swim platform maintenance
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12471
Printed Date: May-06-2024 at 11:41pm
Topic: swim platform maintenance
Posted By: kapla
Subject: swim platform maintenance
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 6:23pm
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How often do you do some service to your teak platform, and what materials you use to service it?
I have mine sanded to smooth the surface and the holes produced by wakeboard fins and then oiled with teak oil. This is every 6 month. After the service it looks like new. I don't like when the teak starts to take that white to gray colour.  ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 6:42pm
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Historically Ive refinished mine every winter- which usually consisted of a good scrubbing with teak cleaner/brightener (using a brass brush), and several coats of a teak/ATF/linseed oil mix. I wont be doing that this off season though- the process I used last winter held up very nicely. Only a few touch up coats necessary- much easier.
I followed http://mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showpost.php?p=150097&postcount=28 - this procedure that was created by a MC owner. Best looking platform Ive ever produced- it looked wet and glossy even when it was dry. I wish I had a pic! ------------- |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 7:50pm
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Wow thanks Tim, I'm going to try this. I've done mine with the starbrite 3 step kit for years. but I always have to do it twice a year to keep it looking good. I never knew they made a sealer. ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-04-2008 at 8:02pm
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That Starbrite sealer sounds like "Teak Guard". It's completely different than oil.
Tim, David and I were talking about your platform at Lake George, how it looked so good, but it seemed smoother and a little different than an oiled platform. No I know. Your platform looks much better than the one I did in Teak Guard. ------------- |
Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 12:16am
glad i don't have to worry about teak ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7587" rel="nofollow - 86 ski nautique |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 12:27am
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nice tutorial tim, will follow it next time!!! ------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:18pm
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Bruce, thanks! I should have been more specific, though- I did vary a little from Harold's process. On the first coat after cleaning, I used my teak oil (50%)/ATF (25%)/boiled linseed oil (25%) concoction. I did this mainly to try and darken the wood, but Im not sure it had much effect. After each round of wetsanding, I just used regular teak oil. I think I went up to 1000 or 1200 grit- I was really happy with the results. The platform actually beads water.
I just used the regular Starbrite stuff.  ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:26pm
Harold is a teak fanatic. His process is something you might do once a year. I ski almost every day of the week. I wipe down the boat and teak after I pull it out of the water. I rub in some teak oil gold after I put the boat in the garage. Keeps the teak looking great and protects the teak. Save your money for gas, new ski ropes, and whatever. I keep my teak oil soaked cloth in a plastic bucket with a cover. A bottle of teak oil gold lasts about 30 trips to the pond. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
TRBenj wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:56pm
Bill, Im not following- was there something about Harold's process that you interpreted as expensive? Its just a $10 bottle of teak oil and quite a bit of labor. As I see it, the main benefit (besides a great looking platform) is the longetivity... I did it last winter and dont need to repeat the process this year- just a few touch ups. My experience has been that it takes nearly a full week for the teak oil to completely dry- I hate coming into contact with an oily platform! I only touched up once this past season- right before LG, of course. ------------- |
Posted By: SkiBum
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 4:04pm
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Maybe I am out in left field on this one, too? Finding myself there frequently in recent days. This is from the link:
Cost estimate: o Sandpaper - $25-35 o Sealer - $15-25 (depending on size container you purchase) o Misc supplies (i.e. brushes) - $15-20 o Time – 15-18 hours o TOTAL: $55-80 plus 15 to 18 hours of time I think 55 bucks (and 15 hours) on a swim platform is a once a year deal. We ski almost every day of the week. I provide the tug every other day. I rub teak oil onto the platform after each use. Whether it every totally dries or not, I dunno? But nobody complains about an oily platform. They do comment on how good it looks though. I am not belittling Harold's procedure. I am just saying that you can keep the teak looking great all season long for the cost of a bottle of teak oil gold a month. ------------- Bill http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks - http://www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks www.freewebs.com/billsboatworks 1987 SN Rebuild Project |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 4:12pm
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Bill, I can assure you that this procedure is not required once a year- it looks like I should easily get 2-3 (if not more) out of mine. That means Ill get several years out of one quart ($15) bottle of the Starbrite oil.
