Which 3M product?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15595
Printed Date: May-07-2024 at 4:42am
Topic: Which 3M product?
Posted By: storm34
Subject: Which 3M product?
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:02pm
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Hey guys, I started wetsanding the deck of the Ski Tique yesterday and am very happy with the results. I started with 800 then moved to 1000 but have yet to get all the way around the entire deck.
I want to get some materials ordered for the rubbing compound since I can't find anything marine around here. What do you all suggest as my next step? Go up to 1200 or 1500 or a rubbing compound that cuts 1000grit? http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7_nid=GSNHRT84LXbe9NQK7NZ8TZgl - Use 3M? |
Replies:
Posted By: DrCC
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:09pm
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Chris, I would have skipped all the wet sanding and hit it with 3M heavy duty polishing comp. then some 3M Glazing comp. JMO
AT |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:26pm
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Alan, I was going to but didn't have anything ordered and wanted to get going!
I also had some paint lines like you'd find on a hot rod around the deck so I wanted to get rid of that and see if I could get the color to come back without being able to see those lines. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:31pm
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Chris, heres what I suggest:
wetsand 800, 1000, 1200 3M Super Duty Compound on a 1" pile wool pad, 2x 3M Perfect-It II Compound on a 1.5" pile wool pad, 1x 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (this is a polish) on a wool/acrylic blend polishing pad, 2x Collinites 925 wax, by hand with a microfiber cloth I get all my 3M stuff and Lake Country pads from http://smartshoppersinc.com/ - Smart Shoppers. They have the best prices that Ive found and carry everything you'll need, save for the wax (available at Napa or ebay). You definitely need a good rotary polisher for this stuff. With your fleet Id invest in a Dewalt 849 or the Milwaukee equivalent. If you want more info (part numbers, etc), let me know. This process has worked wonders for every boat Ive used it on. ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:44pm
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Awesome, Thanks Tim. I've got a nice rotary polisher down here, not sure the make or model but I'll get some pics up this afternoon or evening.
Did you get anything in the mail yet Tim? Should be there soon if not. ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:49pm
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Chris, I had you send it to my parents house- will be back there this weekend. Thanks again!
On the rotary polisher, just make sure it is a variable speed, or at least can spin in the 2000 RPM range. Thats about where you need it to work for the 3 products listed above. One more thing- you'll need a backing plate to match the style of pads youre using. All of my stuff is hook and loop (velcro). ------------- |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 3:54pm
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That sounds exactly like what I've got. I'll get some stuff ordered today!
I still can believe how much of a difference there is between the stuff I've wetsanded thus far! ------------- |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: October-15-2009 at 5:08pm
I tried taking the easy route like you're suggesting, since my gel wasn't in terrible shape at all, just light oxidation. But I've got to disagree with this, after I finished the compound just didn't cut thru the oxidized layer enough. Definitely hit it with some wetsanding, as I will be doing later. And I have also ordered from Smartshoppersinc like Tim posted, very good company, and they shipped extremely fast, pleasure to do business with them. No online ordering however, just give them a call and they'll hook you up  ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
DrCC wrote:Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 6:52pm
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regarding wet sanding, what type of sanding block do you guys use?? ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-23-2009 at 8:18pm
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Nick,
On flat surfaces I always use a hard bloc. It can be a simple block of wood. You'll get better leveling with it in case there are some minor high spots in the gel. Inside radius's I will still use a hard block. I have varying sizes of wood dowel rods. Outside radius's are the only place I may use a rubber block but I find just my hand and palm work good too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-24-2009 at 11:37am
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if you can afford it, use a DA with Hook-it sanding discs, and gradually work up to 1500 grit, use soap in the bucket or a spray bottle with the water and soap mixed ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 5:09pm
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If your going to spend the money on a DA, buy a hutchins. By far the best out there for finish work. IMHO ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 11:11pm
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have 2 in the collection and your on the money, hutchins are second to none ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Okie Boarder
Date Posted: October-26-2009 at 3:01pm
| Did the same sort of process back in the spring on my Supra. I started with 1000 grit on the wetsand, then followed almost exactly what TRBenj listed (except I used a different wax). All good products and a god process. Mine was pretty heavily oxidized and it came out really good when it was all done. Let me know if you want to see pictures for inspiration ;-) |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: October-26-2009 at 11:15pm
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I have 1 with the handle on, 1 with the handle off... 2 DA's are better than 1. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-27-2009 at 10:32am
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Andy, i bought one new in the box for 20 bucks. alot of guy's walk in selling stuff....but your right, i took the handle off one of them and like using it that way.....do you have a mud hog? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: October-28-2009 at 5:16am
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Sure do! Ever light bondo dust on fire in front of someone that has no clue? Hehe. I used to have the Hutchins Hustler, but I think I grew legs. Since I'm now a plumber, I haven't needed to replace it. You a gravity fed guy? 20 bucks. You oughtta be slapped for taking advantage of the mentally incompetant. Ever use dx 55 for heavy buffing? ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-28-2009 at 10:32am
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my family has always owned Bodyshops and i grew up around them, never took much interest though and went more towards the greasy side. we use guns now that are like baby bottles with a plastic liner, no waste and very little cleaning. Also the paint companies are switching to water base believe it or not to shoot cars, we have a mix station and a blackhawk? drive on to yank.
