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Prop shaft tight 01Nactique

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Richard Wong View Drop Down
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    Posted: January-26-2005 at 1:22pm
Any fan can advise me how to change the prop shaft holder(the brass holder near the prop),since I think that before blended and cause the shaft tight,(hard to rotate by hand,) before the boat prop hit stone so prop and shaft damaged, there are four screws fixing the holder,must remov the engine? this service man said need,its too big job! any fan had change it without remove the engine?   
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Darrel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darrel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2005 at 2:33pm
Are you looking to change out the strut or the strut bushing? Either way no need to remove the engine.
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-26-2005 at 5:24pm
I have a follow-up question: How do you know if your strut is bent? Should the shaft turn freely if it is uncoupled from the transmission?

I just removed mine (for replacement) and I had to drive it all the way out. Then again I just had new bushings installed in the strut two weeks before I pulled the shaft.

Is it normal for a shaft to have wear grooves from the packing seal?
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Richard Wong View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard Wong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2005 at 12:28am
The struct blended is the opinion of the svc man who change the prop and the shaft(by eye ,they said that),but I don't see the blend, some body have the same boat and change few times prop and shaft they don't need chane the struct,and I turn their prop by hand much loose than mine,(same before mine), other engineer think the stuff material too tight,; now the shaft can turn free,I can use like normal if don't mine the tight(only tight,I use bigest force to turn it by hand),I think I may need to change the simple struct as well,I hope no need to remove the engine. thanks for reply
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2005 at 12:53am
Richard, If your mechanic changed your shaft gland packing when he changed your shaft, then the shaft should be hard to turn until the first time it is water-tested and re-adjusted according to the drip rate. Is your mechanic experienced with inboards and v-drives?

Jim, You will know your strut is bent if you can't align your engine to your shaft.
current boat
94 Sport Nautique
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78 Martinique
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Richard Wong View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard Wong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2005 at 1:11am
Jameski:the mechanic change all (shaft,prop,and the rubber bearing inside the struct,)when they finish the job,I have water test,the boat go reversely,(they put wrong direction prop),and the steer can't move,later find the steer rod blended)So may be they are not very experienced or not careful,So why I have a doubt for their opinion to romoval the simple shaft holder by take out the engine, if the holder was blended,I asked,how can you connect to the v drive,they can explain clear to me.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2005 at 12:00pm
I would get a new mechanic, if they can't tell which direction prop they are taking off and putting back on they must be real bright   

noooootttt!!!!!!!!
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2005 at 4:51pm
Richard:

Although I am not familiar with v-drive setups, I would not think that the engine had to be removed. The shaft strut is held in place with four machine screws with washers and nuts on the top side. Fist the shaft is removed and then simply unbolt the strut. Now with a v-drive, the engine will be sitting directly over the bolts, but would really think they were reachable.

The center of the bearing should be 90 degress to the center of the base plate. Either measure this yourself or remove the strut and measure/straighten.

The shaft should have quit a bit of resistance when turning by hand, especially with a new bearing and packing ropes. If the strut does not look obviously bent, then I suggest you put the boat in the water (with correct prop) and get it up to speed. If there is not excessive vibration, go with it. Just make sure you periodically check the strut bearing for excellerated wear.
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Richard Wong View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard Wong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2005 at 10:22pm
DAvid:
the shaft tight here means 3-4 times tighter than normal,this is found after change the danager prop and shaft,to unscrew the 4 screw is the point,since the engine just sit on it,the oil pan cover the nuts,so by hand is not reachble,actual, I use the boat few times don't feel any thing wrong,no vibration atall,but still tight,I worry some problem raiselater,eg. this will hurt the v drive unit/dil seal ring?due to the shaft may be revolu not centronic .
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