1978 CC Ski Nautique Engine Type & Mystery Box?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35126
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 9:39am
Topic: 1978 CC Ski Nautique Engine Type & Mystery Box?
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Subject: 1978 CC Ski Nautique Engine Type & Mystery Box?
Date Posted: December-08-2014 at 10:54pm
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Two Questions: Motor Type and What is this metal box? I have a 1978 Correct Craft Ski Nautique. My Engine Motor # is CM56127R yet I am not sure exactly what model engine that is does anyone know? My mechanic said it's a Crusader model, I can't seem to find anything online. The Outdrive # is 1560 not sure what that is? Any engine experts out there know what model motor I have? The reason I need to know is 1. I sound like an idiot not knowing. and #2 see this picture I am trying to figure out if this little metal box might be affecting my engine from starting. The boat ran fine all year and recently my mechanic changed up the wiring. The boat worked fine for a while but I had a battery issue that was causing problems starting. Now after another mechanic visit my mechanic has advised me to look into this box and try and replace as it might be part of the reason the engine isn't turning over. See link to the pic. It's a small metal box and it doesn't look very old compared to some of the other items on my engine. It has "5MC" stamped on the back but no other part #'s or ID. Metal box from a distance  close up:   ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-08-2014 at 11:03pm
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Voltage regulator. Better pics of the engine would be helpful. The id # is unlikely to help. Exhaust manifolds and paint color make Commander a good guess with nothing else to go on. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-08-2014 at 11:03pm
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Lisa? is that you? ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:00am
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Thank you Grand Poobah! @ Baitkiller I am not Lisa so no it's not me. The last time I took the boat I barely got it started at the boat launch. After a few jumps I got it started and was afraid to turn off the engine so we ran around for about 30-40 minutes. I shut the boat down and BARELY got it to start a second time. I decided to leave the engine on and drive around for 20 more minutes, at idle the engine finally quit and the battery was flat out dead so no luck starting again. I assumed it might be the alternator. I yanked the alternator and had it tested, it passed. Auto Zone tested my battery which was less than a year old and gave me a free replacement they said it was basically dead so I thought the new battery would fix the problem. New battery and functional alternator I couldn't get the boat to start at all now. It was starting immediately before I started having this electrical issue as my mechanic re-wired the ignition and cleaned up some of the wiring it was starting like a champ. My mechanic thinks it's this voltage regulator box, he told me to look into fixing this and see if that does it b/c the coil isn't showing anything north of 7-8V and it looks like it pulls from that box so that's where my mechanic said I should check, either that or maybe a bad coil but my coil is brand new and my brother insists that coils don't just go bad in their first few months usually. I am going to try and get a voltage regulator from Auto Parts store and see if that works. Thanks so much for the reply. This forum is awesome. I hope to give back as I learn more. Sincerely, BOAT- BUST OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND!!!!!!!!!!! ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:37am
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Dan, I hate to say this but I feel you need to find another mechanic! He "thinks" it's the voltage regulator! He told YOU to check it? Ether a problem with the voltage regulator or ignition coil are pretty basic to diagnose. When you say the boat won't start, it sounds like the engine won't turn over correct? But then you mention a "coil" which would affect the engine actually firing. Can you fill us in with more info? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 1:41am
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haha yeah @8122pbrainard I think my mechanic is more sick of me than the boat itself. I was a little trigger shy on posting as I was worried I might not be clear enough. The engine will not start up, the starter is going and it's trying to start but no ignition whatsoever. We have brand new battery. Will post a video of this tomorrow... It's the same sound an engine makes when it's not getting any fuel but we know its getting fuel so I think it's the spark/electrical type problem.... Alternator, starter are fine, brand new battery. We recently put in a new ignition switch and did some re-wiring as the key switch was not wired correctly. He made some wiring adjustments and changes that I am not 100% up to speed on but I was told to do a voltage check on this voltage regulator and report back in. That would explain why the voltage at the coil is sub 10V right? Maybe the regulator is t*ts up? Thanks for your patience on all of this, I sell software and airplanes, don't know squat about boats. However I'm stoked to learn more and I am learning! Thanks again for all of your comments. This forum is awesome. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: NautiqueNut
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 4:55am
Baitkiller , You could eat off of my engine after my real mechanic reworked my PCM ford 351 to original  \I will say that its a Crusader engine and 1:1 velvet drive in the picture I see. Boat and engine need some attention I would say, but to each his own.  ------------- It was not to late for my 78 !978 Ski Nautique |
baitkiller wrote:Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:00am
