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Making A Mooring

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jeffyl View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-29-2007 at 7:35pm
Hey guys, I'm going to be mooring my boat on the lake this year. I am planning on making it out of concrete. My question is, how heavy does the mooring need to be? My boat is a 16ft CC Mustang, and the lake it is going to be on has minimal traffic and is pretty sheltered. I'm just not sure how much weight it takes to keep the boat were I want it. Anybody ever made there own, or have any ideas as to how heavy and what shape it should be? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hamlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2007 at 9:18pm
Concrete isn't very dense. In water, concrete loses almost one-half its weight while iron is much denser and only looses about 1/8th of it's weight. If you are going to make your anchor out of concrete, make it as heavy as you can handle. I have seen lots of 5 gallon buckets of concrete in our lake get pulled to shore. If I remember correct, a 55 gallon drum of concrete weighs about 800 pounds in air therefore about 400 pounds in water. I wouldn't feel comfortable with less than 200 pounds in water if leaving the boat unattended for any extended period.
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Riley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2007 at 10:12pm
I've been mooring my boats on a big lake for a long time. Spend the money and buy a mushroom anchor, enough chain, and a bouy. Whenever I see people trying to cheap out and not buy a good anchor, at some point their stuff ends up on shore.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2007 at 12:26am
Buy a mastercraft & fill it with concrete. Drive to the desired location, then sink it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2007 at 6:05am
HA Ha ha...Heeee heeee... Best use for a master crap boat I say. Good one Chopper!!
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2007 at 6:18am
I love the Mastercraft idea!

I've made lots of anchors over the years for the ski clubs ski jump. Over the winter, they keep on loosing the lines and we end up with new anchors. There must be over 200 at the bottom of the lake by now!

We use large poly laundry baskets lined with cardboard so the concrete doesn't come out the holes. We then poke # 5 rebar (5/8") through the sides in a cross so it sticks out about 6" on each side. These will dig into the bottom plus they make great handles for moving them and tossing them in the lake. The anchor point is again a piece of rebar bent into a U with 90 degree bends on the bottom to hold in the concrete. If you use rope, make sure you use a shackle to attach it to the anchor so it doesn't get cut though by the rebar.

You are going to end up with a net weight (on land) of about 450lbs.


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Mark Mel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2007 at 11:36am
Sink an old engine block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2007 at 2:18pm
All depends on the configuration and bottom conditions. The x shaped rebar idea is a good one, I usually use 4 foot 1-1/4 inch galv pipe in an X shape in a 5 gal bucket with an anchor point attached. I take 3-4 of those with about 8-9 feet of chain on them spread them on a 10-12 foot diameter circle 120 degrees apart and bring the chains together attach them to another 50-60 (in the water usually a cast iron radiator) lb weight in the middle. The theory is that with waves the center weight rises off the ground and and acts as a shock absorber. It also simulates a proper rhode of chain for each of the anchors. The whole thing sounds elaborate but it will replace two 55 gallon barrels of concrete in terms of holding power and if you dont like the positioning after you put it in you can move it pretty simply.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chopper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2007 at 10:06pm
I was only joking about the MC

I was going to say yse an old engine block too. It would depend on weather condtions at your lake though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rudderdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 12:10am
Believe it or not an engine block will slide on the bottom of the lake. By the way on ebay under boat trailers there is a guy with an inboard trailer that he says he pulled the SUPRA off of it at the dump because the stringers were rotten.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 8:11am
Originally posted by rudderdad rudderdad wrote:

Believe it or not an engine block will slide on the bottom of the lake. By the way on ebay under boat trailers there is a guy with an inboard trailer that he says he pulled the SUPRA off of it at the dump because the stringers were rotten.


