post.
Serial number is PC239, have the build sheet as well, will get that in here as well.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:28pm
Pic is shown above as well, but yes. Got to crawl all over it this past weekend. Didn't see any signs of it being a conversion- carb swap, paint color/patina, motorbox construction/modifications, etc. All looked legit to these uncalibrated eyes. Believe Kutsch had similar thoughts, comparing to his fathers 64.


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:41pm
It's a great looking boat. I really like the colors.

It's certainly possible that it's original. Interceptor may have put some down drafts on them towards the end of the line and they never made it into the manuals. Or they could have offered a conversion kit. The thermostat housing does look like it was made for marine use.

The motor box doesn't look like it's been altered?


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:43pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

NAPA gold filter is 1521

My 312 uses a Napa Gold 1068. It's a shorter filter since the X55 stringer is close to the filter.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:47pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

NAPA gold filter is 1521

My 312 uses a Napa Gold 1068. It's a shorter filter since the X55 stringer is close to the filter.


1068? Isn't that a GM number?


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:50pm
Me too Bruce Ever since seeing my first Classic thought they were cool, after I drove Reid's I thought they were Super Cool, after seeing my first Blue one I knew I had to have one! The Blue is in decent shape and should polish out nicely, the white is cracked throughout and has paint or something below the boot stripe, tested a couple spots and hoping it will shine up again which should make the cracks fade quite a bit.. Below the boot strip won't really know until I can strip what is there.


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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 5:55pm
Sparkplugs are Champion F10. They don't make that number anymore, but NAPA will cross reference them.

Chris, Keep in mind how cool Reid's is and how imperfect the gel is. If you've got just the white hull to deal with, you're in good shape.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:04pm
The Blue being in good shape was a pleasant surprise. Kutsch has a 64' Ski Nautique with same color combo and looking at mine he said their white hull is exactly the same, cracked throughout.

Thanks for all the part numbers, any idea on the cap and rotor??

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:11pm
No on the cap and rotor. We've never changed ours.   I think the rotor is the same one all Mallory YL's use, which won't mean much at NAPA. You may have to remove them and bring them in. That's a lot quicker than standing at the counter watching someone paw through all their books.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:20pm
Thanks again Bruce, I will be sure and post the NAPA numbers for future reference

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

NAPA gold filter is 1521

My 312 uses a Napa Gold 1068. It's a shorter filter since the X55 stringer is close to the filter.


1068? Isn't that a GM number?

Bruce,
I have no idea but it's the filter I've been using for around 40 years!!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:34pm
Like Riley said those part numbers are for a Mallory distributor

I have a fairly old NAPA marine catalog that gives numbers shown below for a Mallory marine distributor for a 312 Ford
Cap   18-5376
Rotor 18-5404-1
Condenser 18-5338
Points 18-5314

This would be for a Mallory distributor with the normal looking cap not the crab cap.

The Mallory distributor number on the tag if it's still there might be YL-350A or YL 387A, both take the same parts listed above.

If you have a crab cap there would be different numbers for the cap and rotor.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:36pm
Originally posted by Riley Riley wrote:

No on the cap and rotor. We've never changed ours.   I think the rotor is the same one all Mallory YL's use, which won't mean much at NAPA. You may have to remove them and bring them in. That's a lot quicker than standing at the counter watching someone paw through all their books.

The cap, rotor and condenser is included in the Sierra kit. It's their part # 18-5271

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: illiniball2000
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 6:58pm
Cant wait to drink a beer in that beauty!

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Beer is my friend
87 Dominique
Had 67 Starflite


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


The cap, rotor and condenser is included in the Sierra kit. It's their part # 18-5271


Somebody must have hacked Pete's account, since the real Pete has no love at all for Sierra parts. Pretty much despises anything Sierra

Oh that's right Sierra and NAPA have the same part numbers.

Why is that Pete?


Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Like Riley said those part numbers are for a Mallory distributor
Cap   18-5376
Rotor 18-5404-1
Condenser 18-5338
Points 18-5314


E-Bay shows the following for these numbers
cap        24pcs
rotor       15pcs
cond        9pcs
points     15pcs

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Keep it as original as YOU want it
        1978 Mustang (modified)


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


The cap, rotor and condenser is included in the Sierra kit. It's their part # 18-5271


Somebody must have hacked Pete's account, since the real Pete has no love at all for Sierra parts. Pretty much despises anything Sierra

Oh that's right Sierra and NAPA have the same part numbers.

