Manifold Gaskets?
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=16514
Printed Date: May-29-2024 at 1:25am
Topic: Manifold Gaskets?
Posted By: skicat2001
Subject: Manifold Gaskets?
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 3:02pm
I was wondering when should you have your manifold gaskets serviced? I was talking to someone on this, said that it could be possible for them to rust due to water staying in the manifolds. And then water can eventually after a while if not serviced, water can shoot into the engine, and not out the exhaust where it needs to go. I was told too, that to see if, you pull the 2 spark plugs in the middle of each side, and see water, you could then see your manifold gaskets need to be replaced.What is the deal on this?  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Replies:
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:33pm
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stop talking to that person, they have no clue.
The water jacket on the exhaust is completely sealed and can only go out the top thru the riser, so if you pull a spark plug and see water then the manifold is cracked and needs replaced or you have a cracked head or blown head gasket. The exhaust manifold gasket only needs replaced if it is leaking exhaust fumes which you should be able to hear very easily. So unless you can hear and feel the exhaust coming out one of the runners where they meet the head, leave them alone. Very bad info you recieved not even close to reality. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:37pm
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Im guessing he's talking about manifold riser gaskets. Yes, those should be replaced if they show any signs of leaking as they can lead to the problems you described. ------------- |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:40pm
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Thanks Chris,
I apperciate the advice. I had a funny feeling about manifolds gaskets needed to be replaced every so often. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:43pm
TR, Yes sir, thats the part. By looking at the manifolds, if you see water rust lines, then they are do. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 4:52pm
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Thats correct. If you see rust stains then they should be replaced. While water leaking from the water jackets to the exterior isnt a problem, there is a good chance theyre leaking to the inside as well- which is a problem. ------------- |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:07pm
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TR,
Ok, i will check those. thanks ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:14pm
guess I'm used to refering to it as a riser gasket and not a manifold gasket. But one other thing when you replace them make sure that the surface is flat on the mainfold and riser before you put them back together. Otherswise you'll still have a leak. For reference the front passage is blocked off when you install the new riser gaskets. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:32pm
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they need to be sanded all the way down to the metal and flat, correct. Then place the new gasket on top and place manifold back on. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 5:52pm
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I would scrape off the gasket then lay a straight edge on the surface to check for flatness, If it needs to be trued up then use a hard flat block to wrap the sand paper around to make sure you keep it straight and flat as your sanding it down.
You want to check both surfaces, the mainfold and the riser. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 6:11pm
Uh, I dont think so. SkiDIM says to block of the back (outlet side). http://skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1109 - http://skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1109 Makes sense, as the outlet side is lower and would be the path of least resistance- so the top wouldnt get sufficient flow. By blocking it, water is forced to the top of the riser and allowed to spill down. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 6:58pm
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my fault thought it was the front as that is the entry port for the water and it wouldn't get to back of the manifold.
thanks for the correction Tim. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 7:33pm
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That makes since... I will work on mine this weekend. I will use a leveler to make sure both ends are flat and even. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-11-2010 at 10:03pm
Lee, See if you can find a decent straight edge like the steel ruler off a combination square. I'm not too sure what you mean by a "leveler" but it doesn't sound too precise of a edge to me. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 7:03pm
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Lee
when addressing this task, you might end up with some broken bolts, specially the back ones that are longer(at least they are in mine). They tend to rust and freeze in there and when unbolting them then break, It hapenned to me. squirt some PB blaster and hit them with a hammer to loosen them, and then unbolt them slowly. ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-16-2010 at 9:37pm
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Sebastian,
Thanks for telling me about those bolts. I got not room for error on doing that. I am going to check those out this weekend. I hope it is not a difficult job. If it seems to be to diffucult, I have someone that said they would put new gaskets and file that down where it needs to be. Said it would cost a couple 100.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 12:50pm
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If I was you I would save that couple 100 and order the gaskets and do it yourself, it's a very simple job. The hardest part is getting the exhaust hose off and you don't actually have to remove it but it is much easier if you do.
