New to me 72 Skier

Hoses:  Going to order a bunch of new hoses.  Looking at SkiDim and NP.  Thoughts on the 3" corrogated exhaust from Marine Parts Source...seems very economical  http://marinepartssource.com/exhaust-hose-slang75?gclid=CjwKCAjws9ipBhB1EiwAccEi1BUSJYNaJ6ZK_AvV6ZD6trIzANWCxgYJEDKY-R95C3r3Gr3DHVv8ZxoCwE8QAvD_BwE

On the distributor.  I think it is a Mallory.  What wires do I need from ski dim (or should I try the yellow ones we have…not sure of their age)...I see mention of mallory under the 454 wires.

Is there a source for the nipple for the fuel overflow for a flame arrestor?  Or anyone want to trade, we have quite a few plain ones, some nice copper ones.  

 

After researching, I think they are the same as an old Bronco pan.  I just can't seem to find a dipstick that looks the same as the one we have so I would love some help  Thoughts on replacements?

That said, the one we have seems long as compared to the one on the Ski Tique (the tube and stick could be equally longer which I think would be fine, just need to confirm the length of stick inside pan).  We may need to take a trip to the Ski Tique winter garage (somewhat of a pain) and measure how far in the stick goes, total stick length and exposed tube length.

We have another tube that is a screw in...Could we tap the hole on the existing pan?  

Were tubes/sticks for 302 and 351 the same?  I don't think the pans were.   

Hoping to get this thing put together in the coming months but weekends are non-existent until after thanksgiving.  

I would like some opinions from you engine gurus as we want to start on the stand in the barn to check for leaks and get initial timing correct.  How long can we idle to accomplish this before we need to be on the water to properly seat the rings.   

As far as start up, do you remember what type rings you installed?  Moly or plain Cast faced rings?

Modern Moly rings will seat right away, boats always load the engine so as soon as you have it in gear and accelerate from near idle to 4,000 the rings should be seated.  Cast iron faced rings take longer but same thing.  Accelerate under load, idle to 4,000 RPM, maybe 50% throttle 1st try, then 70% and on a third time 100% from idle to 4,000 RPM and you should be good.  Do not hold it at high RPM which builds combustion heat, when you hit 4,000 RPM back off bring it down to at least 2,000 and let it cool some.  Should have noted first, make sure your timing is perfect before the break in is attempted.  Idle timing can vary and not hurt your engine but Timing at RPM is very important.   I think most state that 34* of timing by 3,500 is safe and works well in the 351W engine.   You do not want more than that to avoid detonation.  Some OEM distributors may keep advancing the timing till 4,000 RPM you should check so you can set yours up proper.   Regardless of where it stops advancing, you need to know how much advance it is getting because at 37 or more degrees you risk detonation which can cause engine damage.  Timing should advance smooth and evenly from idle to where it maxes out.  So maybe 8* at idle and 34* at 3,500 would be close and safe.  If your distributor springs are old and tired the advance may come in too fast and cause acceleration issues.  Timing properly set you should check vacuum, if vacuum is 15+ inches and steady at idle your engine is tight and it verify’s your valves are all closing properly, no vacuum leaks and steady vacuum is a good indicator the engine is ready for use.

Before accelerating it is prudent to put at least 20 minutes run time on the engine to let the valve train and other parts fully seat before hitting high RPM.

The most important step is to not let it overheat or get hot at all, temps should stay very close to your thermostat opening temp, 140* or so.   A new engine makes more heat than a broken in engine so watch this and be careful of high temps.

After initial ring break in it is good to vary engine speeds for the first few hours use, again to help all engine parts mate well to each other.   After a couple hours use I would not hesitate to use it for a ski run or 10 and enjoy your hard labors results.   First oil change after 10 hours use because every engine build will leave some machining dust inside the engine and you want to get that out after break in.  For engines started on a Dyno the operators tell me blow by pretty much goes away after the first engine pull on the dyno when using Moly rings.

Boats and Dyno’s operate pretty much the same, you load the engine and accelerate against that load.  It is perfect for breaking in new rings.  Blow by falls off or is significantly reduced when rings seat in.

Modern rings do like a pretty smooth cylinder finish not the old school rough hone.  A professional hone will allow the quick seat of your rings.

This is a boat engine break in so it is simple.  A new car has so many more systems to break in that the procedure is more complicated.  Differentials, Transmissions, transfer cases, brakes and drive lines all need to break in with a new car.   You are only doing the engine.

Did you say beer and a nine-hour boat ride?????  In the winter where there is no one on the lake? Sign me up as a test driver.  Drinking for nine hours will be a challenge, but I accept the challenge.