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The Reawakening.. of a 65 Mustang SS

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    Posted: May-18-2022 at 9:40pm

Greetings all, to my new CCF friends! 


In case you prefer brevity, the TL;DR:  Is this a Mustang or Barracuda or what?? 


What would a first post be without pics! See below.


I recently acquired my first fiberglass inboard project, a darling “needs work” 16ft skier what all appears to be a 1965 Mustang (per the title paperwork and previous owner's testimony). Hoping some members can confirm as this was re-powered and modified and I’m having trouble matching it up with pics online. I might have to change my forum handle..


There is no HIN plate although this may not be abnormal for the era I’m told. There is a stringer plate that reads MSS2092. Hence, Mustang. It has a very unique center console with glovebox and throttle controls that I cannot confirm or deny was a Mustang feature based solely on my internet searching. During the modifications this was bypassed for a regular drivers throttle control Thumbs Down. I’m told originally there may have actually been a floor pedal throttle? Oooh! Please oh wise CCfans advise me.


From what I can gather it now has a Ford 302, the casting stamp behind the starter reads EOAE D3C which comes back as a 1980 small block. Previous owner had the Borg Warner velvet drive professionally rebuilt and the prop was tuned or balanced(?) by a local shop.


I’ve been a boat guy for a long time but I’ve always had newer I/Os for family fun. This one is definitely a toy just for me. I’m up for the sweat equity it will require, just a little green in this arena is all. Luckily the youtube has certified me a marine mechanic and the google has brought me finally to my people!!! 


I’m not in the position to be a restoration purist by any means, but I would like my restoration to be as period correct as I can get. The plan is to remain simple and respectful, with a modern take. For example, electronic ignition upgrade is definitely in the cards. I’ll probably put a radio in, albeit hidden away from plain view.


From what I’ve explored thus far my engine mounts and stringers are solid but it absolutely needs flooring and likely new foam while I’m at it. I also foresee a fair amount of gel coat repair in my future. PO left her out and had a cover that only went over the interior so stern and aft decking is showing its age. 


It has an replacement windshield (SN? type) Cry. Anyone with a line on an original or even period correct aftermarket windshield FS please please PM asap!! I'm willing to even buy another resto' boat in the NE corridor just to take the windshield off and have spare parts at this point! Geek


Before beginning the saga that will be my restoration I’ve already put a bit into making this lovely just run. Had sat for a few years so we started with fuel tank drain, new in-line fuel filter, fresh conventional oil and a Wix filter, new condenser, new points, new plugs. I’m typically not a throw money at it until it works kinda guy, but these basics were overdue and now I can rest easy. And, I did diagnose with my meter and test light all along the way so there. 


At first she didn’t want to do much. Had to sort out a rat’s nest of wires behind the dash where the ignition was disconnected for who only knows why. Starter was seized but took that off and after a bit persuasion with a mallet it spun free. The Holley 4BB got a refresh kit and at last I heard that most magical sound. Old starter has since lost its luster so I procured an Arco replacement. Everyone should do this! Spins up on a twitch of the wrist now.


We’re dry-docked on the trailer so I’m using that hose and bucket trick which works a treat, raw/fresh water pump was first inspected and it looks nearly new. At this point most of my engine questions are answered for the time being, carb needs final tuning as a good idle RPM remains illusive. We’ll wait and see how she reacts when she gets wet I suppose.


Here’s my question:


Fresh marine starting battery works perfectly for several starts but then it seems to lose its mojo. Digital multimeter concurs. I tested leaving it connected overnight and no discernible parasitic drain. I do get a rather odd behavior during the first key click (ACC?) where the hour meter makes a horribly loud clicking noise. Can this be repaired or replaced? Thankfully for your ears the forum doesn't allow audio file upload, but go ahead and imagine the loudest most annoying rapid mechanical clicking you can, ever time you turn the key LOL. It goes away once I click over to IGN, but quite odd and unsettling nonetheless. Electrical will be totally gutted and refit when the floor comes out anyhow, but still. I don't suppose anyone has a wiring diagram from this era?