bodywork gives me incentive to get my own work so i dont have to do bodywork lol. my 21 year old nephew has it in his blood, he can lay down the paint ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: October-28-2009 at 9:25pm
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I've had to use the waterbased stuff a few times. I still get to play in the booth from time to time. I've got a few good friends with shops. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: Andy
Date Posted: October-28-2009 at 9:40pm
 crappy pic, but I still had fun.------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3721&sort=&pagenum=6&yrstart=1982&yrend=1982" rel="nofollow - My Blue 82 SOLD! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 10:21am
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nice... i thought it was a bike fender at first, then at a closer look i realized it was a mail box. you better lag bolt that one down ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 10:23am
he was 20 when he did this one ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 10:54am
Hopefully the new water based paints will keep the solvent out of his blood, unlike the isocyanate enamels I used to use! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 11:42am
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it stinks so bad you have to wear a mask lol ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-29-2009 at 12:21pm
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[/QUOTE] And I have also ordered from Smartshoppersinc like Tim posted, very good company, and they shipped extremely fast, pleasure to do business with them. No online ordering however, just give them a call and they'll hook you up [/QUOTE]
I've ordered several items from here good prices and quick shipping. Best price on 303 fabric guard and collinite that I've found. They also have pads and polishers. http://www.autogeek.net/boatandrv.html - http://www.autogeek.net/boatandrv.html |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 10:32am
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along with lighting bondo dust, we'll sneak behind someone and fill a styrofoam cup with oxy acetylene and hit it with the torch. m-80 worth of noise. guys use to fill garbage bags full and tie a rope to it and light the rope...those woold rattle the windows.
I told this story before, as i was walking into a shop my brother ran, a guy was mig welding on top of a empty 55 gallon drum that held laquer thinner, it blew out a couple windows, alot of the cieling tiles, started a car on fire and put him out of work for a couple weeks, the ends of the drum were now rounded...after that we called the guy boom boom ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Peter Gullen
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 10:53am
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Does anyone know of a site that explains the differences between all the 3M products? Im having a hard time working out which is best, lots of sites sell different model numbers and have slightly different wording, for example ive got 3M finesse it finishing material, is this the same as finesse it II finishing material? Are there different types of finishing material, whats the difference between finesse-it and perfect-it? Also do i need to spray water to keep it from burning or is that just for when compounding?
Thanks, peter ------------- 93 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 12:10pm
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use, 3m perfect-it 3000, part number 06063 rubbing compound...you wont go wrong ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Peter Gullen
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 12:30pm
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Thanks, im limited to what my local shop carries, which is not a lot, and can only find different types online in the uk, and with postage ends up being very expensive. I was hoping to find a chart or something detailing the entire product range so i can see if what my local shop carries is worth buying. All the bottles seem to say roughly the same thing but with slightly different wording and differeent part numbers.They dont carry the finesse it II, only the finesse it, and i wondered what the difference was. I will check and see if they have the perfect it 3000. Is there really that much difference between all the similar products?
I would like to use 3M stuff because of all the good reviews about it here, but it seems like its is not as widely used here in the uk. ------------- 93 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: October-30-2009 at 5:12pm
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Peter have a look at this link, its not 3M I have found its easier to use less smeary than 3M so quicker with a sharper shine.
Give them a call to see who sells it near you. You may need these when you finish 
http://www.farecla.com/profile-products.html - farecla ------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: October-31-2009 at 12:45pm
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the cheaper it is the more work you have to do. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: June-08-2011 at 9:22pm
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Can I use an orbital polisher/buffer for this type of work? I have a Craftsman 10" that use for polish/wax/buff on my cars. Or so I need to get a different tool for this gel coat work? What is the difference? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: June-08-2011 at 10:34pm
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That's OK! You'll just have bigger forearms for your wife to hold onto after you get done with all that buffin'!
