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1975 Ski Nautique Restoration Questions

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75SkiNautique View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-13-2021 at 2:39pm
Hello All, I've recently started work on my '75 Ski Nautique and have a few questions. First off I am a novice and apologize for posting a new topic instead of researching previous threads, many older threads are missing pictures. I'll get right into it: 

- Is it true I can run the boat out of the water by screwing my garden hose directly to the raw water pickup? Also just to confirm the raw water pickup is the grated intake located by the port stringer? 

- Do I need to have water circulating through the motor in order to preform a compression check? ( worried about the impeller, although it will be changed soon) 

- Im on the fence about replacing the stringers. Most motor mount lag bolts do not torque down, they just spin in place. I have removed and inspected all the holes and found mostly mush around the threads. I have removed a previously botched repair and am able to see the condition of the stingers rear of the motor, looks to be wet but solid douglas fir. I know they tend to rot from the bottom up so I drilled down and found dry wood. Several other cores taken from the stringers also showed mostly dry wood. Would you consider a partial stringer replacement, just around the motor mounts and any other problem areas? Or is the full replacement the way to go? My concerns are mostly cost related ( I am 24 years old). Secondary stringers and floors will be replaced for sure. 

- I have heard that the new floors actually need about 1/4 inch clearance around the sides of the hull before being glassed in? I am using 3/4 exterior ply. 

- What kind of paint should I use to restore the decals on the hull? 

- Is relocating the battery to the rear seat area advisable? Not sure if the heat from the exhaust tubes are a factor. This boat will be getting a new interior with new wood, rear seating will be fabricated. 

Thank you for your insight. Hope to bring this boat back, previous owners did some questionable stuff to her. Any tips are appreciated. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2021 at 9:16pm
You ask a bunch of questions and it looks like you got lost in the shuffle, but here's some info and maybe even a few answers Wink

One obviously noticeable thing is that you seem to have a real genuine north of the border Canadian boat with a dealer installed Mercruiser engine. Here's a link to that Canadian info from an old thread. Art who talks about it is a retired CC  factory guy.


It's a 233 HP 2 barrel 351W according to the sticker on the valve cover.

If you ask any engine questions you'll have to make sure you mention that it's a Mercruiser because there are quite a few differences in the bolt on stuff as compared to the PCM 351 that's the most common in CC's.

You have a rear mount top entry starter. Mercruiser exhaust manifolds, complete with about 6 miles of hoses from the thermostat housing which is also a Mercruiser part.

The raw water pump is also different, but still available from Mercruiser or also the aftermarket.

The transmission is the same Borg Warner that came with the PCM engines

For an answer or 2, you don't need cooling water for a compression test. You can remove the raw water pump belt to avoid putting any wear on the pump when doing the compression test.

For supplying cooling to run on the trailer, there are a few ways, here's a link to one way with a lot of threads/posts describing the Timmy Tee


We'll let somebody else answer the other stuff, I'm old and it's past my bedtime (or maybe I just don't want to make you depressed  about the stringers) Wink


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75SkiNautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-13-2021 at 9:38pm
Hi Keno, thank you for taking time to give me a bit more info. I had no idea Canadian boats had different motors. Is it correct that this motor is also a reverse rotation 351w?   

Few more for you: 

- Should I brace the hull prior to removing the floor and secondary stringers? I will keep the primary stringers in place for now just wondering if I can begin deconstructing the floor while the boat is on the trailer.    

- Do you know what a factory 1975 ski pylon mount is supposed to look like? Mine just sits in the small brass hole on the bottom of the bilge area. I have seen other pics of boats with an aluminum clamp around the pylon. Not sure if I'm missing parts.

Figured the boat was due for stringers, I was just in denial haha. Truth is the second I felt those stripped motor mount lags I knew I was in for it. Better safe then sorry, especially when the motor is 4 inches from your back. Thanks alot for your information these boats are incredibly rare up North. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 7:08am
Mercruiser made that engine in both Normal and Reverse rotation.

