'80 SN Teak swim platform removal?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19607
Printed Date: May-17-2024 at 6:23am
Topic: '80 SN Teak swim platform removal?
Posted By: Wacko
Subject: '80 SN Teak swim platform removal?
Date Posted: September-29-2010 at 3:47pm
| I want to do some work on my platform over the winter and am wondering if I am better to remove the supports from the back of the boat or remove the platform from the supports? My main concern is stripping out the holes. |
Replies:
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: September-29-2010 at 4:00pm
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Platform from the supports.
Unless you want to do some work to the back of the boat. when you re apply the brackets, use 3m 5200 and maybe some cpes ------------- |
Posted By: Air206
Date Posted: September-29-2010 at 5:48pm
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Oh Man - Leave the boat brackets alone! Take it off the support brackets, much easier and much less damage potential if the supports are snug and happy now!
Steve ------------- https://tinyurl.com/y6t5e3bu" rel="nofollow - 04 Air206 http://tinyurl.com/9urzgls" rel="nofollow - 91 Barefoot 78 SkiTiq |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-29-2010 at 6:39pm
|
When I rebuilt the skier I removed the platform form the brackets and the brackets from the transom. I had to add support for the through bolts on the transom because they were spider cracking the gel since it was not original and I repainted the waterline stripe.
I lightly sanded the platform and oiled it several times to get it back to a nice color and shine. If you sand too much you will expose the tips of the screws that hold it together. I exposed one and figured I would back it out a bit since I could tell it had been buried deeper than the others. I should have taken a drill bit slightly larger than the screw head and drilled down to the head. When I went to back the screw out a huge chip popped out. I did not use cpes or 5200 on the teak, I thought I had read somewhere not to because I used it everywhere else. The holes did not seem loose at all when I put the platform back on the boat. It was almost as if the teak expands to fill the hole when you take the screw out. In fact they were pretty hard to get back in. I am interested to see what the consensus is on CPES and 5200 in the screw holes on teak. Can't imagine it would hurt. I know I read not to CPES the entire platform. Damage 
Before 
Sanded 
Thirsty 
Beauty 
------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: September-29-2010 at 7:13pm
|
Keegan, i was referring to putting cpes and 5200 in the holes of the transom if he were to take the brackets completely off.
Like Steve said, if they are snug and happy....leave them alone. I wouldn't worry about taking the platform off the brackets at all. Been oiling and wet sanding the platform on the 96 snob...its SOOOO smooth now! ------------- |
Posted By: Wacko
Date Posted: September-29-2010 at 8:59pm
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Thanks for the advise. Supports stay on the boat.
|
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 2:31pm
This is what I was thinking too after I posted. Why take it off at all? You can sand and oil it on just as easy as off. It was a lot harder to put it back on the brackets than I thought it was going to be. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
storm34 wrote:Posted By: Donald80SN
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 3:50pm
|
You can stain the Gel Coat with the teak oil if you do not remove the plateform.
Donald |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 4:02pm
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I too suggest pulling the platform off the boat. You'll never be able to clean and sand it well enough while its screwed on. Getting it real clean is key to a good job. If not, the black mold will just creap back from the sides that you can't get to. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 5:31pm
Pete I know you pointed this mold thing out to me but at the time I was trying to get the boat on the water and figured I would have all winter for detail work. To get to all the mold in between the pieces do you have to completely take it apart and sand all sides? Is there an antifungal product out there or will oiling all sides before reassembly help prevent a re-occurrence? Does this mold eventually cause structural failure or is it just a discoloration problem? Donald also makes a very valid point. The oil will definitely stain the gel. ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 5:59pm
|
Keegan,
I have mentioned it before but I happen to be a fan of pressure washing. It get's down deep into the pores BUT must be done carefully. Too much pressure and or too close with the nozzle and it tears up the wood. Taking the complete platform apart isn't needed. The pressure washer does get down between the pieces. The mold is cosmetic only. Once pressure washed and dried, the teak cleaner will go after the mold. I do not know of any anti-fungal treatment. The best oil to use is a synthetic. The Tung oils that most of the teak oils are made of is organic and the mold/fungas actually feeds off it. I went over to the marine supply one day and since the bottles of teak oil weren't very specific, I opened the caps and smelled. Tung oil has a very distinct odor. The one that smelled almost like ATF was the West brand of "Golden Teak Oil". It's held up very well. Some fading but no black scum!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Keeganino
Date Posted: September-30-2010 at 7:10pm
|
Thank goodness!! Taking that thing all the way apart would take some hours! ------------- "working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4897" rel="nofollow - 1973 Skier |