All these jury riggs will drag if you're on a big lake, and it gets windy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 8:21am
Riley, Our ski jump hasn't moved in the 38 years that I know this method has been used. It is a 1000 acre lake and gets quite windy. I have used it for mooring boats as well.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 8:52am


I have used and sold my "Jury Rig" system on 12 x 12 foot square summer camp swim rafts, and up to 26 foot sailboats on a 7000 acre lake for over a decade without any significant movement. However, it is true you can drag just about anything on the right bottom surface especially if you use a relatively short chain and the object is smooth and rounded. Most engine blocks by themselves these days are not so heavy, the bare 351 block I just got in the mail is light enough for me to carry by myself for short distances and wouldn't hold a nautique in a stiff breeze unless it was a muck type bottow where the block could sink in.   

I spend a fair amount of scuba time untangling the chain of some of the commercial moorings at the local yacht club have some sort of extended attachment (looks like an upside heavy wieght coat hanger) apparatus coming out of the weight, over time the boats will wrap the chain around whatever the offending object is in relatively calm shifty winds until the chain is so short it doesnt make it to the surface anymore. They get together every couple springs and pay me to go out and untangle them.

Whatever you do if you get into big weight be careful and dont put it in your nautique.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 8:58am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Riley, Our ski jump hasn't moved in the 38 years that I know this method has been used. It is a 1000 acre lake and gets quite windy. I have used it for mooring boats as well.


Apparently in your case it works. I'm on a lake that's 6 miles across. When the wind gets up to 30kts or more, the waves are 3-5 feet. The people with those concrete rigs are the ones whose boats end up on the beach or slam into other people's boats. My Skier is on a 75 lb mushroom with 2:1 scope, and it doesn't budge. My other ski boat is on a 100lb mushroom.

At .79/lb for a mushroom, it seems like the way to go for me.

BTW, if the winds are going to be 30 kts or more, I try to take the boat out, but sometimes I get caught.

Joe, I'm not trying to insult you with "jury rig". I've seen all kinds up here, even 3 train wheels changed together. It just seems prety elaborate compared to spending $50-$100 for a decent anchor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 8:59am
I think it was Mark that first mentioned the engine block. Maybe he has a 1978 351 that he can give to Jeff to try out!!! Of coarse I still think the Mastercraft with concrete in is a better idea.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 9:38am
Around these parts the local sailboat shop drops 1500 lb blocks for sailboats to 23ft and 3000 lb blocks for sailboats to 34 ft. If you can get away with a 100 lb mushroom with a 2:1 I agree thats the way to go. With Swim rafts in lined swim sections a 2:1 rhode is not a possibility you cant really let them move more than a few feet or the health department gives you problems out your depth markings and people diving into shallow water yadda yadda, and yacht clubs wont let you run a lot of chain so they can safely put more boats in a smaller area. With a short chain during one of our microburst level thunderstorms a raft or a boat will pick up and drag a 100lb mushroom like a fishing sinker. Moral of the story if you have the room to let it wander a proper length of chain is invaluable, as is getting the boat out of the water when severe weather is coming.

-Joe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeffyl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2007 at 9:02pm
Thanks Guys, thats exactly what I was looking for. The lake I'm on is quite small and there is minimal traffic. I think I'll look into what the local marina's have to offer, and then depending on price figure out what I will do. No big rush now though, since I just started digging out the foam due to it being very saturated. Thanks Again Guys!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clew In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-02-2007 at 11:13pm
Hey,

I got a screw in galvanized eye bolt to anchor a telephone pole to the ground. The fellow at the power company gave it to me. It was 8 feet long so I cut 4 feet out of it and welded it back together. I screwed it in the ground and attached a chain and float. It is secure and I do not think anything will ever pull it up.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2007 at 4:43am
Clew in, Are you a scuba diver? I'm just wondering how you got the screw in anchor in the lake bottom. Was it in shallow water?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clew In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2007 at 7:24am
Hey,

Yes, Lake Waccamaw in NC. It has a sandy bottom with rock underneath.

It is just an idea and if I had my choice of diving or lifting concrete I would much rather dive.

Idea, once the eye bolt is started you can uses a metal pole to turn the bolt. If you have a metal pole strong enough.

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