I didnt take into consideration the cost of the other supplies as I had them on hand already, but the estimates still seem high. A single brush from the dollar store works just fine. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree! ------------- |
Posted By: kapla
Date Posted: December-05-2008 at 9:54pm
I know pictures are always welcome so here are some after teak oil was applied
 l
------------- <a href="">1992 ski nautique |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: December-06-2008 at 1:30pm
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OK, so what am I doing wrong? The first time I redid my platform I sanded it down real good. (that was before the posts came up about not sanding) It looked great after a few coats of teak oil, but within just a few outings started to fade again. This past summer I redid it. Instead of sanding, I scrubbed it with a brush like Tim is suggesting. It looked great, I oiled it with several coats and it looked great, but one or two outings and it started showing patches of grey. I didn't use a cleaner, is that my problem? The wood looked great just after brushing it down so I assumed it was pretty clean. Any suggestions? ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?†“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.†|
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: December-08-2008 at 7:41pm
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Tim, your platform looks fantastic!
Longevity of your teak finish will depend on how you store your boat. Keeping the platform out of the water and covered will certainly help preserve the finish. Two part cleaner/ brightner and then a couple coats of teak oil gets me through 1/2 the season (nearly daily use, NOT COVERED). Just reapply when it starts to look thin. Once a year. *I reapplied just before LG last summer and it didn't dry in time- sorry for the sticky feet guys ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 12:58pm
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Thanks Brad. Agreed on how the boat is stored and used- that will definitely affect how long the finish lasts. My platform did sit out in the sun for the first half of last summer though- before I added the snaps to the rear skirt, it didnt spend much time covering the transom. We do rarely ski off the boat though- we usually go right off the dock.
Larry, I suspect you didnt get the platform clean enough before re-oiling. Im always amazed at the amount of junk that comes off of the platform when I use the teak cleaner and a good brass brush. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 2:46pm
Larry, I agree with Tim. If the cleaner/brightener step isn't done then the mold and mildew down deep in the wood will come back quickly. Actually the mold and mildew will feed on organic teak oils. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:02pm
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I'll get some cleaner next time I do it. Like Tim said, I was amazed at all the gray goo that comes off. I always thought that was faded/discolored wood. Until I cleaned it, I didnt realize it was washable goo. Since its bio-goo, I used clorox, must be more to the cleaners than that. ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?†“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.†|
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: December-09-2008 at 6:55pm
Hydrochloric and or Oxalic acids most likely. ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: December-10-2008 at 9:39am
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A pressure washer seems to work very well, unless im doing something wrong ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-02-2009 at 8:17pm
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I've been reading all about cleaning my teak swim platform. I bought teak cleaner / brightner as well as teak oil. What kind of brush is recommended to clean with? ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: January-02-2009 at 9:32pm
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I've have good luck with a brass wire brush and also stiff nylon. You will be amazed. I've also used a pressure washer as Eric stated. Only problem with that is that it erodes away the soft grain of the wood but not the hard stuff. Then you'll end up sanding it to get it flat again.
Good Luck, Steve ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-02-2009 at 10:11pm
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Cool. Thank you! I'll post some pics once done. ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-03-2009 at 8:53pm
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All done cleaning...looks great! How long do I need to let it dry? ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: January-03-2009 at 10:30pm
I usually let mine dry overnight, then lay the teak oil to it.  I always put several coats on, until it quites soaking it in.
Don't forget the pictures! we love pictures
Steve ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-04-2009 at 12:32pm
 ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-04-2009 at 12:32pm
 ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-04-2009 at 12:38pm
 ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: January-04-2009 at 1:12pm
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Chris, Looks like it came out very nice. What kind of brush did you end up using?
