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79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2007 at 1:02am
way too much over kill. All you need to do is use your regular road cover and use one support pole behind the motor box, then throw a large tarp over that covering the platform and the rest of the boat and securely tie the tarp around the boat and running the ropes under the boat so everything is snug and not flapping in the breeze. Never once did I have a problem with too much snow on it.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2007 at 7:40am
Chris, Sorry but I don't feel Matt's method is overkill. I have used it building a ridge support for the tarp. Maybe I'm in a area (northern Wisconsin) that gets more snow than you do plus I wasn't around through the winter to remove accumlulated snow. With your method, I have seen broken windshields.

Looks good Matt, Don't forget to use some kind of a spacer at the tarp and the gunnel to provide some ventilation. I have seen quite a mess with mold in spring if the boat is sealed. This is why a good shrink wrapper will put vents in the plastic. A open ended small plywood box on each side and made so it hangs over the gunnel to keep the tarp away works. Don't forget to put the drier softener/anti static sheets inside the boat to keep the varmits out. I have also used comercial dried coyote urine in old nylons hung in the boat too. It's made for it and I felt safer than the old drier sheet trick.


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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79nautique View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2007 at 11:00am
pete I don't know way to much over kill to me, and have you ever heard of this stuff call Damp-rid a must for any winter storage.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2007 at 11:16am
Chris, Absolutely the buckets of Damp-rid are great. I do know that if you don't put enough of them in the boat that they become saturated and stop working so that's why I like to see some means of venting. A lot depends on the amount of water left in the bilge and wet carpet etc.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NAUTI84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2007 at 11:38am
Matt,
I'll agree w/ Pete, Looks Good!
In the NorthEast it's that heavy wet snow that usually gets the best of them. The key is to have the ridge high enough to keep the snow from being able to build-up on the wide transom area.
At the N.E.CCF reunion two years ago there was a good tip for keeping it mildew free -
Fill a couple of buckets with charcoal that you use for the grill. Put one up front and one in back. Worked great for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 12:22am
Cool. Thanks for the tips on the venting and varmit repellent too. I hadn't thought of that. Appreciate the help! :)

I'm also having prop removal issues that I need help with. Can you point me in the right direction for info on that subject too?
Matt
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 7:40am
Matt, What's the problem with the prop? Do you have or have access to a puller?


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:23am
Pete,

I do have a puller. I also spent an hour last night searching the threads here on the site for a similar problem to mine.

I haven't yet tried just yanking on it with my hands but I've tried getting the puller on there with not much luck.

The problem is that the strut is too close to the prop to fit the puller in their. And the position of the rudder is too close to the drive shaft to allow the puller to be properly aligned with the drive shaft.

When I go to turn the steering wheel to move the rudder, it feels frozen up or something and doesn't want to move. I tried to turn the rudder itself and it doesn't want to move. It's been cold here so I'm thinking something in the steering could be frozen. I thought better to leave it and not break anything, wait for the warmer weather and try again to move the rudder.

The thing is the prop needs some lovin' and ofcourse I'd love to have that fixed during the off season rather than during potential boating time! Any thoughts Pete?
Matt
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curvylake View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:32am
Oh yeah,

I also tried heating the prop with a torch and tapping the prop with a mini sledge and punch. Noticed little indentations from the punch on the prop and decided to stop that too.
Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:36am
Im not Pete, but I have a suggestion. It sounds like the steering cable is frozen up due to the cold weather. Its best not to force it. In the future, give the wheel a turn every month or so to keep it free. Instead, disconnect the cable from the rudder- its only 1 bolt. Then, turn the rudder with your hands to give yourself enough clearance to get the puller on. Put some tension on the puller, and give the hub of the prop a shot with a soft hammer. Tighten the puller again, repeat. It'll come.
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:44am
Matt, Follow Tims suggestion. I'd like to add that since the prop is so close to the strut, that you will need to diconnect the coupling at the trans so the shaft and prop can be pulled towards the stern. You should do a alignment on it anyway so unbolting the coupling isn't a loss. You should have between a 1/2" and 1" space between the strut and the prop. Maybe someone put a shorter shaft in.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:48am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Matt, Follow Tims suggestion. I'd like to add that since the prop is so close to the strut, that you will need to diconnect the coupling at the trans so the shaft and prop can be pulled towards the stern. You should do a alignment on it anyway so unbolting the coupling isn't a loss. You should have between a 1/2" and 1" space between the strut and the prop. Maybe someone put a shorter shaft in.

Agreed, but you would think that the decreased shaft length would give you plenty of room between the prop and rudder. Strange.

With my puller, I only need ~1/4" between the prop and strut to get it on. Something is wrong if you cant get the puller between them.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:57am
the prop should be about 1/2" from the strut for best performance, from the factory a lot of the earlier models where about 1" away from the strut. I know when I replaced my prop shaft that I did have it shortened to 49 1/2" instead of the typical 50" stock.

I doubt that the cable is frozen shouldn't be any water in to freeze. It's going to be stiff so give the rudder a steady strong pull and it should go, well unless you have something in the front seat locking up the steering wheel that is.

Also are you using a prop puller or is it some other type of puller that you are using?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 12:11pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Something is wrong if you cant get the puller between them.


Maybe the taper in the prop hub is too large?
1988 BFN-sold



"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 10:54pm
Your suggestions are much appreciated!

I will make an effort to do the things you guys suggested. Right now it's freezing rain and dark out.

I should mention this is my first boat and I'm in love with it. I've enjoyed the few hours I spent on the water immensley and have enjoyed winterizing and tinkering this past few weeks, but I also obviously don't know alot about them. I will continue to search the forums here for info and will write back to this thread as soon as I touch the boat again (maybe this weekend) .... but...