Moving onto the interior now as the weather finally warms. Then the questions will really start to fly just you wait. I’d love to pull the power-plant and disassemble for a pretty paint job but that’s another story/post altogether. Suppose I should see if she even floats first eh?.. :)


-Cory, aka 65stang until proven otherwise.











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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2022 at 9:58pm
Console with single function levers tells me barricuda ss, however it wouldn't be the first boat to be changed.
Dog box looks like a mustang, windshield is newer, looks like the 1980 windshield i bought from a member.

Could very well be a mustang that was resto modded with parts/upgrades the previuos owner liked and wanted.

Above opinions are based off scouring the iternet and correctcraftfan reference section until most of the brochures were lost.
The real pros will chime in and pick out the subtle details.

You got yourself a nice boat welcome aboard and please continue to post pictures as you continue to identify and work on her.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 6:32am



Welcome. Your going to have to change your screen name- it's a 68 Mustang Super Sport on an original Correct Craft trailer. Other than the 70's era Tique? windshield. Steering wheel, pylon and dash gauges have been changed as well and stereo added. Other than that pretty original. Serial number plate is what they were. Looks like a single lever control has been added to the gunnel as well, probably why the consol levers are in foward and full throttle positions. I'll get some pictures up later.....


This is my 69-



Here you can see the 69 updated seats and gauge layout-







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 6:43am
Here is the Mustang reference (top 2 pictures) in the now missing reference section of 1968


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 7:09am
What Gary said (Mustang SS)… but that windshield is early 80’s tique/mustang stuff. Platform is not original either, obviously. Without a rope clearance bar at the rear, it probably didn’t come with a pylon originally (and why a 70’s version was added sometime after the fact). Seats and frames are from a 70’s era cc, probably replaced when the original wood bases/frames rotted.

Judging by my hull number records, I’d guess it’s a ‘67- which makes sense with the later deck and that scoop style.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 7:33am
Go with what Tim says- there are so few Mustangs with the SS option made that factory info is limited. Now Barracuda SS's were way more popular- my guess having more interior room.
You could write the factory Customer Service and see if they still will pull the factory records that will give you born on date, what engine and accessories were factory done etc. At the time anything was possible at Correct Craft but I doubt it would have had a foot throttle. Blocks do get changed out usually from freeze damage, mine like yours has a later block as well. Luckily externally they look the same. Gauges can be repaired but can be costly and lengthily 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 5:56pm
This is such fantastic info thanks all! Man I wish that brochure was higher resolution so I could zoom in. Interesting that my title states 1965, the PO was so excited about this boat being the "first year CC made a fiberglass hull" as he said. Guess he was slightly misinformed, oh well.. I just fell in love with the styling so I don't necessarily care what its pedigree is. I'll definitely reach out to CC and see if they have a birth record though, brilliant idea. 

I must say being a '67-'68 actually made my day, I've just secured a salvage '68 with what appears to be an original windshield intact and I get a spare 302 out of the deal. What does one do with a vintage fiberglass hull that has a big hole in it? Meh another project for another day I suppose. Oddly this windshield looks more like the wrapped single pane from the brochure pictures, it's definitely not split like Gary S's. Perhaps that was a Super Sport feature? Close enough will have to do for now. I'll add pics upon procurement.

