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1964 CC Classic Restoration

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 11:24am
Boat Build date was 01/27/1964 Engine Serial No. CE31R319045
E=312, 3= 1963, 1=Trans 1:1, R=right hand, 319045=serial numberm

Sean, color is Turquoise, my loose reference is Blue

Do not know too much about the boat yet, so far traced it back 3 prior PO's, Charles Weigano in Columbus Ohio sold to Sun Ray Marine, Richard Belz of Knoxville Tennessee purchased from Sun Ray, John Walsh of Lexington Kentucky purchased from Mr Belz and I purchased from John.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 11:42am
Bruce, I think that was just thicker boards to strengthen the corners but I didn't take an extra close look at it.

Also didn't see if it had markings on the intake. I guess those carbs have annular boosters and run extremely well when they are rebuilt properly. Pretty neat stuff,

Maybe they got tired of the side drafts and slapped on an auto intake from the car? The hard fuel line has proper colored and aged paint on it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

Bruce, I think that was just thicker boards to strengthen the corners but I didn't take an extra close look at it.

Also didn't see if it had markings on the intake. I guess those carbs have annular boosters and run extremely well when they are rebuilt properly. Pretty neat stuff,

Maybe they got tired of the side drafts and slapped on an auto intake from the car? The hard fuel line has proper colored and aged paint on it.


If the motor box has been altered, that's a tell tale sign.

The intake is interesting though as the runners in the rear are taller and nothing like our intake which is a Ford intake. That in combination with the thermostat cover would suggest that it could be factory, if not then someone could have made a conversion kit? Also, as we've seen around here, some people are crafty and come up with neat stuff on their own.

People been swapping them over since they were invented much to Pete Brainard's dismay.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:10pm
Doesn't look altered.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:16pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Doesn't look altered.


You at the Matterhorn already?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:23pm
Still torqued from last night.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:27pm
My 70 H/M came with an Autolite 4100 C8AE AF. They are date coded on the tag and the casting date is on the lower casting. Mine has a date code of 8K11 or Nov 11, 1968. The castings were done in mass and the casting date of mine (5/2/67) is very common, the date on the tag is the date they were assembled. Many, like mine, were in inventory for a while before being shipped. The 4100 was used in performance applications with many being installed on 428 Police Interceptors. Many were sold to aftermarket companies like Holman Moody. A few early Shelby GT500s used them as well. That is consistent with it being on an marinized engine built by an aaftermarket company. Check your date codes and it will be good supporting evidence for the originality. I am using a Holly Marine carb on mine for safety and keeping the original on a shelf for decoration.
1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:31pm
Another possibility is that by then the YH's were discontinued or Ford decided to provide the induction on their industrial engines. That carb is very similar to the Autolite 2bbl originally on my HM. Like the article Zach referenced very easy to work on the top comes off and the main jets are located in the bottom of the bowel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 12:49pm
I'll have to look at mine john and see if it has a date on it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-14-2017 at 1:12pm
Nice boat.
On the tune-up, be sure and use spark plug wires with a 90 degree dizzy cap connector.
Also, I have the correct Interceptor paint mix.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2017 at 1:21pm
Here are some pics of the carb and intake for reference.






Did some buffing this weekend, as I put my hands and eyes on about every inch of the deck and hull the boat is in surprisingly good condition for it's age, there are not many scratches or gouges anywhere on the boat, all of the pieces are there and the seat bases are still original with the serial numbers stamped on them. Unfortunately the white gel has cracking throughout and from the boot stripe down the wetted surfaces have been painted or something has been applied to the gel, it's a mess and is going to be quite a job to remove. Anyhow we will save all that for another thread, just wanted to add a couple boat pics.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2017 at 1:28pm
I suspect that someone slapped some resin on the hull from the waterline down. I'd go after it with a plastic scraper first, then maybe sandpaper.

Nice Subaru.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2017 at 1:39pm
The deck looks great. That looks like a Ford intake to me. Does it say EOZ 8426 B on the back? What's the writing on the thermostat housing say?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2017 at 4:32pm
Bruce, I will take a look next time I am in the boat.

