Poor Man's GT40 Diagnosis
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 10:50pm
Topic: Poor Man's GT40 Diagnosis
Posted By: Bri892001
Subject: Poor Man's GT40 Diagnosis
Date Posted: April-14-2012 at 6:42pm
|
My idea for this thread is to have a place to summarize common GT40 problems and their solutions. Each Problem-Fix combination will be one datapoint. That way, there is a running reference. This would not be so much a place to ask questions, but a place to post the fix and a link to the thread where the problem was resolved. My thinking is that the diagnosis for these motors is a little trickier, since they've moved beyond traditional tuning, but scan tools can be a little expensive and obscure as well. I'm going to attempt to update and re-post the following table as time goes on. I can also add/modify the problems and add new fixes as it becomes necessary. Just because a problem has a found fix once, doesn't mean not to post it again. I'm hoping to come up with a true data table, that will show the probability for each fix. Here is my blank slate: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - GT40 Spreadsheet on Google Docs |
Replies:
Posted By: harriss28
Date Posted: April-14-2012 at 8:53pm
|
There may be a way to get the codes without a scan tool using a test light or analog multimeter. One could also tie into the check engine light. Once wired to the check engine light on the dash, you could jump one wire and count the blinks of the check engine light. The is for EEC-IV Ford engines. Im not sure if it will work for our boats, but I will let you know if it works. http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/eectest.html Shawn |
Posted By: Foot_Fungus
Date Posted: April-20-2012 at 12:51pm
|
While I'm sure CC used a varied PCM tune, I highly doubt they reinvented the wheel with the components and sensors. You should be able to scan these in much the same way you would scan its automotive variant. That being said the gt-40 is a super common engine and has several forums dedicated to it that have thousands of problem/solution threads. The majority of issues you would have on the boat version are probably well covered and common in the automotive forums. All we'd need to do is gather that info and put it over here. To me pre obd-2 systems were always iffy on codes, I always had better luck finding someone with a related problem then breaking out the ohm meter to check the component that solved the problem. That being said I think you're table is a good idea, gives people a quick list of common issues/solutions to check. |
Posted By: east tx skier
Date Posted: April-20-2012 at 3:17pm
|
I'll play. Symptoms: Boat would start and idle fine. But when pulling up a skier, it would go about 10 yards and completely die. You'd wait about 15 seconds and it would restart, idle fine, and die on the hole shot. Solution: Replace antisiphon valve. Cost: $11 Labor time: About 20 minutes. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2383&sort=&pagenum=7&yrstart=1996&yrend=2000 - 1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-20-2012 at 4:08pm
Cool, thanks  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 12:14pm
|
EEC Relay Fixed Engine Loping as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24848&PN=1&title=gt40-engine-loping" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24848&PN=1&title=gt40-engine-loping Updated the Spreadsheet with Lewy's findings. |
Posted By: Bohinny
Date Posted: April-22-2012 at 4:27pm
|
Could we add part Numbers to the spreadsheet. Like for the eec relay. That is the same relay for the fuel pumps Right? ------------- Billy |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-23-2012 at 12:48pm
| Billy, I think Lewy from the above other thread would know the answer as to whether that's the same relay. But yeah, if we can get a part# posted, I'll definitely add that info to the spreadsheet. |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: April-24-2012 at 2:37am
|
Yes the fuel pump relay and EEC relay are the same. They are a Hella unit I have been trying to get my local Hella agent to source them. I dont think he is trying that hard a bit of Internet trolling came up with this pretty quick. The Hella part # is 4RD 960 388-31. The US Hella number is 87412. PCM part # is R130011 You can also purchase a ECHLIN equivalent at NAPA pt # AR174 for $10.97 Skidim also stocks them http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R130011" rel="nofollow - GT40 Relays ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Bohinny
Date Posted: April-24-2012 at 10:10am
|
The "IAP" idle motor is 2-1944, the MAP sensor is 2-19002 at NAPA. Found this on a search ------------- Billy |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: April-30-2012 at 6:24pm
|
Syptoms: Fuel Pressure pump 15A breaker pops a few seconds after motor starts. Otherwise fuel pumps sound fine and there are no other symptoms indicating anything would be wrong. Solution: Low pressure pump in partial state of failure, drawing too many amps. Replace LPP. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-30-2012 at 6:30pm
|
Thanks Joel https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - I updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: April-30-2012 at 6:31pm
|
