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jerry f 
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Joined: August-27-2020 Location: landing,nj Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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 Topic: 351 ford coolingPosted: May-07-2021 at 2:15pm |
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got this 66 mustang end of last season and ran it only for about 1to2 hours with no problem. Over the winter I took off the thermostat housing and there was no thermostat and no recess in the manifold or the therm housing to sit a thermostat in so i made a spacer and put in the 180 thermostat. Now this month started her up and ran for about 10 minutes with earmuff attached underneath. the port side manifold is hot and pushing hot water and the starboard side is cool. and the water temp gauge has not registered and temp yet but has power. need some input. thanks,jerry
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jf
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jerry f
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Joined: August-27-2020 Location: landing,nj Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: May-07-2021 at 2:29pm |
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also i used an automotive thermostat and its mounted in the upper thermostat housing. im new at V8 boats and dont know if there is a lower thermostat housing also and if so what should be in there if anything. Jerry f
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jf
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10643 |
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Posted: May-07-2021 at 8:12pm |
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I think we've been here before.
Here's a link to your thread from last year with pictures of what you have and also pictures of a PCM thermostat housing setup. Like mentioned in that thread it's a "mongrel" it's a PCM engine but the externals look to be Interceptor from what was probably the original 289 in the boat. You'd be better off with a 140 degree thermostat when things are all straightened out since it's a boat in fresh water. Maybe the port manifold has more rust and corrosion buildup in it causing it to get less cooling flow through it. Are the hoses from the thermostat going to the manifolds pretty much equal temperature, they should be since the water to each is coming from the same place. In the long run, you'd probably be better off with new manifolds and a PCM type thermostat and cooling setup. PS Gotta love the old cars in the link too.  |
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Nautiquehunter
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Joined: December-31-2008 Location: Lake Lanier GA Status: Offline Points: 1010 |
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Posted: May-08-2021 at 6:20am |
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After days of chasing down an overheat problem on my 67 351W it was the impeller itself causing the problem.It looked fine but wouldn't pull water to prime itself. Make sure you only buy a Sherwood brand impeller there are a lot of junk Chinese impellers around . Nautique Parts or Skidim are good to deal with. Carbureted engines should use a 143 degree thermostat 180 is too hot.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: May-08-2021 at 6:50am |
Jerry, Is this your engine from the previous thread that Ken linked? If so, the old Interceptors used dual cavity RWP's. One for each side of the V8 block so, you will have two RWP impellers. Open it up and check both impellers.
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jerry f
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Joined: August-27-2020 Location: landing,nj Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: May-09-2021 at 7:15am |
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thanks are you saying the 2 impellors are in this long silver tube. also thje port side was pushing less water so i pulled the hot manifold yesterday and flushed it with ahose and did see some junk come out. hoses were all unobstructed. took out the thermostat also. It had no thermostat when i bought it last year, thats how the last owner ran it.
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jf
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KENO
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Posted: May-09-2021 at 7:33am |
Jerry Here's an old CCF picture of a 289 Interceptor (Reid P) with the same cooling system as yours with the yellow arrow pointing at the water pump. The silver thing is an oil cooler. The pump on this vintage Small Block Ford Interceptor might just have one impeller.  Or here's your picture with the arrow drawn in  |
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jerry f
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Posted: May-09-2021 at 9:08am |
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got it yea that was a dumb question by me knew it right after i hit send. lol
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jf
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jerry f
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Posted: May-09-2021 at 11:05am |
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took out the thermostat and cked all the hoses and pulled the port side manifold and flushed it with a hose. some dark liquid looking stuff came out for a second (possibly impellor residue??)put it back together started her up ran at idle 1000 rpm for about 15 minutes. water temp gauge stayed below 120 (there is no lower reading on the gauge) and the port side exhaust is pushing hotter water and steam, other side no steam and warm water. also water pump is right up against the floor and xmember. looks like i would have to raise the engine to change the impeller.???? any suggestions. dont see how to post pics
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jf
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KENO
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Posted: May-09-2021 at 11:28am |
In this picture you should have roughly the same temperature on the 2 lines with green arrows. That would be the temperature of water leaving the engine. The temperature of the 2 lines with red arrows should be about equal and a lot cooler than the other lines because that's water leaving the raw water pump going to the engine and the 2 lines send some cool water to the manifolds. The port side with the oil cooler could be slightly warmer than the starboard but not enough to cause your issues. If those temperatures are checked with an IR gun or your hand to be like mentioned above, then it seems logical that the manifold on the port side is the issue. If you post your findings that'll help to figure things out. Looks like the water pump interference issue is there in this picture of the other engine. It's in the same vintage mustang too, as a guess. maybe you can unbolt the mount from the engine instead of the pump from the mount .
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-09-2021 at 5:23pm |
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Yes, there are some items on our marine engines that you need to be a contortionist to get to. The rwp on my 312 is up against the sole too plus under the bulkhead between the forward and aft cockpits.
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jerry f
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Posted: May-11-2021 at 8:01am |
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exhaust flappers-- did the 66 mustang come with internal or external flappers. do i need flappers on my 66. also can i change my impellor without raising the engine.
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jf
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-11-2021 at 8:04am |
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No exhaust flappers in 66.
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jerry f
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Posted: May-11-2021 at 2:03pm |
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i took an 18" long rod and gently pushed it into each exhaust. on the starboard side thats running cooler and pumping good water i hit an obstruction on the hotter port side which is pumping less water it went all the way in with no obstruction. Also on the hotter side i can put my hand in the exhaust water and its not burning hot. i have a IR thermometer coming today. Also I dont see a lower thermostat housing so i assume there is only the upper silver one in Kenos photo(same as mine) so i will put a 140 degree thermostat in there. neither the housing or the manifold has a recess to sit the thermostat on which is strange to me. I figure i will make an adaptor for the thermostat to sit in either out of gasket material or metal. Any help on these topics.
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jf
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: May-11-2021 at 3:21pm |
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I think Pete or Ken had mentioned before that the obstruction could be in the exhaust manifold itself. Could be old impeller pieces,sediment etc.Checking that would involve removing the end cap and the elbow on the back end of it,making new gaskets and inevitably repairing the bolts that break off when you do go to pull it apart. Most likely the last 2 you go to remove..... do this at last resort
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KENO
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Posted: May-12-2021 at 6:41am |
Unbolt the pump from the engine, you shouldn't have to move it forward at all, just slide it up, down or sideways whichever works easier for you and you'll have the pump in your hands, then you can take it apart to get to the impeller.
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jerry f
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Posted: May-13-2021 at 1:47pm |
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infrared results ran in the driveway with fake a lake for 12 minutes 900-1050 rpm port side manifold 140 degrees, starboard side 120 degrees. thermostat housing 97 degrees. No thermostat installed. just got 140 degree thermostat wondering if i should install it. temps seem ok to me, right? both exhaust pumping clear water.
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jf
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-13-2021 at 4:03pm |
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Jerry,
I'd install the T stat. It will maintain consistant temps with different raw water temps like it's supposed to do.
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MrMcD
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Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3590 |
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Posted: May-13-2021 at 8:49pm |
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Running on a garden hose does not tell you if your cooling system is working. The garden hose pressure will flow water through your system and you learn nothing. Good to test if the engine runs but that is all.
If you want to know if your cooling system works the driveway test is to take the water inlet off the bottom of your boat, usually this is one hose clamp, pull the hose free and insert it in a 5 gallon bucket. Fill the bucket nearly to the top and start the engine. Have your hose ready to keep the bucket filled as the engine runs. A good working raw water pump will pull a normal flow through the engine, enough to empty the 5 gallon bucket in just a minute or so. If your raw water pump is not working it will not pass this test in the bucket or on the lake. I have had impellers fail slowly. First sign is they will not pick up enough water at idle so temps start rising. Speed up and the temps drop to normal. On tear down the impeller looks good. Close inspection shows that impeller has scratches on the vanes from stuff going through the system or they are stiff and shiny, just these scratches can cause the impeller to loose some suction. New impeller solves this issue. I live in the HOT west, impellers only last 2 years out here. Run them 3 years and they fail and leave you stranded. Age and heat kills them not the amount of use. Maybe in Canada they last 10 years but not in Sacramento CA. Any leak on the suction side will cause the identical issues. Every hose, clamp and connection has to be sealed tight. As far as blockages causing overheats, yep, that happens also. Someone may have had an impeller fall apart 3 years ago, if the chunks from the failed impeller get in the wrong spot you will have overheat. Rule of thumb, if an impeller falls apart on your boat, keep tearing things down till you find all the lost chunks. They will be in the cooling system somewhere and haunt you if you don't find and remove them. The best $30 bucks you will spend is for a new impeller ever 2 years. You will never have a failure. We went on a 4 day ski trip with friends, one buddy had an impeller failure on the first day, he borrowed my spare. After install the boat kept overheating. I kept telling him to pull all the hoses and find all the chunks that were missing from the failed impeller. He kept trying to shortcut the repair with no success. Finally he took everything apart and found the missing chunks and his boat worked like new again. As already mentioned the chunks can block the exhaust cooling or the engine cooling. I hope you have your boat ready for use. Summer is here! I think it was already mentioned but adding a "Timmy T" to your coolant intake line saves a lot of time and eliminates the need for a bucket to test your cooling system before taking the boat off your driveway. I added mine several years ago. Thanks to Tim Benjamin for teaching us how to add that nice tool.
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jerry f
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Joined: August-27-2020 Location: landing,nj Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: May-14-2021 at 12:31pm |
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OK now what is a timmy T and where is the info on it thanks
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jf
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jerry f wrote: