1984 sn2001 cuts out at higher RPM? Help!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=37076
Printed Date: May-17-2024 at 1:30pm
Topic: 1984 sn2001 cuts out at higher RPM? Help!
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Subject: 1984 sn2001 cuts out at higher RPM? Help!
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 2:02pm
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Guys, Hello....new to the forum as I just picked up my first Ski Nautique. Its a 1984 sn2001 with a 351 with a 1000hrs on it. I test drove it quickly before I bought it but obviously not enough. The engine runs great - starts with a quick turn of the key, idles great and has great power out of the hole. It will run up to 4400 RPM without a problem. AWESOME! However if I go above 2200 RPM for more then 2minutes (trying to pull a tube for instance) it starts to cut out. It bogs down, no backfiring drops a few hundred RPM and then will catch again....if I pull it down to an idle then I can take back off again without problem. Then the issue will reoccur. It seems to be fuel related because the higher the RPM the shorter it last without an issue. So I pulled Fuel/Water separator out and replaced cartridge with a new one. checked the vent tube from gas tank and it's clear. I also have the old mercruiser style fuel pump, the one with the filter on the bottom of it - when I pulled it open there was only a spring in there with 'junk/rust' at the bottom. not sure if someone pulled it or it disintegrated over time??? Anyway I replaced it with a new one. Also the strainer going into the carb was clear of debris. Also the boat has electronic conversion on it so there are no points, cap and rotor look to be in good shape. Any thoughts or where to start. I'm guessing this is still fuel related (pump?/clog on intake tube in gas tank/ or Carb? (has the 4160 holly) OR spark related (maybe coil?) Kid's can't wait to learn to ski ----- Please advise! Thanks for your thoughts in advance...... ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Replies:
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:00pm
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Good to hear your kids want to ski, getting rare these days! You might want to check the anti-siphon valve for clogs. It is a 90 deg fitting on top of the fuel tank. It's purpose is to prevent gas from filling the bilge in the event of a gas line rupture. It is just a spring check valve. You also might want to get an inline spark tester if you think that the ignition is the problem cause (not my bet). ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 8:17pm
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so yesterday I did take the black hose off of that connector and made sure I could blow through the black hose. Is the checkvalve in the 90degree part attached to the tank? I was able to push a small wire through it? it felt like it was a little stuck at first? not sure I'm in the right area? thanks for the help. ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:11pm
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Yep, that's it. Have you tried it since you cleaned it? Another diagnostic approach is to feed the fuel pump from a separate gas can to test. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:45pm
You bought a boat designed for skiing and you are pulling tubes???  Welcome to CCfan, Dump the tubes. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
SN2001_1984 wrote:Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-16-2015 at 11:48pm
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Thanks SN....I plan to put it in the water in the next couple nights to test again. I"ll report back. 8122 - gotta keep those kids happy - the good thing is that they are excited to learn to ski and wakeboard so its not a total loss :) ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 7:49am
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=14181&title=get-the-kids-out-on-the-water" rel="nofollow - Get the kids out on the water  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Toertel
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 10:14am
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had sames symptom in my EFI (so this might not help, but don't know your setup). Cap and Rotor were shot. new cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs and coil and now she runs like a champ again ------------- 1994 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 10:44am
| SN20011984 - There are some real pros on here that can help. Take a picture of your engine and post it. I was having the same type symptoms in my 1991 and thought is was fuel. Turned out to be something else once guys on here saw what type of ignition system I had. The knowledge on here is amazing. Welcome to the club. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 11:09am
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I will post some pics when I get home tonight. For now the motor is a 351 PCM with electronic conversion [rotor and cap look to be in good shape] original coil with the resistor bypass. Not sure how old the conversion kit is, just seems like its fuel since I can almost predict when its going to happen?? ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: Toertel
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 12:14pm
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did you take the cap off and look at the contacts? ------------- 1994 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 12:17pm
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Yes cap and rotor contacts appear to be in good shape. ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 12:21pm
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I'm planning on putting in the water again tonight..... what things should I be testing while in the water? [its a good 2hours by the time drive to lake/unload/test/load, so i would like to try as much as possible?] I plan to :: 1. test fuel vent [remove gas cap if needed to verify] 2. test coil voltage to distributor to be sure the isn't any voltage drop. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, but might be a good idea to pick up some flexible fuel line and barb connectors and put a gauge before carb...? any other diagnostic tests I can perform while its in the water that you guys can think of? ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:02pm
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I don't have the feeling you cleaned the AS valve sufficiently yet. There could also be a cone screen in the dip tube that would clog first. Disassemble the entire dip tube assembly. A gauge would tell you its loosing fuel. We sort of already know that. To truly conclude diagnostics, one would need to place a vacuum gauge at the gazzinta and a pressure gauge at the gazzouta of the pump. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:33pm