The gel-coat is very forgiving--not like car paint! Don't forget the PICS! Before, During, and AFTER!  ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-08-2011 at 10:57pm
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Kevin,
The Crapsman orbital will probably not do the job. If you are planning on doing allot of compounding out wet sanding scratches, you'll need a true buffer. That orbital is best for waxing if that!!! Sorry but I DO NOT care for the brand!!!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: June-08-2011 at 11:52pm
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OK. The orbital buffer was a gift and it does a fine job of waxing my cars, but it is a very simple and basic machine. I'll so some tool shopping. The DeWalt 849 still the tool of choice for us home-use guys? Is there anywhere that sells a "package" deal that would have the tool and all these various pads that I'm going to need? I see there are some packages on eBay, but who knows what quality or brand the pads are. Might just pick up a used one from eBay and source the pads from elsewhere. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: September-06-2011 at 11:34am
| I see that Hutchins makes a lot of DAs. Can anyone tell me which model is the best all around for wet sending boat gel coat finishes? I have done it by hand with a block in the past. |
Posted By: AussieNorts
Date Posted: September-07-2011 at 4:07am
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Would you guys recommend this process for a boat that is not heavily oxidised, 1997 model? It has just lost the shine in the high traffic areas, over the back from swim platform into the boat and around the nose hand rails etc.. ------------- Correct craft.....is there any other boat? |
Posted By: Nevergrew
Date Posted: September-07-2011 at 8:24am
Mate, by the sounds of it, it just needs a good buff with a variable speed sander/polisher machine. You can get some cutters from your local marine shop. I've recently finished a full gel sand below my gunnel rubber from 320 to 1500 grit paper and finished it off with two types off buffing, an extra cut, then a superfine cut. The brand I used was Ronstan. Available at my local Biasboating store. Don't be afraid to attack the gelcoat. It's as tough as anything. 
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: September-07-2011 at 9:48am
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I own 2 Hutchins, anyone that does this stuff professionally owns one, the gel will kick your ass before you kick its....I'll grab the model numbers ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 2:44pm
I have several questions for Tim or anyone else about the buffing procedure. I have been using 3M Marine Rubbing Compound (09004), followed by 3M Marine Color/Gloss Restorer (09089). The rubbing compound works well, but is pretty aggressive and leaves the expected buffing scratches in the gel. The color restorer seems to have very little abrasive in it, and is unable to remove the extremely small scratches from the surface after the rubbing compound. I end up having a very nice glossy surface, but if you examine it very closely you will see the very fine scratches from the compound. It is similar to what you commonly see on a very glossy black car. Since it is a creme colored boat you have to look hard to see them, but they're there. I am thinking of trying the procedure described above to get a totally glass like finish, but I would like to know which backing pads I need for the described pads. There are several listed on smartshopper.com, but I don't want to buy the wrong ones being that they are nearly $50 each. BTW, I really don't want to wet sand the gel. It is in very good condition and I don't want to remove the slight "print through" from the woven roving. It shows that the boat was laid up that way and reminds me of a fine carbon fiber bicycle frame. I believe that wet sanding it would remove this feature as it is very subtle. It's presence separates this from a chop gun lay up. It's not that I don't like and sometimes prefer chop gun layups, but this boat is what it is and I want to keep it that way. Any help is appreciated, my finish skills are not up to the experience some of you have. Go Chicago Beers, tonight! ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 3:07pm
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trizac on your final wetsand, its the *************** ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 4:17pm
Eric, I haven't been wet standing as mentioned above. I have been using only the puffing & polishing compounds. I am afraid that wet standing or any type of blocking will remove the print through. Do you know if it will? ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 4:17pm
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John, Im not familiar with the particular 3M products youre using, but I understand your issue. What you need to make sure happens is that each successive round of finishing (whether it be sanding or buffing) removes the scratches left in the surface by the previous round. For the same reason you cant skip from using 220 grit right to 1000 (without spending a LOT of time at 1000), you need to make gradual steps from most aggressive to least aggressive. While sanding, you can use a tracer to make sure that all previous scratches are gone prior to moving on to the next grit... but with buffing, you need to carefully select the products youre using, as well as the pads that youre applying them with to ensure that happens.
It sounds like you would benefit from using an intermediate step between the 2 youre currently using. The steps I laid out are a pretty well proven solution- Ive used it on a number of boats with great success, as have a few other friends here (including both Brad and Bruce, who habitually take home best in class at the NE reunions). ------------- |
Posted By: john b
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 4:52pm
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That is the problem I am having, Eric. I think I will go to your system. Is this the back up pad I should be using with these products?
