Stringers

REALLY Looking GREAT Mike!   

I already have the motor and trans done and ready to go in I am thinking a water test this weekend.

On the platform, I think it really makes the boat more usable and a ton safer. As a compromise, you might consider simply making the platform just a touch smaller in depth, as opposed to the larger dimension rectangle platforms that were originally introduced. This may keep the boat more aesthetically pleasing and dimensionally more correct. Additionally, you might consider using a mahogany vs. the teak, and the former is less dense, but also very durable, and will keep the boat lighter, which of course is good when you're hanging it off the back of the boat.

Tweety  may have to be renamed Speedy with that 351 in him. I can't wait to drive it!  

 The boat was a basket case when I got it engine was in pieces . It came with a 12x13 RH prop. The doner boat is a 1985 Supra comp 351 w and a 13x13 LH prop . I thought I would be ok because I am using the engine and trans out of the Supra. I read the post [ Barracuda strut to prop distance] and I am more confused than ever. If I move the engine forward to get about 1'' clearance between the prop and strut the 13'' prop is about 3/8'' clearance  between to the hull. I can move the engine back to get more clearance but that adds more distance between the strut and prop. I guess what I am asking is what is more critical distance between the prop and strut or distance between the prop and hull?

I would ask other Mustang owners what the distance is from the shaft log to the transmission flange and start there.  I think 1st gen Mustangs typically use a 12" prop and a 40" shaft. 

Yep, simply put the engine where it needs to be to get the correct dimensions. Then order the correct length shaft.

Riley wrote: I would ask other Mustang owners what the distance is from the shaft log to the transmission flange and start there.  I think 1st gen Mustangs typically use a 12" prop and a 40" shaft.

Don't now how long the shaft is on the 72'but I do know that it's a 12" wheel An ACME 1210 I think. Uncle Todd, Tim, Joe and Mars are way more verse in the realm of repowering or adding more horses under the cover than anyone. My .02 is to stay with the 12" prop since you're using the same strut that came of it. You may have to go with 1214 or 2068.

Mike,

Gary S wrote: I don't know Pete- PCM rated their 351 at the same rpm as their 302-  4,400.  They also only rated it at 25 hp more. Maybe the 351 shines more in the torque department figures they didn't publish.

Nautiquehunter wrote: Made some headway today . Set new 351 in the boat to check alignment so I can see if the original stringer design will work with the new engine and mounts without modification. . The good news is the distance between the stringers is the same on both boats and as far as I can see it should line up with the prop shaft. Only question is there a set distance between the strut and the prop I used the rub marks on the shaft to get me close. I don't have a pattern to copy since the engines are different and there are multiple holes in the stringers from the old engine. Not important now but will be needed after new stringers are installed and engine is installed. More good news I think I solved the picture posting problem.

Check the length of the shaft.  If it's a single taper and looks old, maybe even original, it should be 40".

Hey Mike, was just thinking, are you adjusting the fore and aft position of the engine/trans to align with the angle of the current strut. As it occurred to me this will be a limiting factor as to where the motor is mounted. As was mentioned, you can re-insert the existing shaft, and place it where the original prop to strut dimension is. With the coupling end in the boat, you'll be able to determine the rest: 

I set the engine in the same place as the original using the rub marks on the shaft as a guide . I will go with this and do a water test in the next week or so. The engine has been sitting on a stand for a year or more. When I uncovered it I noticed an oil leak . It turned out the brass adapter that screws in the oil pan is stripped . I ordered a new one but can't run it until it arrives.  

Can’t wait for the water test.....