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How do you identify year model

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11647
Printed Date: May-20-2024 at 12:15am


Topic: How do you identify year model
Posted By: bobzilla
Subject: How do you identify year model
Date Posted: August-20-2008 at 11:04pm
I am a demolition contractor in Metro Atlanta.
I loaned one of my John Deere excavators to a friend to clean up a property he bought. The property had two boats that have become mine.I noticed one of the boats was a ski boat, and upon further inspection I discovered it had a Ski Nautique emblem above the center dash guage panel. The thing that really caught my eye was the 318 chrysler engine. The boat is has rotten stringers but the hull appears good.I am trying to identify the year model.I found a tag on the left side of the engine that is attached to the stringer that has SN(serial number I am assuming)1483. The engine is an LM318 serial number 105352. can anyone tell me what year and possibly model this boat is?



Replies:
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 12:23am
If you can get up some pictures that would really help. In the mean time, have you discovered this site's "reference" section. In there you will find brochures for most of the last 40-50 years. You can do some comparing to the pictures to start zeroing in on what boat you may have.

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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 12:31am
Look for some digits stamped into the top right hand side of the back end of the boat, just under the rub rail.

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Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 12:36am
Thanks 75, I can get pics.I have looked at the sales literature.If I had to venture a guess I would say it is a 66-69 model.It appears to have only two bucket seats in the front and no rear bench. I have searched the web for info, and this site seems to be the most informative.I am used to messing with old corvettes and though like a vette I could find a serial number range by year or something on the chrysler engine but there just isn't alot of info out there. I used to be an avid skier and always admired the old wooden nautiques I saw on the lake(although few and far between).back then I could never afford one, now I can afford but just don't have the time LOL.


Posted By: The Godfather
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:18am
Bobzilla, wait till tomorrow and I can look in my book of vin numbers and I can tell you the year. The model is an Ski Nautique because of the SN on the tag. Hope this will help you.

And welcome to the site!!


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:23am
Thanks Hollywood i had read somewhere that on the right side of the transom there would be a number.The boat is still in a barn and I have to remove some trees to get it out.I will go by tomorrow and take some pics also.I saw no markings on the outside of the hull, but I haven't had good lighting to view the boat.It was very difficult to get the numbers off the engine. Should the transom numbers match the tag on the stringer?


Posted By: The Godfather
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:43am
Bobzilla, you already have the number from the tag. In the 70's they started to put the hull vin number on the back right hand side by the rub rail. For the eariler models the number was put on a tag by the engine or under the dash and also by the throttle.


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:56am
Thanks Godfather, That would be a great help.I never thought that the sn would stand for Ski Nautique. But it makes sense.Y'all have been a big help, and I appreciate the welcome.I can tell you anything about a corvette but I am new to nautiques.I thought they were all chevrolet and ford powered. The neatest thing I learned in researching these boats were some of the names like barracuda (I am assuming chyrler powered) and mustang(I assume ford powered). I do everything on my vette including alignment in my own garage, so I don't thing the rebuilding of this boat will be tough, just time consuming.I know with this site I can find answers to my tech questions.I know that soon I will probably be able to help others(at least by the time this boat is rebuilt and in the water) I want to keep it original, but I think I would like to tweek the engine with a nice low end cam,maybe a .030 overbore and a good tuning. I can't wait to hear it run.


Posted By: critter
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 2:06am
Bob, what year Corvette do you have ?
I have a 73 out in the garage that I need to finish putting the interior back in.
Oil pressure guage leaked behind the dash and soaked the carpet before I noticed it.
Like I do not have enough projects going...

Happy to hear another restoration is going to happen.


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1980 Ski Nautique
1966 Barracuda


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 2:09am
Thanks again Godfather, So with the lack of the transom numbers(first place i looked) My assumption of 66-69 has got to be close.From what I read on Chrysler marine engines and looking at the engine itself I made late 60's assumption.It doesn't look to have been worked on by Bubba, so I would bet I could get date codes on the engine intake or block also. I looked around the throttle and there was a tag that was unreadable on the dash between the steering wheel and the throttle.I didn't think about under the dash.Thanks for all the info.