FYI: if you make you pictures a little smaller, I will make the thread much easier to read. Steve ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-04-2009 at 1:28pm
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I used a copper scrub pad. It took 3 of them to do get all the grim out...but they were only 1 dollar at the dollar store.. Im getting ready to lay down the teak oil, then i'll upload new pics..smaller this time..lol
Thanks again for all the advise...so far, so good.. Muggsy- ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: cmuggleston
Date Posted: January-06-2009 at 11:51pm
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Anyone know how long I need to let the teak oil dry. I finished the last coat Sunday...and it is still not dry. ------------- Muggs |
Posted By: 86BFN
Date Posted: January-07-2009 at 12:22am
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They say to wipe the excess off but I rarely do. If you want to anytime now would be fine.
Nice lookin sport Cris.  ------------- 👣 Steve http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4057&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1986&yrend=1986" rel="nofollow - 86 Barefoot Nautique 89 Martinique Former Owner: 93 Hydrodyne 350 MAG |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: January-07-2009 at 12:43pm
It seems like it usually takes the better part of a week for my platform to dry completely- and that time can easily double if its kept in a cool or damp place. Placing the platform in the sunlight seems to speed things up- otherwise, just be patient. ------------- |
Posted By: Roym
Date Posted: January-23-2009 at 12:59pm
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This is a suggestion for cleaning your dock but would probably work well for a swim platform. I have a side line where I do dock and deck restorations and this is the best method of cleaning a gray nasty weathered dock.
You need a pump up garden type sprayer and a pressure washer for dock work, but a strong pressure garden hose might be all thats needed for a swim platform. First you need "oxy clean" powder or simliar product. Use about 1/2 cup per gallon in WARM water in the garden sprayer put in a good squirt of Dawn dish soap. Stir it up good. Then wet your wood( no joke intended) with your hose and let the excess run off. After this spray it with the oxy clean and WAIT 20 mins. You need to keep it damp during the 20 min wait so just keep respraying it lightly or mist it with the garden hose, but the 20 min wait is important. Then lightly pressure wash it. The results will be amazing, but it will lighten up the wood. I don't know if this will work on wood that has teak oil on it but it sure will clean up a badly weathered dock. The mixture has to be used in a hour or two so wait until your ready to do it to mix it up. You might want to do a test spot on the teak to see if it works and dosent harm the teak. If you do your dock that pressure treated wood just go do it. Roy |
Posted By: dsla
Date Posted: March-21-2009 at 6:28pm
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I have a platform that the previous owner applied cetol to. I did not like the look, so i sanded the cetol off with a 60 grit sander. I really like the way cmuggleston's turned out.
1) Will this process that cmuggleston did work for me? 2) Do you think I need to sand with higher grit prior to using the cleaner? Thanks in advance, Dan |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 12:15am
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I am in the middle of re-doing my platform and it is amazing how much better it looks just from cleaning it - i just wet sanded it tonight but it didnt feel like it was accomplishing much so I wondered if i needed to "wet sand" it with soap and water between each application of oil and what effect would "dry sanding" have instead? Thanks ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 10:20am
No wet or dry sanding between coats of oil. What are you trying to accomplish with the wet sanding? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 10:52am
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Hey Pete,
I was following the directions from earlier in the post. There is a link that says to sand after the oil dries on each application with a finer grit paper each time. ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 11:13am
Pete, dont knock it til you try it! I used this method on my '90 platform- came out very nice. Ill snap some pics this weekend. GCarbone, definitely wetsand with the proper paper if attempting that technique... dont attempt the finer grits dry. ------------- |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 11:17am
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Don't they get kind of slippery when you wet sand or dry sand with fine grit? ------------- |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 2:55pm
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Bruce, the only time mine has seemed slick is when I havent allowed the oil to fully dry before getting it wet. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 3:14pm
I agree that wet sanding is a common technique for sanding or even applying oil finishes. I've used it many times on "danish" oils but you use the oil as a wetting agent and not soap/water. The oil and the sanding dust creates a slurry that will go down into the pores of open grain wood smoothing it all out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 3:37pm
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So it sounds like we have the right compromise - wet sand but instead of water like i used last night, start using the teak oil?