Symptoms: Check Engine light starts blinking intermittently at low RPM but goes away when RPM increases. After a while, check engine stays on and engine will go into limp mode at anything over 2700 RPM but work perfectly fine up to limp mode RPM. Oil pressure and water temp gauges reading normally. Solution: Notice the oil leaking out of the oil pressure switch, which is above the oil filter on a T'ed fitting shared with the oil pressure sensor sender. Replace oil pressure switch. VACATION SAVING SHORT TERM TIP: Get a 1/4" brass plug from the hardware store and replace the switch with this plug. Then order the pressure switch and replace it when you can. With sensor wire detached, the incomplete circuit will turn off the check engine light. The same or similar symptoms could be tied to failing water temp warning switch, which resides in a boss on the circulation pump. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-30-2012 at 6:54pm
|
Thanks again Joel. I updated the spreadsheet with a column containing a simplified description or the symptoms and added a row for Oil Pressure switch. The sheet is always the same link, I just update the same one. |
Posted By: panda
Date Posted: May-14-2012 at 12:42am
|
Injectors ------------- 95 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-14-2012 at 12:49am
| ^^Did you replace the injectors? |
Posted By: panda
Date Posted: May-14-2012 at 2:03pm
In the mail ------------- 95 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Bri892001 wrote:Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-21-2012 at 1:15pm
|
New ECM fixed rough running, hesitation, little now power as documented here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25775&PN=1&title=99-sn-gt40-fuel-supply" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25775&PN=1&title=99-sn-gt40-fuel-supply https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-25-2012 at 1:31pm
|
Faulty injectors causing no-power above 2100 RPMS: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26110&title=no-power-above-2100-rpms" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26110&title=no-power-above-2100-rpms |
Posted By: Silver15
Date Posted: May-26-2012 at 1:55am
|
1998 Model GT40- Victim of neglect. Problem 1: Boat had sat for a while. Would not start at all with proper fuel pressure, spark, and compression, but would run on fuel poured into the intake. Solution: Replaced all injectors, they were completely plugged. You can pick them up for far below retail on ebay. They are 26lbs blue top injectors. Another good precaution would be to ensure that your fuel rail is clean and that all filters are clean and functioning to avoid the same problem again in the future. Problem 2: No power to either of the fuel pumps. Solution: The fuel pump relay (There are two- Ignition and Fuel) located on the rear on the engine had been damaged by moisture. Both ignition and fuel relays are interchangeable and cost about $20 a piece depending on where you purchase them. Problem 3: Leaking water from around the base of the intake manifold (visible from exterior of engine while being run). Solution: Removed the intake manifold. The four corners of the intake manifold must be set in silicon (we used high temp permatex) to prevent leakage. You shouldn't have to worry about this unless you have jostled around, or removed the manifold. ------------- 2000 Air/Sport 1978 T16 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-29-2012 at 1:22am
|
^^ https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet I updated for the injectors and relays. I figure the intake manifold is more general mechanical. Thanks for the input. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-30-2012 at 12:54pm
|
Distributor causing sporatic cutouts at speed, as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23542&title=interruptions-while-running--2001-super-sport" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23542&title=interruptions-while-running--2001-super-sport |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-01-2012 at 12:52pm
|
New Relay cures no prime/no start condition: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26249&title=gt40-starting-problem-solved" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26249&title=gt40-starting-problem-solved |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-04-2012 at 3:27pm
|
Water needing to be drained from Fuel Control Cell caused no start condition here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26185&PID=337102#337102" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26185&PID=337102#337102 |
Posted By: 1994nautique
Date Posted: June-08-2012 at 3:27am
| Can you tell me where the anti siphon valve is located? My 94 does the same stalling out every now and then when pulling up a skier. It acts like it floods out so I put it in neutral and start it with the throttle wide open. Then I can usually pull the skier up. Thanks! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-08-2012 at 12:40pm
There's a good picture of it in this thread: http://www.nautiqueowner.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23090&PID=289854&title=anti-siphon-valve" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueowner.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23090&PID=289854&title=anti-siphon-valve |