Could someone please explain the best way to search for info and topics on this site? I looked through 49 pages of threads last night and it was hard to find the info I was looking for. I don't have any literature or manuals at this point and I'm not the most savy mechanic or computer person...so your guys info and time is very, very, very appreciated. Thanks a bunch.

The boat is an '82 Tique w/ a 302. I was using an actual prop puller but their appears to be around only an 1/8th inch gap from strut to prop. I think I read somewhere on how to pull the shaft last night but will have to try and search again. Don't know how to do an alignment and same with even getting to the steering cable near the prop! Back cover should come off pretty easy right? The point is, thanks for your patience and time. Look forward to learning and loving some more. These boats kick ass!!
Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:17pm
Matt, welcome to the site.
There is a lot of info to be gained here if you can sift thru the BS,Sarcasm and Rambling that comes from this group of misfits.
Not only will we give advice and instructions on any topic, if you supply the drinks and food you could possibly have some of us show up to help.
Remove the rear seat and you will see the link arm and the bolt that holds it all together.
As far as the clearance between the prop and the strut, it could be that the shaft has moved forward inside the coupling.Removal is the only sure way to see if this has happened.
Keep us posted as to progress on this project, again WELCOME........Boat Dr
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-11-2007 at 11:22pm
ok to start are you sure you winterized it correctly?

to disconnect the prop shaft is pretty easy. Lift the motor box and at the back in the center of the boat you will see where the shaft connects to the transmission there are two couplings connected by four bolts. Remove the the four nuts and bolts and then you can pull on the prop to separate the two coupling's one is attached to the shaft and the other is part of the tranny. Maybe Tim can post a picture for you.

To get to the steering cable there is a panel behind the back seat cushion just remove the back cushion and then remove the vertical panel and then you will see the tiller arm and cable under the gas tank close to the transom and remove the one bolt attaching the two you should be able to figure it out pretty easily once you see it. Start there and we'll move on later.

damn it Doc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2007 at 12:40am
Thanks Gentlemen!

That's a helpful start for me next time out. I'll check it all out asap. It winterized correctly thanks to my buddy in NC, whom I visited on the way home when I was dragging the boat from Alabama. He's a long time CC guy and super anal, which is great. He's got an '86 SN.

Wish I didn't have to go to work so I could put this puppy to sleep for the winter and get started on other projects around the house. Oh well, it'll get done.

Would an 'alignment' be done on the shaft by a shop like when they redo the prop? Thanks in advance, you guys have been great!!
Matt
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2007 at 1:29am
do a search for alignment on this site Eric explains in detail the procedure. You are basically adjusting the motor and tranny mounts so that the two faces of the couplings (prop shaft and transmission output shaft) are square to each other something you need to check every year at the beginning of the season or again if you unfortunately hit something with the prop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2007 at 8:14am
Matt, You mentioned that you looked at 49 pages the other night. Have you been using the sites search feature? It is a great tool but the key word entered in it will make a difference. For example, you would want to put in the word "alignment" to look for info and the procedure of adusting the engine mounts. If you put in "shaft" you may end up some of the PLBC guys ranting about a "mine is bigger than yours" topic. (You stick with us long enough and you'll get to know what to expect from the group!)

The Doc had a excelent point about the prop shaft moving forward in the coupling. Get it disconnected and see what's inside.

Look for a local prop shop that can check your prop and do any needed repairs. I do not recomend taking it to a marina because they just send it to the prop shop and then add a fee on the bill. You can also ship it to Delta (one of our sponsors-link above) and they will do a good job for you.

Keep us informed.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2007 at 8:25am
Matt, Here's a link to Eric's thread on alignment. He by the way is our on site transmission specialist. He does it for a living and takes care of everone here who spells his name with a C rather than a K!!! Don't ever make the mistake of using a K!!! I think I'm going to live with it till I die!

Eric's thread and pictorial


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77 Tique

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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-12-2007 at 11:08am
But Pete it was ORIGINAL when you did it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2007 at 5:28pm
Ok Gents,

I was able to do most of what you mentioned this morning before work. Got the rudder turned, seperated the shaft at the tranny coupling. It appears (from memory this morning) that the end of the shaft was about flush with the coupling that's attached to it.

Is that the correct position or has the shaft moved?

There's room now to get the puller on but....

The problem is the puller itself. The bolt on the prop puller is about 6 inches long. Too long, even with the rudder turned. I need to try and get a different bolt for the puller. The friend whom I barrowed it from has much bigger, older, wooden Chris Crafts. Will be in touch soon, hopefully :)

And thanks for the help with searches, suggestions and the 'alignment' thread. Very Cool.
Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-13-2007 at 11:05pm
Matt, The shaft end should be flush with the inside face of the coupling so the shaft is probably 1/2" short.

The puller that you borrowed from your friend sounds like a gear puller and not a prop puller. This may be one of the reasons you are having a problem with getting it on as well as the rudder interfering.
Here's a couple styles of pullers made for props:





Does the puller you are using look like ether of them?


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote curvylake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2007 at 2:12am
No, defenetely not.

The puller I have has 3 'splines' attached to a central piece that hook around the prop and a bolt going through the center of the piece that drives into the end of the shaft. Guess I should look into buying a proper prop puller if you will.

Thanks for the info Pete. I'll be working on it.
Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2007 at 7:28am
Matt, From your decription it does sound like a gear puller, Now that you have the coupling separated, you will have room to get the arms behind the hub of the prop. It should work so you don't have to run out and get a puller.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-14-2007 at 12:55pm
Well, it's been a while.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Matt, The shaft should be flush with the face. the shaft is probably 1/2" short.

your friend may be getting it on as well as interfering.
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