With the water it did create a slurry that just seemed to make a mess, but if I used the oil then that would be a good solution. I will follow the directions of that link for the rest. Thanks guys. I will try to get a picture up when it's done. ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 3:52pm
No!
The mess that occured was because you didnt allow the oil to fully dry before wet sanding. Water isnt making the mess, the oil is. This time of year, it will take a full week for the oil to dry- maybe a bit less if you put it in the sun this weekend! If you follow the plan to the letter, you will end up with a nice looking piece. ------------- |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 3:58pm
Just oiled mine up last week. Initially the first coats soaked in and dried rather quickly. But on the last coat(s) when the wood was almost fully saturated with teak oil, Tim is right, it will take several days to completely dry. Mine took 4 days of sitting outside in sunny warm weather before it was dry to the touch. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 4:41pm
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I used TRBenj's teak process. It took me about 3 weeks to finish. I think it turned out very nice. Cant wait to see how it holds up. I added one step thow. I scrubbed with a brush after each sanding to get any sediment that may have settled into the wood grain. ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 5:07pm
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Tim - I hadnt put any oil to it, only a good scrubbing with soap and water and then again with a teak cleaner - both a few days prior to wet sanding.
I will just follow that link and will stay patient. This weekend will be a good weekend to have it out in the sun. I just noticed you are out of MA - where abouts? ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 5:18pm
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Make sure you prep the teak real well- use a stiff brass brush with that cleaner to get all the mildew out. Make sure you rinse it well afterwards! Make sure its completely dry before applying oil, and then completely dry again before wetsanding between coats. I did my platform last summer and it took me a few months!
I live just west of Boston and work about 20 min north of the city. I ski with a few guys from here a few miles west of work, but I keep my boats in CT (where Im originally from). Whereabouts in NH are you? ------------- |
Posted By: gcarbone
Date Posted: April-22-2009 at 5:23pm
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I work about 35 minutes north of the city in Salem - but live in Concord. My boat is kept at our lake house in southern ME. we arent far at all - small world. ------------- 96 SN |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 4:01pm
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bumping an oldie but goodie to ask a question: has anyone ever tried Sikkens? I was talking to the guy at west marine and we're standing in front of a wall of star brite products and he was swearing up and down that this Sikkens stuff is the best. I'm not the kind of guy who inherently trusts the opinion of strangers so I thanked the guy for help but told him I was going to do some more research before buying a $45 can of a product I had never heard of. Thoughts? Anyone use this before? Or should I just stick with the star brite? ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 4:34pm
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Never tried it, but I've always had great success with the light sanding and 5+ coats of $10/qt Watco teak oil. I'm still on the same can of the stuff after 2 years and love the results. So unless the more expensive stuff applies itself, then I don't see it being worth the $$$ because the Watco looks great and goes on extremely easy. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 5:08pm
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Whenever I walk into West Marine, I always get a little bit of that Used Car Lot feeling. I still go, because they have a lot of stuff you might need, and you don't have to wait for it to come in the mail. But, I get the impression that the people working there are being pushed to up-sell on everything. It's always a couple extra feet of rope, a fender the next largest size, the slightly more expensive boat soap... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 5:13pm
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Sikkens does make one product for Teak that they claim will "breath". I know of no one that has had very good luck with any of their products and no one that has ever used their Teak product. Yes, I too avoid walking into a West marine as well!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 5:25pm
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I'm not endorsing west by any means, I just knew that would be my best shot of finding what I need around here, and sure enough they had a whole wall full of stuff. I don't remember seeing anything named watco, but then again, I wasn't looking for that either. So basically what I'm hearing is the guy may have just been trying to upsell me? All I walked out of there with this weekend was the cleaner, which I knew I needed, but I know I'll be back in later this week for the rest, I just want ya'lls advice on what that should be. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: April-09-2012 at 5:39pm