Noteably, I stumbled on a post that seemed to indicate pre '67 Mustangs may not have had the front air scoop and this one certainly does not appear to have been patched over so now I'm back in limbo. Guess we'll go pour a drink and ponder. Beer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 7:49pm
 Keep us posted on your progress, it will be a fun project for you. The big difference is that the split windshield is glass, the 1 piece is plastic. It does seem that the SS's were more deluxe most have the glass windshield, dashboard glove box, chrome bezel on helm, turnpike or chrome steering wheel depending on the year. Of course since it was Correct Craft anything went- if you wanted it they would build it. If you notice mine has a upholstered wood motor box and what you can't see is the back seat is framed up in wood. A member parted out an SS 20 boats newer than mine with a glass box and rear seat assembly. Why? no one knows.... Here's mine when it showed up, they clean up well. And by the way the PO is a little off 65 was not the first year Correct Craft used fiberglass


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-19-2022 at 7:55pm
Originally posted by 65stang 65stang wrote:



From what I can gather it now has a Ford 302, the casting stamp behind the starter reads EOAE D3C which comes back as a 1980 small block. Previous owner had the Borg Warner velvet drive professionally rebuilt and the prop was tuned or balanced(?) by a local shop.















That casting number really tells you that the block was first cast for the 1980 model year and it was used through 1984. Then the next casting was E5AE for the 85 model year.

If you want to know the actual date it was cast you have to look for another number near that number.

It might say for example 2A13. That would be a block cast on Jan 13th 1982

Also that hose in the picture above from the circulating pump to the intake manifold shouldn't be there. There should be a plug in the manifold and another in the circulating pump. On a car engine those places were the supply and return from the heater and that hose setup you have is just recycling some hot water from the engine back to the engine instead of out the exhaust manifolds.

Makes me think it's a junkyard engine with the marine bolt on stuff, but maybe not the water pump and intake and who knows what else.

Does it rotate the same direction as your IO or a car engine or backwards from the IO/car engine?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2022 at 5:20pm
Gary S thanks for the flashback photo, I guess there's hope for me after all!

KENO thanks for the info! I've yet to locate any other number near that casting number for a born-on-date. The engine is RH rotation, the harmonic balancer spins clockwise as you face the engine from the stern. 

Interesting about the errant hose, where might one procure the proper plugs? Is it as simple as a brass plug from the hardware store, throw some thread lock on it? Clown

I'd like to take care of this (the right way) before water test hopefully next weekend. 

Still trying to sort out this carburetor after rebuilding, pretty positive the idle needs to be below the 1K rpm it sits at right now. Curb idle screw isn't even engaged on the throttle arm so I'm not sure..

Then moving on to foam removal, what is the consensus on best way to achieve that fun little task? Sawzall and a shovel?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2022 at 8:56pm
I'd remove the fittings that are there now and find matching plugs, preferably brass

The one on the manifold will be a pipe thread. The one on the pump may be pressed in, if that's the case, remove the hose and cap the fitting or cut the hose an inch or so from the fitting and plug the hose

The actual cast date was in different places over the years but I think your vintage 302 might have it on the rear webbing of the block near the numbers you already found. See the circled area in the picture below.

You'd definitely need the starter out to see it. It might be a metal tag riveted in place.

This is all a guaranteed "MAYBE" on the location.  Wink



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2022 at 10:25pm
Originally posted by 65stang 65stang wrote:

needs to be below the 1K rpm it sits at right now. Curb idle screw isn't even engaged on the throttle arm so I'm not sure..

Then moving on to foam removal, what is the consensus on best way to achieve that fun little task? Sawzall and a shovel?

Make sure the throttle cable is disconnected from the carb-it may be completely out of adjustment anyway, this will eliminate another variable for now. 
30+ years ago I didn't have a Sawzall so I used a jig saw, probably not as dangerous, don't want to be cutting through the bottom of the boat or the bracing. You could see where the bracing was so I drilled a hole to start the saw  and away I went. Used a garden trowel to remove the foam
Here is what mine looked like after foam removal




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-20-2022 at 11:33pm
OMG KENO!! You are so right, it was right there I just missed it. Plain as day on a riveted tag 2A11.


Gary S thanks yet again for the inspiration. Just what I needed, a "skeleton key" to what's hiding below the foam.. So far I couldn't see the cross members so I wasn't sure how to begin. Now I have a map! Big smile 

Good call on removing the throttle cable for testing, will check this out tomorrow and report back. This old Holley definitely needs some, ahem, adjustment.

