starting trouble
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10143
Printed Date: May-03-2024 at 7:40pm
Topic: starting trouble
Posted By: tsteele
Subject: starting trouble
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 6:19pm
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I got a problem starting my 86 2001 wih 351.
after shuting off the boat (skier getting ready)and go to start it again it will not start unless I put it in n and move the throttle forward to give it some gas then back.It does not start by just turning key when in n. once it starts it idles fine I dont have to keep giving it gas. Is this the norm or a linkage problem? |
Replies:
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 6:36pm
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That is the way mine has always started. ------------- |
Posted By: tsteele
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 6:42pm
| well that makes me feel better. I was told by someone that I should not have to move the throttle forward that it should start up from n. thanks |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 6:46pm
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Sometimes mine will start without any throttle, but most of the time it likes a little. I rebuilt the carb, and it made no difference. We also have a boat with an Inmar 5.7 Chevy with a Holley and it starts the same way. I figure it's a Holley thing, but I sure more people will chime in. ------------- |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 7:10pm
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HMMMM. For safety purposes the boat will only start in neutral. Almost sounds to me like the boat doesn't know it's in neutral till you play with the throttle a bit. Question. If you play with the throttle, and start it. Are you then able to shut it off and restart without playing with the throttle again? BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: k.o.
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 7:10pm
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ours does that when at at the ramp but once warm we don't have to give it gas.. ours also a 86 ski with 351 ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=7587" rel="nofollow - 86 ski nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 7:34pm
BKH, I don't think he's engaging the transmission, just pumping the throttle with the pin out. We usually give it a pump to start as well. ------------- |
tsteele wrote:Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 7:42pm
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Got it. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 7:42pm
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When warm, a carbed boat should start right at the hit of the key, no throttle. My 90 had instantaneous hot starting capability. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 7:58pm
Yours must have had a Rochester or a Carter on it.  ------------- |
Posted By: farmer
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 8:54pm
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My 77 mustang needs a pump when cold but after warmup it starts right up with a turn of the key and no throttle.(holley,with points) Farmer ------------- Watch your fingers. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: April-14-2008 at 9:15pm
Nope, its still got the Holley  ------------- |
Posted By: phospher
Date Posted: April-15-2008 at 1:09am
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i give mine a shot when it's cold but once warm it will usually start without any throttle. ------------- |
Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: April-15-2008 at 5:53pm
Same thing for my '89... Kristof ------------- - Gun control means: using BOTH hands! - Money doesn't make one happy, but when it rains cats and dogs, it's still better to cry in a Porsche than on a bicycle... |
Posted By: Policerob
Date Posted: April-15-2008 at 10:29pm
| Your problem may be the safety sencor inside the transmition. I would have pronlems with mine 83 correct craft w/351 PCM.. I fixed the proble with cutting the wires to the sencer and bypassing them. I then wired the two together to complet the cercuict. the nud inside the trany wares out and thats wwhy I had to ro ck my throtle back and forth but. my bypass works but you have to keep in minde that the safety of being in gear when yo start. you can locate this sencore and its wires if you look at the were the kill buton is on the PCM plastic cover there are two whit wires that go to the transmition cut the then splice together |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-15-2008 at 10:55pm
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Policerob, Bypassing a safety device (your neutral safety switch) is never a sound method of doing a repair. For testing fine but then do the required repair. You should NEVER run a boat in this condition and should NEVER recommend it to someone else.
I also suggest that you proof read your posts and learn to spell as well. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: April-30-2008 at 9:21pm
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You probably have an old shift cable in the boat???
I know the one in mine is about a thousand hours old and it has quite a bit of flex in it which results in it not tripping the NSS (nuetral saftey switch). Next time it happens pop the hood and take a look where your shift cable is on the tranny. I bet the detent and the ball is not seated, which trips the switch when you try to start it. Policerob- Go in the middle of the lake, put the throttle to the floor with it in gear while not running. Hit the starter. Imagine if that happens while at the dock?? For $15.00-21.50 you can replace the switch....www.skidim.com  ------------- |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: May-13-2008 at 8:43pm
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I have a re starting problem too. Any ideas? Starts fine - 351 holley carb... runs finer. shut it off and it will not start... acts like its flooded. I have old plugs and wires though. |
Posted By: 88 Nautique
Date Posted: May-13-2008 at 8:53pm
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I'm just asking. I'm not a carb expert. But couldn't it be a bad needle valve, incorrect float setting or bad power valves? Can you check to see if it's leaking gas down the manifold after shutting down when warm?