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Well, there's a chance they were trying to up-sell you. I'm not denouncing them, any more than you're endorsing them. Just important to be a little bit on guard with them. I have never had someone at a supermarket walk over and push me towards the more expensive milk They certainly do have a lot of stuff. I have a small one local and some bigger ones further away. I prefer to go to the small one, as long as they have what I need, because they seem to be straighter shooters in that one. I have gotten some good advice and some bad from West Marine as a whole. |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 2:40am
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Here's another question, the MC link at the beginning of this thread appears to be broken, so its difficult for me to tell what process Tim is talking about. Let me see if I can figure it out 1. cleaning, some combination of pressure washing, scrubbing with a stiff brush and a cleaner 2. then the star brite or watco teak oil 3. let it dry (several days) then wetsand 4. let that dry and repeat (and repeat, and repeat) oiling and sanding, increasing the grit on the paper each time that about right? The two questions I have: 1. Tim mentioned working up to 1000 or 1200 grit, where should I start? 2. Is there a sealer of some kind at the end of the process or just the oil? somebody mentioned it, but I can't tell from the subsequent posts ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 9:33am
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Power washing cleaned mine up well, I only sanded enough to not feel rough or uncomfortable to stand on, I didn't want it to feel slick when wet, then teak oil only, no sealer at the end. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 10:53am
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Youve got it. Go very easy on the pressure washer. Brass brush and a good teak cleaner will be needed to get the black mold/mildew out of the grain. Rinse thoroughly after cleaning, and after every sanding (you want all dust and grime out of the wood prior to oiling). No sealer. Start with whatever grit you need to make it smooth. Probably 320 or 400. If the platform is in really rough shape, you may need to go to 220 or 150... just be careful not to remove *too* much wood or the tips of the screws may start poking through. After the process was done, the platform was not slick... though it looked like it would be! ------------- |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 3:41pm
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Thank you Tim, that is exactly what I was looking for. My platform wasn't in terrible shape, I posted pics somewhere a couple weeks ago for Kristy, I would just rather ask too many questions and get all the right information than assume and mess something up. I already cleaned it, pressure washer first, then two rounds of scrubbing with the star brite cleaner, first with a brass wool scrub pad (cause I just couldn't bring myself to use a brass brush), and then again with a stiff nylon brush. It already looks a hundred times better. I'll post pics tonight if I remember. I don't actually think I'll need too much sanding to smooth it out, like I said before its not in bad shape. The only other question I have (and this may be dumb) but I want it to be dry when I apply the oil, right? Completely dried out after cleaning, and then again after wetsanding? Thanks again to everyone for helping. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 3:51pm
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You use the Teak oil for the "wet" on the wet sanding. This is a common practice for open grain woods that you finish with a oil type finish. The sanding dust from wet sanding will fill the grain and smooth it out some. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 3:57pm
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I did not use that method, Pete- thats the first Ive heard of it. Tell me more! Adam, I followed the TMC instructions that called for oil, which had to be completely dry prior to wetsanding (with water). Allow to dry completely again before the next round of oil. Then repeat as many times as you want- the higher the grit, the smoother the platform becomes (and the more it starts to resemble a fine piece of furniture). Ive heard of people going to 2000 grit, but I thought it looked beautiful after 800. Oil goes on last, obviously. It can take a good long while for the oil to dry between coats, especially the later ones. Leaving the platform out in the sun will reduce the cycle time significantly- if left in the dark (like in the basement) it can take a week or 2 for the oil to dry. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 4:15pm
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Tim The wet sanding with the oil is an old woodworkers trick used when putting on a "Danish oil" finish. On open grain woods such as Walnut (commonly finished with an oil) the technique really smooths it out by leaving some of the sanding dust in the pores. Now, it's not like going all the way with a paste grain wood filler for the "bar top" finish but does fill the grain some. You use it when getting down into the 800 grit and finer paper. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 4:32pm
