Gt40, help locating a broken wires location |
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NHdigger ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: May-23-2025 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: May-27-2025 at 9:54am |
I have a 97 GT40 that I just bought, have yet to have it out on the water. The temp gauge and oil pressure gauge are both wonky so I removed the wires and grounded them out and got a full sweep on the gauge so I replaced both the water temp switch and oil pressure switch (both correlated to the gauges when the wires were removed so believe I replaced the correct ones). No change with the new sensors and the gauge reads the same.
Someone has done some previous rewiring on the starter relay and I noticed this broken tanish wire and I am trying to figure out where it's supposed to go? I think it might be part of the SLOW system limp mode and maybe why the gauges are off? Hoping someone can trace this wiring on their boat and let me know where it's supposed to go. I have spent a while looking for wiring harness that show it but not a ton of luck. I appreciate the help. Edit, guess my pictures are not showing. Let me figure that out |
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NHdigger ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: May-23-2025 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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![]() ![]() ![]() I am just challenged,I do have a third temp sensor that has two wires going to. However when I disconnect that the gauge still reads bad. Does this feed info to the PCM which also feeds the gauge? |
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KENO ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 11442 |
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If you read the thread in the link below, it'll probably make you feel "less challenged" about water temperature senders/sensors. There are 3 total
Then if you click on the link below and go to page 6- 5, you'll find info on the SLOW system wiring and find a tan wire with black tracer going to the coolant temp switch, the oil pressure switch and an unused one. I figure there's a good chance that's the wire you're looking at. The gt40 I can look at is a v drive and the harness is different due to some things being located differently, so not much help with a picture.
Limp mode related switches should have nothing to do with your gauges being off unless somebody before you really screwed up some wiring ![]() You can read about limp mode in the manual in the link above. Somebody with that vintage of SN should be able to look/take a picture or 2 for you
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NHdigger ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: May-23-2025 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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You are a wealth of knowledge, thank you. Just read through those and I think it does make a bit more sense. I need to pull this up while I go look at the boat. With limp mode also typically have a check engine light illuminated? I'll test for continuity between the broken section and the the other ends at the sensor. |
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KENO ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 11442 |
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In limp mode the Red dash light will be on and the engine will run normally till about 2700 rpm, then start cutting out.
Reduce speed a couple hundred rpm and it'll run normally again till you go back to 2700 ish You can cruise all day long at say 2400 rpm in linp mode and the engine runs normally. If that broken wire is the unused limp mode wire , tape it so it can't touch ground, if it's grounded you'll go into limp mode. Here's a video with the sights and sounds of limp mode in the link. Watch the tach and have the sound turned up ![]() |
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NHdigger ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: May-23-2025 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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I will have to go mess around with that wire and grounding it out to see if thats infact what it is intended for.
Great link on the engine going into limp mode. I still have not had a chance to get mine on the water but hopefully this weekend I can give it a shot. Thank you for the help.
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KENO ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 11442 |
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Before you jump right in and ground the wire, a safer approach would be to use a multimeter and check for/verify continuity between that wire and the wires at your switches for hi water temp or low oil pressure.
They should have the same tan/black wires That way you have less chance of damaging something if the wire is for something else See how it runs with the wire as it is now, with the bare end taped before doing anything that might cause damage. In other words don't do anything silly that might damage your ECM with a voltage transient. That can get expensive |
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NHdigger ![]() Newbie ![]() Joined: May-23-2025 Location: NH Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Well, I have taken the boat out twice now for a combined run time of about 3hrs. Everything does seem to be working well with no obvious issues besides the gauge debacle. I did end up jumping the temp sensor to ground to put it into limp mode and can confirm that side of the system works.
I think I have narrowed down my faulty gauge issue to a potentially poorly wired radio off that same circuit which does not work. Need to pull the radio stuff out and see if that solves my issue. Happy with the boat so far. Now to start cleaning up the paint on it and getting it to look nice again.
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