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Your coil is getting less than 10v because there's a resistor ahead of it punching it down as the coil doesn't like a good 13.6. I agree with Pete, find a new mechanic! Voltage regulators usually don't go bad.... Come to think of it , I've never replaced one and all the ones I've ever seen or had were all original. If your "mechanic" straightened out the ignition wiring, I'd strongly suspect that to be the problem. Dumb question, you don't have a safety kill switch do you? Or perhaps a hole where there was one say around the throttle? And I'd lean towards Commander on engine. Wasn't Crusader a lighter blue and the glimpse of that manifold elbow sure looks like a Commander log. |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 11:12am
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Get a new "mechanic" x3 ------------- |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:16pm
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I'll make note on the mechanic. If anyone knows a good mechanic in Austin TX where I can get some help with this boat let me know. Also regarding my engine and condition of the boat (I will post more pics) I scored this boat from a friend that let it sit outside and stopped caring for it and it didn't move for 4-5 years sitting outside uncovered. I've been restoring it slowly, I am going to publish a library of pics b/c I have some questions about the hull and other projects I'd like to take on. Thanks for the tips on the coil and the resistor, etc. I need to get out a paper and trace this out and follow a few wires and get some better answers. I have also heard the voltage regulators don't go bad as I've seen the inside of them and it doesn't look like anything that would go bad easily. I will look for a safety kill switch. I don't have one that I know of but might be a nice thing to have come to think of it! Will do some investigating today and report back with some pics. I would buy all of you a beer if I could for the advice. thanks so much. We need an online beer thing on here where u can automatically give the guy with the best tips a beer? cheers y'all. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: NautiqueNut
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:38pm
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WheelsUpATX Sorry fellas, I was mistaking . That is most likely a Commander as in 1978 Correct Craft offered the PCM Ford and the Commander Ford. I was dreaming in my sleep last night. Also the box is the voltage regulator. When I bought my 1978 in 2012 before it was restored, the main issue was that the wire harness in the boat had fried the voltage regulator and the alternator. According to my mechanic once the correct wiring was done to the original diagram, and the shorted out and spliced wires were replaced. Bingo, Motor fired up on the second crank, and all systems were go! The wiring in a boat that old is a big and costly issue if it had not been maintained. Lisa------------- It was not to late for my 78 !978 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:49pm
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Okay I'll look into that as well. The wiring harness was also modified and changed up. I am going to get the voltage regulator as I think I can get that at a auto parts store rather easily. My brother sent me this link does this resonate with anyone? %20" rel="nofollow - http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/ford02.html ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 12:54pm
Since the boat has been sitting for all those years, did your "mechanic" use the point file on the point set? How is he checking for spark? Regarding the battery, hopefully it's not a deep cycle and a starting type. You never know what those Autozone guys will give/sell you! Find another auto supply! BTW, check out the FAQ thread in the maintenance section. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 1:24pm
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The boat ran all summer and it was sparking fine, I am pretty sure he used the point file on the point set. Engine was great up until this recent electrical problem. I know its a marine battery but I agree on the auto parts guys. Will double check and I'm going to check out the FAQ section on maint. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 1:59pm
Marine batteries come in starting, deep cycle and combination forms so do check what you ended up with. The only thing a marine battery gives you these days is the threaded studs besides the lugs. Many here run regular automotive batteries without issues. I do! Save a few $$. There's some threads on the subject. If the battery does turn out to be a deep cycle, save it for your trolling motor. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 3:04pm
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The battery is Duralast Marine- Starting and Deep Cycle - however it doesn't have any other ID on it. It also doesn't have the cranking amps listed. When they gave it to me there was some uncertainty but based on what you are telling me I think battery is ok. Engine is CM1-90-930 Commander? Here's a link to some pics. http://imgur.com/a/YGiSp I can't seem to get the link to work in this forum I guess you have to copy paste? Having trouble with the links, ahh this is better...     ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 3:58pm
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Okay I think I'm incorrect about the motor as that's all the drive train #'s. Can't seem to find numbers on the block... ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 3:59pm
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Dan, http://imgur.com/a/YGiSp" rel="nofollow - Here's your link. For direct linking on CCfan, go to "post reply" and not the "quick reply". Click on the world icon with the up arrow. The first box is your description of the link and the second is where you paste the address. The combination battery you have will work but it is a compromise and may die early. Yup, don't go to Autozone!  We, including myself have interesting stories about the place!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 4:05pm
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Thanks for the tips! Both of them! The battery did finally die and it definitely died early. My main concern is getting the boat started again so we'll work with that and then I will get a different battery. thanks for all the help! ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 4:07pm
