1975 Ski Nautique Restoration Questions

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You ask a bunch of questions and it looks like you got lost in the shuffle, but here's some info and maybe even a few answers 
One obviously noticeable thing is that you seem to have a real genuine north of the border Canadian boat with a dealer installed Mercruiser engine. Here's a link to that Canadian info from an old thread. Art who talks about it is a retired CC  factory guy.

link

It's a 233 HP 2 barrel 351W according to the sticker on the valve cover.

If you ask any engine questions you'll have to make sure you mention that it's a Mercruiser because there are quite a few differences in the bolt on stuff as compared to the PCM 351 that's the most common in CC's.

You have a rear mount top entry starter. Mercruiser exhaust manifolds, complete with about 6 miles of hoses from the thermostat housing which is also a Mercruiser part.

The raw water pump is also different, but still available from Mercruiser or also the aftermarket.

The transmission is the same Borg Warner that came with the PCM engines

For an answer or 2, you don't need cooling water for a compression test. You can remove the raw water pump belt to avoid putting any wear on the pump when doing the compression test.

For supplying cooling to run on the trailer, there are a few ways, here's a link to one way with a lot of threads/posts describing the Timmy Tee

link

We'll let somebody else answer the other stuff, I'm old and it's past my bedtime (or maybe I just don't want to make you depressed  about the stringers) 

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KENO Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10667	Post Options Post Reply Quote KENO Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: September-13-2021 at 9:16pm
	You ask a bunch of questions and it looks like you got lost in the shuffle, but here's some info and maybe even a few answers One obviously noticeable thing is that you seem to have a real genuine north of the border Canadian boat with a dealer installed Mercruiser engine. Here's a link to that Canadian info from an old thread. Art who talks about it is a retired CC factory guy. link It's a 233 HP 2 barrel 351W according to the sticker on the valve cover. If you ask any engine questions you'll have to make sure you mention that it's a Mercruiser because there are quite a few differences in the bolt on stuff as compared to the PCM 351 that's the most common in CC's. You have a rear mount top entry starter. Mercruiser exhaust manifolds, complete with about 6 miles of hoses from the thermostat housing which is also a Mercruiser part. The raw water pump is also different, but still available from Mercruiser or also the aftermarket. The transmission is the same Borg Warner that came with the PCM engines For an answer or 2, you don't need cooling water for a compression test. You can remove the raw water pump belt to avoid putting any wear on the pump when doing the compression test. For supplying cooling to run on the trailer, there are a few ways, here's a link to one way with a lot of threads/posts describing the Timmy Tee link We'll let somebody else answer the other stuff, I'm old and it's past my bedtime (or maybe I just don't want to make you depressed about the stringers)

75SkiNautique Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: September-12-2021 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75SkiNautique Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: September-13-2021 at 2:39pm
	Hello All, I've recently started work on my '75 Ski Nautique and have a few questions. First off I am a novice and apologize for posting a new topic instead of researching previous threads, many older threads are missing pictures. I'll get right into it: - Is it true I can run the boat out of the water by screwing my garden hose directly to the raw water pickup? Also just to confirm the raw water pickup is the grated intake located by the port stringer? - Do I need to have water circulating through the motor in order to preform a compression check? ( worried about the impeller, although it will be changed soon) - Im on the fence about replacing the stringers. Most motor mount lag bolts do not torque down, they just spin in place. I have removed and inspected all the holes and found mostly mush around the threads. I have removed a previously botched repair and am able to see the condition of the stingers rear of the motor, looks to be wet but solid douglas fir. I know they tend to rot from the bottom up so I drilled down and found dry wood. Several other cores taken from the stringers also showed mostly dry wood. Would you consider a partial stringer replacement, just around the motor mounts and any other problem areas? Or is the full replacement the way to go? My concerns are mostly cost related ( I am 24 years old). Secondary stringers and floors will be replaced for sure. - I have heard that the new floors actually need about 1/4 inch clearance around the sides of the hull before being glassed in? I am using 3/4 exterior ply. - What kind of paint should I use to restore the decals on the hull? - Is relocating the battery to the rear seat area advisable? Not sure if the heat from the exhaust tubes are a factor. This boat will be getting a new interior with new wood, rear seating will be fabricated. Thank you for your insight. Hope to bring this boat back, previous owners did some questionable stuff to her. Any tips are appreciated.

1975 Ski Nautique Restoration Questions

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