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Interesting! Does the oil ball up as you sand? I noticed that would happen if I tried wetsanding before the oil was completely dry. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 5:01pm
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Tim, No, it doesn't ball up since you are doing the sanding before the oil dries. If a previous coat balls up, just as you said, it wasn't completely dry. But, I feel you would have less of a problem with the oil than water. Give it a try next time. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 5:03pm
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ok, now I'm getting confused, let me see if I get this: Tim, what you did was 1. Clean 2. Dry (completely) 3. Wet sand (with water) 4. Dry 5. Oil 6. Repeat steps 2-5 And Pete, what you're suggesting is: 1. Clean 2. Dry (completely) 3. Oil 4. Wet sand (with oil) 5. repeat steps 3-4 Is that right? If you're wet sanding using the oil do you still rinse it? Or do you just oil, sand while wet, oil, sand while wet, with no waiting for it to dry? ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 5:04pm
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(by the way, I tend to ask a lot of very detailed questions when I have no idea what I'm doing, so all the advice is greatly appreciated) ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 5:11pm
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Youve got my procedure correct. Gotta be 100% dry prior to wetsanding and again prior to oiling. As Pete describes it, Id say you have his method correct as well. ------------- |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 5:16pm
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It seems like there would be a tremendous time savings using Pete's wet oil method...I could basically increase the grit on the sandpaper with each oiling but have it done in one afternoon, then only have to wait for a week while it dries once. From that perspective it seems like a slam dunk. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 5:22pm
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You have my procedure correct as well but no "rinsing". Just keep the wet sanding area wet with oil. When done sanding, you can wipe it down with some more Teak oil just to remove any left over sanding dust. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Foot_Fungus
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 6:36pm
| adding/emphasizing pete's earlier statement I wouldn't wetsand with the oil below 600ish grit. Reason being, or what I experiences anyways was that the amount of wood material you are removing isn't fine enough to settle into the pores and ended up 'clogging' up the sand paper. I oiled, dried, dry sanded till i got to 600+, then I wet sanded after that point as I felt the material was powdery enough to fill in. Again just my observation and I'm by no means an expert. |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 6:56pm
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well then, in the interest of scientific discovery (sort of), and time savings, I think I'll try the wet method. Of course, pictures to follow. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 6:58pm
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one other thing, probably a dumb question again, but will I have to do this twice? once on the top and once on the bottom? or can I do both in one fell swoop and just get creative with the way I lay it out to dry? ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 8:24pm
When you get the brackets off, run four long screws into the bottom. Then you do the bottom first and flip it so it's resting on the four screws. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: IAughtNaut
Date Posted: April-10-2012 at 8:49pm
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see, that's why I ask...I am way too dumb to have thought about that on my own. I would have done it in two steps and taken two extra weeks while it dried. ------------- bring the ruckus http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5347" rel="nofollow - 2000 Pro Air |
Posted By: fanto3k4
Date Posted: April-25-2012 at 8:11pm
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QUOTE]When you get the brackets off, run four long screws into the bottom. Then you do the bottom first and flip it so it's resting on the four screws.[/QUOTE] Brillant! I have been doing the prep work on mine this week. Hope to start oiling this weekend! |
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: May-04-2012 at 12:44am
 This thread inspired me to refinish my old and tired looking platform. I used the products shown and the procedures described above (sort of). Power washed then used the cleaner multiple times then dry sanded with 150. Applied oil then let dry and wet sanded with 320 and oil for first coat and did a combination of wet sand with water or oil for the remaining coats. It's very hot and dry in Tucson already so drying time was about 24 hours or less. Thanks for the info. It's the best it has ever looked in the 18 years I've owned it. |
Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: May-04-2012 at 8:36am
| Looks great, almost like a piece of furniture. |
Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 8:59am
| What type of caulk/sealer is recommended to place in the screw holes when reattaching a platform after refinishing? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 9:03am