Posted By: 1994nautique
Date Posted: June-09-2012 at 2:26am
| Awesome! Thanks! |
Posted By: harriss28
Date Posted: June-09-2012 at 3:25pm
|
Intermitant no start Sometimes a single click and no start-> faulty starter relay found relay at advance auto. i believe it was off of a 60's or 70's dodge muscle car |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-11-2012 at 12:43pm
|
^^Thanks https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: charlesml3
Date Posted: June-16-2012 at 11:09am
|
Specifics: 1999 GT-40 EFI. 671 hours. Well maintained since new but never tuned up. Symptom: Lumpy idle. Clear raw fuel smell at the exhaust when idling. Obvious miss/skip from idle speed up to around 2100RPM. Occasional miss at cruise speeds if you listen carefully. Solution: Replace distributor cap and rotor. The original cap and rotor were clearly worn and pitted. The boat ran great after this. $44. Also: New plug wires, new spark plugs, new fuel filter and raw water impeller. Might as well do it all. The boat hasn't run this smooth in years. Total cost was $200 and it took about an hour to replace everything. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-16-2012 at 11:21am
Cool, thanks  I gave that its own column; full ignition tuneup. Goes to show that it helps to check the simple stuff first. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-18-2012 at 12:45pm
|
Hot loping (rolling idle) problem fixed with Idle Speed Control Valve: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24848&title=gt40-engine-loping" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24848&title=gt40-engine-loping Part found on Rock Auto: IACV PN: e9se9f715eb (off the original valve) http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=945342" rel="nofollow - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=945342 $55.79 + shipping https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2012 at 2:35pm
|
Another kill switch inadvertently pulled. 0 dollar repair: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26735&title=helpboat-wont-stay-running" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26735&title=helpboat-wont-stay-running |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-04-2012 at 3:05pm
|
Engine Missing Solved by ECM Relay: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23424&title=engine-missing" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23424&title=engine-missing |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-09-2012 at 12:43pm
|
Broken spark plug wire causes lost power, lost rpms and miss: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26612&title=1997-gt40-issue" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26612&title=1997-gt40-issue https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-09-2012 at 1:17pm
|
Another fuel pump popping a breaker: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26855&title=circuit-breaker-popping" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26855&title=circuit-breaker-popping |
Posted By: Bohinny
Date Posted: July-09-2012 at 2:54pm
IACV PN TV-206 at autozone $55 and close to the lake if needed.  I like having theses PNs so I can possibly save a wekend. Thanks for the spreadsheet------------- Billy |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-09-2012 at 3:50pm
|
You're welcome. Hope it helped. I updated the IACV line with the Autozone PN, the Napa one is there too. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-16-2012 at 2:00am
|
Low pressure fuel pump not activating. Fix is to replace http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26811&PID=344711#344711" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=26811&PID=344711#344711 Will update spreadsheet. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-07-2012 at 12:51am
|
Clogged Fuel Pickup tube causing reduced top speed, surging and poor performance: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27274&title=gt40-issues" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27274&title=gt40-issues |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-07-2012 at 12:53am
| https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-09-2012 at 12:59pm
|
Old Post with a cracked tube in the FCC leading to very poor performance, backfiring etc: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21983&title=pcm-gt40-backfires" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21983&title=pcm-gt40-backfires |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-13-2012 at 1:46pm
|
Another failing Low Pressure Pump causing breaker to pop repeatedly: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27336&PID=350861#350861" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27336&PID=350861#350861 https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-15-2012 at 1:33pm
|
Another tiny crack in the fuel line inside the FCC. This one caused very sudden, total loss of performance. Inability to idle and rev up: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27375&PID=351303#351303" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27375&PID=351303#351303 https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: panda
Date Posted: August-23-2012 at 3:43am
Where did you pick up your cap and rotor for that price?
