Removing Protec & Throttlebody, installing carb |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10606 |
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There's a chance it might seal up on it's own. About as much as seeing Bigfoot and the Loch Ness monster playing together
If the leak isn't very bad, you could join the "if it don't slip, let it drip" club for a while, so you can get all your bugs worked out, then get through the season and get it fixed or tear into it yourself. Oil absorbent towels/socks can help keep things like your lake from getting an oil sheen from your bilge pump. As far as your 2500 rpm stumble, I'm still doing some thinking on that. PS buy yourself one of the many Holley books that are available, it'll be real handy
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10606 |
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Eric
Here in the link below (on page 19 of the printed manual) is how PCM tells you to start their carbureted engines, it sounds suspiciously pretty much like what was described earlier |
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Erikgundy98
Groupie Joined: February-09-2021 Location: Vancouver, wa Status: Offline Points: 62 |
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Could the perfect pass be doing the stumbling? There is another electronic piece under the copilot seat, that was just hanging (not actually fixed to a rigid location in the boat), and honestly I don’t know which way to sim it. It says to aim towards the bow if using north facing magnets, and sim to the stern if using south facing magnets. I don’t know what this means, so I don’t know which direction to aim it.
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Erikgundy98
Groupie Joined: February-09-2021 Location: Vancouver, wa Status: Offline Points: 62 |
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So, no stumble when Perfect Pass is turned “Off.” I guess I’ll figure out how that thing works later. For now, hoping the transmission stops leaking, or it’s gonna be a short summer.
Does the “ignition” button have to be depressed to run the “automatics bilge pump”? Assuming there is no power to anything “ignition” related, aka coil, etc when the key is not turned “on”. Is that correct? Fun day fishing and boating. Thanks for all the help. I couldn’t have had today with my family without your help! |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10606 |
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Well, you've come a long way from a pile of expensive parts with no decent instructions, sounds like the boat runs good and no labor charges were involved.
The auto bilge pump should be wired so it'll run with the ignition breaker OFF. And like you said, you should have no power to anything ignition related with the key in OFF. Now it's time for "the talk" No, no nothing to do with those teenage years, just your transmission. I guess it's bad enough that you won't be living with it for a while based on your last comment about a short summer. If you can figure out if it's leaking from the front or back, doing a seal on either end isn't too bad. Assuming it's a PCM 40A, somebody here just did the rear seal with it still in the boat but it has to come out for the front seal. You can do some searching about transmission removal, seal replacement etc here on CCF. You can also read about damper plate replacement while the transmission is out and decide if you want to do that too. Keep in mind that your PCM 40A takes it's own "special" damper in the 200 dollar or so range. Here's a link to a recent rear seal thread complete with a phone number for Joe at FFI marine who would have parts and probably some free advice too. Meanwhile I'm gone for the next 4 or 5 days so enjoy the rest of the weekend, do some reading and you'll be able to get through a seal job.
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