You'll need a box end wrench, the thinner it's wall is the better, to get the bolts out, a putty knife/gasket scraper to remove the gasket and a striaght edge and sanding block and paper to square it up if it needs it. Once you get it loose then you can use the open end part of the wrench you run the risk of rounding off the head if you start with the open end first then it's a real bear to remove if that happens, so be sure and have a good quality box end wrench to use. But all you have to do is soak the bolt heads with PB balster or simular liquid wrench type oil, spray the gap too. Then remove the four bolts attaching the riser to the mainfold. If a bolt is being stuborn go slow and respray the bolt with the PB blaster ever turn or so to help it along and to prevent breakage. It takes a little time because you can only get a half turn or so out of it due to no space to swing the wrench much further so don't be in a hurry. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 1:02pm
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It's not a hard job, if the bolts are still hard to remove after soaking and tapping turn it in (tighten) just a little to help clear the threads and install new bolts too. ------------- - waterdog - http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3896&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - 78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 2:48pm
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Chris and Andy,
Yes sir thanks a bunch for that info. I will use it this weekend. I am getting those new gaskets tom, and will do the job saturday morning. PB Blaster i guess you can get at any marine store or hardware store? ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 3:55pm
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Lee,
Glad to see you're going to try this yourself. The $200 sounds pretty steep! Was it quoted to you by the same person that said the gaskets should be changed? The PB can be found at almost any store - even Walmart. I find that Kroil is better but that's only available direct on line plus you would need to wait for it. I'd like to reinforce Chris on the importance of getting a high quality box wrench in there. A "top shelf" wrench will have a slimmer cross section to get onto the bolt head in the tight area of the rear bolts but also be strong (high quality forged). A 6 point wrench would be best but I don't feel you would get the swing needed so use a 12 point. Borrow one if you don't already have a good set. Do not try to use a open end wrench. You know there's always someone around here incase you run into a problem. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 4:17pm
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As Pete pointed out the wrench makes a hugh difference on this job the standard Craftsman wrench won't work usually because there's too much metal on the wrench. They do carry a proffessional grade wrench and by the looks of it it should work fine and you do want a 12pt too. I have snap-on wrenchs and they'll work fine, matco's too. I would start with what you have and see if the wrench fits squarely on the bolt head on all four bolts on both sides and if it does then your good if not then you'll see what we are refering too with a clearance issue. i don't remember but I beleive you can get a couple of them off with a socket but maybe not it's been some time since i took one apart. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 4:46pm
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Pete and Chris,
alright.. so I Can find that PB Blaster at Wal-Mart.. Great my favorite store.. I get that today. On this 6 point or 12pt metal wrench, you say with a 12 pt i will not get enough swing for the rear bolts. Will I need both these wrenches to do the job, or will the 6 pt do it ok. Sounds like the hard part is the rear bolts. Which one is better? And which brand you guys like best, I might pick one up, and keep for the future.. Chris mentioned metco..  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 4:55pm
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i think i have a 6 but not a 12.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 4:58pm
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it was MATCO BTW, you don't want the 6 point box end wrench you'll have trouble finding one to start with most are 12 pt.
Choice's Snap-on Matco Mac Sear's professional series. so really your limited to sears to be honest just make sure it's the professional series, it'll be smoother and shinnier than the stand forged wrenches they sell. If you have a friend that is a mechanic then one of the professional tool salemen might call on them weekly so you might be able to pick one up that way since they are usually sold off of trucks and not in a store. the six point limits the angle that you can actually fit the wrench on the bolt's hex head so it might take a bit longer using it but if that is what you have and it's thin enough in the right area then there really isn't a need to buy a new one then just make do with what you have. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 5:22pm
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Lee,
If you do have a 6 point, see if it will fit and use it at least to break the bolt loose. I wouldn't say they are difficult to find but yes harder to find. Chris is correct that the 12 point is more common. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Behl
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 5:30pm
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Question - Having never changed mine. Want to know if a thin-wall 12pt socket on an extension would work? ------------- Steve in Indy http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1702&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - Redone 1977 Ski Tique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 5:34pm
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Steve, Good Question?!
ok, i will see if i can find a 12 pt wrench some place, chris said sears.. I hope they got one.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 5:46pm
Steve,I It's the two bolts on the aft end of a riser style manifold. They are in a pocket in the side of the casting so no you can't get a socket on them. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 5:51pm
just make sure it's the professional model look at it online first so you know what the two look like, the one you want is polished and not a rough cast looking wrench which is the standard Craftsman wrench ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 5:54pm
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How bout these?
http://home.pronto.com/mpm/pa-12-pt-wrench/aq-_SIZE_12-_USIZE_point_pint_port-_HN_wrench/c-v1_11_107_670?adid=s10-173-6037-10_gs ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 6:06pm
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When were the riser changed was it 90 or 91? newer style have the bolts on top of the riser which makes them easier to remove..but the back ones are to long and thin that eventually if the rust they can break... ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 6:12pm
the kleins are junk not sure on the other they might be ok but hard to tell with out looking at them. The wall thickness on the round box end part of the wrench is what your looking at and the thinner the better. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: tullfooter
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 7:12pm
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After reading this thread, I ordered a set of riser gaskets this morning. I've seen the light rust streaking down the sides of the manifolds, but didn't see any signs of actual leaking. It doesn't seem like a difficult task, so what the heck. I haven't seen my boat for over a month, so this gives me an excuse to make a visit (she's 8 miles away, in my brother's garage). I should be al set with the wrench choices. I think our companies mechanic has more Snap-On tools, than the Snap-On truck that visits. ------------- Play hard, life's not a trial run. '85 BFN '90 BFN White Lake, Michigan |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 7:15pm
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hey tull, get some pictures while you do the job!!!
