Steering cable ID and questions

Hey All. I have a 89 SN2001 I bought last autumn and have been slowly going through. The steering at slow speeds has always left a lot to be desired, and I’ve been going through old threads to see if anything jumps out. Yesterday I discovered that the clamp block is definitely out of adjustment (rudder turns visibly more to port than to starboard), and I have more turns of the wheel to port than to starboard as well. Clamp block also has significant slop in the ball joint, so I think it’s time to replace it. However, I’m wondering now if perhaps someone at some point installed a shorter throw cable, since it really doesn’t seem like the rudder turns that far in either direction. (Of note, friends 22’ wake boats turn significantly tighter at idle speeds than my 19’ ski boat) Is there a way to verify what cable is on the boat? I assume a part number should be stamped somewhere, any hints for where to look? The other thing I found odd was that the wheel only has ~2 3/4 turns from lock-to-lock (1 3/4 turns one direction, 1 turn in the other), which seems minimal but I don’t have a point of comparison; is total lock to lock wheel travel a function of cable throw, or helm design? Thanks for any advice!

Awesome, thanks Keno. Will pull the floor back out tonight and look for the part number and make sure I don’t need to order the ($365) cable when I place my order for the clamp block.

Yeah, hundred bucks after tax and shipping just for the clamp block. Is what it is. Assuming I do need to replace the cable with the correct one…I’ve read a bit about replacing the rotary helm with the later type rack and pinion. Looks like cost is comparable between the two routes, assuming my rotary helm is in good shape otherwise it’s actually less to go with the rack and pinion helm and cable. So the question arises, would it be better to “upgrade” to the rack style steering if the cable needs to be replaced? If I have to replace the cable and then discover that some of that slop was in the helm and have to replace that too, then I’m really into the “big bucks”.

You should measure the length of the steering tube also to see what you have.

To me it looks like you have all the right parts except the cable, which is probably what you already figured out too. 

There’s a guy parting out an ‘87 probably has the cable block. 

KENO wrote: He might say it would work, but it's older, coming out of a boat that's being parted out, and may be in worse shape than what he has now

Just because it has rotted stringers and hull is delaminated doesn’t mean it has a ton of hours on it.🤔
May have sat in the water uncared for, can’t hurt to send a PM to save maybe 75 bucks.😉

Just to follow up on this, my new cable and clamp block arrived today from Nautique Parts. Sure enough, both ends of the new cable are about two inches longer than the old cable for the longer throw. After installing the new cable, I picked up almost a full turn of the wheel from lock to lock (about 3.5 turns lock to lock now). Also, I was trying to decide how much play was expected in the ball joint of the clamp block before I ordered the new one. Ordered anyways, figured I may as well replace it while I was in there. The new one had zero play, so glad I did.

Some tips for anyone installing a new steering cable. I’d thought I’d read some suggestions to tie a rope to the aft end of the old cable (through the hole where the tiller arm connects) and to pull the old cable up and out from the helm end under the bow. I spent probably an hour fighting with the cable trying to get it the last little bit through the hole under the bow where the wiring harness and control cables also come up, but it kept hanging up. Finally I decided to try the other way, tied and taped the rope to the helm end and pulled out from the rudder end. It came right out with almost no effort. Then used the rope to pull the new cable back through, again with very little effort. Much easier than trying to pull the end with the long rod through. Lesson learned.

Ah yeah that makes sense. Anyways, thanks for the tips on identifying what I had and solutions, KENO. Much appreciated.