Acceleration issues.

Ford, Holley, PCM, Correct Craft didn't see any need for an angled spacer when his boat was built and there's still no need for it 

I hooked it up to the hose and fired it up. It definitely sounded different. It sounded like it was loping/stumbling a bit. So something changed with the new gaskets. I hooked up the vacuum gauge to the PCV line to the back of the carb and what used to be in the steady-ish 15 range was now bouncing around down to 11. 

Since the last person to mess with the air/fuel mixture screws was the one who provided the "jumped a tooth theory" I decided to return them both to 1 and 1/2 turns out. I apologize in advance KENO. I know this in not something a novice should be attempting. However, in keeping the vacuum gauge attached and working back and forth equally I was able to get a steady 15 and almost 16 on the gauge. This is with both turned out 3/4 of a turn. The best it has ever been. It idles much better and throttle response is great.

I also re-checked timing and it is still steady at 10 BTDC.

So here is my question. Is 3/4 of a turn out on both too lean to run or am I ok if that is where it idles best in neutral? I just want to make sure I am am still within the range of not causing anymore damage anywhere. 

Thanks

Agree, as it looks as though the PCV nipple is below the wedge, and on a spacer as was usual on Commanders of the day.

FYI:  when my wife first drove the 95 Nautique we have now we were buzzing down the lake fully loaded with camping gear.   I asked her if she was in a hurry, she looked at me like I was asking a stupid question.   I said you are spinning 4,200 RPM, she was shocked and backed it down a little.  Water was smooth, boat ran smooth, she was hauling at high RPM and had no idea.  Gave me a good laugh.

Now to my homework. I will attach a close up photo of what is on there now. I replaced both the gasket on top of the wedge plate and the one under the wedge plate. I can't recall if I got the PCM gaskets or used what came with the new QF carb. I know we discussed it but I just can't recall. I do know that the gasket between the carb and the ge plate is a thick gasket. The one under the wedge plate is not as thick for sure. Under the wedge gasket may be another riser but I can't quite tell. It looks like it has more of a casting mark around it then it actually separates. I never removed it and if I recall correctly it was threaded where I mounted my new studs for the new QF. Maybe the photo will help. I know I spent a significant amount of time with carb cleaner and even some propane looking for a vacuum leak in those areas with no luck, but it doesn't mean I didn't miss one.  Thanks again for the help and let me know what you think. The photo may come out sideways...we will see...but it should give you a better look. 

Just as a quick re-cap since it has been awhile. Last time at the lake we heard a pop/clank under load and it died. Found the distributor gear had sheared off. Got that repaired and went a down the "timing chain jumped a tooth" trail briefly from the last mechanic before you all quickly and correctly stopped me from chasing that rabbit. Sent the distributor back to DUI for a full check up. They replaced a few items and tested it and said it was good to go. Got it re-installed and was finally having success again on the trailer. I had been running it about monthly on the trailer just to make sure all was good and no real issues. Of course the day before heading to the lake it decides not to start. A quick check and no fuel from the accelerator pump nozzle (I think that's what its called), gave it a quick clean and it was working fine again. The cold start is tough for this boat so far. It stumbles through with throttle until warmed up then idles fine with great throttle response.

So...at the lake yesterday, cold start was a bit rough but stumbled through for a few minutes then smoothed right out. Idled great. Smooth into gear and out past the no wake zone. Throttled up smooth and got up to about 2700 rpm and like before it would hold about 2700 rpm. As before, when I tried to give it more throttle beyond that it doesn't speed up and it doesn't slow down. It doesn't really spit or sputter and it doesn't lose RPMs. For me this was a great success knowing how many issues we have tackled with this boat and I successfully made it back to the dock in a respectable manner under my own power this time. 

One item to update. Consistently at the cold start, there is a whining/sucking sound that lasts 15-20 seconds at the rear of the engine right where the in-line strainer is located. I always assumed (I know that's not a good thing to do) it was the strainer and or inlet water line connection air leak while priming. Then it goes away and no issues on re-starts. I know I checked for vacuum leaks all around the manifold at the rear of the engine so I need to confirm and fix this issue. Would a manifold leak act or sound this same way?

I plan to adjust the choke settings and see if I can achieve a better cold start. 

I am open to any suggestions on tackling this last hurdle of getting it over 2700 rpms and experiencing this boats full potential.

Thanks again for all the help. 

I haven't had it back out on the water yet. You are spot on about the warmer weather, not that it really gets that cold out my way. I will absolutely report how it runs when I do and hopefully with some good news. 

Great news!

I think you may now realize that where the rotor points is not necessarily an indication of correct timing.

Use the marks on the dampener-that's what they're there for.

Christmas came a little early...

Clockwise on your engine advances the timing.  By the way, if you rotate the distributor 5 degrees, the crankshaft timing changes by 10 degrees Always a factor of 2 on the adjustment.

It has been a bit but I have a quick update. Not what I was hoping for but here is the latest.

I sent the distributor back to the manufacturer and they inspected it. They replaced the rotor that I had replaced with a stock rotor and a new cap and tested it with no issues. I advised that we thought the ignition module may have been going bad based on my prior post. They replaced the ignition module and wiring harness as well. They advised they gave it a lengthy test with no issues and sent it back. The people at DUI were great to deal with in my opinion.

I got it put back in and no start. Uhhhhhhh. I had marked all the wires and took photos of everything in removing it and put everything back exactly the same (so I think). The timing could be off a few degrees of but it can't be by much. Engine was at TDC with rotor pointing to #1. Triple checked firing order from #1. The distributor is fully seated. BAT and TACH connections are good. Pumped the throttle a few times and it is getting fuel. It would only stumble a few times (like a cough) but not really like it was really firing if that makes any sense. I decided give the starter and myself a break for a bit. I'm now confident the distributor is good so it is likely the mechanic (me) at this point. I will go back through the basics again this weekend and let you know what I do or don't find. A bit frustrating but I'm not giving up now.

Thanks again for all the help. I know I have mentioned the "look" from the GF a few times so this is what I'm talking about. No doubt there is another one of these looks right around the corner when I tell her I am back to it not starting...

Thinking the problem was now fixed, I started the boat and.......NOPE. It is now back to the it starts, idles poorly and dies off idle. Uhhhhhh.....

Since these connections are the only thing I have touched since in ran amazing last night, the gremlin must be in this area somewhere. I double checked all the connections again and no luck. I'll spend some more time on it later and keep you all posted. Thanks again.