New Owner
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25374
Printed Date: May-16-2024 at 2:00pm
Topic: New Owner
Posted By: Tiger76
Subject: New Owner
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 11:51am
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I have a few questions that I know you guys can help me with. I bought my first boat a few weeks ago and have taken it out three times with no real issues...or so I thought. I notice this morning when looking at my new purchase before work that I have some dings on my prop and marks on my trailer. I guess I had it in to deep when loading this past weekend. It was getting dark and I was rushing I guess. Can I continue to use or do I need to have the prop fixed first? I also need to replace my fuel gauge... Do I just remove the thumb screws and pull the entire dash off??? Last but not least one of the places I go I'm launching in fresh and riding down into brackish water...Is the ride back enough of a flush or do I need to get a flush kit and flush more when I get home? Here it is My new toy 93 Sport Nautique and the damage.          
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 11:57am
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What's wrong with the fuel gauge? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 12:07pm
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The gauge separated from the glass lense so it just fell back into the dash. Reached into the place you would install the radio and pulled it down so I can see how much fuel I have. Thought about trying epoxy to attach it back to the lense and then reinstall. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:11pm
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I would think if your spending a good amount of time in fresh water at the end of the trip, that should be just as good if not better than a flush on the hose. The prop, hmmm, not sure. It doesn't look too bad, as long as you're not feeling a vibration. Is it the original prop? If so, you would probably get improved performance by going with a newer ACME. You can remove the thumb screws, and (gently) lift the dash, yup. You can remove the whole thing, but you might be getting into a bigger job than you really need too. A few things would have to be disconnected etc., although, it's not a big deal. If you can get to the bracket fastener, you can leave the dash attached. It helps if you have someone who can hold it up for you, or rest it on the steering wheel. One place you can find your gauge on this page: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/gauges_fuel.aspx" rel="nofollow - http://www.nautiqueparts.com/gauges_fuel.aspx I think it is the top row, middle for your boat. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:11pm
And, BTW, very nice boat 
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Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:26pm
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I would say, you should get it fixed, next time you take it out, it will vibrate (and you will likely see a degradation in performance). It may not seem bad, but the vibration is going to start to reek havoc on everything upstream (transmission, engine, etc). You might want to consider purchasing a ACME422, that has been a very good upgrade, especially if you are predominately wakeboarding. TRBenj can confirm for sure (as I have the next generation Sport hull)but I thnk that 422 would be a good upgrade. Delta Prop has a discount for CCF, so check there first for prices. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:35pm
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I'd upgrade that prop to a new ACME before fixing it...you can keep it around/fix it up as a spare. That's odd that it can hit the trailer, with your uprights you shouldn't be able to hit that trailer with the prop, even though you clearly did. Wonder if you need to do a little trailer modification so that can't happen again? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:44pm
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Congrats on the new boat!! FYI, Your Flite Pipe (Extended Pylon) should not be attached to the front lifting ring, if you have a strap in front, it should wrap around the bow down to the tow ring. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:45pm
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I have a rebuilt by ACME 422 I would consider letting go of.................... I think. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:49pm
No so odd Mike, it's happened to me. Shallow ramp reversing off, prop "paddle wheels" the boat to the port, bam your in the trailer. The guide posts have to be wide enough to allow the beam through, but with the taper to the stern, you can't set them close enough to keep it from happening. One prop repairs later and I have learned no matter what DON'T RUSH!!!! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
mdvalant wrote:Posted By: mdvalant
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 1:52pm
Interesting...Good to know!!! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5009 - '90 Ski (sold) http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5479 - '00 Sport Mississippi River - Bellevue, IA |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 2:47pm
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Thanks for all the quick replies. mdvalant shoot me a pm with a price on that ACME 422. The prices i'm seeing online scare me seeing how I'm in pretty deep so fare. I'm sure it would lower my top end and just give me a better hole shot right? skutsch I've been concerned when backing off every time with the potential of hitting the trailer, but I just looked at the pics again and with the marks on the trailer being were they are I had to have done it loading I think...correct me if I'm wrong guess I could have drifted over once I cleared and just nicked it. quinner the pic of the flite pipe being strapped to the lift ring was a pic from the previous owner, but thanks for looking out for me on that one. with all of this being said I'm backing in to were the fenders are just under the water maybe 1-3 inches and still have to give it a nice bump on the throttle to start moving backwards. Is this wright or wrong? Not a lot of inboards around me just bass boats. I know the ramp has a lot to do with this I just don't know how to read it yet. Lovin this site |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 2:49pm
| forgot to mention that my speedo's are not working correct so I guess when I have the dash off for the fuel gauge I'll take a quick look to make sure the hose isn't cracked. |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 2:59pm
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Ross - for launching, I just keep going back until I see the stern start to float. If the ramp is not steep enough for that, then as deep as I can get it. For loading, I go just deep enough so the fenders are just under the water. This seems to work for both my 98 and my Dad's 63 Ski. Completely different trailers, but the theory seems to work. ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 6:04pm
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I also noticed on lunch some red colored oily substance around the drain plug on lunch. transmission fluid??? were to check on that one would be a great help as well. pray its a loose hose or something simple. |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 6:12pm
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okay I found that it might be the flange nut washer leaking....and that's located???? Hey I'm an IT Director, but I can learn and love my boat even with the problems. 