they´ll rise up the interest of the thread!! more if comming from a BBC  ...
kapla ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-17-2010 at 7:28pm
Ok, i will stay away from kleinns then.. looking for a more thicker wrench. so if I can recall, on these 85 nautiques, there is 4 bolts, right.. 2 n front, and 2 n rear. Loosen all, pull exhaust manifold off, lift and then be carefull with rear bolts because the way they are attached or connected. Then manifold risers and gaskets come off, clean, replace and then put back.. Correct! :)  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-18-2010 at 2:56pm
wrong you want a thinner wall for this application. Thicker is going to get you into trouble and not allow the wrench to fit on the hex because it'll hit the casting. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: February-18-2010 at 4:32pm
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Don't totally freak out when you see these streaks.
This is an area where hot and cold come together. Condensation + cast iron. |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 3:20pm
Worked on the boat yesterday afternoon.. I apperciate the great advice you guys gave me on this job. I performed it correctly, and had no problems repairing. It makes it easy when you have the right tools.. Now just waiting on gaskets to get here, and finish getting those rust stains off.. Thanks guys!!  ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 4:44pm
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don't tighten the bolts dowm all of the way untill you have them all started and ran down pretty close leave a couple threads so that you can move the riser around a little if you have a clearance issue with the wrench. It doesn't hurt to use a little hy-tac to help hold the gasket in place and running a bolt or two through opposite corners on the riser to aid alignment when your going back together.
Now if all of the bolts came out fairly easily then just use new bolts going back in and your good. But if a couple where a little tight chase the threads before you install the new bolts to clean up the threads. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 4:56pm
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Chris,
Yea bolts where pretty easy on coming out. I bought the boat in 05, it must have been done then before I got the boat. The hard part was taking the exhaust hoses off..  They made me feel like that.. lol Saturday I will have the new gasket and put back toghter. So you are saying, when I put back toghter, do not tighten all bolts down, and check the threads. Should I spray w-d-40 for preventive rust again. Or something else my friend... ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:06pm
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You did get new bolts correct? you don't want to use the old ones unless they are in really good shape and look close to new condition.
You don't want to use WD-40 or any thing on the threads some will say apply anti-seze to the threads first, I personally feel it's not needed if you are using stainless steel bolts, last time I bought the kit from chamberlain's that had new bolts and gasket for the manifold and risers. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:16pm
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Chris,
Yea they came with a kit I bought from Houston Water Sports. The bolts that came with the kit where not stainless steel though.. If I need too, I can find those pretty easily.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:31pm
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Remember to cross-tighten the bolts- I think the torque is 22 or 24 ft-lb. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:43pm
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Lee,
There's nothing really wrong with a decent grade of carbon steel bolt as long as you get some never-seize on the threads and they are a grade 5 or better. Actually, I would prefer a grade 5 (or 8) carbon over the stainless just because of their stength. A grade 5 has a tensile of 120,000 psi whereas a 18-8 or 316 grade of stainless is only 70,000 psi. I've broken too many stainless bolts to know that you only want to use them in bad corrosive environments. Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out! BTW, give the WD40 to your wife to use around the house on things like a squeeky hinge. It's not the greatest stuff around and more "hype" than anything. Most of it evaporates leaving you with nothing! (that hinge will squeek again Too!!) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:58pm
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Hey Pete,
I will see if those are a 5 or better.. If not I will pick some up.. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 8:24pm
hey pete by any chance you got a picture of the menctioned marks the bolts should have to identify them? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 8:41pm
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Seb,
Here's a grade 5 with the 3 radial marks. 
And grade 8 with the 6 marks  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skicat2001
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 9:44pm
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Saturday morning went poking around through my nuts and bolt collection, and if hot damb if I didnt find a grade 5 bolt to finish my manifolds and gaskets job. I was pleased, and finished the job late saturday night. My boat is ready to go, all winter projects are done.. Thanks guys.. After seeing those pics at the St John Run over the weekend, I am ready put mine in the water.. O yea, almost done with winter projects, got to finish sanding my platform and teak oil it. Do that this weekend. ------------- 1985 CC 2001-SOLD Lee Michael Johnson |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:22pm
thanks pete
now are those marks standarized or universal, or every bolt maker put its own marking? ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: February-23-2010 at 9:02am
They are standard SAE markings for the inch system. Every graded hex head cap screw will have them. However, if no markings, then they will be a grade 2 (or lower) - fine for general use when strength isn't important. Metrics have different markings. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |