winterizing your nautique
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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
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URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15484
Printed Date: April-26-2024 at 4:32pm
Topic: winterizing your nautique
Posted By: mkoppel25
Subject: winterizing your nautique
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 11:00pm
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What all do you do to winterize your nautique. I get so many different stories of what to do and what not to do. I live in Ohio and i have to protect it from freezing.
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Replies:
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 11:30pm
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Welcome to the site. There are several links / Topis / Threads on the matter just do a topic search. You came to the right place for tec support the guys here know thier stuff. I would post the link for you, but that feature is acting funny. ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-04-2009 at 11:54pm
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Mk - Nice to have another female member - We will help you sort thru the myths.
The most important step to winterizing is to drain the water jackets & hoses so you don't have to replace the engine next year. Even if you do nothing else, this step alone will avoid serious damage. If you have a standard direct drive PCM engine, then there are 5 threaded plugs to remove, plus the oil cooler hose & water strainer. After these points are drained, adding antifreeze (either RV type or 50/50 ethylene gycol car type)is done by pouring into the thermostat input hose. Some guys like to run the engine & use the pump to draw the antifreeze in, but that is not needed. Adding oil to the cylinders & gas stabilzer to the fuel are also recommended, but not crucial. This is all detailed with photos in the owners manuals found in the reference section. Let us know if you get stuck; don't wait until the night of a big freeze to get started! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: October-05-2009 at 5:29am
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mk
Welcome to the site. Chris covered just about everything above. You probably want to do an oil change at the same time so you don't have the old oil sitting in the engine all winter and it's probably a good time to change the transmission oil also. Where you at in Ohio? I think I'm going to winterize next weekend, it's getting cold here in the Akron/Canton area. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SN206
Date Posted: October-05-2009 at 5:51am
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Was planning on leaving mine in a heated shop so not to have to mess with it and still be able to use it from time to time thru the winter, but would I have to doing anything different having a inter-cooler? ------------- ...those who have fallen and those who will. |
Posted By: 87ccsn2001
Date Posted: October-07-2009 at 9:40pm
| please name the 5 threaded plugs, 1 on each exhaust manifold, 1 on each side of block , and 1 on the raw water pump, that makes 5, was I right?, do you have a drain on the circulating water pump? I know where the water strainer is, but where is the oil cooler? not sure, thanks |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 1:04am
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The 5th plug is on the U-tube next to the raw water pump. There is no drain on the circulating pump. The oil cooler is a cylinder looking thing on the rear port side of the engine. It has two hoses going to the tranny. The easiest way to drain the oil cooler is to unhook the lower hose. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 11:38am
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=8368&title=winterization - This thread has pictures. ------------- |
Posted By: 87ccsn2001
Date Posted: October-08-2009 at 11:48am
| thanks trbenj, that picture thread is great, those engines look great too, thanks again you guys are great |
Posted By: 87ccsn2001
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 9:28pm
| ok I just winterized my 2001 today, drained both manifolds, both plugs in block, raw water pump, took bottom hose of of trans cooler, took bottom hose off raw water pump, drained the strainer, I poured 2 gallons of antifreeze into the t stat housing hose, I pulled both block plugs loose to see if a/f would run out, it did, I did that just for peice of mind that I did it right, this is my first time winterizing a nautique, I also pulled both plugs out of each manifold, neither plug had a/f come out, do I need to pull the water hose that go to each manifold and pour some a/f into each manifold, I just dont anything to freeze and crack thats going to be a problem, also do I need to drain the a/f out in the spring, or can I just run it, thanks again for all the help |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 9:45pm
I always get about 3 gallons or so before I hear the A/F trickle past the risers, so Im not surprised to hear that 2 gallons didnt fill your manifolds. Just add more in through the same RWP outlet hose and it will continue to fill everything if you want. Whether you can just blow the A/F out in the spring or whether you have to drain it depends on the type of A/F you used... I buy the biodegradable just so that its one less thing keeping me from the water come springtime! ------------- |
87ccsn2001 wrote:Posted By: 87ccsn2001
Date Posted: October-12-2009 at 9:52pm
| thanks alot, I will get more a/f and add it tomorrow |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: October-14-2009 at 1:21am
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Mine has a heater. Pull hoses or use air to blow through hoses..?? ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: October-24-2009 at 3:17pm
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if you are talking about the heater up front, I pulled the hose on mine...I have to in order to drain the block on that side ...not sure what your set up is though ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: MartyMabe
Date Posted: October-24-2009 at 4:29pm
OK. Got everything figured out. I guess it was just getting in there and looking at all the routing of everything.My heater hoses--one is tee-ed into the hose after the oil cooler with a flush hookup on it - the other is hooked to the 'u' at the rwp. My shower is on starboard drain plug for the hot and the cold is tee-ed into the lake pickup hose.I just took the 2 hoses loose at the connections all near the engine and air-blowed the heater core out. Same with the shower,air blow.Went the extra step,flushed the manifolds because a little rust came out of the rear plugs and air blowed those too.Haven't done the speedos yet,still reading up on those.Our weather men are calling for a colder and wetter winter for us but still don't think I'm going with the A/F this year.Did the the A/F thing in the 66 last year but that was just for the coating inside I guess.Haven't done anything but drain it since 1970 anyways.I've always taken 2 furniture pads and wrapped the engine every year though. Those things are a dime a dozen around High Point during the Furniture Market!Been itching to go back out to the lake though.Hasn't been to cold yet here.
 ------------- 66 Skylark http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5041" rel="nofollow - 93 SN If you're not living in NC, you're just camping out! |
Posted By: skierbrant
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 3:55am
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My dad always pulled all the plugs on the engine to drain the water out, then tried to fill them all with antifreeze. When I bought my boat from the Zman in Minnesota, he taught me a much easier way that I have done ever since. I use two five gallon buckets (one filled with antifreeze, the other straight water). I have a hose that I hook right into the intake inside the boat. I put the water hose into the 5 gallon bucket and run water into the bucket along with the hose connected to the engine. Once I'm ready to fog out the carborator, I switch the hose from the water bucket to my antifreeze bucket. It takes several minutes to suck all the antifreeze through the engine but once its empty, shut the engine off. I have a heater up front and never had an issue with it freezing. ------------- mailto:skierbrant@aol.com - Brant Augensen http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1536&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1989&yrend=1989 - My 89 Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 9:35am
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Brant,
You need to read more of the threads on winterizing and listen to the consensus that the suck through without draining is a dangerous practice. So far you've been lucky. If you have already winterized, I suggest you drain and save as much AF as you can. If you use RV, I'd boost the protection level by adding some -50F to it and refill the block. If you use regular automotive AF, then you can check the protection level with a hydrometer. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MI-nick
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 12:16pm
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this year for the first time I am not filling with AF...drain only. I was thinking about it all summer and couldn't think of a good reason to spend money on AF. ------------- As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure... |
Posted By: skierbrant
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 2:04pm
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I guess I've been lucky for 12 years because that is how long I've been doing it. I use Prestone and mix 50/50. Now granted, the boat has either been in a barn (doors open), or in my garage (unheated/uninsulated), so it isn't sitting outside in the direct cold, but I have never had any problems from doing it that way. ------------- mailto:skierbrant@aol.com - Brant Augensen http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1536&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1989&yrend=1989 - My 89 Nautique |
Posted By: davidg
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 7:52pm
| This year, I changed it up a bit. I normally just drain the block and exhaust manifolds. This year I added the A/F after the water was drained. However, to Pete's point, I got a little nervous about having a A/F-water mixture in there, so I drained off the A/F as well. So, if there are any little nooks/crannies that don't drain, at least it won't be pure water, and it will have A/F in those areas. Best of both worlds I guess. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 8:28pm
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Brant,
Since you use regular AF, I feel it's what has saved you for the 12 years. Because it's meant to be diluted even if you get a pocket that's not 50/50 (more water) it won't freeze hard but rather just slush up. The suck through without draining gets big time dangerous with RV AF. I still suggest you drain first and check out the recommended pour in method as per the engine manual. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: skierbrant
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 9:48pm
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I guess that's why I've always felt safe using Prestone. ------------- mailto:skierbrant@aol.com - Brant Augensen http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1536&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1989&yrend=1989 - My 89 Nautique |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 11:32pm
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mkoppel; I am wondering too...where in Ohio? I can think of a couple of helpful guys (especially if you're cute).....Randy in Ohio and eric in brunstucky.
john I love these winterizing threads. ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: October-25-2009 at 11:43pm
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JBear - Don't rub it in. We know your winterizing consists of turning the ignition off! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-26-2009 at 12:09am
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Chris; Over 20 years of owning Nautiques (6) up in Northeast Ohio. Helped my brother and buddies before I owned my own. So I did my time winterizing....but I sure do enjoy my method now....just like you said....turn off the key and cover her up! In fact did just that Saturday after footing with backfoot.
john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: skierbrant
Date Posted: October-26-2009 at 4:20pm
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John,
You are making me jealous! I would love to be just shutting the ignition off and backing it into the garage. That means I would be living someplace warm! I can't get my wife to move! ------------- mailto:skierbrant@aol.com - Brant Augensen http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1536&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1989&yrend=1989 - My 89 Nautique |
Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 3:08pm
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I have read through a number of these threads and I want to make sure I winterize my 1985 SN 2001 correctly as this is my first attempt. The pictures and suggestions for draining in this thread were great. This is where I get confused, I want to put antifreeze by pouring it in one of the hoses, but I am not sure which hose I should be filling. Which hose should I add the antifreeze in and how do I know it is full? I drained the system and tried adding antifreeze without running/heating up the engine -not sure if I need to remove the thermostat.... I added three gallons by filling one hose, but my son noticed AF coming out the back end so I am guessing I filled the wrong hose. Thanks Rookie Tom |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 3:28pm
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Pour in the hose from the rwp to the t-stat housing. You do not need to remove the t-stat ------------- |
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 3:55pm
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Ok... I just did my 99 GT-40SN Friday... 1)I filled gas tank up and added Sta-bil (twice normal amount) 2)I ran engine off hose till up to temp. Then emptied water jackets etc... then I put 4 gallons of antifreeze in bucket (2 at at time) and ran through engine by taking the raw water intake hose and sticking in bucket. 3)I then pulled my spark plugs out and sprayed each cyl with sta-bil fog oil... bumped engine twice (with distributor unhooked) waited 15 mins and sprayed each again. 4)I changed my oil and tranny fluid just a couple weeks ago so I didn't do that (I know... I screwed up  ) but I doubt I put more than 4 hours on it with new fluids. 5)I pulled my battery to charge store, cleaned boat good and threw a dust cover on her. 6) I do plan to bust out the buffer at some point, when I am depressed!  For your 84 SN, instead of pulling your plugs, you can just pour/spray fog oil directly into your carborator while you are sucking antifreeze start when you have maybe 1/2 bucket left and it is already coming out exhaust... your engine will just "sufficate" and die out while doing. Have done this to 83 MC since new... never an issue 1,200 hours later... When "un-winterizing" just hook hose back up to water intake... hit the carb with a shot of starting ethier one full pump on the throtle and turn key... (preferably in driveway sat morning at 7am couple blasts of the fog horn thick smoke burning out of the block at 2,500RPM yelling - KIDS THE SKI SEASON HAS BEGUN! |
Posted By: parrott
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 4:09pm
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Does anyone know the plug size of the manifold plugs in a 99 Air Nautique? ------------- 1999 Air Nautique 1992 Nautique 1978 Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 4:18pm
You don't have to do this. ------------- |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 4:47pm
Despite doing this for 16 years, and reading all 147 billion threads about it, this one still confuses me. If I don't have to have the t-stat warm and open to pour (or pump? AF through, then why does Tim say the following
If it's closed and follows path 2, how is it getting into the block? Is the path different between pouring and pumping? That's the first time I've heard that t-stats control flow out of the engine vs into it, is that why it works? Block fills up even if t-stat is closed? ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: AAM196
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:00pm
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What kind of engine in your 99Air? GT-40? when you say wat size are you asking for wrench size or thread size to replace? I used big cresent wrench as I didn't have a big enough open end with me. Hollywood: yeah... I wasn't sure if I had to open thermostat or not since I wasn't going to change oil but I really want to run for two reasons: 1) I just did a muffler repair... the front section baffle supports to top and buttom of muffler were loose and rattled... I used some JB weld marine epoxy to repair w/o having to cut open and wanted to hear it... It seems to have worked fingers crossed! 2)since I doubled the amount of sta-bil in fuel, I wanted to make sure it made it through lines and injectors. Really my boats are always in semi-heated garages anyway... |
Posted By: parrott
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:12pm
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AAM196 Thanks, it is the GT40. I want the wrench size. I think it is 1" but not sure. Used a pipe wrench on one side but couldn't get the other side. Wanted to buy an open ended wrench for this. ------------- 1999 Air Nautique 1992 Nautique 1978 Nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:24pm
  ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:29pm
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Posted By: td_in_nc
Date Posted: October-29-2012 at 5:49pm
| Thank you! The pictures really cleared this up for me. |
Posted By: Don5432
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 2:01am
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Well here goes TOTAL HERESY ! I leave my 1986 Nautique on the shore station all winter with only a boat cover and the shore station vinyl cover for protection in our cold snowy Missouri winters. For the past 26 years I have winterized my boat as follows. 1. Fill gas tank with straight gas (no ethenol in it) 2. Add Red Stabil 3. Run the boat up to normal temperature doing turns with boat to mix gas & stabil. 4. Turn off engine and raise boat on lift. 5. Clean Strainer basket. 6. Disconnect water intake hose and put in 5 gal pail with 3 gal of pink RV/Marine anti freeze. 6. Start engine at idle and begin spraying Stabil Brand fogging oil into carb. flame arrestor. When bucket is almost empty of pink AF turn off motor. 7. Reconnect water intake hose. Once on lift I timed it and I completed whole process in 10 minutes. It's SO EASY and 26 frigid winters proves that it works. Can do same thing on trailer if just pulled boat from lake. 8. Lastly I disconnect battery and put on charger in garage set on max 3 amps for whole winter. Batteries have been lasting about 6 years. ------------- I have a 1986 2001 Model Ski Nautique that I bought new. 1686 hours on it, mostly skiing. |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 8:20am
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Stupid question, im sure covered numerous times before.. If I pull all drain plugs disconnect trans cooler pipe and remove the rwp impellor - do I still need to bother with anti freeze?? ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 8:46am
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Correct Graham. But some like to add it,I have seen RV antifreeze here recently for under $2,cheap insurance after all. After you have pulled all the drains you can put them back in by hand and using the hose Hollywood has labeled in green,pour it in. Then you can pull the plugs again and enough will be left in in to protect. I don't think it gets as cold where you are,sometimes here in the Chicago area it can get to -0F for awhile! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 11:47am
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Graham, I agree with Gary that the drain only has been used for years and is still used by many - even marinas! I too did the same for many years. The anti is, as Gary says, just cheap insurance. I store my boats in northern Wisconsin where it can get down to -30F so, I now do add about a gal of anti to each engine (the 4 will only take a bout 1/2 gal,!!) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 12:17pm
| If you're going to add anti freeze, a good amount should be added as it doesn't take much water to dilute -50 RV to a point where it might do more harm that good. If you only add a 1/2 gallon and there's a cup or a pint of water in the engine, you could make the situation worse. I usually add a half gallon to the engine, then drain it out to hopefully purge any remaining water, and then add 2.5 gallons which fills the block and exhaust manifolds. This year I then drained the 2.5 gallons out and left the plugs out. |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: October-27-2013 at 3:43pm
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Thanks folks, on that basis I don't think I'll bother with the antifreeze it doesn't get ridiculously cold over these parts ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: oldscool
Date Posted: October-30-2013 at 10:56pm
| I read this thread and found that I'm in the minority of the lazy suckers. The methods posted are the correct way to do it for sure. Not sure about leaving the block empty all winter as I feel the air and residual moisture will certainly increase corrosion. My twenty year method has been oils, fill tank, stabilizer, run to temp, 6 gallons straight antifreeze, catch pail behind boat, suck it through, mystery oil down the carb, give the catch pail to the son-in-law for his jeep. Doing things the right way is important, and draining and using rv antifreeze would lower my cost by at least $30.00, so maybe next year I'll go by the book. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-30-2013 at 11:03pm
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With a freshwater motor I would not worry about corrosion,just think of all the saltwater boats out there,you never get that out and the engines last a long time ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 4:25pm
Did mine this evening 10 minute job  Just need to make sure I put these somewhere safe! http://s258.photobucket.com/user/graham22k/media/20131031_181145_resized_zps570370c1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 4:57pm
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Ok guy’s after reading every conceivable way to winterize (and trying several) I thought I’d share how I do mine which I find the easiest for me at least since my ’95 has a shower, heater and drip less shaft. First I start with 8 gal antifreeze (before someone squawks about the amount, you will end up with around 3 gal reclaimed + it only costs 3 bucks a gallon which is peanuts compared to the other costs of owning a boat) First remove plug in port side block to drain block (this is to help keep the A/F from being watered down) While the block is draining do the following. 1) Remove platform 2) Remove exhaust flapper 3) Insert 4”schedule 40 pipe with several wraps of duct tape( to acquire a snug fit in exhaust port) and elbow in exhaust 4) Pour 3 gallon A/F in bucket below exhaust 5) Disconnect strainer and attach 10’ - 1” pool hose 6) Pour about a gallon in the pool hose while holding above the motor height. Pour another three gallon A/F into the second bucket in the boat. Put weighted end of pool hose in bucket 7) Reinstall port block plug, - Take a drink of beer 8) Start boat, take bucket from in boat to the exhaust, and put hose in exhaust bucket pour remaining A/F into exhaust bucket. 9) While outside of boat check drip less is running A/F out, then clamp drip less line. 10) Watch temp - Drink more beer 11) As temp raises run shower till A/F is seen then shut off – drink more beer 12) Once temp approaches operating temp run heater check for heat yes = good circulation of A/F through core – drink more beer 13) Run at operating temp a while you finish your beer 14) Turn off motor, start oil draining – drink another beer or two while oil drains 15) when drained add new oil and filter 16) start motor run fresh oil through motor 17) turn off motor 18) unclamp drip less line, disconnect pool hose empty strainer and reconnect 19) remove impeller, loosen belts Done …time to drink more beer  http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/IMG_0786.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/IMG_0788.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s256.photobucket.com/user/gun-driver/media/95%20Nautique%20pictures/IMG_0785.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 5:26pm