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 2:18am
Critter, I have a 74 L-82 matching numbers car.It is a convertible with the 4 speed and posi rear. whats your 73, got under the hood?
Is it a vert? I was trying to talk my wife into getting rid of her tahoe and buying a 78 pacecar or an 82 collectors edition, but it appears the Tahoe will have boat pulling duty soon.


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 2:26am
Critter, I looked at your 80 Ski Nautique.You have a beautiful boat.


Posted By: critter
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 2:34am
Bob, the 73 is matching numbers original 350. I have had the car since 90 and has been a daily driver until the oil leak.
Just a nice stock White with Tan leather interior vette.
I do like the convertibles better than the T-Tops but I got what I got.

Sorry for the threadjack.... back to CCs.


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1980 Ski Nautique
1966 Barracuda


Posted By: Brady
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 9:03am
Bob,
The plate you found on the stringer is the model/serial no.
And as you might guess, a guy with a name like The Godfather will in fact have the exact date of manufacture, and maybe more info on your boat. Keep watching this morning! My guess would be a mid 60s nautique, wait till you here that thing run, your going to love it

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Charlie
Three Lakes, Wisconsin
69 Barracuda


Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 11:15am
Bob, If you decide to tackle this job of restoring then Buffalogreg would be the man to talk too. Check out "Weedin the pumpkin patch" for all the pics. He's on Lanier so he's not too far from you. Shoot, you might even talk him into helping you out if Amy will give him a "Kitchen Pass"!

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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 12:50pm
LOL Tim!

I'd be more than happy to help with your stringer project, please ask whatever. Bob, maybe you could help me with my late ignition timing on my 454?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:17pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

LOL Tim!

I'd be more than happy to help with your stringer project, please ask whatever. Bob, maybe you could help me with my late ignition timing on my 454?


you still haven't got the timing light out, come on get on the ball.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:35pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

you still haven't got the timing light out, come on get on the ball.


I've had the timing light out many times...along with the vacuum gauge, comp tester, and volt meter. Everywhere I've looked says that low, steady vacuum indicates a leak at the intake, ignition problem, or late valve timing. I believe I eliminated the 1st two.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:41pm
i'm just wondering if you have the gear to the cam off some. Sometimes there is built in advance or retard depending on the gears manufacturer and the way it's mounted. By chance did you use a degree wheel to degree the cam correctly on the install?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

By chance did you use a degree wheel to degree the cam correctly on the install?


I didn't, but that's next. I should've asked in the first place because the indicator marks are different on this gear set.

I'm stomping all over this guy's thread...I'll start a new 1 when I feel like messing with it again. Last time I took it apart on the water; what a PITA. It's running well enough to ride this w/e, and then it'll have to come out anyway.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 2:03pm
once he gets Dave the tag info he'll have his answer.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 4:36pm
Thanks guy's I appreciate all the help. Buffalo run that 454's balancer around till the line on the balancer lines uo with the 0 mark on the timing marker. Verify that both of the #1 valves are closed(take off the right side valve cover if you are looking at the engine from the front)this will let you look at the rockers to verify.Then remove the cap and make sure that the rotor is pointing in close proximity to the #1 plug wire in the distributor.If all of this is correct take a dial up timing light (you can dial in the advance)dissconnect the vacuum advance if any, and rev the engine to 2500 RPM. Set the timing to 36 degrees total timing at 2500 RPM, this should give you around 1o-12 degrees advance at idle.Make sure when you rev the engine that all timing(centrifigul advance)is in around 2,000-2,500. The first steps should verify cam timing without degreeing. You can buy keys to advance the crank gear forward or back about 4 degrees if neccesary. With a low vacuum reading at idle you either have too much duration(high rpm cam such as l88 427 cam).Do you know what the cam specs are?I tuned a 70 chevelle for a friend last week that had been cloned into an ss454. He had the l88 cam and would pull 12 hg at idle I set the total timing to 38 degrees(some engines will take this with out pinging) I set his holley carb idle screws to maximum vacuum and the vacuum came up to about 17.I then set the idle down to 750, which lowered vacuum of course.I would recommend buying a mr gasket advance curve kit, reuse your old weights(they are better than the mr gasket weights and install one light and one medium spring(you can experiment with these).this combination of springs should give you a good advance curve out of the box. I am used to tuning cars but I would imagine boats are the same. we all want low end torque on the street and I would imagine a boat would be the same, I have had outboards and I have built them and tuned them, but I wasn't as knowledgeable back then.If your cam timing is off you should be able to compensate at the distributor(moving one tooth advanced or retarded.I am more than happy to swap info, I am not a woodworker, but I am fixin to be one.I figured that with a name like Godfather I was going to get information I couldn't refuse LOL.I am here to help guys and believe me I will ask for help. I learn something new everyday.Try my idea Buffalo and let me know how it comes out.Is there any water in Lanier, I was on the lake in marck demolishing a house up off of 369(down some side streets) and the water looked to be about 15' down. Allatoona is down a little right now but It seemed that they slowed the outflow down and had a pretty good pool this summer, the worst summer level I ever saw on allatoona was the summer of 86 , 88 got kinda low too.


Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 4:55pm
Originally posted by bobzilla bobzilla wrote:

Set the timing to 36 degrees total timing at 2500 RPM, this should give you around 1o-12 degrees advance at idle.

You mean to tell me that his 454 should have a distributor set up to have ~24 degrees of advance? Greg, isnt that what Performance Distributors set you up with? How can that be- those DUI guys dont know their ass from a hole in the ground, right Chris?

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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 4:58pm
Bob Buffalo has been chasing the problem for a while now on is fresh rebuild so it's a little fustrating to him and it's funning you mention the curve profile, sounds like something I said some time ago on the Topic.

But Dave aka The GodFather is our resident inside man at Correct Craft for all of us Fans of these great boats so try and track down the ID tag on the stringer and post the Info and he will have more information than you could ever ask for as he is the GODFATHER OF CC .

post some picture too if you can that will narrow it down some as a lot here have a pretty good eye for detail and it won't tak but a few hours to figure out exactly what you have.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 5:01pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by bobzilla bobzilla wrote:

Set the timing to 36 degrees total timing at 2500 RPM, this should give you around 1o-12 degrees advance at idle.

You mean to tell me that his 454 should have a distributor set up to have ~24 degrees of advance? Greg, isnt that what Performance Distributors set you up with? How can that be- those DUI guys dont know their ass from a hole in the ground, right Chris?


maybe you missed a key point 2000-2500 RPM not 3000 RPM where it's to late to be advancing, but then I would expect that from someone like you to over look a very critical point. So yes they still have their head you know where. And if you recall I said actual degrees of advance and I don't talk like 24 degrees is the final advance like you. You assume that since you have 10 initial and with 24 possible then it should be 34 total. I prefer to talk about actuall verified readings not some assumption you like to use that just makes an ass out of your self when it's not what you assumed it was. And if You recall I also stated it's odd three diferent engine and cam set-ups have the exact same amount of advance, seems pretty odd to my seeing one has another 100 cubic inches. So if you want to twist and turn and take stuff out of context to try and use to your advantage better keep trying because your heads still up your ass with them.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: The Godfather
Date Posted: August-21-2008 at 11:54pm
Hello Bobzilla, well you asked..
Your boat was built on 2/09/1967.

The engine serial number is 105352, 210 Chrysler. I hope this will help you.

Join the club now you owe me..


Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 12:11am
That's great, now we know what he's got. Now where can we find a picture of a 1967 Nautique with a 318 until he gets his posted.

Oh here's one.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=196&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1967&yrend=1967 - 67 Nautique 318-1

I'm stunned. Who would have thought that?
There must be someone else out there with one. Oh, yeah, here's one.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=223&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1967&yrend=1967 - 67 Nautique 318-2



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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”


Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 12:13am
"Someday, and that day may never come, I'll call upon you to do a service for me." Don Corleone, the Godfather.