You most likely have a Reverse rotation in your boat since it's  a CC, but there are things you can do to verify rotation

If the engine runs, look at the pulleys from the driver's seat. They should be rotating Counter Clockwise if it's Reverse rotation.(no exhaust tubing in your picture, but if it starts, you'll see the pulley rotation)

If it doesn't run, your picture shows a starter that's a lot newer than the engine is, so there could be a question about whether the right starter was put in. Somebody always asks Wink

One way to verify that the starter is turning the engine the right way is to take the distributor cap off and watch the rotation of the rotor while you crank the engine over.

If the rotor goes Counter Clockwise, the starter is correct for the engine.

If it goes Clockwise, it's the wrong starter and the engine won't ever run.

It gets a little involved but the basic explanation is that whether it's a Normal or Reverse Rotation engine, the distributor always turns Counter Clockwise.

So........popping the cap and checking the rotor rotation may save you a lot of headaches Wink

When you go to take the spark plugs out, you'll probably figure out that a spark plug socket doesn't fit with those exhaust manifolds, but if you use the box end of a combination wrench, you'll have no problem getting them out.

The aluminum engine cradle you mention didn't show up till about 1980. Your description sounds right for the pylon. It fit the socket in the hull and was braced where it went through the floor.

Your hull is pretty stiff and you could do your floor and secondary stringer work with it on the trailer.

People have done complete stringer jobs on that hull on the trailer, but you'll get some opinions on stringer work soon I'd imagine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 3:31pm
You've got yourself a beautiful hull there, if she's original gel coat and you plan to keep it then it's absolutely worth a complete stringer job.

A partial stringer job can be done and be fine, but 3 things, 
1.the money for the partial stringers and the money for any finish work will be lost when you decide to do a full stringer job/if you decide.
2. you may quickly see other issues around the engine stringers, mostly the battery compartment and exhaust slots adjacent to the engine.  Those issues could easily turn a partial into a full blown job.
3. I would research the resin choice and make some test panels/pieces/parts to see what resin you like best and why, things like working time, tool life and preparation will help you wih that.

I just did a full stringer and floor on my 79 and have some key things i would do differently a second time that would save money and weight tho theres not much weight to lose on this hull.

Beatiful boat, post more pictures and let us know before you do any major dis assembly or cutting specially cutting, your stringers and floor look just like mine did and i think you can do a partial that would convert the floor around the dogbox into a floor dogbox combo like mine is now.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 3:45pm


I think you could tub out the engine compartment, reinstall a new wooden crossmember for the pylon and convert the dogbox.
A little planning and tying in the rest of the stringers and floor could be done later without tearing out the tub job. 
I got a great idea to do the floor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 6:31pm
Hello Keno/ Wayoutthere



I'm back after wrenching on the Nautique, the news is..... not great. Tip on using a wrench on the spark plug was invaluable. My pulleys spin counter clockwise, when observing the engine from the flywheel end, towards the pulley end.  After doing a cold compression test with a standard tester, the numbers are quite bad. 30 psi on one cylinder, most others at 90 psi. Two at 120 psi. So obviously a rebuild is needed. Oil smells like gas so fair guess the rings are shot. 

This boat did run when I bought it although it was hard to start, had to use a shot of quickstart on it. When out on the lake it seemed to run fine (after a shot of quickstart to get it going). Accelerated good and went on plane. My mistake for not checking the compression, just learned the hard way. Now should I try to start the boat and get a hot compression test? Any worth in doing a leak down test? 

Motor will be coming out tomorrow, could anyone tell me if a need to buy right hand rotation specific parts for this motor? My plan is to do a rebuild. Will a standard 351w rebuild kit work? What are the exact differences between a RR motor and a standard one( in relation to the interals) 

Any tips on removing the motor other than disconnecting the driveshaft, removing the dizzy and carb, and yanking it out with a cherry picker?( rated at 1000lbs) .Would you recommend I replace any other parts on the motor other than a standard rebuild? Preventative maintenance.  






Wayoutthere, I've read several of your threads about your restoration, really great workmanship on your boat. 
I've done a bit of work on the dogbox(rebuilt with new ply), mostly to distract me from the stringers/motor. What are the benefits to having a tubbed out engine compartment like yours? 

