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Water in my Engine!

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nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2007 at 6:48pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by nuttyskier2002 nuttyskier2002 wrote:

Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by nuttyskier2002 nuttyskier2002 wrote:

Pull your spark plugs and see if you have any water in any of the cylinders. If not, it's not the exhaust manifolds. It could be an intake manifold though. Is yours aluminum? They corrode easier.


please keep your dumb ass malibu comments to your self, your not helping out the guy at all. Aluminum Intake corrosion please. But then again I expect dumb sh*t from a jack ass like you.


Chris, WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM? Can't you deliver a post without cutting someone down or name calling? I'm going to explain how an intake can cause this problem. Pay attention and read very carefully. You might just learn something! There is a water passage that connects the two heads together that goes through the front of the intake. I have seen these corrode through near the flange that bolts to the head. This can happen on the underside of the manifold as well. Now, what is below the intake. That would be the valley of the block where there are drain holes for oil to get back to the pan. Now, I wasn't trying to tell this guy that the intake was his problem. I just mentioned it as a possibility. That's it!

If you had something to suggest that could be this man's problem, why didn't you offer it here? Oh, let me guess, you couldn't spell it. Too many of your posts read just like this one. You hammer people for their comments but you have little to offer in return that someone can actually use. 4023 posts of you calling members names and belittling them and using vulgar language has landed you the "Grand Poopah" status. You must be proud.
   



I only hammer jack ass' like you, Start a Malibu site and offer your worthless banter there.

Yes Aluminum corrodes it also will oxidize instanly too, but you have to have special equipement to detect that too. Now that your scratching your head, what is rust? oxidized iron maybe? what's the time frame for that to start.

You offer nothing of value but tail chasing circles and wild goose escapaids and where do those go no where. Now if that aluminum intake as been on the boat for thirty years then it might corrode through but I really doubt it's been on the boat that long and pigs have a better chance of flying than your theroy's or help.


There you go again with your name calling. I would expect that from a child, but most of us are adults here. So how about offering your advice in a more constructive manner.
They offer medication for symptoms such as yours. It's called Prozac. Try it and maybe you won't be so bitter all the time.

There is a reason that aluminum corrodes at a faster rate than cast iron. When you mix dissimilar metals (iron and aluminum) in a corrosive environment the less noble metal (aluminum) will render itself as an anode. Also, I didn't tell the man that this was his problem, I am merely stated it was a possibility.   Especially since his engine does have 1500 hours. He didn't clarify that his intake was iron until after I posted this so chill out. Besides, it sounds as though there are some rather senior members on here who do agree with me. If pointing this simple fact out makes me a jacka$$, well I guess I'm not the only one on this site. I too am installing an aluminum intake on my boat. But I will keep an eye on mine. What you do is your business. Furthermore, oxidation and corrosion of aluminum are the same thing. And the only detection device it takes is the human eye. It reveals itself as a grayish white colored powder. Now don't you feel smarter? You can now go and post this information on another thread and earn yourself some more "Poopah Points".
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nuttyskier2002 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2007 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

take them off, support the manifold/riser vertically have the hose that feeds the manifold higher than the top of the riser now slowly start pour water until it is full and leaks out where it should, now wait and check back every so often and look for water in the exhaust opening's where water shouldn't be.


Pressure testing the manifold properly involves removing the risers and installing block-off plates and then plugging the rear hole (if not already plugged). Then attach your hose and charge it. If water leaks anywhere, there is a problem.

A block-off can be made of a simple piece of flat aluminum or steel. I've even seen wood be used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2007 at 1:26am
There is a easier simple method. Block off the inlet hoses to both manifolds.
Remove both exhausts, change oil and filter, install the fake a lake, start motor. This is loud and if you don't rev it the fire will stay close to the head.
Run her for a few minutes, check the oil.Still no water, repeat the above.This will tell you where the leak is. Manifolds or the risers, My guess is a leak at the riser connection on the starboard side.......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2007 at 9:01pm
Boat Dr
   The exhaust valve operates around 1200*F (dull red glow)I've had a couple drag race exhaust valves snap the heads off from tempering due to cool air rushing into the open cylinder at shut down. Yes /no?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2007 at 9:09pm
I do not think this is an issue here , less damage than water in the oil.
I would not bring it to 7000 and hold it there ,if you think valves are a problem......
Shove shop towels into the ports on shut down.I would be more concerned of the oil contamination than the valves,JMHO..........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 87BFN owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2007 at 9:53pm
Don't run it to long, nor should you rev it up. Possibilty of warping the heads. Not likely that it will happen but it is a possiblity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2007 at 1:39pm
Some say it is a gasket, others say it is a exhaust manifold/riser problem.

