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Motor advice needed

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brantb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brantb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Motor advice needed
    Posted: December-23-2019 at 11:57am
It is finally cold enough in the garage and i have some time so i have started working on the boat. I am doing motor work now(thread coming soon), and am ordering parts. I have some GT40P heads, ordering a weiand stealth intake, 4160 rebuild kit, gaskets and head bolts and other misc items

Just wondering if the DUI distributor/wires are worth the ~$500.

What about a new cam. Not sure i want to tear into the motor more, but it is also out. Figure $250 for a new cam and lifters, could probably reuse the push rods.

Also, how do you break in a cam and set the timing? Seems like it would be hard to run it at ~2500 rpms and varying the rpms and get the timing set. Do you just set it close enough, break in the cam, then set it to whatever it is supposed to be?

Anything else i need to order?

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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-23-2019 at 4:27pm
As far as the cam goes, you could talk to the outfit in the link below about a cam and their break in service for an extra 60 bucks, then you won't have to worry at all about the break in procedure.

link

They may be pretty close to you too depending on where you are in Colorado
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Nautiquehunter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nautiquehunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-24-2019 at 8:57am
I have been using the automotive HEI distributors found on eBay seller theswapmeetparts (24237 . You will have to remove the vacuum advance, install a vent and re curve the advance weights but for $99.00 with wires its well worth it . You will also have to remove the pin on the cam gear and let it float. I have been running them for years on three different boats. They work perfectly. Let me know if you need more information Mike 678-227-8833
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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-24-2019 at 10:34am
Originally posted by Nautiquehunter Nautiquehunter wrote:

I have been using the automotive HEI distributors found on eBay seller theswapmeetparts (24237 . You will have to remove the vacuum advance, install a vent and re curve the advance weights but for $99.00 with wires its well worth it . You will also have to remove the pin on the cam gear and let it float. I have been running them for years on three different boats. They work perfectly. Let me know if you need more information Mike 678-227-8833


You could at least give him a link to your thread about the "conversion"

Here's a quote from a different thread from 4 days ago and the link is in there

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

As far as the distributor, it more a matter of spark protection.

Where the advance mechanism goes through the distributor there's an opening that gas fumes can pass through and get into the distributor if you have a fuel leak.

The fumes meet the spark in the distributor and you have an explosion that is not contained in the distributor because of that open unprotected path.

The marine version has no vacuum advance and the opening is blocked off but there are a couple of vent holes in the body of a DUI HEI marine distributor that have brass screens in them which keep the explosion contained inside the distributor.

The gas fumes can still get in if you have a leak but like mentioned above the screens prevent the internal explosion from getting outside the distributor so it keeps the fumes in the engine compartment from exploding. The distributor may be damaged internally, but you won't be in an exploding boat.

It works on the same principle as an old miners lamp

Here's a link down below to a thread by somebody who "converted" his Chinese distributor.

In his mind it meets USCG requirements   

The typical factory job has 2 layers of screen per vent hole, not 1 like he did. I think there's a reason for that

Lots of people have survived for a long time without USCG approved stuff on their boat, but it just takes that one bad day to change all that.

link

Some later marine certified distributors are well sealed with no openings for fumes to get into the distributor.

By the way, is your engine normal automotive rotation or if it's reverse rotation, did you have some machine work done to adapt a reverse rotation gear to that distributor?


You'll probably notice that I just threw out some information so he could decide in his own mind, just like you did whether you feel safe with it.

I'll leave it to others to discuss whether it's safe or unsafe to them. Just call me "undecided"   

I'm sure there are plenty of people out there just throwing in the automotive distributor with no modification at all in their normal rotation engine. it's a little tougher in a reverse rotation Ford though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-24-2019 at 10:42am
Consider if you clock the lifers and rotate the engine 20 revolutions before putting on the intake, you can verify all the lifters are rotating, or not.. Then with more certainty the cam will survive break in, or correct the issue immediately before damage occurs. at startup

I'm partial to a pertronix igniter triggering an MSD box and blaster 3 coil

I take your engine is std rotation?

That cam seems a good improvement without being too much , i'm running similar lift at 214/224 duration

However you should do some thought about running roller cam valve springs with the flat tappet cam. that said many have done it successfully without issue.   You may want to measure some spring pressures and make sure its not too high, and of course oil additive.
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole
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