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Prestige trailer bunk question

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    Posted: August-12-2020 at 8:40pm
Hey folks, by all appearances, and paperwork, my '96 SN delivered with the Prestige trailer it's sitting on. For those on here with this trailer, you know that it has two curved bunks that are attached, and sit directly on the two steel rails. There are no other bunks on this single-axle trailer. My bunks have come loose and for the life of me, I cannot figure out how they were originally attached. The bunks have likely been re-carpeted, and my best best guess, from looking at some small holes in the top of the rails, is screws were lagged from the bunks into the top of the rails, before carpet? But no patches from screw holes from above.

In any event, it's a crapola setup. I made a temp repair with some heavy duty SS hose clamps, in a couple places to keep the bunks stabilized, and that works plenty well, but is not a long-term fix.

Economically, I'd like to repair what I have.

Here is a picture pre-repair showing the jury-rig the PO did, that clearly didn't work: 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfootr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2020 at 10:22pm
Same type trailer on my 89’ SN. Wood screws go up through the bottom of the top rail and into the wooden bunk.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 9:57am
From the picture it looks like the bunk is attached to a box steel rail.  If so you have a several options.

1: Drill all the way through both sides of the rail and secure the bunk with a long bolt.
2: Use the existing holes on the top of the bunk and use a larger lag bolt.
3: Drill new holes through the top of the rail and secure with lag bolts.
4: Drill large holes in the side of the rails that allow you to access the bolt and secure a nut underneath the top rail.
5: Any combination of the above.

There are more options but these are probably the easiest.  The problem with the box steel trailers is that they rust from the inside out.  The original holes are rusted and won't hold the same size bolt anymore.  Any holes that you drill will potentially weaken the rails over time.  If it was mine I would drill one very small hole all the way through on each end and secure with a bolt all the way through the rail and then use a few lag bolts between the ends either using the existing holes or drill new ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 10:38am
Spade / Forstner bit to counter sink the head large enough to install with socket, then drill pilot hole then use these in 2" https://www.mcmaster.com/self-tapping-screws/super-corrosion-resistant-high-strength-410-stainless-steel-hex-head-drilling-screws-for-metal/
That's how its attached from factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 10:50am
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

From the picture it looks like the bunk is attached to a box steel rail.  If so you have a several options.

1: Drill all the way through both sides of the rail and secure the bunk with a long bolt.
2: Use the existing holes on the top of the bunk and use a larger lag bolt.
3: Drill new holes through the top of the rail and secure with lag bolts.
4: Drill large holes in the side of the rails that allow you to access the bolt and secure a nut underneath the top rail.
5: Any combination of the above.

There are more options but these are probably the easiest.  The problem with the box steel trailers is that they rust from the inside out.  The original holes are rusted and won't hold the same size bolt anymore.  Any holes that you drill will potentially weaken the rails over time.  If it was mine I would drill one very small hole all the way through on each end and secure with a bolt all the way through the rail and then use a few lag bolts between the ends either using the existing holes or drill new ones.

Hey guys, thanks for the info. So, the existing screws must have been lagged into the box rail from on top of the bunk, then the bunks carpeted. But these bunks are very well carpeted. Interesting.

I think a couple of though-bolts on each end with a couple of lags in the middle is likely my best bet, and counter sink the heads with some SS washers to get some strength against the wood. I'll use only slightly larger bolts in the existing holes.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Spade / Forstner bit to counter sink the head large enough to install with socket, then drill pilot hole then use these in 2" https://www.mcmaster.com/self-tapping-screws/super-corrosion-resistant-high-strength-410-stainless-steel-hex-head-drilling-screws-for-metal/
That's how its attached from factory.

It's done just like I stated above!!  I've rebuilt 2 Ramlin trailers and the bunks are attached the same way on yours, don't over think a simple process.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by ultrarunner ultrarunner wrote:

Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

1: Drill all the way through both sides of the rail and secure the bunk with a long bolt

There are more options but these are probably the easiest.  The problem with the box steel trailers is that they rust from the inside out.  The original holes are rusted and won't hold the same size bolt anymore.  Any holes that you drill will potentially weaken the rails over time.  If it was mine I would drill one very small hole all the way through on each end and secure with a bolt all the way through the rail and then use a few lag bolts between the ends either using the existing holes or drill new ones.