------------- 95 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-28-2012 at 10:53am
|
Bad gas causes hesitation, stalling and limited top speed: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27432&title=gt40-fuel-pressure-stalling" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27432&title=gt40-fuel-pressure-stalling https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: minasianj
Date Posted: September-02-2012 at 3:19pm
|
Symptom: No start and inoperative low pressure fuel pump. Solution: Replaced fuel pump relay. $13 |
Posted By: Keith
Date Posted: September-03-2012 at 1:05am
|
1997 GT40 with approx 700 hrs. Symptoms: An otherwise perfectly running engine suddenly dies and won't restart. Turns over but won't catch. An hour or more later, starts and runs fine. Later dies and won't start again. Solution: Bad Ignition Module or TFI(Thick Film Ignition). Replace TFI by removing it from the heatsink. These TFIs come in four flavors - distributor mount and remote mount, in grey and black. Make sure you get the remote mount, grey one - referred to as "Remote Mount Gray TFI-IV 'Push Start' ICM". Part Numbers: Motorcraft - DY1075 (supercedes DY533) Ford - 5U2Z12A297B (supercedes E8DZ-12A297-A) Wells - F125 Niehoff - FF411 BWD - CBE33 Standard - LX226 Napa (Echlin) - TP33 (~$73) Delphi - DS10053 Transpo - FM533 Image of TFI mounted to heatsink  Image of replacement TFI  Edit: You'll need a deep socket 7/32 to remove/install the TFI from the heatsink.  The replacement TFI also will come with with a silicone that is applied to the metal back of the TFI, where it comes in contact with the heatsink. The TFI is the grey plug facing the front of the boat, located under the black cowling, next to the coil near the throttle body. See Lewy's photo:  ------------- Former: /diaries/details.asp?ID=6170" rel="nofollow - 97 Sport Nautique 1994 Ski Nautique 86 Silver Nautique 79 Mustang |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-04-2012 at 12:28pm
|
Thanks guys. Good write up Keith. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: September-23-2012 at 2:13pm
Keith was the module you replaced grey or black? I was working on my boat today getting it ready for the summer and while inspecting my TFI module (was going to re-apply heatsink compound) found that it was a black module. This had me initially thinking somewhere along the line it must have been replaced with a incorrect module. The main difference between the black and grey modules is that the grey module sets the dwell while with the black module the computer controls the dwell. The GT40 manual in the reference section (3F-13 page 222) species the use of a black CCD (computer controlled dwell) TFI module. This led to some research and I found what I think is the correct answer. I will confirm this in the next few days at my Ford parts dealership but it already looks conclusive from this article. http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI_grey_or_black.html" rel="nofollow - TFI Modules Grey or Black from this article:- "Since these two TFI systems are so significantly different, yet so similar in appearance, parts application problems will inevitably occur. A gray Push Start TFI module will plug right into a CCD system, and vice versa. To make matters worse, parts books are often incorrect on TFI module applications! With the incorrect TFI module installed, the vehicle will run, but driveability and MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) problems will result. For instance, if a gray Push Start TFI module is installed in a CCD system, the computer will not be able to control ignition dwell, and the MIL will illuminate with memory codes for the IDM circuit set, as the gray TFI module is incapable of generating an IDM signal to the computer. If a black CCD TFI module is installed in a Push Start system, dwell will remain fixed, since the SPOUT signal duty cycle never changes. If in doubt about which TFI module belongs on a particular vehicle, consult the ignition system wiring diagram for the vehicle. If the wire going to pin #4 on the EEC-IV computer comes directly from pin #4 of the TFI module, it is a CCD system. If not, it is a Push Start system." These should be the correct part numbers for the GT40 TFI Remote Mount Black CCD "Computer Controlled Dwell" ICM Motorcraft - DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645) Ford - 5U2Z-12A297-D (supercedes F1PZ-12A297-A) Wells - F139 Niehoff - FF413 BWD - CBE40 Standard - LX-241 NapaEchlin - TP29 Delphi - DS10056 Transpo - FM544 Keith maybe your TFI had been swapped out earlier with incorrect "grey" module. It would be easily done as stated in the article as they look identical apart from colour and will still function just not as efficiently. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Keith
Date Posted: October-01-2012 at 2:50pm
|