Mine has the same problem. I got a new kit from Skidim but haven't rebuilt it yet. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1657" rel="nofollow - My 88 Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: May-14-2008 at 10:45am
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Guy's I think it may just be..."The Nature of the Beast." My 88" does the same as all of you in that when she is cold I have to pump her 2-3 times to get her to fire up. When we stop for a quick swim or change skiers, she fires right up. A stop for lunch and a long swim then I may need to give her a shot of gas to fire her up. I think thats just how tempermental this 2001's are. Seems to me that everyone has the same symptom's so in a since "we ALL are married to same woman." ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: JasonR
Date Posted: July-16-2008 at 4:39am
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I didn't accept the nature of the beast reason when dealing with mine. It would have to be pumped alot and if it didn't fire then I would have to have WOT. This was due to the engine not firing then getting flooded. This is what I found...... I put a electronic ignition no change.I put a new carb on it after having the original rebuilt twice. It helped for the one season then it went back to the previous condition. I then started digging into the ignition voltage. I found that I had a very low voltage while cranking, keeping the ignition module from firing. The fix....place a larger gauge jumper wire from the empty stud on the starter solenoid to the hot side of the coil. This solved everything. I could reproduce the condition with the wire d/ced to the coil and when the engine cranks and doesn't fire I can touch the wire to the coil and it fires right off. I replaced the coil with a compatable one for the ignition and bypassed the ballist resistor. It starts fine in all conditions now. There was a increase in resistence to he wire harness causing weak spark. ------------- '86 2001 800hrs |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-17-2008 at 2:06pm
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also when hot and turned off, look down the throat of the carb and look for gas drips, sometimes it will empty the float bowl and accelerator pump and lose its charge and then typically you will have to pump and crank and then it has a tendency to flood the engine.
if not after sitting for a while pump the carb with the key off and watch the spray in the throat, you should get a nice spray with no interruptions and a hot engine will evaporate the fuel much quicker up in the runner if not enough fuel is getting to the engine for starting |
Posted By: Taylairdude
Date Posted: July-26-2008 at 2:15am
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I had a similar problem that nagged me for several seasons. I had the carb rebuit since the mechanic said that was the likely problem but the problem continued. It would start, but not reliably and this was very frustrating. This year I noticed my positive battery cable was very hot after trying to start the engine a while.
I took it to a new mechanic and he took the starter off. It was a rebuilt one installed several years ago and was pretty much shot. On examination he said that the paint on the starter was supposed to have been scraped off of the side of the starter where it contacts with the engine block since this serves to properly ground it. He said that the lack of grounding made the starter work harder and this wore out the starter ahead of its time. Anyway, this is a 1980 Ski Nautique and with the new starter he installed, I turn the key and it immediately starts up like a new boat. There are few better feelings than that. Just so I'll know, has any one else heard about scraping the paint on the starter like he said should have been done? Is this true? Just checking and learning. Thanks to all. ------------- Taylairdude |
Posted By: OM45GE
Date Posted: July-26-2008 at 2:53am
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My '89 needs one pump when cold and starts with a turn of the key when warm. I would suspect the Neutral Safety Switch too.
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Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: July-27-2008 at 11:45am
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I have similar problem... still working on it. I have observed that my overflow line from my fuel pump when hot and ran for over an hour or two straight.... pumps out an oily looking substance into the carb. When this starts happening the boat runs really hard at idle, and only runs at higher RPMS. Any ideas? Rebuild card or fuel pump issue only? So, when the boat runs for a long period of time it seems to be either flooded or not getting enough fuel! I didnt get towed back today!!! jamie |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-27-2008 at 11:48am
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That sight tube is to let you know the pump is shot and give you time to get off the water...as I understand it. The oily substance concerns me. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: July-27-2008 at 11:50am
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Is the sight tube - the overflow tube that empties into the carb?... it's a little dark in color. How would this effect the performance rather than a carb rebuild? THANKS |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: July-27-2008 at 11:54am
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The sight tube runs from the fuel pump to the flame arrestor. If you have gas/oil in that tube the pump needs to be replaced. Depending on the issue with your pump, you could be thinning the oil with gas and you'll have fried bearings before long. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: JasonR
Date Posted: July-27-2008 at 1:52pm
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The pump is mechanical powered off of the cam. If you have a failure in the mechanical side of the pump (bearing) then I would assume that it would allow cank oil to enter the pump side giving you what you see. Oil injected into the intake of the carb would enrichen the mixture causing a poor performance. In the reverse I could see that the fuel could get into the cank oil. Either way you need to replace the pump and change the oil. These engines cost too much to not replace 12 bucks worth of oil/filter. ------------- '86 2001 800hrs |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: July-27-2008 at 10:04pm
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So, I replaced my fuel pump. Ran her in the driveway. Pressure in the fuel lines is significantly more. I can already tell it starts without pumping the throttle and SEEMS to Run like a top. I will keep yall posted during my next outing. |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: September-09-2008 at 4:43pm
| In case you didnt see my other post about going back to points from a failed e-module, I seem to get an easier cold start, especially after changing the ballast resistor. As 79 has written, maybe the timing was off with the e-module, as I never checked it when I put it in. So, maybe my upgrade was actually a downgrade! As most are. |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: September-09-2008 at 5:21pm
NO you just never finished the install by not setting the timing and carb correctly and expected the new conversion to perform a magic trick it's not capable of with out being installed completely. Most aparts are install and adjust not just bolt them on and go and that's what got you into trouble. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: September-09-2008 at 6:20pm
| Back then (2001) when I installed it, I did not have all the help from CCF and folks like you to show me light/spark! I dont think the instructions mention checking timing, but I can see how it would be neccessary. |