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Exhaust Manifold - Repair or Replace?

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    Posted: March-28-2021 at 8:40am
At the end of last season I noticed some water leaking out between the exhaust manifold and riser elbow. As a part of spring maintenance, decided to replace the gaskets. I only pulled the starboard riser, and had to apply some force to break it free from the manifold. Upon inspection, there's definitely a lot of corrosion. It also appears that what remains of the original gasket is corroded to the riser. Pictures are attached for your viewing pleasure. I'm assuming that pulling the port riser would yield a similar result, but let me know if that's a bad assumption.

I'm still fairly new to DIY motor work, so just seeking a little guidance on what direction to go in here. I haven't tried this, but I'm guessing that just slapping the new gasket on as is won't create a proper seal. So knowing that, can I take the manifold and riser to a machine shop to have them clean up the mating surfaces? Would a machine shop have a method to clean up the internal corrosion as well? Or is it time to invest in a new set of risers and manifolds?

Thanks as always for the great help and advice!







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2021 at 9:01am
You should be able to clean up the gasket surfaces with a file.  Just keep it flat & don't be in a hurry.  I would't worry about cleaning out the inside, other than to flush out loose debris.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2021 at 12:10pm
+1 on clean up the mating surfaces with a file.  Good to go.  I like to put a piece of wadded-up paper towel inside the exhaust manifold opening to keep any debris from falling inside.  Then carefully remove the wad.  If it was my boat, I would install new bolts. I like to use a bit of anti-seize lube on the install, but then back off the torque a bit.  You can find grade 8 bolts from Fastenal that will work well.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poecs13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2021 at 7:42pm
Sounds like I'll give the filing a shot!

JQ, any recs on anti-seize product?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2021 at 10:55pm
Permatex Anti-iSeize lubricant is what I use. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poecs13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2021 at 5:03pm
Okay...what about getting the studs out? They appear to be rusted in. Worth trying to replace? Will I do more damage than good trying to replace? Recommended products and methods?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poecs13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2021 at 9:56pm
So the metal file was slow going, so I changed over to a power sander. Seemed to get a pretty good result:



Reinstalled with new gaskets. However, still have a slight trickle coming from the rear of the port riser. I did not apply any type of sealant, and have read mixed reviews on that on prior posts. Any thoughts on next steps? Try sealant? Did I mess it up with the power sander?

Also, I noticed that after shutting down the engine, the transmission cooler has a nice steady trickle also. No trickle present when the engine is running. I'm guessing this is not normal behavior, right? Ran out of daylight so will have to investigate that one further this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-13-2021 at 10:11pm
The surface condition looks good but leaks can still occur if it’s not flat. Sanding blocks are usually a good idea on mating surfaces like that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2021 at 6:38am
Did you recheck your nuts after things heated up to make sure they're still tightened to whatever torque you tightened them to?

Back in post #1 you asked about taking things to a machine shop, maybe it's time to do that so they can take a small cut on both the riser and manifold surfaces

The water from the cooler when shutdown is telling you that when running you have an air leak that will affect the raw water pumps ability to get a good suction at low speeds. There's a vacuum there when the pump is running so no water leaks out, just air leaking in, then when you turn it off and the vacuum is gone, you have water leaking out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2021 at 7:14am
Machine shop or go back to the flat file.

On the trans cooler, understand it's a thin copper so you do need to be careful with them. When you get a closer look, get back with us to where the leak on the cooler is. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poecs13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-16-2021 at 12:27pm
Just pulled the exhaust manifold and riser on both sides so I can hopefully get to a machine shop first thing tomorrow morning. Can the exhaust manifold gaskets be safely reused or do I need to get fresh gaskets?

Also, the port side elbow gasket looked like this when I separated the elbow:



I assume this is damaged and I need to get another one?

Will report back on trans cooler soon.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote poecs13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2021 at 10:59am
re: trans cooler

Just pulled off the intake hose and found that the opening on the cooler is not perfectly round, flat on one side. I'm guessing I probably knocked it at some point and maybe overtightened the band clamp. My first thought is simply bend it back into shape? Any best practices for that other than going at it with pliers/vice grips? Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2021 at 4:35pm
You can attempt to re-shape the tranny cooler.  Worst case is you may need to install a new one if the re-shape is unsuccessful.  Not too expensive, so you don’t have much to lose.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2021 at 6:39pm
Use a tapered socket about the right size.  Tap it in with a hammer until cooler looks round again.
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