Print Page | Close Window

starter solenoid wiring

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25225
Printed Date: May-21-2024 at 3:15am


Topic: starter solenoid wiring
Posted By: reftech
Subject: starter solenoid wiring
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 4:22pm
Hi guys I'm installing a new starter solenoid on my 351w powered 82sn. My question is about the wiring.the solenoid was wired "s" to the nss switch and "I" to ground.isn't "I" supposed to go to the + terminal of the ignition coil?



Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 4:27pm
"S" is for "start". To this post, you attach the wire for the 12v signal coming from your ignition switch (through the NSS) to energize the relay, sending current from your battery to your starter.

"I" is for ignition. This post goes to 12v at the same time the output (starter side) of the relay does. When utilized, a wire from this post would be connected to the + side of the coil, supplying the ignition with a full 12V when the starter is cranking. This is supposed to make for easier starts on a stock points ignition system, which normally supplies the coil with ~9V as a result of the ballast resistor. Several marinizers take advantage of this feature in their wiring, including Indmar. PCM, however, did NOT use it, so it is not required (and I would not suggest adding it). If you have the resistor bypassed (for EI or otherwise), this extra wire would be redundant anyways.

Wiring diagram:


-------------


Posted By: reftech
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 4:30pm
Thank u one hundred times benj u is da man!


Posted By: reftech
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 5:35pm
Good news! The motor runs! Fired off on the third try! No knocks and everything sounds good.it does have a small crack on the starboard exhaust manifold so I will use one off of the supra motor I removed.


Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 5:46pm
Good to hear


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 7:21pm
Timmy, Have you a copy of the w/d for the newest Pro Tek replacement, if not you should note the wiring for the ballast and the I term are not the same as you posted.
Now they use a 12 v coil w/ ballast and use the I term to supply 12 v at cranking, just like the old points set up.
I have put in a number of these units as per the instructions and they run and crank well w/ the reduced voltage to the module.

-------------
boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-15-2012 at 7:34pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Timmy, Have you a copy of the w/d for the newest Pro Tek replacement, if not you should note the wiring for the ballast and the I term are not the same as you posted.
Now they use a 12 v coil w/ ballast and use the I term to supply 12 v at cranking, just like the old points set up.
I have put in a number of these units as per the instructions and they run and crank well w/ the reduced voltage to the module.

Im afraid Im not following you, Doc. Are you taking issue with my written description, or the wiring diagram?

I believe both to be correct. Neither is meant to capture any of the Protec wiring used 91+, nor any of the Protec retrofit components installed on such a set up. The EI conversion noted in the diagram is in reference to the traditional EI kit that PCM branded as their own (which I believe was made by Prestolite). It is not meant to capture all possible set ups with different EI brands, as I know not all bypass the resistor. I know some Mallory's may fall into this category (unilites, in particular?). Regardless, it should work fine for the original poster's '82 PCM.

I am unaware of any "stock" PCM configurations that utilize the "I" post on the solenoid, if thats what youre suggesting... and Ive worked on a fair number of them- late 70's to early 90's. My cartoon above is consistent with the PCM diagrams, just redrawn in a format that makes it a little easier for a DIY'er to interpret, with the color coding and all. (The resistor bypass is correct for the traditional Prestolite EI kit that PCM supplied as well).

Nonetheless, feel free to educate me on the retrofit. I am not familiar with the kit that PCM supplies- are you suggesting they make use of the I terminal? Or the fact that they dont bypass the resistor? That could very well be since the kit includes a Mallory dizzy. Not sure if its their Unilite or magnetic pick up version though.

-------------



Print Page | Close Window