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 6:32pm
| Hmmm, pics of what/where you're seeing would help. |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:42pm
okay so this is the fuel gauge issue that appears to be an easy repair and then what I think in transmission fluid at the drain which is really scaring me at the moment. I took the boat out saturday and sunday. I noticed a little of the fluid before I went out sunday so I cleaned it up and checked the fluid levels in the tranny before going out. Ran the boat for about 1-1.5 hours and didn't see the fluid when I pulled the drain plug but in was there today on lunch...now I didn't notice the prop damage until this morning but I guess I might have did it saturday when unloading which might be the reason I saw it there sunday when prepping to go out again. Do you think that the little prop ding could be causing the leak or not and why would it only show up after the boat sits over night.  
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Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:45pm
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I'll let other comment on the tranny leak. Not sure on that one. On the gauge, you're right should be easy. Just bear in mind, that the old style most likely used a blade connection, and the newer one, might need a ring terminal. But that will be easy to change if it is the case. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:50pm
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See if you can slide a piece of cardboard under the engine to see where the leak is coming from. Yes, it's trans fluid. The most likely spot it the front seal on the trans and that will leak out of the bell housing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:57pm
well that sounds like its gonna cost me some money! 
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Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 9:01pm
I agree, however, you also might check the shift lever input. My gaskets were leaking, and it costs about $4.00 to fix. One good reason to do some checking, clean everything really well, do the cardboard trick, and maybe even check with the engine running, and a flash light and mirror to see if you can find the leak. BTW, your bilge looks pretty clean, this leak has to be pretty new, or you'd see a nice oil slick in there |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 9:14pm
| card board is in place and the leak didn't start until this past weekend. this was the second and third time I took the boat out after purchasing it. strange that I don't see it until the next day both times. btw I just checked the fluid level and it's still good so no damage done just a pain in the butt leak to fix I guess. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-27-2012 at 10:08pm
| One other easy thing to check would be the transmission fluid cooler, which is mounted externally to the transmission. The cooling water intake line runs through it. |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 9:26am
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Ross, first of all welcome to CCFan, secondly, NICE Boat! No one adressed your speedo problem so first thing to do is check to make sure the pitots aren't clogged up. That's usually the culprit so I remove the rubber tubing from the top of the pick up (Pitot) use a syringe with rubber tubing filled with water connect it to the pitot and force the obstruction out. If you don't have the means to do this a small fish hook usually works to dig out the trash partially blocking the hole. Let us know what you find out. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 2:08pm
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Nice boat, Not sure on your trailer if you can move the front stop back, but if you can that would prevent from driving to far forward. My problem comes from getting off in to shallow of water, The boat will pull to one side, If this happens bump it into forward and straighten before it gets over to the side. Good look Mike ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 2:30pm
Before suggesting moving the bow stop back, it's good advice to check the tongue weight first. It should be at least 10% of the trailer GVW. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 3:04pm
Sorry Mike, that one was just too obvious not to post! I'd check the trans cooler lines as well. I've seen several split at the cooler and dump fluid into the bilge. If this is the case, you may not see them leaking while running because the fluid has to travel down the line and then the bell housing to get to the bilge. ------------- |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 3:32pm
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So it would only leak while running and under pressure? ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 4:21pm
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well, it is only a problem if spectators are around. On the tranny leak you could get a paper towel and start checking underneath the bell housing, round cooler, shaft tail. Pete is pretty sharp on his advice so the 10% thing is most likely the way it is supposed to be, I have an older trailer and moved the bow stops back so That I can lift the tongue if needed. Granted I have to take a few breaths and will not be holding it up for very long. Thanks Mike ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 6:42pm