Lewy, I had the same dilemma when trying to fix my boat during Labor Day weekend (grey or black TFI). I need to contact PCM and get a definitive answer. I can tell you my TFI plug is grey, not black. That, and the fact the bad TFI I was replacing was grey, caused me to go with grey. The research I did on Fords of that error made me belive they used grey TFI's which were attached to the distributor first, then Ford went to remoted mounted grey TFI's and then remote mounted black TFI's. I wonder if early GT-40's would be differnet than later GT-40's. Marine was so far behind auto it's always hard to tell when parts changed. I'll try to get the final answer and post here. Thanks, Keith ------------- Former: /diaries/details.asp?ID=6170" rel="nofollow - 97 Sport Nautique 1994 Ski Nautique 86 Silver Nautique 79 Mustang |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: October-02-2012 at 10:09pm
|
Keith it would be nice to get a answer back from PCM. But do not hold your breath still waiting for their answer on the modification to EEC fuse wiring on the GT40 engines. The manual in the reference section is for the early GT40 without the FCC. It does specify the use of a black CCD TFI unit. (3F-13 page 222) Also the article from Ford Engineer David Sill has a method of determining which type of TFI is required.- "If in doubt about which TFI module belongs on a particular vehicle, consult the ignition system wiring diagram for the vehicle. If the wire going to pin #4 on the EEC-IV computer comes directly from pin #4 of the TFI module, it is a CCD system. If not, it is a Push Start system." The tan/yellow wire from pin 4 of the computer does go to pin 4 on the TFI connector on the GT40 engine. So what started out as simple check ended up being a full on investigation. I was unable to source the correct TFI unit at any of my OEM auto part suppliers or local Ford dealer parts department. The only TFI module that ever made it to the Australian 5 litre V8 Windsor engine was the distributor mount "push start" grey module. I decided to order one from the US just in case mine played up in the middle of summer at a very inconvenient time. Found it unusual that Skidim did not stock them. If they are a high failure part I would have thought they would carry them. Maybe they don't actually fail that much in the marine application. Sourced it through Amazon who have good shipping rates to Australia. http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000IYHCRW/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0&isremote=0" rel="nofollow - Black CCD TFI Found this one which should be compatible but played safe with the genuine Motorcraft part. It maybe worth ordering one as a spare for US based owners at $29 though. http://www.amazon.com/F1PF12K072AA-ZZM118033A-Lincoln-Mercury-Ignition/dp/B0055AFOC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1349219970&sr=1-1&keywords=DY645" rel="nofollow - Cheap Spare TFI ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: October-05-2012 at 9:31pm
|
Brian did not intend to mess this thread up. Not sure if Keith can remove this TFI stuff and start a new thread just on the TFI. Anyway the new ignition module arrived yesterday from Amazon. It should be the latest revision of the "CCD remote mount"  ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: October-08-2012 at 11:14am
| No problem. Just put in the final word on what is the correct TFI is to use, or if depends on the year? |
Posted By: Keith
Date Posted: January-15-2013 at 2:13pm
|
Lewy, I was just able to confirm with PCM that the black TFI is the correct one. "The TFI module we use is black with a Ford part number F15F 12A297 C1A. This one is the only one that I know of that will work properly with our calibration." I will update my TFI write up above once I find the other part numbers. Looks like I will need to buy myself another TFI module before Spring.  - Keith ------------- Former: /diaries/details.asp?ID=6170" rel="nofollow - 97 Sport Nautique 1994 Ski Nautique 86 Silver Nautique 79 Mustang |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-16-2013 at 1:41am
Keith glad to see you finally received a reply from PCM. I have never managed to get a reply from them. You must have a inside man.  The number for the TFI module they gave you is the old number that was available when PCM were building the Ford GT40. It has been superceded by Ford since then. Ford - 5U2Z-12A297-D (supercedes F1PZ-12A297-A) The F15F 12A297 C1A was previously superceded by F1PZ-12A297-A If you try an order a F15F 12A297 C1A the Ford parts man will tell you they no longer exist replaced by the new number. These are the correct part numbers for the GT40 TFI Remote Mount Black CCD "Computer Controlled Dwell" ICM Motorcraft - DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645) Ford - 5U2Z-12A297-D (supercedes F1PZ-12A297-A) Wells - F139 Niehoff - FF413 BWD - CBE40 Standard - LX-241 NapaEchlin - TP29 Delphi - DS10056 Transpo - FM544 ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-16-2013 at 1:57pm
It looks like Nautiqueparts is carrying this black TFI for the low, low price of $180  http://www.nautiqueparts.com/tfimodule.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/tfimodule.aspx Maybe we can see if Zach will/can/does stock it and can give a better price. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: January-16-2013 at 2:02pm