BKH

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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 12:20am
Gentlemen, The timing techniques i have shared come from the papers of Lars Grimsrud. http://home.comcast.net/~chadwick.robert/howto.pdf                                           is a link to his timing papers. i have gone back and forth with Lars in e-mails reguarding timing and distributor curve.
I have read that maximum power from any cubic inch displacement comes with the "all in" by 2500 rpm and 36 degrees total timing (strange but true)apparently all engines like to be fired 36 degrees(or more) before TDC to make maximum power, I would think there is a point where more timing makes less power. I am about to try this trick on both of my dad's corvairs. Vacuum advance is used at idle (if needed) to increase the 10-12 degrees before TDC to as much as 24 degrees or more at idle.Keep in mind this is advance is pulled by manifold vacuum and low vacuum will not pull a typical stock advance unit. You have to use a different advance unit on the distributor, general motors has one that pulls at 8 hg to maximun advance. when you come off idle and accelerate manifold vacuum falls off(as does timing)and centrifugul takes over, and port vacuum increases(pulled above the venturi in the carb if I remember right).So if you have low vacuum at idle and a stock vacuum advance you have no advance at idle.You definately want all advance in before redline or it is not usable. Make sure with the timing light that the mark isn't bouncing a sign of a distributor that needs shimmed or bushed or a loose advance plate.Buffalo, I would love to help you straighten out your BB.79 the advance curve is very important. the most important thing is set the total timing at 2500 rpm and let initial timing fall where it may, you can always compensate at idle.Buffalo my e-mail is bdammcc@bellsouth.net if you can e-mail me your cam specs, carb size/mechanical or vacuum secondaries,type distributor HEI, Points type
How the plugs are coloring white(lean)Black(rich) Brown(just right).Your 454 should pull stumps from the bottom of the lake.


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 12:38am
Originally posted by The Godfather The Godfather wrote:

Hello Bobzilla, well you asked..
Your boat was built on 2/09/1967.

The engine serial number is 105352, 210 Chrysler. I hope this will help you.

Join the club now you owe me..


Do I need to put some concrete shoes on somebody LOL? Thank you Godfather I'm glad to be a member of the "family" and that is the serial number on the tag. I am pretty good at dating houses that I tear down, even when property taxes say otherwise. I thought like I said before that it was a 66-69 by looking at the engine and the sales brochures.The boat is light blue/maybe turquoise on top with a white hull.I was thinking of making it red/white or yellow/white. what colors were available from the factory? I want to keep it as original as possible.the picture links are right on except the Correct Craft script at the rear on the sides of the hull are missing(no holes either) and the transom has nothing on it.the only thing that told me it was a Correct craft was the ski Nautique script on the dash.


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 12:46am
The stingers look rotten in my boat and appear to have some bug damage. what type of wood should I use to replace, they appear to be glassed in, is that how they attach to the hull? could I salvage some old heart of pine lumber from an old house and use it for the stringers, or use a pressure treated lumber?
heart pine lumber is very dense old growth and rot resistant but can tend to be brittle.


Posted By: The Godfather
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 12:50am
BKH, do you want to upgrade your boat like the decal I give you...

I heard good prices on the 09's.

I always wanted to catch a BIG FISH!!


Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 1:03am
Originally posted by The Godfather The Godfather wrote:

BKH, do you want to upgrade your boat like the decal I give you...

I heard good prices on the 09's.

I always wanted to catch a BIG FISH!!


I do appreciate the decals Dave, but not possible to upgrade from my boat. The SAN does everything I need. I may buy a different boat, but I surely won't consider it an upgrade. Right now, I'm more concerned with funding my kids college education. Perhaps 2010. BKH

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Livin' the Dream



Posted By: The Godfather
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 1:29am
BKH, don't let anyone know but I got my eye on a 2double01 down here..


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 10:02am
Bob, you'll want to use douglas fir. It's said that fiberglass doesn't stick well to treated wood, and the heart pine would probably work but be a good bit heavier. I might want some of that pine though!