Dont know where to start! I guess start with Boat Dr's suggestion, then start breaking the engine down.

Wow, this isn't fun. At least the weather is getting colder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2007 at 11:31pm
leo0648
There's 10 ways for water to get in the oil.The 1st thing to do is remove the exhaust manifolds & risers and pressure check them. It's not hard to do,put a garden hose fitting in the front, block off the riser passage and turn the water on if water flows out the exhaust it has an internal crack. By doing this you checked 3 of 10. Then make a plan from there.Exhaust manifolds are the most common leak and the easiest to eliminate.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2007 at 8:52pm
lets think about this logically, water going into a cylinder will usually steam clean the plug, pulling the plugs is quick and easy, look for a very clean plug to isolate if it is leaking in that area.
Do you think the water is entering while the engine is running or when it is not running? if it is exhaust manifolds they will leak into the engine when not running and burn off when you start engine and usually you will be able to tell by studying the spark plugs.
With the engine running water can enter obviously thru other parts of the engine such as intake, head gaskets, cracks and so on. it wont enter thru the exhaust manifolds while running, thats why it is important to try to determine when the water is getting in there if you can.
If you find an unusually clean plug out of 8 you can start to pin-point where the problem may be.
Alot of water indicates a leak in the pressue side of the cooling system such as a crack in the intake or a crack in the block or in the head gasket area.
A small portion of water may indicate exhaust manifolds maybe dripping in while not running.
First determine when the water is entering and use the process of elimination, were all shooting from the hips trying to figure out the problem. the engine has to be dis-assembled to some point as it is, observing closely on dis-assembly and knowing what to look for will isolate the water problem
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2007 at 11:21pm
Ok, I finally got to my engine today.

As suggested, I ran the exhaust manifolds off the engine (but I kept the hoses hooked up to see if water was leaking back into the exhaust ports). No water leaking from the exhaust manifolds.

Also, I did a compression test. About 90-120 psi per cylinder.

I took off the intake manifold and found no cracks anywhere. As Eric suggested, I also checked the thin area around the thermostat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-16-2007 at 11:30pm
so cracked block then right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-17-2007 at 2:40pm
If the block was cracked, would I be getting good compression in each cylinder?

My friend was watching the exhaust ports with the exhaust manifolds off while we ran the engine. He said each port was firing good.

The intake manifold gaskets were really hard and brittle. There was a piece by the water jacket that was messed up, but I don't know if it was from when we took off the intake.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2007 at 1:09pm
Originally posted by leo0648 leo0648 wrote:

If the block was cracked, would I be getting good compression in each cylinder?


yes, the block being cracked will have no effect on compression.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2007 at 2:09pm
Is there anyplace to look for a crack?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bchesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2007 at 3:08pm
If it is cracked let me know. I have a friend with a spare RH PCM motor from a 80's 2001. I also have a spare set of GT40 heads that we can make a deal on. I am in East Texas too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-19-2007 at 9:19pm
Originally posted by Waterdog Waterdog wrote:


   The exhaust valve operates around 1200*F (dull red glow)I've had a couple drag race exhaust valves snap the heads off from tempering due to cool air rushing into the open cylinder at shut down. Yes /no?


I don't see how air is going to cool a valve faster than a valve that is seated onto water-cooled metal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-20-2007 at 10:18pm
Originally posted by leo0648 leo0648 wrote:

If the block was cracked, would I be getting good compression in each cylinder?

My friend was watching the exhaust ports with the exhaust manifolds off while we ran the engine. He said each port was firing good.

The intake manifold gaskets were really hard and brittle. There was a piece by the water jacket that was messed up, but I don't know if it was from when we took off the intake.