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with the damage to the prop being so small could I not just bend the tip back over with an adjustable wrench? not beating on it just hook it over and bend it back. still want to get an acme 422 but with this transmission leak not found as of yet I'm just looking to save and get back on the water. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 8:19pm
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Ross, The prop is not soft brass. It's Nibral and harder than you think. Try it if you want but I feel you will end up doing more damage. Sent it to a prop shop and have them do the job on it. Then you'll have a good spare prop for when you get the new one. If the prop has been properly installed, you will need a puller to get it off. When you get the new prop, there's a thread on how to lap it to the shaft. I'll see if I can find it for you. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 8:24pm
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Ross, Here's the thread: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866&KW=proper+prop&PID=145077&title=proper-prop-installation#145077" rel="nofollow - proper prop installation ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-28-2012 at 10:53pm
Thank God!!! I think I've found the problem... you guys are great. So I had time to dig around this evening and it looks like its the tranny fluid cooling lines leaking. Not sure if the hose is bad or if it just needs to be tightened up...does it have an o-ring inside the fitting? Anyway here is the pics of what I saw. You can see the outer cloth on the hose is wet with fluid, some under the wire for the temp sensor "i'm guessing that's what that is" and some in the threads were the hose connects to the cooler.     ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: lakedog55
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 12:52am
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Cool, hopefully that fixes it. When tightening up the lines on the cooler use two wrenches. The coolers are pretty thin using two wrenches will help to keep from cracking it. I would keep an eye on the tranny fluid sounds like someone changed fluid before selling. Not that thats a bad idea, but to be on the safe side I would keep an eye on it. Mike ------------- Lakedog55 |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 1:13am
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I think it's leaking at the end connected to the tranny and running down to the cooler before dripping down. Would that end be a double wrench job as well? ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 3:45am
That is not a temp sensor it is the Neutral Safety Switch NSS. Glad it was a simple fix for you. ------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 10:51am
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I would pull the fitting out of the case & re-seal those threads, it looks to me that it is leaking there. Fluid usually doesn't run uphill. I had a similar leak, I think I used teflon tape, be careful not to let fragments of tape get inside the case. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:03am
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Ross, I go along with Chris's idea with the Teflon tape but just want to make one thing clear. The tape goes on the pipe treads of the flare adptor to the trans case. No tape on the actual flare fitting where the hose connects. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:06am
Gotta disagree with you there, Pete. The old school hand finished props perform pretty poorly on these larger ski boats, as compared to the new CNC wheels with big, accurate blades. Night and day performance difference... which is why that old prop, even in mint condition, is only worth around $100 (maybe less if its been repaired). He'd have more into it than its worth if he got it fixed. I suspect that a few minutes spent with a hammer and a file will get it back into very useable shape. Probably no perceptible performance difference either. Id save the $100 repair costs and put it towards a new prop instead! Or, if you dont care enough about the boats performance to justify spending $350 on a new prop, put that repair money into the gas tank. Either way, its not worth investing a dime into a professional repair on that prop, IMHO. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:22am
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Very good point Tim. Thanks ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:29am
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I'm gonna try to address the hose issue this evening if time allows and might take a look at the prop some more. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:52am
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I dinged up my 540 last fall on a ramp lane curb about the same as yours and managed to straighten out the damage with a cresent wrench at Salty's house. I took time straightening it back to original form and used a straight edge to fine tune it, constantly measured and compared it to another blade. Was still concerned about performance and vibration issues until I took her out the next day to confirm that all was just fine. I say straighten it yourself, save the money for a new prop and when time and money allows send your "spare" off to be checked out by the pros. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: March-31-2012 at 1:59pm
Just to add some visual to this as I had forgotten that I had these pictures saved for future reference and stumbled across them. Syringe tool I keep in the boat for back flushing the pitot if I have one clogged while out in the water. Works 95% of the time unless I really have an obstruction in there. The other pic is where your obstruction will be if speedos are slow to respond.   ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-31-2012 at 2:11pm