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When I disassembled the AS tube yesterday - I was able to blow the hose out the back of the boat. Then I took a small diameter steel flexible wire and pushed it down the 90degree connector on the tank and felt some resistance and was then able to push it down. Is there a different procedure to make sure this is clean/free/lubed? Am I correct that is it still happens when running tonight that I can just undo the gas cap quickly [i know be careful of water entering] to test the AS valve system to eliminate that as a variable? oh yeah --- and I did pull the dip tube [fuel feed] assembly out - no screen on the bottom of it and I was able to blow through it as well. ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:50pm
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You need to take it off and look through it. It's a spring loaded check valve, sticking a wire through it won't tell you if its partially clogged. No idea where you came up with the gas cap idea. Don't do that. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:52pm
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I thought when i looked at it last night the 90degree piece is aluminum and welded to the tank???? ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:54pm
Pics of engine for those interested.......   ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 1:57pm
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TRbenj -- I may be confused....is the check valve assembly inside the 'vent tube pickup' on the drivers side of the tank. OR is it in the 'fuel pickup' in the center of the tank?? thanks for your help! ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 2:27pm
| SN2001_1984 - The anti siphon valve is in the fuel pick up in the center of the tank. It should be hooked to the end of your fuel line. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 2:29pm
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perfect, thanks for the clarification 91naughtyQ - I do need to disassemble that completely tonight and check to make sure its clear. thank you! ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 2:31pm
Here is a pic of an aluminium one on some type of boat,it's what the hose is connecte to. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 2:36pm
| Not really. If it is like most you can unscrew it from the 90 degree elbow and check it. I just did this when I was troubleshooting my problem. Once you get to it, it should be springy and move freely. If it is jammed up you will know it. |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 2:38pm
| Sorry I misread your post. Yeah take a look at it for sure. I thought you were asking if you needed to disassemble it. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 6:38pm
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So, Apparently there is not AS valve on my set up. Removed fuel feed tube and 90 degree elbow and there is no valve in it at all??? Guess that variable is ruled out :) Fuel feed tube assembly ::    Vent tube::  taking it out tongiht but not even sure what to do next.....????? Any ideas? Could it be fuel pump? What are the votes fuel vs electronic? ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 8:45pm
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Denny, Don't rule out an ignition problem. You mentioned the engine has a EI conversion in the distributor. Some brands are known problems although they typically quite all together. For the fuel pump, you can "T" in a pressure gauge to check it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-17-2015 at 8:55pm
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Ok, out on water and back .....the wife drove while I observed. I have only 6.8v coming from coil at idle. When at 3000 rpm I have 9.5volts. Seems odd to me. Also I'm pretty sure secondaries on carb are not opening at all....looks like a carb rebuild as they only opened if I opened them mannually. Thoughts? ??? ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 10:27am
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Secondaries won't open until the engine demands call for it at speed and underway. 3K RPM definitely won't open them. They're designed to not open until somewhere around 40MPH or WOT. Whichever comes first. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 10:40am
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Ok thanks backfoot100. What about the coil readings....anyone with advise on those? " I have only 6.8v coming from coil at idle. When at 3000 rpm I have 9.5volts. Seems odd to me" at this point - it seems like a coil or fuel pump??? ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 11:11am
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Check coil V at + side of coil. If you have resistor bypassed it should read same V as alternator output, or close to it.. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 12:18pm
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With electronic ignition you bypass the ballast resistor. You should be getting 12v at the coil. sort of sounds like water in the gas but that issue has been ruled out at the filter. I would drain the bowls on carb. Also almost sounds like float issue. when you are trouble shooting do not stop when you find one issue. most of the time there will be more than one. When buying used boat i am an advocate of making everything new. Spark plugs, wires, carb. rebuild. cap rotor etc. Verify that the distributor is advancing properly. These are pretty simple engines so you should be able to find the problem. \ also do NOT use teflon tape on fuel fitting threads. if they are brass on brass they do not need anything as long as threads are clean. Permatex makes a fuel proof thread sealer so use that if you must. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 4:57pm
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Thanks Shierh. I just talked with vince at skidim and he suggests a fuel pressure test and alternate fuel tank as was already mentioned. I plan to do that next. Phase two would be the carb at this point. ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 5:01pm
Vince is the man. Good advice. Fuel can test is easy. I just had a piece of clear hose that I slid into the line (pretty tight fit but don't know the exact size) going to the fuel pump and clamped it down. Stuck that straight into the gas can and tested. If fuel pump is bad, you will know it. If it runs good, fuel pump is good. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 5:18pm