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Brackets to the hull - 5200 or 4200. Brackets to the wood - nothing. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 9:22am
| Thanks Pete |
Posted By: newguy1986
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 3:21pm
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soo.... I am now guessing I have wasted my time this past weekend... I cleaned my platform with starbrite cleaner scrubbing with brush. then power washed which seemed to work wonders.. then I went to DRY sanding the wood at 80 grit, 120 grit, and 220. I washed the wood to remove all dust. after it was dry i used the brightener. I let is dry and now i have been applying and coat of teak oil every time I see is not "wet" any more. It looks awesome but are yall saying it will not last?? http://IMG_0925.jpg" rel="nofollow - IMG_0925.jpg  ------------- 1986sn 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 3:35pm
I have trouble believing that it was a waste of time. It sounds like you are doing the most important parts, cleaning it good, then applying layers of teak oil and letting them sun dry in. Some of the details are a matter of personal preference. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 3:40pm
Andrew, You haven't wasted your time at all. How long it will last depends on how long it's out in the sun and water. Understand that oiled Teak does need a fair amount of maintenance. When it seems to be drying out, give it another coat of oil. You should at least get several years out of it before having to do the full job on it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-22-2012 at 3:40pm
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Certainly not a waste of time, but I do think that sanding to finer grits has the added bonus of extending the life of the finish. So its not all a matter of personal preference. ------------- |
Posted By: newguy1986
Date Posted: May-23-2012 at 3:09pm
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mine is soaking up oil... alot of oil.... I guess I will just keep applying until it stops taking it in? ------------- 1986sn 2001 |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: May-23-2012 at 3:21pm
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Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-23-2012 at 3:22pm
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I would let it dry fully between coats. Wet sanding between coats is optional, but should also be allowed to dry fully prior to the next coat. ------------- |
Posted By: notx2001
Date Posted: May-24-2012 at 10:53pm
Thought id share some pics of my platform transform. The PO had stained it black and coated in poly. YECH.. what fun to get rid of too. I started thinking id just strip it mechanically. But i was going no where fast. To make it easier to rid the platform finish and stain I ended up getting some CitrusStrip to remove the old finish. I let the stripper sit on the platform over night and it did a good job of removing the finish, scraped with a plastic scraper and brass brush for the crevices. It was still dark after removing the finish. After this i started using the wood cleaner. Several times.  The platform was pretty rough and I wanted a real smooth surface, so I sanded the entire top with 120 and 220.   I used the cleaner one more time after sanding figuring it may open up the wood a bit during sanding. Then used oil and wetsand with oil technique I learned from you guys here. And its looking great. Its amazing just how nice the wood feels now. It is incredibly smooth.   I am happy with how it turned out. Worlds apart from the dark platform prior. ------------- 82-2001 |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-24-2012 at 11:14pm
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Aaron, WOW!!! Yup, that's one real big difference. It sure looks great. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: DrStevens
Date Posted: May-25-2012 at 12:02am
| Great job, your hard work really paid off! |
Posted By: Sampson 182
Date Posted: November-27-2015 at 12:48am
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Heres a few of my platform pics. Done this weekend! So excited to see the response from the members. all this was done using the knowledge from the site. THANKS everyone. 1987 SN 2001 original ski platform. PO put on polyurethane! Before. (polyurethane, and years of abuse.)  After ( Aircraft stripper, pressure washing , sanding, and first oiling.)  All my knowledge was gained from the correctcraftfan.com forums. THANKS to all the members. ------------- 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 Â |
Posted By: Sampson 182
Date Posted: November-27-2015 at 1:07am
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More pics of my platform. I am doing my all to keep it original. Poly is a beast to remove. Take my word kids use Aircraft stripper, and just gob it on then pressure wash followed by a good dry time then 80 grit and then 220. Wash it all down with deck wash mixed with bleach and laundry detergent plus a stiff brissel brush.Then a GOOD NAME BRAND TEAK OIL. Aircraft stripper  Stripped and sanded with 80 grit  ------------- 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 Â |
Posted By: Sampson 182
Date Posted: November-27-2015 at 1:19am
More pics of my platform after sanding and washing. To any noob planning on Poly PLEASE!!!! don't do it. It doesn't look anything as good as a nice oiled teak platform! ------------- 1987 Ski Nautique 2001 Â |