I just finished my stringer job and am super happy with it. I asked your material question and a gillion more http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9543&PN=1 - here.

I'll start a new thread in engine repair on my motor troubles.

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 11:44am
Bob welcome to the site but you have to stop with the vaccum advanced stuff when you are talking about ditributors because boats don't use them on there distributors so if you see a boat that has one then it's been replaces with a non-marine unit. Oh and you really don't need to preach about the importance of advance profiles and where they need to be as I work for DELCO-REMY's ignition group for several years, and have names like Ilmore Chevy Indy V8, Northstart, and Quad4 for engine platforms in my resume. So try and help out the guys buying the DUI stuff they just don't want to listen to me and do there own thing.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 11:12pm
Cool 79, Do you know Lars? Delco-Remy is the only way to go.The only problem is with the HEI which was built for emmissions so they have to have a little grinding done on the stops as far as centrifigul advance for high RPM use. I have tuned and built drag, and dirt track cars and have had alot of success with the HEI. In my Corvette I do not use the vacuum advance(I get a skip at 3500-4000 rpm)Lars advised me against this but I can shift at 4000-5000 RPM with out a skip redline is 5500 RPM. I wish I had a close drag strip.What is DUI(aftermarket?) I can tell you my brother destroked a 372 early(pre 63 block) with a 283 crank and bored it .060 worked out to 311 c.i. and was over square as could be.he bought a mallory dual point and i was forever trying to get it right, dropped in an HEI and all his problems went away. The standard points dist from delco remy is fine for the street, and they are simple, just make sure the bottom bushing is tight and the end play is .006-.010.the top bushings in my experience never wear.The only time I have ever had to deviate from stock ignition was on a buddies Hemi Cuda, the dang thing ate sparkplugs. I installed an MSD 6a and it helped.I worked on an accel built HEI recently and was not impressed. I only use OE stuff on everything I own, even my Pete 357's (cat c13's)my deere excavators, and my loaders.I ran NAPA water seperators on my Excavators, not only were they more expensive but they gave trouble every 250 hours, the Deere oe'S run as much as 500 hours without a problem and they are cheaper.


Posted By: bobzilla
Date Posted: August-22-2008 at 11:20pm
Buffalo where did you obtain the fir? I can get you heart pine. Matter of fact I am demolishing 5 houses on Jackson street, between decatur street, and edgewood downtown on monday. I have one structure that was built circa 1900 I am lacking a permit for it.I will go through and see if it's got any good wood in it.I also on occasion get rough cut lumber from old houses, and barns some close to gainesville. I have a turn of the century house in Alpharetta on hold for demolition(been on hold a year)I did one in Alpharetta For former falcons receiver Micheal Haynes that had been built in 1875, it had some good looking lumber in it, I never seem to find any takers when I have the stuff, and if I save it and store it I always end up throwing it away.I find alot of cool stuff, including old Ski Nautiques, art ,rare antiques, and tools


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-23-2008 at 12:35am
Bob...any chance you need a foreman?

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http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: August-23-2008 at 1:12am
Greg...any chance you'll need a helper?

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-23-2008 at 1:16am
John,do you need an apprentice?

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: August-23-2008 at 1:21am
You got the job. But i was kinda hard on partners...had the last one for about 8 years...no-one else wanted to work with me. Guess I was kinda a*al about my worksite and had a bad habit of continually cleaning my tools. This tells you all you need to know...I HAD to clean all the windows in the truck..every day..before I left the garage. I used to drive my foremen crazy. ALWAYS the slowest guy in the crew. But guess whose jobs never got go-backs?

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-23-2008 at 9:49am
And I'll jump in as the superintendent! Bob, no shortage of help from this group!! Besides, I'm looking for 1200 S.F. of heart pine salvaged flooring!! (resawn/milled)

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-23-2008 at 10:35am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

And I'll jump in as the superintendent! Bob, no shortage of help from this group!! Besides, I'm looking for 1200 S.F. of heart pine salvaged flooring!! (resawn/milled)


I'll let you know when it's ready!

-------------
http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO



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