Pretty well decided on full stringer job at this point, LVL or douglas fir, what would you guys say? Im pretty decent with wood and know to check check clear/straight/tight grain. West systems epoxy is also on my list. Another question for you guys, is CPES just epoxy thinned with acetone?( or will that work similar to penetrate the wood?) 

Few more pics for you guys: Quick wetsand/compound on one side of the hull, again just distractions from the real issues LOL. No I did not cut holes in my transom for lights, previous owner did some redneck s#$T and ran the exhaust up to those holes through glass packs. Lights were in the original exhaust ports, first thing I did was switch them around. More progress: painted cowls, mocked up dogbox upholstery( don't worry its not finished). Teak platform sanded up and took teak oil beautifully. Deconstruction pics to follow. Just want to say again your advice is appreciated! 



Anyone know how to rotate pics when you upload? 




Does anyone have any reccomendations about where to buy engine parts? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by 75SkiNautique 75SkiNautique wrote:

 My pulleys spin counter clockwise, when observing the engine from the flywheel end, towards the pulley end.  

That would make the engine a standard rotation. Check the prop. Looking forward from the aft end, a RH prop (reverse rotaion) will turn clockwise when going forward. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 7:43pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by 75SkiNautique 75SkiNautique wrote:

 My pulleys spin counter clockwise, when observing the engine from the flywheel end, towards the pulley end.  

That would make the engine a standard rotation. Check the prop. Looking forward from the aft end, a RH prop (reverse rotaion) will turn clockwise when going forward. 

Better yet, since you're young and quickly figured out how to post pictures here on CCF, post a picture or 2 of the prop and that'll be a good indicator of rotation since the boat ran with that prop on it. Wink

By the way, I see a large economy size engine box for clearance around the Mercruiser manifolds
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-14-2021 at 8:42pm
The first picture i posted is basically all you'd be cutting out to do a partial stringer.
Roughly 6 inches on each side and 9 inches on the front and back. 
The advantage is a very roomy engine compartment for maintenaince.

I've never heard of cpes until i joined this site.

Counterclockwise from behind the engine is standard rotaton or Left Hand since you ran the boat take a picture of the propellor and post it. 
Sorry to hear about the compression test, ford manual says operating temperature, maybe it's a stuck ring from sitting and that's why the oil smells like gas, maybe ? 

I'm the last guy you should ask about engines, specially ignition wiring and carburators, but being a mercruiser if the serial number is still intact you'll have a good starting point, plus the members here are very familiar with and have quite a bit of knowledge on these engines so your in good hands. Go to perfprotech.com, they have parts breakdowns and exploded views of all the old and new stuff NLA or not.
i'll try and get a link, they're in stillwater Ok. Former mercury guys from the old stillwater mercury facility.

Edit in; Sorry guys, i didn't read the other replies about the prop being looked at.
After you take the engine out DON'T cut anything until you take some engine location measurements and make reference marks on the hull that you can always find and verify during the rebuild.
Also how far is your prop away from the strut, my opinion may differ maybe the senior members will throw in their opinions on that matter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 1:35am


WOT/Ken/Pete heres a few shots of the prop, hopefully clears things up: 



Floors coming up soon!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 4:46am
Originally posted by 75SkiNautique 75SkiNautique wrote:



WOT/Ken/Pete heres a few shots of the prop, hopefully clears things up: 







Just like you said, it's LH rotation (AKA normal rotation or automotive rotation)

Your strut to prop clearance looks like a typical factory distance on a mid 70's Ski Nautique. Looks to be in the 2 to 2/1/2 inch range.

Is it optimal?  No, but it's how they built it and it's worked for the last 46 years.

