96 GT40 - no spark

Ran the boat all summer no issues, and went through a period of 3-4 week with no use.  After the hiatus, I dropped in the water and nothing but ignition clicks (engine would not turn).  The marina had a mobile jumper pack, hooked up to the battery and boat fired right up.  Drove the boat for 30-40 minutes, beached on sandbar, shut engine off, and engine would start crank/turn (just ignition clicks).  Got another jump from fellow boater, fired right up.  Headed back to Marina, last boating adventure for the season.

Boat sat for a week in the driveway and started to troubleshoot the issue.  First move was to charge the battery up.  Now the boat cranks, but won't fire (no spark).  Here is what I did so far:

 1. Charged battery, cleaned and tightened terminals

 2. Tested fuse connected to the battery (0 ohms) - I saw there is now workaround for that, but I do get power up to the dashboard, when I hit when i depress ignition button - gauges, radio all power up.

3. replaced both relays, near the back of the engine 

4. Validated no spark

5. Dead man switch is still suspect, but when I push it in (with key in on position) - I can hear a click at the back of the boat. 

6. When I turn the key on, I don't hear the fuel pumps buzz either.  

So to conclude, engine turns/cranks consistently, but no spark.  Any ideas?

I saw in the manual the 12.5 breaker should be able to be reset, but that button is rock solid and doesn't move.  Could that be a potential culprit?

Thanks!  

Joe

Here is the latest:

1. Tested battery at AutoZone and passed there diagnosis

2. Bypassed kill switch completely and rewired the connection directly together

3. Replaced both relays in the back of boat

4. confirmed still no spark - after removing a plug (grounding) and visually inspecting while turning the engine.

5. Do not hear the fuel pumps buzz/whine when key moves into on position

5. Engine still cranks, when attempting to start

I'll take any advice out there.

Thanks!

Joe

If those breaker voltages of zero are on the output side and you have 11.2 on the input side, it seems like for whatever reason you have 2 tripped breakers that need to be reset.

You mentioned trying the 12.5 in your first post

If you push the Red button in you should feel a click and the breaker will stay on.

Then check your output voltages again.

if you have good voltage, try and start the engine.

If you don't, maybe the breakers are bad, but that seems a little too coincidental to have 2 bad breakers at the same time, so let's hope they reset and you can start the engine 

We'll just say "good luck Joe"  

What Gary said 

If you have 0 volts going in, you'll have 0 volts coming out

That seems to be your case Joe, which means you have a supply issue somewhere before those breakers.

When one of these breakers trips, you really can't tell by looking at the Red button if it's tripped or not.  It doesn't pop out any appreciable amount, but after the breaker cools off, when you press it, you'll feel a click when it resets.

If it's not tripped, you'll feel nothing change and no real movement of the button or anything else.

I'd use a multimeter on it's lowest scale (like the 20 scale for example) and if the breaker is shut you'll have a reading near 0, if it's open you'll have an infinite reading.

If you really have 0 into both breakers, that's a head scratcher at least for now.