3M™ Hookit SBS Backup Pad Designed to be used with 3M Compounding Pads PN's 05711, 05719 and all Hookit type foam pads) Designed to be used with 3M Polishing Pads PN's 05713 and all Hookit foam pads. Part # Description UPS Each Truck Each 05717 Backup Pad; 1 per case $ 49.00 $ 47.00 ------------- 1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox" If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-10-2012 at 5:14pm
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That 3M backing plate may work, but the Milwaukee one I have is much cheaper:
http://www.coastaltool.com/a/milwaukee/polisher_7.htm - Coastal Tool I might also try the 7.5" wool/poly blend "finishing pad" shown on that same page, as the wool/acrylic Lake Country pad from Smart Shoppers seems to be discontinued. The part numbers on the compounding pads from Smart Shoppers are: 41-325 (Super Duty Compound) 41-725 (intermediate compound) ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique2001
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 9:02pm
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I'm reviving this post to get all prepared to wetsand a gasoline stain on my transom. Looks very soaked into the gel coat and will definitely need some wetsanding. Silly question, but with wetsanding, do you literally keep the sanding pad wet the whole entire time while using the buffer? Do you mix in soap or other agents? Sound pretty simple with starting with the lower grit number working up to the highest number. I was scoping out cheap sanding/buffing tools are Harbor Freight Tools for $50. All the 3m products look awesome. What grit paper is ok to buff over the graphics without eating them up? Ken ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1052&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 9:42pm
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ken, When wet sanding, the paper must be wet all the time. The water flushes the fines (sanding dust) out of the paper. No soap or wetting agent is needed even though some do use it. The HF may work for awhile but to me is not the best investment. Buy quality and it will last and pay for itself. Here's also am interesting statement from Eric:
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 9:47pm
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Ken, you can't sand over graphics or pinstripe. Sanding should be done by HAND. Yes, keep the paper wet. A little bit of dish soap in your water bucket is ok. ------------- |
Posted By: Dreaming
Date Posted: March-28-2013 at 10:16pm
| I have found a spray bottle to be very helpful in wetsanding... a bucket is good too, but i find that I spray (clean) more often when I have a spray bottle. |
Posted By: Nautique2001
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 11:06am
Thanks for all the advice. Tim, you don't recommend using a buffer on a fuel stain the size of a bowling ball on the transom? Should I start with 400 or 600 on a fuel stain. Do you use some sort of block if doing it by hand? Do I go in circular motions? I just can't wrap by brain around putting a piece of sandpaper to gel coat!! Maybe I'll take a trip to Goshen  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1052&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 11:33am
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You may want to make the trip, I think you're still struggling to grasp the concepts here, ha. Only block if using an aggressive grit, say 400 and below. You shouldn't need to be that aggressive. Do all sanding by hand. You still need the buffer and pads for all the compounding and polish. That part comes after the sanding. ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique2001
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 11:52am
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I'm about as schooled in this as I am with brain surgery. I would be pretty pumped to swing by Lake Benjamin for some help with this. I pay with cases of beer. Let me know when you have spare time between your projects and I'll swing by! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1052&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 12:07pm
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Do you have all the compounds and polishes? My supply is low. I've got everything else. Maybe get together once the weather turns? ------------- |
Posted By: Nautique2001
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 1:09pm
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Tim, I'll purchase all the necessary supplies. I believe one of your posts tells exactly what to have. I just don't have an orbital tool. Maybe sometime in May will work as the weather starts to improve. In the meantime I'll get the GT40 all tuned up. I greatly appreciate you helping me get started with this project! My next project is having the windshield removed and the frame repainted. Seeking out local body shops who can strip and paint aluminum. I assume they would powder coat it? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1052&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 3:14pm
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May sounds good. Powder is more specialized and may require a specialized coating place. I use a guy in east Hartford. ------------- |
Posted By: dip
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 3:40pm
| The reason to use soap is it lubricates and breaks the surface tension of the water allowing a more consistent scratch pattern. The more consistent your scratch pattern the easier it is to sand them out the next round. I like Murphy's Oil soap, probably because it smells good. You only need a little bit (a tablespoon maybe) in a spray bottle. |
Posted By: Nautique2001
Date Posted: March-29-2013 at 4:37pm
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Tim, maybe we can touch base mid April? I'm working on the windshield project soon. Hopefully it's an easy thing to disassemble! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1052&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - Nautique 2001 |
Posted By: Mcdees84
Date Posted: May-23-2020 at 4:32pm
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Bumping an old thread. Read through this and know what I want to do to remove some minor oxidation but have a question regarding the decals. I have a DA Dewalt polisher and I’m worried what it might do to the decals while using 3M compound. Will it white them out, rip them off, do nothing to them? Should I just hand apply the compound around the decals? Thanks! Matt Edit-no one answered so I made a new post and someone responded. Avoiding the decals with the polisher and will hand polish those areas. Figured I’d share in case someone like me comes along later and needs this answer. |