PS If you hit the space bar in between pictures you'll get some separation so they don't all run together and to answer your picture rotation question.............no, but when you figure it out let the rest of us know Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mpost Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 8:54am
You can rotate pictures with Paint in windows 10. 
I just saved this picture from above. Opened it with paint and there are resize and rotate options on the left side of the tool bar. Rotate it the direction you want and save it. Smile

I also have tried using windows picture viewer but had bad results. It seemed to rotate on my PC but when upladed it was not the same rotation. Angry



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 9:02am
Welcome. Very cool project.
WOT just finished his so CCF is ready for another   Good winter fun
Try rotating pics while in your phones files, way before you load into CCF (might work)
Happy to watch your restoration
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote samudj01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 10:11am
Looking forward to your progress. My 2 cents…go ahead and plan on a full stringer job. Two reasons: 1) I can’t imagine the time, effort and money will be that much more (both will be expensive) and 2) you will probably find more rot than you think. West systems is good but expensive. Take a look at US Composites. Quite a few members have used and been happy. We did our tique with their epoxy and just got our order in for the skier we are restoring. Both had tons of rot…78 and 73. Take a look at my threads. I tried to document the whole process on the tique. Pics are lost but I am happy to share. I got all of my info and learning from folks here and their threads. Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 10:13am
Originally posted by samudj01 samudj01 wrote:

Looking forward to your progress. My 2 cents…go ahead and plan on a full stringer job. Two reasons: 1) I can’t imagine the time, effort and money will be that much more (both will be expensive) and 2) you will probably find more rot than you think. West systems is good but expensive. Take a look at US Composites. Quite a few members have used and been happy. We did our tique with their epoxy and just got our order in for the skier we are restoring. Both had tons of rot…78 and 73. Take a look at my threads. I tried to document the whole process on the tique. Pics are lost but I am happy to share. I got all of my info and learning from folks here and their threads. Good luck!

Plus 1. I totally agree.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 11:52am
Originally posted by Mpost Mpost wrote:

You can rotate pictures with Paint in windows 10. 
I just saved this picture from above. Opened it with paint and there are resize and rotate options on the left side of the tool bar. Rotate it the direction you want and save it. Smile

I also have tried using windows picture viewer but had bad results. It seemed to rotate on my PC but when upladed it was not the same rotation. Angry



 

I'll have to give that a try Thanks Marty Wink

Still a lot of work though, take a picture, put it on the computer, post it here and figure out that it rotated, then do what you mentioned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2021 at 7:52pm
I think this hull has a lot of promise, only cosmetic i see is the transom and it's not that bad, bet the rudder port and rear lift eye plywood is dry. 

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Hey guys back from another long night working on the Nautique. Thanks for all the input! First time cutting up a fibreglass boat floor, went pretty damn good( no holes accidentally cut through the hull YET). As for the secondary stringer condition, I'll let the pics speak for themselves: 





First cut in the floor.........ah s#$t doesn't look factory... 


 


Hmm looks like some kind of glue lam beam? 





One side cleaned up, damn that foam is not fun to take out! Completely soaking wet and smells GREAT 






Interesting stringer construction technique, floatation foam core to save weight! Previous guy who did this boat was clearly a master boatbuilder......




Ah yes it seems my port secondary is just a collection of random off cuts covered in spray foam. 



excellent job on the stringer bud.. :) 












She's getting there, not too bad progress for one night. Now here comes the part where I need some expertise. Im thinking there was a large patch done to this hull at some point. These last few pics will illustrate what I'm talking about. One side of the boat is covered below the water line in a white antifouling paint. Looks like it is possibly to hide a repair. When I pulled the floor over this area I noticed the glass was much rougher and felt a bit brittle. Definitely a different colour also. Seems solid, although when I heavily scraped the area with my crow bar I did notice a few flakes chip off the surface. 

Also look at the pic of the chine under the 'repair" you can see a filler has been added. My question to the epoxy experts on here is should I be concerned? How to prevent any future delamination? Also I plan to reinforce the area, how should I do this? 





pics of the seam between the factory glass and the unknown glass^ 





shot of what I think is a patch^ 




Chine from outside, under the repair. any way to clean this up better and make it stronger? 
Also any tips for how to cut the front floor out without going through the hull? 



original Water Bonnet decal intact :) 
Thoughts on white oak for a stringer material? Thanks again guys this site is amazing! Stay tuned for more updates soon...... Cheers


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75SkiNautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 1:05am
Hey can anyone post a pic of what the secondary stringers are supposed to look like? Also how far up the hull do I need to make my next cuts? Should I remove all the glass including the little ridge and vent hose area in the bow of the boat? 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 6:35am
Thats 100 percent factory stringers, they threw pieces in from across the shop floor and dropped wet glass onto it from up in the catwalk, zero effort, zero qc.