Weather man says scorcher tomorrow. I might just have to run up to the lake and get this puppy wet. Now where did I put that drain plug?! Shocked


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-21-2022 at 8:39am
2A11 in conjunction with your other numbers means it turned from a molten hunk of metal into an engine block on Jan 11th 1982   Wink

since the block was used from 80 to 84, the 2 is for 1982,                  A is for January and             11 is the day of the month
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2022 at 5:06pm
Well she floats well enough! Sorry I only got one fuzzy picture.

With throttle cable removed I located a reasonably good idle, adjusted and reattached. Had to fix the carb transfer tube that sprung a leak at both bushings, ugh. I have the old ones that look in better shape than these new ones from the rebuilt kit so add it to the list. Secondary bowl was overflowing so quick needle reset, all seems right in the world. Kicks over and quick test: Reverse works, forward works, trans is smooth.. We look super cool, neighbors give a wave and big thumbs up. Throttle up in neutral and just might have scarred the neighbors for life, so far mission accomplished Thumbs Up 

I get one good take off and just as we got to plane, full stall out. We got nothing. I see now that the neutral kill switch will need some alignment, have to fwd>rev>neutral for starter to click over subsequently (or go to the back and reset the kill switch armature by hand).

Start her up again, even a glance of throttle and immediate stall. Well, show's over folks *sigh*. New starter is amazing btw I repeat my sentiment that permanent magnet is the way to go. Each start and the engine wants to go but instead we stall out. Anyhow, this repeats until the battery gets tired & I get too much sun, jump in to cool off and tug my little rowboat back to the dock..

Seems that once the engine had warmed up even the inclination of throttle would cause an immediate stall, I couldn't even reliably get back to the putt-putt that it was doing no problem before my one good launch. Tried letting the engine cool down but the sky turned ominous so back home we go. This has to be carb related, yes? Help! 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2022 at 6:44pm
Time to check your fuel supply.  Make sure the fuel pump is actually performing before tearing the carb apart.   You can feed the engine with an alternate gas supply while directing the fuel pump into a gas can or bucket.  Start and watch how much flow you have.   An unrestricted fuel pump should pump 1/4 gallon of gas quickly and you should see a steady stream of fuel being pumped.  You could also attach a pressure gauge and see how much fuel pressure it is giving you.   4-6 PSI is normal.   If your engine keeps running strong on the alternate fuel supply that tells you the carb is working fine at least at idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2022 at 6:40pm
MrMcD, thanks for the setting me on the right track! 

It's a mechanical fuel pump and I appear to get good flow disconnected from the carb going into a container. I am all for doing a pressure test to be sure but will have to pick up a measuring device. In the meantime I discovered the fuel tank must still have some ethanol Jell-O cuz that's what I see in my bucket. I had even replaced the inline filter with a clear one for monitoring purpose, well it's not so clear anymore.. Amazing that the gas appears bad even after pumping the tank out and refilling just 5gal with high-test and some enzyme. 

Well I needed an excuse to pull the tank and replace the busted sender so I guess my wish is granted. Is there a way to completely clean a fuel tank without sending it out somewhere?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2022 at 8:17pm
Being a metal tank if it's the original you may have some rust mixed in with that Jello Wink

Since you'll be pulling it you can use soapy water, sloshing it around and dumping it out, lots of it over and over again ,and rinsing with clean water or use a pressure washer to blast some water around in there.

Some people put nuts. bolts etc in the tank to help while sloshing, but then you have to get them out later

Then dry it out good and see what the inside looks like

A little good old fashioned gas line antifreeze will help absorb water while emptying and drying

After all that maybe it'll be clean Wink 

I'm sure there are other ways to do it yourself but this works for me.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2022 at 9:18pm
Bagged and tagged all the chrome today in prep for a long weekend of wet sanding.. She looks funny LOL

Gas tank appears to be metal so yea I'm guessing rusty. I was thinking a length of chain and a quick tumble with some dilute muriatic since I have it on hand. Overkill?