Depends on the ignition. The mallory in my '89 requires the resistor. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 5:24pm
| The Prestolite in my 88 also requires a resistor. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 5:34pm
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Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 5:37pm
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What install instructions? That's the way it came in 2001, with a Blaster 2 coil (0.7 ohm) Finally got the boat at home (thanks to Frankenotter and skutsch). There are some things under the hood I would like to go over. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 6:38pm
| I'm 95% certain the Prestolite kit specifies the bypassing of the resistor. SkiDIM could confirm. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 6:50pm
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I just looked at my pictures. There are some hidden splices but I have purple in and out of the ballast resistor. Purple leaving the + coil. Purple going into the distributor. I have to assume the coil-distributor purple wires are spliced together. AND, back in 2002 the boat shut off on a rough day. Crank crank crank but no start. Took it to a mechanic. Got a bill for a new ballast resistor. SO, I believe my ballast resistor is still in play with the Prestolite EI conversion. 0.7 ohm from the coil alone doesn't seem to be enough to the distributor. Usually looking for 1.5 ohm total on the EI conversions and 3 ohms for original points setup. If the stock coil was kept, sure bypass the resistor. But, since the stock coil was replaced with the BlasterII, that has less resistance, a ballast was still required. |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 7:02pm
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Skidim's website says you don't need it with a blaster II but the pertronix instructions say you need it with less than 1.5 in the coil. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/pnx-1281.pdf" rel="nofollow - instructions Probably safer to just leave it. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 7:51pm
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Probably why you guys fry EI conversions, too much current. Pretty sure SNobsessed has same hook up as me. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 8:09pm
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Sorry HW, do have Prestolite with MSD epoxy filled (forget if that is same as B2), but have resistor bypassed - did that per advice '(sort of) from good 'ol 79 Nautique. Haven't had any problems in the 400 hours since. Plugs stay very clean. The way 79 'splained it was that the EI circuit would limit coil current at the low RPM (which is why you need a resistor when using points). Without the resistor, you get higher volts at high RPM when you really need it. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 8:24pm
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I have an oil filled coil, but they are both 0.7 ohm. So you used to run the resistor (prestolite & blaster) and later bypassed it? Any change in performance? |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 8:35pm
Yes, at 1st used the resistor. Performance is hard to nail down when you have more power than you actually use  . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-18-2015 at 8:55pm
| hollywood is right. |
Posted By: Kc 85
Date Posted: August-19-2015 at 12:56pm
| i had that exact problem with my 79 SN. The back flow was clogged up with debree etc. I cleaned it out and was running awesome! Hope all goes well. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-19-2015 at 1:00pm
| what is a back flow? |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-19-2015 at 1:28pm
+1 Got one on in the 88' and has been for at least 10 years. on the 2nd coil since I started using EI. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 11:40am
Eh, I'm not going to take his word on all EI modules. These manufacturers seem to be pretty specific about what resistance they want. SkiDIM currently sells the Pertronix Ignitor II, which in their product description does state to bypass the resistor. Pertronix Ignitor II instructions agree. 6. The Ignitor II ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.45 ohms or greater. 7. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor II ignition system. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91141.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91141.pdf HOWEVER, some of you may have had the Ignitor I, which DOES state a minimum resistance. Pertronix Iginitor (the first edition) installation instructions: 4. Four and six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance and eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of primary resistance. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is less than specified. 5. If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors. http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/1141.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/1141.pdf Hot-Spark: Coil Warning: DO NOT use a low-resistance or an HEI-style coil. 4- and 6-cylinder: Use a coil that has resistance in the primary circuit of at least 3.0 Ohms (Ω). 8-Cylinder: Must be used with a coil that has resistance in the primary circuit of at least 1.5 Ω. Using a coil with insufficient primary resistance can cause the ignition module to overheat and misfire until it cools down again, or fail prematurely, which will void the Hot-Spark ignition warranty. http://www.hot-spark.com/Coil.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.hot-spark.com/Coil.htm Mallory: NOTE: The purpose of resistance wire between the ignition switch (12V) and the ignition coil positive terminal is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil. Failure to use resistance wire will eventually destroy the Ignition Module. http://prestoliteperformance.com/media/instructions/mallory/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://prestoliteperformance.com/media/instructions/mallory/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf All that said, know what kit you have and what they want. Seems as though Pertronix Ignitor II is the only one that is safe to bypass the resistor no matter what coil you are using. And now I think most of you burnt up your EI modules on your own. SNobsessed, if I were you I'd wire back in the resistor. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 8:33pm
I'm curious too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-20-2015 at 11:48pm