It's not a patch, it's extra glass thrown in there around the engine, you can see it on both sides in the 5th from last picture.

It may have popped/peeled/delammed from an impact like the fender or something. 
(Maybe why the fenders are gone and she's raised up on 3 layers of 2x4)
They used chopped strand mat, the wrong material in the wrong place, and prep for secondary bond was piss poor.
You can see the checkerboard looking material next to it, that's woven roving.

The hull was laid up very good with woven roving, when it went to stringers and floor they dropped they ball.
All the chopped strand mat has to be ground off. It's a pain but while grinding you'll see start to see the checkerboard telling you to stop.. wait till you get to the battery box and grinding the gel off the bigle.

Don't use a hammer or a pry bar unless the glass is very loose or cut and the foam is still holding it.

Use a multi tool with a round blade to cut the floor loose, it's only 2 inches from the bottom.
mine popped right off the hull side because of poor secondary bond not enough and the wrong material.

I would use marine ply for your stringers, you'll never find a straight piece of 1x6 or 2x8 let alone 4 o them 12 feet long. Plus 2x4 etc material is still a tree and does what it is designed to do ( efficiently move water from the source to the other end) but that doesn't mean it couldn't last if encapsulated real good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 9:39am
Your making good progress actually
Start wearing a N95 do not breathe that foam glass dust
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samudj01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 11:59am
Take a look at the following thread for some pics. I’m on my phone so somewhat limited

https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43078&PN=1&title=new-to-me-72-skier

We found Doug fir pretty easily at a specialty lumber supplier. Finished wood work on stringers last night. Cpes on Sunday. Already have glass supplies to get started. Will be a few weekends before glassing.

Lots of other detailed build threads out there but many of the pics were lost in the recent hack.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by wayoutthere wayoutthere wrote:



Thats 100 percent factory stringers, they threw pieces in from across the shop floor and dropped wet glass onto it from up in the catwalk, zero effort, zero qc.

It's not a patch, it's extra glass thrown in there around the engine, you can see it on both sides in the 5th from last picture.[



For someone that didn’t know d*ck about a correctcraft and still doesn’t you sure are an expert now and can tell the world how crappy they built a boat that has lasted 42 years not knowing on how it was maintained through its life.

I have already completely restored my ‘85 so I pretty much know what is needed and what to expect.
I read all the inaccurate Assumptions you made while hacking your boat apart and was kindly biting my tongue. If these boats were cobbled together like you seem to believe I don’t think there would be any worth saving.

This is from a person that has rebuilt one and owned three.
Rant over, Carry on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 5:30pm
The secondaries run all the way forward until they taper away to almost nothing where the hull curves up at the drivers  feet area if that makes sense to you.

I would not use oak as oak has a porous grain to it. Being in Canada I would think you can get Douglas Fir that’s what was originally used
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 5:41pm
Originally posted by wayoutthere wayoutthere wrote:

 
I would use marine ply for your stringers,

I don't feel using any type of common ply or even marine ply is a good idea. On every other ply veneer the grain runs the wrong direction for strength. If you can't find Doug fir, then an alternate that has been used is LVL. All the grain in LVL runs parallel to the length giving it the strength in the proper direction.


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Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 5:43pm
Kyle,
That's a patch at the chine. Looks like that hull ended up on some rocks during it's previous life.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2021 at 9:12pm
Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

Originally posted by wayoutthere wayoutthere wrote:



Thats 100 percent factory stringers, they threw pieces in from across the shop floor and dropped wet glass onto it from up in the catwalk, zero effort, zero qc.

It's not a patch, it's extra glass thrown in there around the engine, you can see it on both sides in the 5th from last picture.[



For someone that didn’t know d*ck about a correctcraft and still doesn’t you sure are an expert now and can tell the world how crappy they built a boat that has lasted 42 years not knowing on how it was maintained through its life.

I have already completely restored my ‘85 so I pretty much know what is needed and what to expect.
I read all the inaccurate Assumptions you made while hacking your boat apart and was kindly biting my tongue. If these boats were cobbled together like you seem to believe I don’t think there would be any worth saving.

