Glass Layup Schedule on '82 2001?

Sometimes could be as much as 90 miles each way.  Most of the time less.

Winner and undisputed World Champion with a 10-0  record is john b and his Mustang 

 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=24377&title=not-another-mustang-restoration-thread

Now that this covid thing is hopefully over I'll have to check up on him and see how he's doing.

Got the sides carpeted this weekend.  Hopefully will have the floors done before the week is out.

And yeah that wiring looks a mess. Make sure you run a heavier positive and ground from the block under the dash to the engine, they were undersized when built.  

If you decide to rewire the dash, also messed up when built, I can send before and after pictures of mine.  Worked out well and isn't that hard if you pull the dash and work on it in the kitchen in  the evening, while discussing life with your very patient wife.

Are you working from a wiring diagram or just wingin' it?
 

Somebody may have replaced the alternator with an internally regulated one in the past and ditched the external one since it wouldn't be needed.

And that would lead to some unused wires and maybe contribute to the wiring mess.

How about a picture of your alternator?

Just to help get a diagram that's at least as close as possible, do you have an ammeter on the dash and not a voltmeter?

So you must mean you have a diagram that's not an 82.  Now I get it  

Once you post whether you have an ammeter or voltmeter, a diagram might come along.  

If you want to test the Neutral Safety switch, take both wires off the switch, disconnect your shift cable from the transmission and put the transmission in neutral using the shift lever on the transmission............then using an ohmmeter, check that you have continuity (something near zero ohms) Continuity means it's good and no continuity means it's bad. There's no adjustment of the switch itself, just the cable and no matter how you adjust the cable a bad switch is a bad switch.

Your spinning shaft in neutral sounds like a slightly dirty neutral that most likely won't be an adjustment issue, Lots of people live with a dirty neutral unless it gets too bad. 

Here's a wiring diagram that PCM used in the early 70's when they were a division of Waukesha. It's pretty good for engines up till the 83/84 timeframe when they started using an internally regulated alternator. I put circles around areas that you'll find different.

In the orange circle at the top it shows a dotted line and says "clip this wire if ammeter is used. Since you have a voltmeter that line  isn't clipped and goes to the starter solenoid through your 40 amp breaker and the line going to the dash for the ammeter is clipped off and taped and the ammeter and Red wire in the blue circle don't exist.

The Yellow circle is where your Neutral Safety Switch would be wired in.

The Green circle is an Idiot light that you don't have and the Purple circle is a rev limiter that you don't have.

The dash section doesn't show the fuses that are on your dash and doesn't show everything that's on the dash.

It's probably as good as you'll get for a diagram that's representative of your 82 

I'll guess that you're using the diagram below which works good for 83/84 ish up until the late 90's for carbureted 351 PCM's.with a distributor

It's a homegrown diagram by TRBenj that get posted by different people all over the internet whether it really pertains or not.

If you need the voltage regulator you're asking about, it wouldn't be that hard or expensive to get an internally regulated replacement for the Mando internally regulated alternator used in the later 80's and wire your engine per the TRB diagram that's a whole lot easier to follow 

Hopefully this helps with your wiring cleanup job and doesn't just confuse you more 

There's also a dash diagram floating around that shows wiring for a dash with an ammeter that maybe you've seen