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Geez Paul, just 19 easy steps? I think I'd be done with my winterization process and have drank a beer before you were finished duct taping the PVC to your exhaust. Do you not drain the water from your manifolds, circ pump hose or the starboard side of the block? Seems like you'd be diluting your A/F if not. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 5:35pm
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Yea it looks like a long list but it doesn't even take an hour depending on how long you wait on the oil to drain. Plus I have all the pipe ready from the year before. The explaination on the pipe was for anyone doing it for the first time. I don’t drain the starboard side block because my shower is plumbed to that. What I did mix up is that when I get out of the boat that is when I slide the exhaust bucket under the pipe by then it has chugged out most of the water and is starting to dump out mostly the A/F. |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 6:59pm
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Paul, I like all the steps where you drink beer!! We winterize at the shop in a similar method. We order 55 gallon drums of -200 degree diluteable antifreeze. We have two cement pits with a pump that feeds both boats at low pressure high volume. We add antifreeze until the mixture coming from the exhaust reads -50 degrees on the refractometer. Of course with the boat at operating temperature thermostat open. Unfortunately no beer to go along with this process at work. Graham put those plugs back in with some antiseize. Tim covered this on Planet Nautique but the threads in the block and manifolds will rust and almost be gone come spring time if you leave the plugs out. I did that one year whoops. Hw, you are a wizard with Microsoft Paint. ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 7:20pm
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Zach I feel it's a good way to make sure the A/F gets through all the systems, warms the oil and takes almost no tools at all. Like I said above it looks like a long list but you actually spend more time drinking beer and watching it run than wrenching. |
Posted By: gR@HaM
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 7:20pm
Of course, I never thought of that. Thanks Zach ------------- '82 Ski Tique |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 9:10pm
I'm starting to like JBears method better all the time  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: storm34
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 10:38pm
15.5) Forgot to put the plug back in the oil drain....clean shop floor ------------- |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 10:55pm
Damn 
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Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: October-31-2013 at 11:24pm
yeah..just realized its been 9 winters since I had to do this. winter-i-zation for us means breaking out the heater shirts to put on under the footing suits. miss lots of stuff from Ohio...but not winter! we are always open for winter visits guys..just bring your footin' gear. john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: November-01-2013 at 5:09pm
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Paul, if you simply run the shower pump that will essentially drain the port side of the block and also any water upstream from where the cold side of the shower connects, I usually get a 1/2 gallon or more out this way. Following you theme it also does not require any tools. I will usually see at least another Gallon via the heater, jtube and manifolds. Like your method, the only thing I would do different is drain all the points, plus that should get you another beer!! |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: November-02-2013 at 6:02pm
I was thinking the same thing Tim... and he doesn't even start drinking beer until the 7th step! I still haven't winterized... been so damn busy and the weather hasn't cooperated on the weekends I've had time... the sad part is I haven't even used the boat since August  got to get this done this week...I've been doing the pour-in method since our old friend Eric replaced my manifolds with new ones I was able to remove the drain plugs from. I don't see any reason to make it more complicated than it needs to be. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: November-02-2013 at 8:40pm
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[QUOTE=Randy_in_Ohio] I've been doing the pour-in method since our old friend Eric replaced my manifolds with new ones I was able to remove the drain plugs from. QUOTE] My method would probably be better for you Randy as it doesn't require the use of any tools other than a nutdriver.
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Posted By: GeoB
Date Posted: October-12-2021 at 12:39pm
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My first year with 85 SN. Followed this thread with mix of AF and 5 plug drain. Well, 4 plugs and a drill out. Starboard exhaust plug does not have any indication of any thread tape. Has not been serviced in 5 years. The 1/2 Square stripped after hours of soaking in liquid wrench. Pipe wrench on outside chewed but did not budge. Just to finish I had to cut the exhaust hose off and drill the plug. Winter project will be to pull the upper jacket and extract the remains of the plug. ------------- Geo |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: October-13-2021 at 7:27am
| Heat (as in a torch) and a 50/50 mix of acetone & transmission fluid works wonders for stuff like that. |