This is from a person that has rebuilt one and owned three.
Rant over, Carry on

I wish you didn't bite your tongue, that's why i post the pics and say what it looks like, how it was made and damaged, how to fix or how it ended getting done, because i'm looking for help, i don't know what i'm doing, or d*ck as you say buddy !

I did say many times the hull was laid up real nice, but it went downhill at stringers and floor, so yes they're cobbled together but the hull is really good and i have never said not worth saving. 
When you restored your 85 did you do glass work like what's outlined in marker on the below pictures or did you try your hardest to do a better job than the factory ?

Throwing wood in from across the shop and dropping glass from the catwalk is right on par with the slam bang, hit everyting they could, roller boogey at the disco comments i made about my boat.

Admin, you should probably delete my posts and thread since my sense of humor has gone and really done it this time.
Thanks everyone who chimed in, helped and motivated me thru the wiring and carb issues on frankenstein.
Oops, does calling the engine frankenstein, never mind, did it again !

75skinautique, heres a don't know d*ck look at what your outboard/secondary stringers look like.
Luckily, they weren't bedded down to the hull and the mat ( that is outlined in black magic marker) that looks like someome wadded it up and hoop shot it in peeled right off the wood. The foam was holding them in place. Both of them popped right out and used as templates.
They are cut to fit front to back and ground to fit the deadrise.

But they are total hack/don't know d*ck job made from inferior materials (same stringer material as offshore performance boats) that i tossed in from the roof of my neighbors house at night.
Rant over, carry on.











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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2021 at 7:01am
Gun-driver 

Something tells me that you and WOT may agree more than you think on the craftsmanship below the floor.

Here's a quote from your stringer thread (minus the long gone pictures)

Originally posted by gun-driver gun-driver wrote:

More horse power for your motor�$1,500
Supplies for new stringers��.$1,000
Having your wife approve buying more tools to do the job�.PRICELESS!!!!

So it begins, I took the motor out for the new heads, camshafts, high rise manifold ect.
(Thanks Eric, He was tired of working those crappy Chevy�s so I gave him a nice Ford to work on)
While the motor was out I kept thinking about the stringers. Now my floor was solid no soft spots, the main stringers sounded solid (tapping with hammer) but the secondary�s had some fiberglass cracking off. The wood was solid when poked with a screwdriver, but I thought to myself I can�t be the only one with a 24 year old boat that is dry and solid.
So out came the carpet in one piece (that one surprised me) then off came the floor for some exploratory surgery. Sure enough the foam was soaked on the bottom inch or so and dry on top. The more foam I pulled out the more water I found. Now this boat hasn�t been in the water since Sept last year, it did get some snow melt in it when the cover got 12� of snow on it then rain caused it to sag in and the water got in. So as with others the foam was soaked.
Then I started removing the fiberglass from the secondary stringers. I was pleasantly surprised that only where the glass had separated was the wood only slightly wet the rest looked like new.
I love Correct Crafts that�s why I own two, but I have to say that they could have done a better job then they did. I found a block of wood lying on the hull and the foam poured right over top of it, of course it was totally saturated. The second thing I found was when they lagged the platform braces on they missed the area supported with the extra plywood. I assume that�s where they where supposed to go. The third was the original fiberglass wrap on the secondary�s under the floor was paper thin. (One coat of light weight glass)
So this is step one of the process. I will keep you guy�s updated as I go. I hope it will be a short story not a novel !!

The start


The easy way to remove foam





The lags between the extra ply(above the stringer)


The thin fiberglass


This is the inboard side ofthe stringer. It doesn't even touch the hull and the gap was full of wet foam.


Here's the block of wood they foamed over.


That's it for now more to follow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67 ski nat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-18-2021 at 10:34am
Bummed that you two are arguing (gun and wot).
Hopefully you both can ‘stay calm and carry on’
However I was shock by ‘75skinautique’
Pics of the pieced together wood as a stringer. I found nothing but solid all one piece clear lumber (fir I presume) in my 67
The glass mat was well done and only delaminated at connection points
The wood should be a solid piece for structural support and act as rebar in concrete. Those pieces do not make sense


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