| Tim, did that tubing come with the syringe? Did you buy the setup together? |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: March-31-2012 at 4:22pm
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Thanks for the pics. Gotta find some more time to work on it. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-04-2012 at 12:10am
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Morfoot I worked on the speedo this evening and now I'm able to get water to come out of the tip on the end but very little is this correct or should it flow out? Ordered my new fuel gauge and I also took two hammers and was able to straighten out the prop in about five minutes. A buddy of mine is giving me a fake a lake tomorrow for free so I'll be letting you guys know if I got the tranny fixed. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: April-04-2012 at 12:29am
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If you're using a syringe to back flush the pitot and you are getting dribbles then you've got blockage in there somewhere. Water should come flying out of there like a squirt gun. I've used a small fish hook to dig in the hole at the base or use a drill bit smaller than the hole and hand drill it till you free up the debris. Brian, the tubing was actually laying round the shop for a couple of months as someone ordered the wrong stuff. We needed hard plastic tubing for a job not rubber so I found a use for it. We use syringes all the time at work to inject resin into parts or for small applications where we use them like a baker would icicing to apply resin to small bushings or inserts where you don't want a huge mess or applying resin on parts similar to a caulk gun. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-04-2012 at 9:40pm
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Used a small bit and hand drilled as you instructed and now water come out like a jet. Was also wondering if you guys strap down the back of your boat to the trailer? I have the wench strap and added a turn buckle to the front and have been running a ratchet strap across the back but was just wondering if the back strap is needed. The guy I bought from only ran the wench strap. Funny because my third trip the strap broke away from the hook while loading due to the age of the strap. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: April-05-2012 at 12:56am
Just for clarification: Wench: Verb:to associate, especially habitually, with promiscuous women Woah.   now a winch strap I understand , and I do use one on the front of the boat. probably a part to be replaced every couple years so you don't run the risk of breakage. Also probably good to carry a spare if you are using this as your primary method of holding the boat down. |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-05-2012 at 1:19am
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Haha go figure I'd spell something wrong, but that was a funny one to get wrong. Now back on topic I'm using the winch strap. As well as two other means to keep the boat on the trailer. Is this just over kill.------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: April-05-2012 at 10:10am
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You shouldn't run the tranny when out of the water it's hard on the cutless bearing and the driveshaft seal. As for launching...I launch in a river that has a pretty good current what I found helps is don't put your trailer so deep. Back in till the fenders are just above the water, that way they will help guide the boat off and on. Once at night(in a hurry) I put it too deep and when I pulled it out the current had pushed it to one side of the trailer and it ended up on top of the edge of the fender and smashed the fender and took a chunk of gel out of the bottom edge of the boat. DON'T DO THAT!!! |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: April-05-2012 at 4:50pm
no, not overkill, I think you are on the right track wiht the winch, turn buckle and straps at the back, you should be good to go. |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 12:37am
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Put my new winch strap on this evening and installed my new fuel guage that I ordered from nautiqueparts.com Thanks for the sticker I also fired up the boat on my new free fake a lake and let it warm up and run 5-10 minutes and didn't see any leaks from the tranny. Will check again in the morning, but all still looked good 1-2 hours after running. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-11-2012 at 12:10am
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Well the tranny return hose looks to be leaking still. I can see 0/01/90 printed on the side of the hose. Do you guys think that the hose could have been made in 90? If so I'm gonna go ahead and replace both just to be safe. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-17-2012 at 1:53pm
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Replaced tranny hoses and spark plugs this past saturday. Maybe I can put it in the water this weekend to give it another go. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: defsc
Date Posted: April-17-2012 at 10:29pm
I'm also a new owner. just bought a 1969 barracuda any important things I should know about this boat? my first boat I live in Maine cant wait to get it in the water!  ------------- 1969 barracuda |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-17-2012 at 11:51pm