| ^^Or course, it looks like they are including the heat sink... which is probably a pricey chunk of metal. |
Posted By: E4ODnut
Date Posted: January-16-2013 at 3:52pm
|
I had a look in my Ford '92 Car/truck service manual and it looks like there may be some wrecking yard options available. The following are listed as using TFI CCD (black): Passenger car engines 2.3L HSC/2.5L/3.0L Taurus/Sable 3.0L Probe/Tempo/Topaz 3.8L Thunderbird 5.0L HO Thunderbird/Cougar Truck engines 3.0L Ranger 7.0L Hope this helps. ------------- Robert 1993 Bayliner 3288 "Hocus Pocus" 351 Fords, converted to tuned port programmable EFI |
Posted By: Keith
Date Posted: January-16-2013 at 5:38pm
|
Do a Google search on the part numbers Lewy provided. You find some decent prices - especially for the Wells F139. - Keith ------------- Former: /diaries/details.asp?ID=6170" rel="nofollow - 97 Sport Nautique 1994 Ski Nautique 86 Silver Nautique 79 Mustang |
Posted By: Keith
Date Posted: January-16-2013 at 5:40pm
|
Looks like Nautiqueparts is selling the heatsink as well. You don't need the entire assembly, just the black TFI. Your old heatsink should be perfectly fine. -Keith ------------- Former: /diaries/details.asp?ID=6170" rel="nofollow - 97 Sport Nautique 1994 Ski Nautique 86 Silver Nautique 79 Mustang |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-08-2013 at 11:15pm
|
Replacing Gunked Up Low Pressure Fuel Pump Fixes No Start Condition: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29362&title=gt40-wont-start" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29362&title=gt40-wont-start |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 1:48pm
|
Brian, i suspect that just cleaning the screen/pump would have fixed the problem too. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 4:33pm
| That's true, makes sense. |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 4:44pm
|
an a lot cheaper... ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 5:04pm
| LOL. Definitely. Thanks for closing the loop on the thread too, that makes it a good reference. |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: May-09-2013 at 6:27pm
|
no problem. i've learned a ton from this site so I try to give back when I can. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-01-2013 at 11:04am
|
New Distributor Stator (PIP Sensor) solves no start condition. Here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30443&title=sn95-wont-start" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30443&title=sn95-wont-start Updated Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing Part: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MP716SB" rel="nofollow - http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MP716SB |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-31-2013 at 2:00pm
|
New Spark Plug Wires fix surging issue: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22823&PID=402007#402007" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22823&PID=402007#402007 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-12-2013 at 10:37pm
|
New spark plugs and corrected plug wire firing order fixes lost power and missing: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30980&title=loss-of-power" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=30980&title=loss-of-power |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-17-2013 at 5:30am
|
Full ignition tuneup, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor fixes high rpm hesitation problem: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31451&title=pcm-proboss-gt40-mp-efi-rpm-failures" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31451&title=pcm-proboss-gt40-mp-efi-rpm-failures https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: OrlandoGuy82
Date Posted: October-21-2013 at 5:33pm
|
I had this same issue with my 97 GT-40 Sport. There is a tube going down into the tank and at the top of it was a little mesh filter. The crud got up the tube and clogged it. I blew out the wad of crud and runs perfect now. Of course this means I need to take the tank out and clean it. I also cleaned the anti-siphon valve |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: January-05-2014 at 6:13pm
| I test drove a 1998 Air Nautique with a GT-40 which had been sitting for a while, only run a couple time in two years. When I was accelerating hard, it would intermittently (once every 3rd time or so) slow down for a split second and the engine light would come on, then it would continue to accelerate and the engine light would go out. It seemed like momentary hesitation, light comes on, then everything was fine. I passed on the boat because of this, but I just wanted to see if I am being over cautious on a simple fix. The boat ran great other than this and the compression was good |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: January-05-2014 at 6:32pm
|
That is the "SLOW" limp mode on the GT40 engine. The GT40 uses extra switches (not senders) to sense low oil pressure and high engine temp. The computer then limits rpms. Easy to trouble shoot just remove wiring from both switches.  ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-06-2014 at 10:36pm