I think a couple of though-bolts on each end

Why drill more holes than needed???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 1:21pm
Yeah, good point on additional holes. I think using the next size up self-tapping screws in a few of the existing holes, and counter sunk as discussed, will take care of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 1:24pm
Originally posted by ultrarunner ultrarunner wrote:

Yeah, good point on additional holes. I think using the next size up self-tapping screws in a few of the existing holes, and counter sunk as discussed, will take care of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 1:50pm
Ok, someone come borrow my boat and bring me back the trailer for a day ;-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 2:09pm
When mine failed like yours I tried using one size up screws and they only lasted a few years.  I ended up doing a complete box channel to c-channel conversion on my trailer but yours isn't there yet.  That's why I suggested the bolts on each end because I think they will secure the bunks better than the lags and help the lags last longer.  If you go with just the lags keep an eye on them and you can always add the bolts later.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 2:35pm
Ok, more good info. 

Paul, it appears the existing screws are 3/16. Would 1/4 inch work, and what length would you recommend given I'm going through an approximately 2 inches prior to the steel? I'm thinking it makes sense to keep the counter-sink to a minimum.

Thanks,

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 2:47pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

When mine failed like yours I tried using one size up screws and they only lasted a few years.  I ended up doing a complete box channel to c-channel conversion on my trailer but yours isn't there yet.  That's why I suggested the bolts on each end because I think they will secure the bunks better than the lags and help the lags last longer.  If you go with just the lags keep an eye on them and you can always add the bolts later.

Interesting Sean. When I realized what I was dealing with, my first thought was to ditch this setup and attach teflon directly to the steel channel, OR, clamping elevated bunks to the box channel. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 3:04pm
Those ideas may work.  I thought about welding horizontal tabs that stick out on the side of the rails near the bunks then having a matching tab on the bunk and just bolt the tabs together.  That is sort of like your elevated bunk idea.  Just depends how much work you want to do and if you think it will make the trailer last longer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 4:41pm
Originally posted by ultrarunner ultrarunner wrote:

Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

When mine failed like yours I tried using one size up screws and they only lasted a few years.  I ended up doing a complete box channel to c-channel conversion on my trailer but yours isn't there yet.  That's why I suggested the bolts on each end because I think they will secure the bunks better than the lags and help the lags last longer.  If you go with just the lags keep an eye on them and you can always add the bolts later.

Interesting Sean. When I realized what I was dealing with, my first thought was to ditch this setup and attach teflon directly to the steel channel, OR, clamping elevated bunks to the box channel. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Mark

How would you attach the Teflon or elevated bunk?   I'm thinking of looking into this system for my 2000 Sport trailer which is due for an overhaul.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 5:13pm
Teflon is easy. I get thick enough stock, and simply lag into the channel. Does away with the wood, that will just continue to break down as it gets wet. 

Elevated bunks would require a reversible bracket. Attached to the channel. Bolted top and bottom, that has holes that will accept a bunk. Not unlike how we attach bunks to our lifts. But I don't really want the boat elevated.

I think short term, I'll just reattach what I have. And rethink in the spring. If all I did was trailer twice a year, as in my previous life in Rochester, I could get away with the simple temp fix I have already done. BUT, not being on the water, and choosing to keep the boat on the trailer, means hauling a LOT. Which is nice for exploring and having the boat wherever we go. Just 500 miles on it for the Cape Cod vaca to Chatham and back. Looking at 400 next week to the Adirondacks. So, I'll put some miles on this trailer, as it's in too good a shape to justify a new one....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 5:52pm
The reason I asked about attachment is the frame and lags usually rust out before the wood needs replaced. If you're going to screw the Teflon on to the frame you may end up with the same issue.
 
Mine has the original bunks and carpet so 20 years isn't to bad, not sure it's worth reinventing the wheel at this point. I tow everywhere so it will get more use/wear and tear than the PO since he only towed a couple times a year so I may have to change the carpet more than once in the next 20 yearsWink   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ultrarunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-13-2020 at 6:02pm
You're totally right Paul. I'll adequately secure what I have and press on, and it'll likely pass to the new owner in plenty good shape, if I feel the need to get an OB at some point ;-)
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