1991 Sport Nautique Open Bow Stringer

Good work with the adhesive lined heat shrink crimp on connectors. It's an item I always recommend. Yes, the old wire can be a real PITA. Thanks for the tip. It's too bad there aren't many boat builders that go for the extra cost of using tinned marine grade wire. 

 https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20669&title=home-brew  

I used hard drainage pipe for the ventilation which I then glued up ready for the floor to go in 

I bought enough polyurethane expanding foam to fill the voids but High ambient caused overheating and my tests expanded ridiculously quickly which  could deal with but the foam over expanded not leaving closed cells so the foam deflated a short while after.

I managed to do the essential bow end filling around the vent pipes in the bow. the other areas i fitted pre expanded foal board into the voids before putting the floor on top. I do not need the structure as I have 15mm birch board with a layer of glass on the underside too so I only need the emergency flotation properties of the foam. This allowed me to keep moving  and get both sides of front floor down on peanut butter held down with cast iron drain grates dark air full of mosquitos I will get a better photo later. I am so happy the levels look good and boat feels very rigid. Just got to find the energy to finish in the next window of dry weather. BTW my stingers were 8% moisture level after living in our bedroom with a dehumidifier so I think the bond will be good with the wood. 

On the engine front the gearbox is now on the engine and off the stand. Compression Wow Yes Fuel yes but no spark....

Can you believe the cruel trick that those nice guys at Sierra distributor paid on me...

Yes the connector is correctly inserted 

But it took a bit of finding to see that green and red wires are swapped on the connector. 

Electrical system on a board let me check that I had oil pressure and all the sensors on the engine work while manually priming the oil pump and cranking to try and start. . Good weather then switched all effort to hull I will start the engine on the next wet day. I hope.... 

I am now thinking of the next challenges..... How to get the engine into the boat and how to align the prop shaft with the engine. 

I dream of doing this in a garage with a bench a vice ....

Many thanks for the encouragement and in particular for the layup plan from MechGa T it worked a treat even if i did laminate a lot of it with my bare hands (glove-less) to squish out the bubbles Desperate laminating techniques!

Its warming up here so I need to finish the big stuff soon!

I hope to get the cloth on the top tomorrow. 

I would like the time to be a bit more pretty but Engine lift in opportunity with a Hiab is next week so I need to keep moving. 

I am now optimistic enough to think of propellers. This in the one I have, two blades were bent and I beat them back into shape forged in fire style. looks like a prop but i guess i had better change it. I want to do wake surfing with this boat, I have zero experience, Which prop should i get? I have no idea of the history of this one so no idea if it is good or bad selection.

I 

I got my top layer of glass on the floor. I ended up with a 100m roll of biaxial so I used it for my final layer. 

I was very close to running our of resin so it seems the 8 gallon total estimate was pretty good.

Two coats of bilge coat have gone on after a small amount of faring as I am under time pressure.

I am stunned that the engine frame went in as a slightly squeeky fit and when i put my gauges in and measured I am within a millimetre off the position of the frame original position compared to the prop exit and the floor. 

I put the screws in with lashings of silicone in the holes and between the frame and stringer. 

How to get the engine in. Hiab crane on the back of a truck is possible but scary as someone else will be on the controls..... and translation problems..... 

getting a a frame etc to hoist would be under my control but difficult to get together. I still have serious amount of stuff to do before I must do the engine so I have some time to consider. 

What I must study is how to do the alignment of the engine to the prop shaft.  all my mountings are new so I guess i need to start from scratch. Is there a procedure to do it ?

progress

If anyone sees something i have missed or something i have done thats stupid please let me know!! 

I am pleased with the sealed drainage pipes under the floor it worked out well and the floppy air duct was quick held in with cable ties and fixed in the corners with spray expanding foam.

 

;

YES THAT IS A DOUBLE LAZYBOY ON MY BEACH FORGET THE PLASTIC BOTTLE PROBLEM IN ASIA FIRST WE NEED TO SOLVE THE LOUNGE FURNITURE ISSUE. 

New prop 

So, you're correct. The drivers seat is mounted on a plastic wedge which is lagged into the floor. On top of that mounting "wedge" contains the rails that the seat slides onto, and can subsequently adjust with the side lever, fore and aft, along those rails. 

See attached picture. And yes, you could also have angles fabricated to accomplish the same.

Here is also a pic of a 91 Sport with the single observer seat. I can't remember if the observer bench was offered that year. Someone will chime in with more info.

Keep us posted,

Mark

Drivers seat mount.

Front Dash Area.