Why is that Pete?

Ken,
Napa and Sierra have the same #'s! The Chinese copy everything!! Well, you do learn something every day of your life and still die stupid! No, as a rule I don't like Sierra but I just happen to have a #18-5271 kit in my marine cabinet. I got it just before I took the X55 to GL one year. I figured I had better give the 312 a tune up so just in case my 25 year old point set failed, I wouldn't hear about it from all the CCfan members the rest of my life!    Well, Napa did end up coming up with all the Echlin parts so I never used the Sierra kit.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 7:52pm
The real Pete is back

Since you'll never use your Sierra kit, why don't you be a good guy and ship it down to Quinner since they're the same parts as he'd get at NAPA?


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 7:57pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Bruce,
I have no idea but it's the filter I've been using for around 40 years!!


You should change your oil and filter more often Pete I think 40 years is really pushing it.

The plugs cross reference to Champion part # 129 RF 10C knowing that you can cross reference to other brands

The Echlin ignition parts I just bought were made in Mexico

http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/F10C" rel="nofollow - Cross reference for Champion F10

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: April-13-2017 at 8:35pm
Very cool boat. Is there a story about the color. It doesn't look blue. The brochure says there was a turquoise option but not blue.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 10:45am
Bruce, I agree with Tim. I haven't seen many 312s up close but that intake manifold looked to be specifically designed for marine used. The rear runners were quite a bit taller in the rear and shorter in the front presumable to compensate for the rearward angle of the engine in the boats/running on plane.

The carburetor is unlike any 4bbl I have ever seen before. It was similar in design to the early 90s "Fishbowl Holley", The entire top half could be removed to open the fuel bowls and the vacuum secondary was located on the rear (facing rearward) bowl.

All of the paint/patina matched the engine exactly as far as I could tell. It even had a brass tube that came up to the (What would be electric choke puck but was not) to heat the choke spring with exhaust gasses from the intake crossover.

Steve commented that the paint on the inside of the engine box appeared to be original like his dads.

Certainly, not some backyard 4bbl conversion. Maybe an upgrade offered from interceptor? Very neat and period correct from what I could tell. 4bbl even still works!

We didn't look at the prop but by driving it I could tell it was over propped. Tach was INOP but when the 4bbl opened there was a tiny increase in RPM and lots more noise.

Pumped for Chris to get it running properly with some smooth running gear. I will foot behind that thing.


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 10:58am
Looks like this baby is an Autolite 4100 series 4 bbl. First making its appearance on a 57 T bird 312. 4100 production ran from 57-65. Certainly possible the boat came from interceptor this way given the period the carbs came on factory vehicles.



https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/mus/2006/02/Autolite-4-barrel-carburetors/1282069.html" rel="nofollow - 4100 info


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 11:06am
Zach, could be... The intake looks different from ours which is a TBird manifold. It's a late model boat and could have one of the last Y blocks Interceptor put out and they may have introduced a downdraft for them by that time.. Our '66 Mustang has a downdraft which I believe is factory and I have not seen any reference to those, other than similar vintage Mustangs with the same set up. That vintage boat was definitely the end of the line for those 6 bangers. The motor box doesn't look like it's been added onto along the bottom?

The intake should say Interceptor on it somewhere if they made it. If it's a Ford intake, it should have a Ford number on it. Sometimes it's difficult to tell original from a modification on a 50 year old modification.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 11:24am
Boat Build date was 01/27/1964 Engine Serial No. CE31R319045
E=312, 3= 1963, 1=Trans 1:1, R=right hand, 319045=serial numberm

Sean, color is Turquoise, my loose reference is Blue

Do not know too much about the boat yet, so far traced it back 3 prior PO's, Charles Weigano in Columbus Ohio sold to Sun Ray Marine, Richard Belz of Knoxville Tennessee purchased from Sun Ray, John Walsh of Lexington Kentucky purchased from Mr Belz and I purchased from John.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 11:42am
Bruce, I think that was just thicker boards to strengthen the corners but I didn't take an extra close look at it.

Also didn't see if it had markings on the intake. I guess those carbs have annular boosters and run extremely well when they are rebuilt properly. Pretty neat stuff,

Maybe they got tired of the side drafts and slapped on an auto intake from the car? The hard fuel line has proper colored and aged paint on it.


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Bruce, I think that was just thicker boards to strengthen the corners but I didn't take an extra close look at it.