|
No spark condition fixed by replacing Relays as Described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33681&title=95-sn-ob-gt40-no-spark" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33681&title=95-sn-ob-gt40-no-spark https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - Updated Spreadsheet |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-09-2014 at 10:07am
|
Fuel Pump Related Cutout solved by fixing/replacing lanyard kill switch. These kill switches cut out the fuel, not the ignition: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33651&title=fuel-pumps" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33651&title=fuel-pumps Added rows for Faulty Kill Switch: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing %20" rel="nofollow - %20" rel="nofollow - |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-20-2014 at 12:49am
|
Check Engine light and Sputtering "Limp Mode" fixed by replacing Oil Pressure Switch as described here: http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12307&title=check-engine-light-on-sputtering" rel="nofollow - http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12307&title=check-engine-light-on-sputtering |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-07-2014 at 11:32pm
|
Engine starts very briefly then stalls out. Solved by cleaning or replacing antisiphon valve as described here: http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33867&title=engine-dont-start-then-stop" rel="nofollow - http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33867&title=engine-dont-start-then-stop Updated spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing |
Posted By: 7golfman
Date Posted: July-09-2014 at 11:39pm
|
Keith, How did you determine it was the TFI? My 97 GT40 has the same symptoms. ------------- 7golfman |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-12-2014 at 2:42am
|
Abrupt Engine Shutoff/no-start solved by replacing relay: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34100&title=97-gt40-sudden-motor-shutoff-hard-or-want-start" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34100&title=97-gt40-sudden-motor-shutoff-hard-or-want-start Updated Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-21-2014 at 11:29pm
|
Removal, disassembly and cleanup of ECM solves Bank 1 Injectors not Pulsing as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34190&title=bank-1-efi-problem" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34190&title=bank-1-efi-problem Updated Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing |
Posted By: the good ag
Date Posted: August-02-2014 at 9:19pm
|
Great idea, thank you for initiating. My 1997 has been great with the exception of an relay replacement about 5 yrs ago until I started having the issues I posted on the fuel supply. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-07-2014 at 10:27pm
|
Loss of Power, hesitation, rough idle and reduced top speed fixed with complete rebuilt distributor, as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34211&title=97-sn-loss-of-power-top-speed-rough-idle" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34211&title=97-sn-loss-of-power-top-speed-rough-idle |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 9:10am
|
Another kill switch causing fuel pump to come on. Fixed by bypassing kill switch. This one was a new post on an existing, older, thread. Starts here at August-02-2014 at 5:13pm by the good ag http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25775&PID=440815#440815" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25775&PID=440815#440815 https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - Spreadsheet Updated |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 9:27am
|
Faulty wiring from ECM to Fuel Pump Relay caused intermittent no start condition. Fixed by making new wire: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33867&PID=443360#443360" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=33867&PID=443360#443360 Also updated spreadsheet, same link as above. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: August-26-2014 at 9:33am
|
Bad Fuel, water in fuel, causing no start or run: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34012&PN=1&title=gt40-probs" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34012&PN=1&title=gt40-probs Also updated spreadsheet, same link as above. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-02-2014 at 9:52am
|
A hard hot start (running then sitting for an hour or long enough for heat soak) issue turns into a never start condition. This is solved with a new low pressure fuel pump, here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34248&PID=444293#444293" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34248&PID=444293#444293 Spreadsheet updated https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-02-2014 at 9:57am
|