I dunno that with all the chips and cracks this can just be buffed out? Oh, what does one use to fill in tiny grommet holes that I no longer want or need. And do you remove the rub rail to do this job properly? I want to replace the rope in the end anyhow.. Wacko






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2022 at 8:10pm
OK after some light CCF reading with regards to gelcoat restoration.. I have a quandary. Was this boat previously a different color? The vast majority the hull, gunnels, console, doghouse etc will benefit greatly from the tried and true methods discussed in numerous posts here. The orange peel situation is real. But.. The bow and stern are gonna need special attention. I'm unsure how to proceed so I guess we'll work on the gas tank issue and the foam removal for now. That oughta keep me busy enough for awhile. Disapprove





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2022 at 8:30pm
Is the boat purple/plum gelcoat or has it been painted ?   This last picture you posted looks like paint.
Can anyone post factory color options for that year since the brochure is missing.

Is that orange (tangerine) and white gelcoat showing thru the peeling paint ? Could the deck have been 2 tone or striped ?
Since it's a rare model some serious research may be in order. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2022 at 9:51pm
69 Mustang HM SS
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2022 at 10:02pm
Try writing the factory and see if they will look up the build sheet. This is what mine looks like and includes the colors


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2022 at 6:43pm
Well good new bad news today. 

Bad news first you say?

Upon review, PO was sadly mistaken about the state of the stringers. Looks like my restore just turned into a rebuild.. 

The good news? Scratch that, good news is I got my Mustang badges for my troubles. Windshield was cracked Cry 

Ah, tomorrow I pickup my donor Mustang! See here. What is this monster?! I know I know not the real windshield I need but it will have to do OK. Ignore the CL $ ask, thus far negotiated price seems right for the windshield and the dashboard Mustang badge alone so I'm excited. Hull may be ugly as sin with that repaint but hoping I got me a freshy 302 for just in case and maybe a gas tank without rust fingers crossed. Parts will be available to the community of course. Would you pull the trigger?



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Moving over to Maintenance section for status updates I guess.. Will add to this thread if/when I receive word from the factory. 

I think someone painted this boat this color, it certainly chips off like paint. Maybe we grind her back to fiberglass and gelcoat the whole thing?? I am a bit partial to the plum though... To be continued.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2022 at 6:26am
Originally posted by 65stang 65stang wrote:

Moving over to Maintenance section for status updates I guess.. Will add to this thread if/when I receive word from the factory. 



Why not just keep things in this thread instead of moving something to the maintenance section?

Gary S got his info from the factory a long time ago, you have about as good a chance of getting something from the present day outfit as you do of winning the lottery and getting mauled by a polar bear on the same day.Wink

Here's a link to a thread with plenty of info all in one thread. I'm not sure but it maybe should be named "Not another unfinished Mustang restoration thread" or "The world's longest Mustang restoration thread"

Plenty of info in that thread that'll come in handy for you.


PS................Courtesy of Google Pics, here's a link to an ad for your boat with a couple mistakes in the ad that you've since stumbled in to.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-05-2022 at 9:00am
The thread title can be edited by you and moved by me if you like…
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2022 at 6:03pm
Hollywood thanks, I guess I'll hold out for now

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

... winning the lottery and getting mauled by a polar bear on the same day.Wink
 
Now that would be quite the day!!

Any how, can someone maybe Gary S post some windshield measurements? The boat gods may be smiling on me.. I found some NOS on our friends website. IDK is Fiberglassics a bad word around here? LOLLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2022 at 7:20pm
Hollywood, how does one change a topic title? I feel dumb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2022 at 7:24pm
Forgot to post the pic of my recovered badges. 

Badgers? We don't need no stinking badgers Cool


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