Is this the right way to identify the engine #? Seems as if my starter is blocking my view and I would need to disconnect to identify my engine here..  ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 5:09pm
| The casting number of the block won't tell us anything- it's obviously a 351w. Post a pic of the front of the engine so we can see the thermostat housing, accessories, plumbing,etc... But based on that case piece it seems my early guess of it being a Commander is correct. What else are you trying to determine? |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:14pm
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I can't get the engine to start. It will not turn over, it's not getting spark. Recently my mechanic came by to winterize and did some trouble shooting and told me it's most likely the little box he thinks might be bad. So I just purchased a new voltage regulator today and no luck, nothing is different. The battery is good and new and it seems like the coil isn't getting the power it needs from what I've gathered. My mechanic said it's most likely the coil or the voltage regulator. I just replaced the voltage regulator and nothing. The only thing that's changed along this process is the alternator was taken off for testing and put back on. My alternator only had two wires going in and out of it which another friend pointed out was strange. I think the heart of the matter ties into this post earlier. "When I bought my 1978 in 2012 before it was restored, the main issue was that the wire harness in the boat had fried the voltage regulator and the alternator. According to my mechanic once the correct wiring was done to the original diagram, and the shorted out and spliced wires were replaced. Bingo, Motor fired up on the second crank, and all systems were go! The wiring in a boat that old is a big and costly issue if it had not been maintained" I think the best strategy moving forward will be to start wire by wire and map it all out and make sure it's in line with the manual. Or maybe take it to a local shop since I've lost faith in the mechanic that I basically spent upwards of $2500 getting me up to this point. I found a local shop that I didn't know about where all they do is boats. I have exceeded my budget so I was hoping to take matters into my own hands more as $$ is a concern. I feel like I really need to troubleshoot battery, keyswitch, alternator, solenoid, voltage regulator and coil wiring to make sure it's all in check. voltage check at the coil was low 6-7. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:18pm
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You're going to have a hard time getting appropriate answers using incorrect terminology. turn over = rotate under the starter's power This happens with or without spark at the plugs. ------------- |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:23pm
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Thanks Hollywood. It's turning over for sure. It ain't getting no spark. I appreciate the correction. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:31pm
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If you are half way handy and half way intelligent, you need a wiring diagram and a multimeter (an a little bit of assistance from us). You don't need to know anything more about your engine in order to troubleshoot- they were all wired pretty much the same from that time period. Accurate descriptions of what you're experiencing like HW mentioned will help too! I created a pictorial schematic of sorts that will help you get started... It's been reposted at least a dozen times- any search for "wiring" or "schematic" should turn it up in short order. You'll have to supply the multimeter and the common sense.
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Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 6:40pm
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Sounds good. I got the multimeter and a six pack I think I can figure it out. Thanks again for all the help. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 7:59pm
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Dan, I know I asked about the point set in the distributor but it just occurred to me you may have a EI (electronic) module in the distributor and not a point set. If so, has it been checked and how? You said the coil is getting power correct?
Again, how are you (or your "mechanic") checking for spark? We need better input from you. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 9:07pm
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You could remove the cap and take a picture and post it. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2014 at 9:48pm
Thanks Gary. I forgot to ask Dan for a picture! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NautiqueNut
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 12:20am
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DAN, The wire diagram you need is TRBenj: Fast find it under (1980 Ski Nautique wiring diagram, Correct Craft Fan.com) This was posted by Pbrainard, 4/19/2007. I found this for my mechanic two years ago and he said it was excellent. Thanks TRBenj  /Pbrainard. Please note: They used a 4 wire alternator on the PCM ford not sure what is on yours. You said 2 wire, is there now so as you said things may have changed, I had my 4 wire rebuilt to original. So the diagram was good for us. Also I was told that some alternator replacement's are 2,3, wire etc. making it more confusing and can be (internal and or external) voltage regulated. Also I found out as the process for me progressed that (Tined wire is used not stuff bought at Home Depo).Buy this at any Marine store. Also wire gage is important and not covered in the diagram and international color code has changed over the years. Home wiring and boat wiring are also different as night and day. I feel your boat engine wiring looks pretty original and if you check all the wire's you can visually for breaks and bad connections things will turn around for you on this. I did see a few wires in the picture that seemed to be questionable the one 8" from the alternator for one . This splice is what my boat was full of. One more thing, In the old days they used Amp meters in the dash, vs: Volt meter's. This is also very important to look at the way its wired, as they are very different in how it is wired. I was told all this by my mechanic who did my 1978. ------------- It was not to late for my 78 !978 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 2:54am