Another hard hot starting issue. Solved by replacing both high and low pressure fuel pumps: Note, this in the pervious are links to specific posts in the same thread. This one refers to PT Skier's post: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34248&PID=443571#443571" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34248&PID=443571#443571 Updated spreadsheet, same link as previous. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-14-2014 at 3:43pm
|
Stuttering hesitation problem seems to be solved by replacement fuel filter. This is after full ignition tuneup, and replacement of both pumps and relays: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34259&PID=444959#444959" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=34259&PID=444959#444959 Updated Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AjRJOCEx-NOidGcyLTVIOFBrZnVnOURXYjU2NUpFSkE&usp=sharing |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-01-2014 at 12:51am
|
Resetting a breaker in the PME Breaker Box, fixes a condition where the engine will start and run until the operator lets go of the starter button. Here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35039&PN=1&title=gt40-stops-after-letting-go-of-button" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35039&PN=1&title=gt40-stops-after-letting-go-of-button Updated Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-05-2015 at 1:03pm
|
Full Ignition Tuneup (including replacing rusty cap) solves a miss at WOT and reduced top speed, as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35916&PN=1&title=95-ski-gt40-question" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=35916&PN=1&title=95-ski-gt40-question Link to spreadsheet is the same as above. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-23-2015 at 10:10am
|
Bad gas results in No Start Condition as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36363&title=2000-pro-air-gt-40-not-running" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36363&title=2000-pro-air-gt-40-not-running Spreadsheet https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-24-2015 at 1:15pm
|
Broken KIll Switch/Lanyard causes engine to start, but die as soon as key is moved away from start position, as described here: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36251&title=key-switch" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36251&title=key-switch Spreadsheet updated, same link as above. |
Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: June-27-2015 at 12:48am
|
Bad low pressure pump causes hot start immediate stall due to lack of pump prime.. Tougher to replace on V-drive Super Sport, but everything is in reach. I crawled into the adjacent storage area to make it easier on myself. Take a few pics when you do it so you can see how things go back together. Also...might want to buy the male end of the connector that comes with the replacement pump to splice into the circuit wires. I'm going to solder and heat shrink the wires. ------------- 2008 MasterCraft 197TT 1996 Nautique Super Sport 1988 Waterlogged Supra Mariah |
Posted By: ejnautique
Date Posted: June-30-2015 at 6:35am
| I have a 2002 Air Nautique with a GT40 engine. Yesterday I was cruising along at 25 MPH, felt a slight shudder and a few seconds later the engine went dead. It would not restart. Ran perfectly before this. Any ideas on diagnosis? We tried starter fluid and the engine fired over, but would not continue to run, so my thought was fuel. Not sure where to start to narrow down the root cause. Appreciate any help. Local marinas are backed up 10 days during peak vacation period. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: June-30-2015 at 10:07am
|
Check your relays on back of motor. Sounds like your injectors aren't firing or not getting fuel. If the relays don't fix the problem check to see if you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: June-30-2015 at 10:33am
Peter, so the Low Pressure Pump fixed it?
Paul (EJ Nautique), be sure to remember to post your fix when you find it. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-20-2015 at 12:17am
|
Fixing Kill Switch Cures no start condition: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36784&PID=476176񴐐" rel="nofollow - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36784&PID=476176 Updated Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing |
Posted By: 98AirBoat
Date Posted: July-24-2015 at 5:32pm
|
98 Air-Nautique GT-40 runs great for several hours, turn to pickup wake boarder when the engine dies as if the lanyard was pulled. Lanyard was on and engine would crank with no fire. Towed back by a 25HP pontoon at 3mph. Fix was a 30 amp inline fuse in the battery box on the small red wire. Was the second thing I checked thanks to these forums.... ------------- Get air or go home! |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: July-25-2015 at 4:29pm
|
Thanks for the input Tim. I logged your 30 amp inline fuse fix in the spreadsheet under: EDIT: Per Lewy's correction below I have now added a new row to the spreadsheet and put the entry under: Fused Line in Batt Box for EEC Power Updated spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17VemuIOaa9i8kEply-ZmFOSyjyzz8rd7B0WEuIT_6S0/edit?usp=sharing |