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Congrats on your boat. This is my first boat and I'm learning alot from all the great people on this site. The first time I put mine in the water I had to adjust he packing around the shaft because it was a pour not a drip every 7 seconds. Check for other leaks water, gas, oil and tranny fluid. Make sure prop spins freely by hand and prop shaft looks good and straight. Enjoy everyone checking out your toy... ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: defsc
Date Posted: April-18-2012 at 12:31am
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thanks. I'm having trouble trying to start a diary so i can get some pics of my boat up.every time I submit my info its saying there is some error on line 125. ------------- 1969 barracuda |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-18-2012 at 2:02pm
What part of Maine do you boat in? As far as things to know...hmmm. Make sure you've got oil in the engine, fresh gas in your tank, a charged battery. Make sure that any parts of the cooling system that were taken apart for winterization are put back together. |
Posted By: defsc
Date Posted: April-18-2012 at 7:21pm
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I boat in Acton Maine. I live in Tewksbury MA. ------------- 1969 barracuda |
Posted By: defsc
Date Posted: April-18-2012 at 10:24pm
   ------------- 1969 barracuda |
Posted By: defsc
Date Posted: April-18-2012 at 10:45pm
 ------------- 1969 barracuda |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: April-18-2012 at 11:27pm
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Looks nice. I love yellow, had a yellow silverado and Honda CBR. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: defsc
Date Posted: April-19-2012 at 12:48am
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haha I sold a yellow ATV to get this boat. I was looking for a bass boat and saw this. I've always wanted a ski boat and love the sound out of these old classics. It was completely restored like 5 years ago and the last owner kinda let it sit to long. I'm picking it up Saturday cant wait to start scrubbing it down!! ------------- 1969 barracuda |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-19-2012 at 2:06am
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Nice find, cool looking boat
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Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: April-19-2012 at 3:26pm
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That's a pretty boat. I guess that engine is a 302 or is it a 289? Showing the gaps in my knowledge. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-19-2012 at 3:28pm
It's actually a Chrysler 318 and painted the wrong color! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: crobi2
Date Posted: April-19-2012 at 3:35pm
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Hah! I knew I didn't have a clue! My first car had a 318 in it. VERY strong running motor. Been too long for me to recognize it, but I should at least have noted where the distributor is. Then, the heads/deck shape tells you it ain't GM small block. Maybe then I could of at least guessed right. Oh well, that's what happens when you start writing before thinking. ------------- C-Rob 2000 SAN |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: May-27-2012 at 12:24pm
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Hey guys thanks for all of your help. I've taken the boat out 4 or 5 times with no more leaks, but I'm noticing after making a few pulls and sitting a few minutes that the boat doesn't want to idle well and goes dead alot. Any ideas on this one would be much appreciated. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-27-2012 at 8:02pm
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Carb & ignition! Start at one end & work your way thru to the other side of the engine. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: May-27-2012 at 9:33pm
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How often should the carb be adjusted? ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-29-2012 at 12:59pm
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Tiger, I actually lost track of your setup. This is a carbureted boat? Protec ignition or traditional? |
Posted By: Tiger76
Date Posted: May-30-2012 at 7:58pm
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Carb yes. The rest I'm not sure only owned it for a few months. How do I check on the ignition? Spoke to a friend of mine that is fantastic working on cars and he said he could rebuild my carb with extra parts he had from drag racing so it would be high end stuff. ------------- 93 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-31-2012 at 12:49pm
When this happens, and it starts, do you get any black smoke? Sometimes the carbs will keep dripping after shutdown, and then load the engine up with gas. This would indicate a needle&seat issue or rebuild. Run the boat at speed, then slow down in neutral and leave it running. Open the engine cover, then remove the plastic carb cover and flame arrestor (be careful of pulleys etc.). When you can get a clear look down the barrels of the carb, shut the motor off. You should get little to no dripping out of the booster venturis. If it keeps dripping, then you're loading up with fuel and causing problems. Replacing your flame arrestor bolt with one of these http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA009145" rel="nofollow - Thumbscrews will make removing and replacing your flame arrestor much easier. |