Can you take some digital pix of the intake and gasket and post them here? Also look very closely at the valley area of the block in the area where the suspect intake gasket. Look for evidence of a water trail. Another question....how long did you run the engine with the manifolds off? Did you have fresh oil then? Is it now contaminated too?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-20-2007 at 10:55pm
Nutty- I am back in Louisiana for Thanksgiving. Ill try to get some pics up next week. I didn't see a water trail, but there was a lot of sludge in the rear of the engine valley. I ran the engine for about 20-30 seconds with the manifolds off. We changed the oil, but I didn't drain it to see if the new oil was contaminated. I checked the dip stick, but it didn't show any water.

Brad- Im interested in the engine. Where is it located, and how much?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bchesley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 2:30am
I am not sure. Its at my dealer. The guy who owns half the shop has it rat holed. Call Shannon at Ski N Sports. 903-509-1ski
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 1:24pm
Leo, what part of Louisiana ????
My boat is still water ready,I am in central close to Natchez Miss.If close and have the time give us a call......1-318-386-2825..Billy
Always glad and happy to meet a CCFan close up and in person..........boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 7:56pm
Boat Dr,

Slidell LA. We just took out my Dad's boat to find that the raw water pump was spitting water all over the engine. The reason we figured this out is because the alternator stopped charging and our voltage dropped. We just bought a brand new Mando Alternator this summer. Maybe I should switch hobbies, this boating thing isnt working out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 8:13pm
Leo, you in the da boat so don't bail now.Sounds as if he owns a stern drive , hope its black and not brand X. The water should not have hurt the alt. but the slipping belt has possibly glazed and neds to be replaced.
Hope ya fix the problem and get in a little time on the water for the holiday weekend ..........boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote leo0648 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2007 at 8:26pm
Its a malibu, never again will I buy a boat with an indmar engine. We hate indmar from the bottom of our hearts. Just kidding, but I would much rather him sell the malibu and get a super sport!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 1:37am
Guys, I just bought a 1976 Southwind with a 351 with what I assume is an early PCM Ford engine as it says GT 255. Long story short...got it home...warm day yesterday...put the hose on it to run it for awhile...was running good, then shut down....didn't want to restart....acted like engine was seized....I finally worked it free with a large torque wrenc, and got it restarted.

Bottom line...the oil pan is full of oil with water and must be up 8" on the dipstick. A very nice vanilla shake looking frothy mucky mixture.    

I started reading this forum, and one of the key places to look is the exhaust manifold. I pulled the port manifold off. Ran water into the inlet hose. Held it flat or at slight angle as if in boat. Water DOES come out of one of the exhaust ports as well as out the riser portion as it should.

Question: Is water supposed to come out of the exhaust port?? I wouldn't think so.

Question 2: Could I have scored any bearings running it for a short time with water in the oil.

Question 3: What is the best start up procedure to assure I do no more damage?

Any recommendations on new exhaust manifolds? Should I go with the new style pyramidal PCM's?

Sorry for so many questions, but, I am really trying to preserve this old girl and don't want to sink a new motor into it.

Thanks!

Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 1:45am
Dave you are on the right track. Water out the top only, not out those 4 holes on the side.
Diesel and 30 weight at a 50/50 mix, with the plugs out , spin it and drain. Will take a few cycles but will clear it out and not damage any parts....
I have a set of manifolds and risers,take off when I bought the Hi-Teks.They need a new home.........Boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote davidg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 2:04am
Thanks Boat dr. I appreciate the advice. Where are you located? I am interested in those manifolds/risers.

I live in the Chicago area.

Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 2:25am
Dave do a Google on 71354......
Monterey La.You cannot get there from here,but if you go there you can.
Welcome aboard this boat of misfits and boat nuts.Lot of good people here willing to share their knowledge and friendship....
Send me an E-Mail adress and will shoot ya some pics,they are Osco brand, direct replacements for the PCM.Only have a few hours on them , removed for dietary reasons.
The S/S Hi Teks tip the scales at 12 lbs the OEM cast iron about 44 lbs . boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-08-2008 at 7:44am
David, It does sound like your have a bad manifold but to be sure I would remove the riser and make a block off plate to cover the water ports to the riser. This way, you can put water under some pressure into the manifold and see if water is coming through to the exhaust side and not just back from the riser. Do take the Doc's advice and understand it may take a couple of flushes to get the water out.


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