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Faded dash (black)

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1610
Printed Date: May-09-2024 at 12:19pm


Topic: Faded dash (black)
Posted By: richardsoncd
Subject: Faded dash (black)
Date Posted: May-05-2005 at 7:27pm
Anyone have advice on bringing a black faded dash on a late 70's tique back to life?



Replies:
Posted By: Brad_K
Date Posted: May-06-2005 at 7:25am
The dash on my 1980 barsfoot was pretty fadded, i used a colour restoring polish and then a wax and it came out pretty well.


Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-06-2005 at 2:48pm
If that does not work, then color sand the gelcoat and polish. Start with 400 and work up to 600 minimum or 900 best. Use a rigid sanding block when working with 400 grit (not rubber) to avoid creating low spots. Use wet/dry sand paper with plenty of soapy water. Then use a course rubbing compound with electric buffer (not cheap polisher like you can buy at Home Depot). Follow with wax.

Incidently, I would suggest you remove the windsheild to have better access and avoid leaving unsanded spots. Also remove mirrors, glove box lids, instrument panels, etc. as applicable.


Posted By: richardsoncd
Date Posted: May-06-2005 at 4:33pm
Thanks for the advice. I will let you know.


Posted By: nautique frk
Date Posted: May-07-2005 at 1:34pm
I just helped a friend redo a 1976 Ski Nautique and we used 3m products heavy oxidation remover and then 3m finess it , It looks like a million bucks .
Mike


Posted By: Suds
Date Posted: June-09-2005 at 9:28pm
Aqua-Buff, 2 step process.

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Later,
Suds


Posted By: 80nauts
Date Posted: June-10-2005 at 9:20am
buff it


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Posted By: 82tique
Date Posted: June-11-2005 at 2:14am
David F-

Just curious why you always advise using a wood sanding block rather than a rubber block?


Posted By: 80nauts
Date Posted: June-11-2005 at 10:07pm
Sanding is not exactly the cool way to go. Use this buffer http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46507 and some 3M heavy ox remover on the 1st or second setting. After that finish out with the other steps of 3M process or cheat by using their finish restoring bottle which buffs and waxes.

I had a friend wet sanded most of his boat and he wanted to beat himself up whe realized the time and result benefits of using the buffer setup.

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Posted By: NAUTI84
Date Posted: June-12-2005 at 12:23pm
richardsoncd,
My 84 has the black dash.
Alot of times it looks faded/water spots/etc.
Last year I went over my entire hull with:
1st - 50/50 Water & Vinegar - Then rinsed.
2nd - Penetrol - Really brought the black dash back! (just be careful around any Pinstripes/Decals.)
3rd - Fineshed off w/ Lemon Pledge - Really shines it up.



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=421&yrstart=1981&yrend=1985 - EX-NAUTI84


Posted By: nates78ski
Date Posted: June-12-2005 at 7:18pm
Remove windshield, gauges, prep for paint, repaint with PPG concept paint, reassemble looks like a million bucks and all i do is keep the dust off it. This seems like a lot of work but the results are great. Also faded gelcoat just will not retain gloss for very long.

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Nathan
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1463&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1978&yrend=1978" rel="nofollow - My '78 Ski Nautique

<a href="http://photobucket.com/Nates78ski" rel="nofoll


Posted By: David F
Date Posted: June-13-2005 at 2:38pm
82tique:

Rubber sanding blocks will follow imperfections in the surface and accentuate them. If you use a rigid sanding block, then you will remove the high spots and glide over the low spots and not make the low spots deeper.

Also with rubber, if uneven pressure is applied, then you can start a wavy surface by digging in then the process mentioned above starts.


Posted By: 82tique
Date Posted: June-13-2005 at 5:05pm
Dave F-

Thanks....makes good sense.



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