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How far foward on trailer ?

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    Posted: March-04-2008 at 7:00pm
I have no bow stop on my 80SN. Not sure how
the previous owner loaded without hitting the
trailer jack.

I look across the rear of the trailer and see
that the Prop is even with the end of the
trailer frame rails. If I consider the engine
position, it is forward of the axle by about
a foot. Not sure if engine represents center
of weight.

Is this correct ? Or should it be more off the
rear of the trailer. I know that it will go
no farther forward. Just want to build the
bow stop at the correct position.
Or does anyone out there have an old bow stop
that they are not using ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 7:08pm
Roger, it sounds like its too far forward. The Skier we just bought was a similar in that the motor seemed to be centered about a foot forward of the axle. This made for a VERY heavy tongue weight- it took 3 guys to lift. You want tongue weight to be 10% of the total boat+trailer weight, or roughly 250-300 lbs. You should be able to lift it by yourself.

If I had to guess, I would say that the engine should be just forward (a few inches) of being centered on the axle.

I might be interested in a newer style bowstop as well, if anyone has a few lying around!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 7:10pm
Roger, To determine the position, move the boat until you have 10% of the gross weight of the trailer and boat on the tongue. You can use a bathroom scale under the tongue. So, if the boat and trailer weighs 3000lbs, then you want 300lbs on the tongue. Sometimes trailers are set up with less than 10% but if you go any less than about 8%, you will be taking the chance that the trailer will not track correctly and fishtail.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 7:19pm
Damn Tim!! Again! I need to learn to type faster.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 7:27pm
Thanks guys,

I will find where the wife HID the bathroom
scales and position the boat on the trailer
as you both suggested.

Thanks again,
   Roger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 8:20pm
Tim,

What do you consider NEW syle bow stops. Post a pic if you can.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 8:33pm
Not speaking for Tim,

I was thinking about building something
like this one :

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=239
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 8:39pm
I was thinking of the same style as Roger:



The rounded top is more asthetically pleasing, though the square topped version would still be more functional than the style that's on the Skier trailer currently.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 8:57pm
I was thinking that I could build this out of a chainlink fence top rail.
Make the necessary bends for the top and base and then weld it all together.
Looks like they are mounted to the trailer using U bolts over the frame.
I figure that this would not rust and could be painted if desired.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 9:13pm
Originally posted by critter critter wrote:

I was thinking that I could build this out of a chainlink fence top rail.
Make the necessary bends for the top and base and then weld it all together.
Looks like they are mounted to the trailer using U bolts over the frame.
I figure that this would not rust and could be painted if desired.


That's pretty much how they're made Roger, on the u bolts you can slide a piece of flexible tube over them so they don't scratch the paint on the trailer, that will help prevent rusting as well. That's what I did with my jack stand and spare tire carrier bolts.

Tim, I don't think I could make that continous bend at the top, the mandrels on my bender have a much tighter radius but it could be done with curved 90's at the corners with a short run between.   Won't look quite right but you know me, I get bored easy so if you want me to tackle it let me know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 9:16pm
Ok, on second look at the link Roger posted there is a flat section on the top so they could be made fairly easily. Let me know.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 9:29pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

so they could be made fairly easily. Let me know.


Is this saying the you might be willing to take on building these ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by critter critter wrote:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

so they could be made fairly easily. Let me know.


Is this saying the you might be willing to take on building these ?


Let me figure out what the pipe is going to cost and maybe we can get you setup. Tim, I'll copy you if you want in let me know. We could easily ship them to you or you could pick them up at Green Lake in july if you don't mind waiting. Critter, please keep in mind this is my hobby so I can't gaurantee how fast I could make them up. First things first, I'll get you a price and we'll go from there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 9:52pm
Thanks Alan,
Just your considering this deserves a big thank you. I expect nothing at this juncture.
I was considering getting my son to work one up. He is a better welder than I am.
I fed him for many years and it is time for payback

If it works out, I too would be interested in picking up in Green Lake.
Naturally, would pay when requested, but would not ask to ship.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 9:58pm
Be careful with considering chain link top rail pipe. It is scd. 10 and very light. I don't think it would hold up especially if you do any power loading.

Alan, You did use scd. 40 pipe with your bender? Correct? The 40 is what was used by the factory.

Roger, scd 40 pipe is standard black pipe from the hardware store.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 10:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Roger, scd 40 pipe is standard black pipe from the hardware store.


Better call my son and tell him to start eating them Weaties.. Cheerios are not going to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 10:15pm
Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

Originally posted by critter critter wrote:

Originally posted by 81nautique 81nautique wrote:

so they could be made fairly easily. Let me know.


Is this saying the you might be willing to take on building these ?