Perfect. I did see the diagram earlier and I'm printing this stuff out to go figure it all out and do some troubleshooting. It's tough b/c I enjoy taking the boat out and want to take advantage of the season but im also tempted to just store it and start re-doing the wiring so it's on point. Update on this problem... My mechanic and I have been in communication. He thinks that my voltage regulator was fried and it might have damaged the coil and he is pretty confident that it's the coil. He was troubleshooting with the multimeter on this last visit and we left it at the problem being in either the voltage regulator and or coil as we have no reason to think it could be elsewhere but I shouldn't say we b/c he knows more about this than I do (so far!). i have a new voltage regulator already installed and will get a coil tomorrow. While this might or might not work I would like to re-wire everything anyway and go through it all. My mechanic had told me before it's a mess and makes sense to streamline and re-wire but he seemed to have the boat running good until I started losing the battery so I need to investigate where this was coming from. It's possible that some of the problems we were shooting over the last few months wore down my battery as I didn't always charge it as long as I might have should? Or maybe we've got an ongoing problem with the battery (maybe it's time to lose the auto zone battery)... Also make note the ceramic piece behind the voltage regulator was removed earlier in the season as I was told we don't need it or boat will be okay without it as it's pretty warm down here? I am going to swap the coil and see as we made some improvements to the electrical system that seemed to work fine until we had the impeller and batt problem. Granted it might not fix bigger problems like bad wiring but the boat was functioning great for a long while until a few different problems came up (impeller, battery problem and trouble starting) If the coil doesn't do it i'm not calling my mechanic any more. We went down several roads this summer with this boat and some might have been avoided with some more cautious awareness and more laser focused trouble shooting. Some mechanics work on fixing things temporarily or short term get it running fast and don't always diagnose the bigger picture. Anyway here's a couple pictures to give you idea of the grand rats nest of wiring I have.      back of alternator when I pulled it to test. these are the only wires that it has thus far since I took on the boat. It ran fine for several months with no problems or dead battery, I tested it at auto zone (not the best method) and it passed. This was a few days ago.  pic from the other day when we broke down. majorly let down mutts.  ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: NautiqueNut
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 4:47am
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THE CERAMIC PART (long white)at the rear of the engine by the regulator; If that is what your referring to, this is the Ballast Resistor. When you start your engine, by turning the key the Resistor is OUT OF THE CIRCUIT, this allows a full 12+ Volts to crank your engine. Once you take your hand off the key and the engine starts to run , the resistor takes over by dropping the volts to the points in the distributor, from lets say 12+ volts to 8.5 volts, this protects the mechanical points from burning up. Do you have Mechanical points? Most likely you do. You have a prestolite brand distributor from the pictures you present. If you do and you have a standard coil, you need the ballast resistor. Some coils have a internal resistor. All these parts must work in concert or the battery will not charge and the points will burn up, engine will not run, no spark etc. The diagram is for the old school way. Change's should be done by a person with a good understanding of these difference's. Had the same issue's with my 1978. ------------- It was not to late for my 78 !978 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 6:50am
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That wiring is "nasty" as soon as you get the boat running I would rewire totally. That wiring harness has many signs of high resistance joints causing excessive current loads and then subsequent heat damage. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 9:18am
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Dan, I totally agree with Mark above. You can actually see where butt splices are getting hot. Yes as mentioned, tinned wire and the best crimp on connectors are important. Getting bad to your "mechanic", has he been doing any testing or is he and yourself just throwing parts at the boat? The primary and secondary windings in a coil can be tested with the VOM! One again, how are you or your mechanic testing for spark? Is there an EI module in the distributor? Please read our questions. We are trying to help. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 1:48pm
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Wiring is nasty yes- I plan on re-wiring all of it. At least going through from start to finish and cleaning it all up. Yes I have mechanical points. There is no EI module. Mechanic was constantly using meter to check and troubleshoot electronics. At last visit the problem with the coil showing +6 or 7V mechanic said it's either the coil itself or the @NautiqueNut Change's should be done by a person with a good understanding of these difference's. Had the same issue's with my 1978. <0--- AGREED!! It sounds like I may have removed the ballast resistor? I was told a while back that ceramic piece was an electric choke and not needed. We are not just throwing parts on the boat by any means. All I have done thus far is replace the voltage regulator. If I am going to re-do all the wiring wouldn't it make sense to make the move to electronic ignition as well? Thank you guys again I apologize for lack of clarity in describing some of this.  ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 2:00pm
This makes me suspect your coil also... the ballast resistor keeps the coil from getting full line voltage during the run stage. Ohm out the coil and see what the readings are (primary and secondary) if either one is open or out of spec, it's time for a new one. I think the MSD blaster epoxy filled coils have been popular on here, but a search will turn up which model you need. the new coil may or may not need the ballast resistor, but that should be stated in the coil instructions from the MFG. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 4:31pm
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Dan, From the picture, it doesn't look like the point set has been changed in quite some time. It looks like corroded contacts and connections, misaligned contacts and I don't see any lube on the cam/rub block. You said your mechanic was using his VOM. Did you notice him checking to see if the point set contacts were actually closing? Is this the time he took the point file to them? I agree that removing the ballast resistor could have burnt up the coil. As mentioned, was the coils primary and secondary Ohm'd out? I have to ask what was the logic in removing the resistor? EI conversions are not my favorite. There are some good ones and plenty of bad ones. There's nothing wrong with a point set. If a conversion goes you are stuck in the middle of the lake unless you carry a spare. With a point set typically all that's needed is to clean up the contacts. Your wife's nail file or even a dollar bill pulled through them will get you going. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: WheelsUpATX
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 4:44pm
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I do recall him checking the point set contacts and verifying that they were closing. He didn't seem to point out that should be a factor. I am testing the coil here this afternoon to verify if primary and secondary are ohm'd out. I have never done that test so I'm watching a video as we speak. The logic in removing the resistor was that the wire had broken on it and the boat was running fine so I had multiple sources say that the boat would be fine if we removed it. It was running fine without it for quite a while but not long enough that I can rule it out. Good to know on EL conversions. I need to clean up the points and clean up the contacts as well when I take another stab at this. Also I want to make sure I get the right coil I need to research the forum further on that as well. Probably not an auto zone model I can score if I want to invest in the correct coil epoxy vs. oil... lots of items to master at this juncture and troubleshoot. I appreciate the help, I'll try and see what I can figure on the coil today. ------------- 1978 Correct Craft Twitter: WheelsupATX |
Posted By: NautiqueNut
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 5:58pm
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Dan, Here is how I see this. First checkout (Skidim); on the web for parts. Its called Discount Inboard Marine. Talk to Richard for parts, great man. This is the, and was the oldest dealer of Correct Crafts in the USA for years. You will pay a little more for a few of the parts you need but for $200.00 bucks you should be able to solve this problem. Buy the correct original , points ,condenser , and rotor. New "correct" prestolite original distributer cap, stuff comes in a kit. Get the ballist resistor, as they have everything you need and ship same Day to your door BAM !!!! Follow the diagram, fix bad splice work, and clean all connections by loosening and a light fine sanding. Like all you can see. Like you said earlier, starter did crank so it works. Starter relay is good, voltage regulator is good, Don't forget to get the correct Coil. Set your point gap, and get a Interstate Marine battery. Only question is the alternator witch you said sill was good but could be wired differently as it is a two wire, Take boat to an Auto Ignition place and 2hrs latter,they should be able to solve this, (if you cant). I went through this hole mess with my 1978 , 2 years ago. Lisa ------------- It was not to late for my 78 !978 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 6:43pm
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Based on the appearance of your wiring and the issues you're having, the cost of a new harness maybe justified. Skidim sells them. Agree on replacing the ballast resistor and cap/rotor/points/condenser as well. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-10-2014 at 7:43pm
I would be very careful with taking advice from your "multiple sources"! As mentioned, externally resisted coils need the nominal 8 volts.------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Todd Buchanan
Date Posted: December-14-2014 at 8:21pm
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Check to see if you have 12 volts at coil with the key in the on position. If yes, then shut off key, disconnect large power wire from switched side of main solenoid going to starter. Turn and hold key in the start position and test coil for 12 volts. If no, test post on solenoid with blue wire in above condition(starter disconnected and key in start position)which should read 12v. This provides 12v to coil when key is in start position. No power, no spark. The alt. Has been replaced and is probably an internally regulated auto style. Wiring in harness needs to be modified to make work. Richard, Vince and DIM team are the best source for info and parts, hands down. Let me know if this helps. Todd Buchanan 989-289-9240 ------------- 1979 SKI NAUTIQUE / 1985 SONIC 24SS TWIN OB |
Posted By: Todd Buchanan
Date Posted: December-14-2014 at 8:39pm
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After looking at pics closer the blue write leaving the solenoid is not connected to the positive side of the coil. Connect and This should create fire! Points need to be replaced and lube pad is a must if you run points. with no lube they will wear to inoperable in one ride EI is about $150 and eliminates point issues but needs proper setup. Stop going to that mechanic ------------- 1979 SKI NAUTIQUE / 1985 SONIC 24SS TWIN OB |