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HW, will do, all it takes is to swicth the terminal Not that I don't believe you, but wanted to read it myself. Haven't yet found any documentation on the old Prestolite EI but did find this post from TRBenj on (gasp) the mastercraft forum: In my experience, the Prestolite/PCM kit usually has you bypass the resistor, while Pertronix kits will vary. It is also important to match the coil to the module. Again, I recommend that anyone installing EI follow the instructions in their specific kit. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 7:33am
Anti siphon? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 1:41pm
| I'd really like to see (and dispute) the original Prestolite instructions with the blanket statement of "bypass the resistor" with no mention of coil resistance. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 2:03pm
| Call SkiDIM, they sold a million of those Prestolite/PCM conversions. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 4:29pm
| And as a result we've heard of plenty of failures due to [a lack of] poor instructions and understanding. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 4:31pm
| Back on topic, to the OP, 79 says check your float level. He thinks you're simply running out of fuel in the bowls. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 4:33pm
| Not having seen the exact instructions in a number of years, I would not be so quick to blame any perceived failure rate (be it normal or accelerated) on poor documentation. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 4:38pm
Will I need a rebuild kit in order to check float levels? Update:: I ran it with the fuel supply system bypassed last night in the driveway. I put a line directly from fuel pump into a 5 gallon gas can. Was able to run at 3000 rpm for a good 5 min or so with no issues. Also plummed in a fuel pressure gauge and was right a 5psi the whole time so it's not the pump! I plan to remove all gas from tank tonight, replace fuel lines and take it back out. Maybe I should pick up a rebuild kit for the holley on the way home as well...... Really hope to use her in the lake this weekend!! Thanks guys ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 5:12pm
| Sounds like you've isolated where the problem is. Carb sounds fine. Good luck. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 5:17pm
Yea well whatever, show me the instructions. If they are indeed correct fine. Either way, wouldn't be surprised if people still screwed up the installation. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 5:29pm
|
Wouldn't surprise me either. If you want the actual instructions, call SkiDIM! I never installed one, not sure if I ever saw the instructions with my own eyes... Though I did have a few conversations with Vince regarding general PCM wiring (not specific to EI), it's been 10 years since I created that diagram/picture. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 5:43pm
| I want to see the document, not talk to someone on the phone about it. Does he have the Prestolite instructions filed away with the Dead Sea Scrolls? |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 5:59pm
|
No the Dead Sea scrolls have been found. I think they were stored in the Amber Room. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 6:20pm
| Obama's birth certificate |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 6:24pm
| He can probably fax it to you- they've sent me diagrams in the past. Or maybe they can email it now. You can try communicating with them telepathically, but it's probably quicker to call. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 8:01pm
| Great! Let me know when you get it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 8:42pm
Tim, Fax or email, when you do get it in, make sure you post it. Also create a link in the FAQ thread. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-21-2015 at 11:49pm
|
I'll cal Vince next week, as I can't stand this threadjacking cliffhanger! Not going to post copyrighted material though. I did look at the install data on the blaster 2 coil & it says to use resistor for 'points or amplifier circuit'. I bet I got away with it for 400 hours because we never run more than a few hours at a time, & temps here are rarely above 90F. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-22-2015 at 11:46am
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Chris, the Prestolite may be like the Pertronix Ignitor II in which it doesn't require a minimum resistance, but I suspect it does. No harm in scanning and posting copywrited material. |
Posted By: SN2001_1984
Date Posted: August-22-2015 at 10:18pm
|
UPDATE :: The nautique was on the lake today and runs AMAZING - thanks to all your help everyone! I pulled the gas tank out last night and emptied it, a lot of 'junk' in the bottom of it. Bought new gas line at the marina today. Got home and decided to remove the 90degree fitting at the top of the pickup tube (as seen in pic in earlier post). The fitting had a screen below it and it was PACKED with leaves and debris. Cleaned it out, new fuel lines installed and fresh gas in a clean tank.... ALL IS WELL! Boat runs GREAT.....I love these things!!! Thanks again! ------------- 1984 Ski Nautique 2001 :: 351 Original factory ordered color combo from Silver Spray Sports: Fenton MI |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-27-2015 at 2:19pm
|
Called Vince. FYI, Vince was great, spent >5 minutes on the phone with me, reading off the Prestolite EI Installation instructions & helping me interpret them, all with no sale in sight. Presotite recommended a coil with 1-2.5 ohms primary resistance & no ballast resistor in circuit. According to Vince, most Prestolite EI module failures happen when guys put Accel or blaster coils with it He said if my coil wasn't getting hot, it is OK as is (without resistor). Just for kicks, I might use my IR thermometer & check coil both ways. Hope this helps everyone! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-27-2015 at 2:25pm
|
Glad the instructions address resistance. So even though you know you're below 1 you're relatively safe until things start to heat up. What exactly is "hot"? Coil temperature is an odd way of monitoring the module, just wire it right and don't unnecessarily damage anything. These aftermarket coils can take the heat, the modules can't. Know your coil resistance! |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: August-27-2015 at 3:36pm
| In a ski boat I'll take reliability over maximum performance any day. Excessive current and heat will eventually kill electronic components. |