Also didn't see if it had markings on the intake. I guess those carbs have annular boosters and run extremely well when they are rebuilt properly. Pretty neat stuff,

Maybe they got tired of the side drafts and slapped on an auto intake from the car? The hard fuel line has proper colored and aged paint on it.


If the motor box has been altered, that's a tell tale sign.

The intake is interesting though as the runners in the rear are taller and nothing like our intake which is a Ford intake. That in combination with the thermostat cover would suggest that it could be factory, if not then someone could have made a conversion kit? Also, as we've seen around here, some people are crafty and come up with neat stuff on their own.

People been swapping them over since they were invented much to Pete Brainard's dismay.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:10pm
Doesn't look altered.


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:16pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Doesn't look altered.


You at the Matterhorn already?


Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:23pm
Still torqued from last night.


Posted By: john b
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:27pm
My 70 H/M came with an Autolite 4100 C8AE AF. They are date coded on the tag and the casting date is on the lower casting. Mine has a date code of 8K11 or Nov 11, 1968. The castings were done in mass and the casting date of mine (5/2/67) is very common, the date on the tag is the date they were assembled. Many, like mine, were in inventory for a while before being shipped. The 4100 was used in performance applications with many being installed on 428 Police Interceptors. Many were sold to aftermarket companies like Holman Moody. A few early Shelby GT500s used them as well. That is consistent with it being on an marinized engine built by an aaftermarket company. Check your date codes and it will be good supporting evidence for the originality. I am using a Holly Marine carb on mine for safety and keeping the original on a shelf for decoration.


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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!



Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:31pm
Another possibility is that by then the YH's were discontinued or Ford decided to provide the induction on their industrial engines. That carb is very similar to the Autolite 2bbl originally on my HM. Like the article Zach referenced very easy to work on the top comes off and the main jets are located in the bottom of the bowel

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:49pm
I'll have to look at mine john and see if it has a date on it.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: April-14-2017 at 1:12pm
Nice boat.
On the tune-up, be sure and use spark plug wires with a 90 degree dizzy cap connector.
Also, I have the correct Interceptor paint mix.


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-25-2017 at 1:21pm
Here are some pics of the carb and intake for reference.






Did some buffing this weekend, as I put my hands and eyes on about every inch of the deck and hull the boat is in surprisingly good condition for it's age, there are not many scratches or gouges anywhere on the boat, all of the pieces are there and the seat bases are still original with the serial numbers stamped on them. Unfortunately the white gel has cracking throughout and from the boot stripe down the wetted surfaces have been painted or something has been applied to the gel, it's a mess and is going to be quite a job to remove. Anyhow we will save all that for another thread, just wanted to add a couple boat pics.




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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-25-2017 at 1:28pm
I suspect that someone slapped some resin on the hull from the waterline down. I'd go after it with a plastic scraper first, then maybe sandpaper.

Nice Subaru.


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-25-2017 at 1:39pm
The deck looks great. That looks like a Ford intake to me. Does it say EOZ 8426 B on the back? What's the writing on the thermostat housing say?


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: April-26-2017 at 4:32pm
Bruce, I will take a look next time I am in the boat.

Another question, the bilge is an oily mess and the motor could use a bath as well, before I start wrenching or changing fluids I wanted to clean up as best I could. Going to use rags to wipe/soak up as much of whats there as I can, thoughts on what works best, something I may have under the sink, to degrease / rinse after that?? Thanks

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: April-26-2017 at 5:10pm
Original formula aerosol Gunk will work on the engine , might need to use stiff cleaning brush on it too. The runoff will start on the bilge too. Dawn, hot water and a pressure washer will help out down there also

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-18-2022 at 2:44pm
Want to replace the cap and rotor, appears dist was converted to electronic ignition at some point.
Dist: Mallory Model YL, type 387 A, Dearborn engine part 6050 BB
Cap appears to be Sierra 18-5376, looking for any alternate part #'s, Mallory 9-29402 appears NLA, cannot find any local supplier so will need to buy online and all I can find is Sierra.

A bit lost on the correct rotor or even how to remove it, any ideas?







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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-18-2022 at 3:41pm
Check here you big lug. I think all Ford V8's YL are created equal but maybe Ken would know for sure -  Rotor should come off just by pulling it up like most others,check underneath to see if it's a Mallory E spark conversion,that rotor has a interrupter on it which Summit might have.

http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=mallory%20yl" rel="nofollow - http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=mallory%20yl
 



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-18-2022 at 3:43pm
IIRC they take the same Sierra kit.  Hurc that rotor off.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-18-2022 at 5:05pm
If you were to send me a PM with your address, i have "this friend" who'd send you a genuine Mallory cap and the rotor with the black plastic interrupter or shutter assembly for the price of ............well nothing Wink

He's got a "few" of them hanging around

Like Riley and Gary said, pull it hard with a little wiggle and it'll come off. They're a pretty tight fit and there's nowhere to pry due to the shutter wheel being built as an assembly with the rotor..

It's pretty much guaranteed that it won't take 1817 days either. Wink

it could be a Unilite module or an E Spark module under there. There the same except one was assembled by humans and the other by automated machines. 

One was double the price of the other too.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-18-2022 at 5:34pm
By the way Quinner, the best place to find that Mallory cap is on EBAY.

You look for OMC 982209 and they're around 20 bucks for a repackaged Mallory cap. (new old stock)
It's a closely guarded secret so don't tell anybody Wink

The rotor and shutter wheel assembly is a Mallory 335 for your distributor.

Usually around 20 bucks too.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-21-2022 at 7:04pm
There's a package on the way with a rotor and cap.

The USPS says it'll be there on Friday and the tracking number is in a PM.

That's quite a few days less than 1817 and counting Wink


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-21-2022 at 7:40pm
He's waiting for the mailman at the end of the street with his tool box ready Wink 






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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: December-02-2022 at 12:51pm
OK, thank you Ken, new parts in hand and toolbox ready!!

And so it resume's, renamed this thread to begin the journey of the full resto, quick recap on the anticipated path:

Been running the boat a bit, new plugs and fresh oil/filter, actually just did another change to flush out the years of crud, a dose of restore on the first change, marvel added for the second, first change turned black again relatively quickly, 2nd time seems to be the charm. Next on the list is to complete the tune-up, ordered a new set of MSD plug wires, one completed end only so I can custom fit at the cap as needed, (2) 90's in this config. Another have not done that in ages on making my own set, should be fun, also got some cylinder markers to include now that I have all that documented. Plan on doing cap/rotor wires once new wires are received, the wires there now are rough, by all appearances may be original, so all in hopefully should get her running like a top :). BTW, my carb rebuild appears to be a great success, after adjusting the idle screws a bit she runs and starts great, once warm fires straight up!! Do need to add an inline filter as none exist, on my list as well.

Want to get as much run time in as possible and then off to the Barn for the winter rehab:
On the motor, degreased and pressure washed the motor and bilge, it was a huge oily mess, much better now. She appears to have some compromised gaskets and possible oil leaks, going to do a compression test and see what we find also. From there will be pulling the motor, how much we do will be dependent on the PSI results, for now just Planning on gaskets as needed, clean and paint, that could certainly change. The 312 does appear to have some blow by, so who knows.

On the interior, all wood structures although in good condition, do need some love, that will all get addressed, may also raise the base heights in that process and redo the serial number stampings as applies. All vinyl and flooring will be replaced as that is all toast. Dash to get new gauges as needed, want to add an hr meter, be it in dash or doghouse, TBD.

On the Hull, I removed all that hull side waterline resin already, so hull and deck just need to be sanded/polished back to their former glory, do have a good start on all that. The bottom is another story, also had resin added, it's a mess. My plan for that is to sand as needed for paint ready, going to paint the bottom like Reid's 62' Classic to hide all that, Turquoise to match the top deck, bottom and up the sides to meet the boot stripe. think that is going to be a really great look and I am excited to add more color as well. also on the look out for the missing vent windows, if anyone happens upon any for sale plz let me know. Also like to add a platform (blasphemy I know) but that is way down the list unless I happen upon one for cheap.

On the Trailer, trailer it came with was junk and non-original, Thank you Bruce for donating the new to me #2 trailer and Cousin Donald for the assist in getting the poor old Barracuda hull off the trailer at the dump, it was a sad site to watch that D6 crush that hull to smithereens. #2 will get some attention once all the boat work is completed, for now it works.

All that said, need to re-educate myself on the adding photo's thing, be calling Gary for an assist on that!



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt


Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-04-2022 at 8:08am
Great to see a post about an old Correct Craft coming back to life.  Our 312 had blow by which was resolved by changing the PCV valve. I used the same one that the PCM Fords take.  That boat will look great with a turquoise bottom. I think that trailer is a #3, at least that's what PO told me. I've only seen it in pictures.  

Marty Mabe has been a good source for vent window parts.



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