Let me figure out what the pipe is going to cost and maybe we can get you setup. Tim, I'll copy you if you want in let me know. We could easily ship them to you or you could pick them up at Green Lake in july if you don't mind waiting. Critter, please keep in mind this is my hobby so I can't gaurantee how fast I could make them up. First things first, I'll get you a price and we'll go from there.

Man, Alan- dont you have enough projects going!? I would definitely be interested if you decide to make a run. If not, no big deal! Pick up at GL would be fine by me- no rush.

After seeing the trailer guides, I have no doubt if you decide to make these, that they will turn out great!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2008 at 10:33pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

After seeing the trailer guides, I have no doubt if you decide to make these, that they will turn out great!


Trailer Guides.. what Trailer Guides ? I searched the Forums and found many hits on trailer guides but nothing on someone making them.
I called Overtons today and they have 48" guides but you now have my interest here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 12:29am
Originally posted by critter critter wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

After seeing the trailer guides, I have no doubt if you decide to make these, that they will turn out great!


Trailer Guides.. what Trailer Guides ? I searched the Forums and found many hits on trailer guides but nothing on someone making them.
I called Overtons today and they have 48" guides but you now have my interest here.


The aftermarket stuff is crap , you need some magicman specials Take a look at page 3 trailer guides. here's the deal with the guides, I can bend a set for you but I don't want to cut and weld on the flanges as I'm not sure how they fit on the different trailers. If you can take care of that part let me know and I'll make them up. $30 a set plus UPS shipping. I sent 2 sets to Connecticut and it cost $24 so that's not too bad.

Pete, yes I did use the scd40 black pipe, it actually bends better than the thin wall as the heavy walls are self supporting during bending. The thin wall stuff kinks badly.

Guys, here's what I'm going to do, I'll make up a bow stop and see how it turns out. If acceptable I'll sell them at cost + a few hours of work and a beer at Green lake and make a donation to the site. Can't promise when but certainly before skiing season sets in cause I won't be hanging around the garage much longer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 12:45am
Critter, Here's a pretty good shot of where my boat sits on the trailer. You can see that my bow stop is welded on from the factory and the stern of the boat is dead even with the end of the trailer rails. Puts the engine just inches forward of the axle. I agree with the others though, if you can adjust your stop point then weigh the tongue and you can get it perfect. I haven't even towed with this trailer yet but I'm hoping the factory got it right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 1:17am
Alan,
That is one good lookin Boat & Trailer.

Thanks for the heads up on the aftermarket stuff. That is what I needed to hear before I purchased anything.

I will have a look at the link and then let you know about the Guides. I (and my son) can weld so if nothing else, may pick up the pipes from you while in Green Lake. The more I pick up while there, the better of a trip it will be for me...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 1:20am
What a awesome lookin' set-up Alan!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 81nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 1:23am
Originally posted by jbear jbear wrote:

What a awesome lookin' set-up Alan!

john


Thanks John, It's finally finished. New wheels, striping is done, guides installed, etc. I'll get some updated photos posted as soon as the sun comes out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 1:37am
Alan,Tim or anyone else I have a late '68 early '69 #2 trailer with the factory bow stop that is some what like here-
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/reference/1963_brochure/index.asp?page=04
It's bolted on with the U bolts.Would you like some pic's and measurements?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote critter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 1:42am
Ok, you sold me.
I really like the ones you made for Tim.
I can do the welding and mounting.

You use PayPal ?
I can pay you for the Guides in advance and just pick them up in Green Lake if it works for you.
As for the Bow Stops, I am in. When you need the contribution"s", let me know.

My dad is a retired Electrician. Has a ton of tools. Next time I see him, I have to ask if he has a thick wall conduit bender. Looks like one of those can come in handy.

Thanks for working with me on this. I really appreciate all the information. I plan on positioning the boat on the trailer correctly this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 2:09am
Alan; I posted to ya on the "Shows on tv" thread...did you see it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kristof Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 5:52am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If I had to guess, I would say that the engine should be just forward (a few inches) of being centered on the axle.


Tim,

I have a double axle trailer, so should the engine be just forward of the middle of the two axles? It's too much forward now and we are going to work on the trailer this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 6:56am
[QUOTE=TRBenj] You want tongue weight to be 10% of the total boat+trailer weight, or roughly 250-300 lbs. You should be able to lift it by yourself.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tullfooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-05-2008 at 10:04am
81

That is one fine looking rig.
Now you need a white 81' F-150 to pull it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-06-2008 at 3:27pm
Originally posted by Kristof Kristof wrote:

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If I had to guess, I would say that the engine should be just forward (a few inches) of being centered on the axle.


Tim,

I have a double axle trailer, so should the engine be just forward of the middle of the two axles? It's too much forward now and we are going to work on the trailer this weekend.

Kristoff, I would say yes- whatever gets you to 10% tongue weight.
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