Another question, the bilge is an oily mess and the motor could use a bath as well, before I start wrenching or changing fluids I wanted to clean up as best I could. Going to use rags to wipe/soak up as much of whats there as I can, thoughts on what works best, something I may have under the sink, to degrease / rinse after that?? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2017 at 5:10pm
Original formula aerosol Gunk will work on the engine , might need to use stiff cleaning brush on it too. The runoff will start on the bilge too. Dawn, hot water and a pressure washer will help out down there also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2022 at 2:44pm
Want to replace the cap and rotor, appears dist was converted to electronic ignition at some point.
Dist: Mallory Model YL, type 387 A, Dearborn engine part 6050 BB
Cap appears to be Sierra 18-5376, looking for any alternate part #'s, Mallory 9-29402 appears NLA, cannot find any local supplier so will need to buy online and all I can find is Sierra.

A bit lost on the correct rotor or even how to remove it, any ideas?





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2022 at 3:41pm
Check here you big lug. I think all Ford V8's YL are created equal but maybe Ken would know for sure -  Rotor should come off just by pulling it up like most others,check underneath to see if it's a Mallory E spark conversion,that rotor has a interrupter on it which Summit might have.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2022 at 3:43pm
IIRC they take the same Sierra kit.  Hurc that rotor off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2022 at 5:05pm
If you were to send me a PM with your address, i have "this friend" who'd send you a genuine Mallory cap and the rotor with the black plastic interrupter or shutter assembly for the price of ............well nothing Wink

He's got a "few" of them hanging around

Like Riley and Gary said, pull it hard with a little wiggle and it'll come off. They're a pretty tight fit and there's nowhere to pry due to the shutter wheel being built as an assembly with the rotor..

It's pretty much guaranteed that it won't take 1817 days either. Wink

it could be a Unilite module or an E Spark module under there. There the same except one was assembled by humans and the other by automated machines. 

One was double the price of the other too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-18-2022 at 5:34pm
By the way Quinner, the best place to find that Mallory cap is on EBAY.

You look for OMC 982209 and they're around 20 bucks for a repackaged Mallory cap. (new old stock)
It's a closely guarded secret so don't tell anybody Wink

The rotor and shutter wheel assembly is a Mallory 335 for your distributor.

Usually around 20 bucks too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2022 at 7:04pm
There's a package on the way with a rotor and cap.

The USPS says it'll be there on Friday and the tracking number is in a PM.

That's quite a few days less than 1817 and counting Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-21-2022 at 7:40pm
He's waiting for the mailman at the end of the street with his tool box ready Wink 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-02-2022 at 12:51pm
OK, thank you Ken, new parts in hand and toolbox ready!!

And so it resume's, renamed this thread to begin the journey of the full resto, quick recap on the anticipated path:

Been running the boat a bit, new plugs and fresh oil/filter, actually just did another change to flush out the years of crud, a dose of restore on the first change, marvel added for the second, first change turned black again relatively quickly, 2nd time seems to be the charm. Next on the list is to complete the tune-up, ordered a new set of MSD plug wires, one completed end only so I can custom fit at the cap as needed, (2) 90's in this config. Another have not done that in ages on making my own set, should be fun, also got some cylinder markers to include now that I have all that documented. Plan on doing cap/rotor wires once new wires are received, the wires there now are rough, by all appearances may be original, so all in hopefully should get her running like a top :). BTW, my carb rebuild appears to be a great success, after adjusting the idle screws a bit she runs and starts great, once warm fires straight up!! Do need to add an inline filter as none exist, on my list as well.

Want to get as much run time in as possible and then off to the Barn for the winter rehab:
On the motor, degreased and pressure washed the motor and bilge, it was a huge oily mess, much better now. She appears to have some compromised gaskets and possible oil leaks, going to do a compression test and see what we find also. From there will be pulling the motor, how much we do will be dependent on the PSI results, for now just Planning on gaskets as needed, clean and paint, that could certainly change. The 312 does appear to have some blow by, so who knows.

On the interior, all wood structures although in good condition, do need some love, that will all get addressed, may also raise the base heights in that process and redo the serial number stampings as applies. All vinyl and flooring will be replaced as that is all toast. Dash to get new gauges as needed, want to add an hr meter, be it in dash or doghouse, TBD.

On the Hull, I removed all that hull side waterline resin already, so hull and deck just need to be sanded/polished back to their former glory, do have a good start on all that. The bottom is another story, also had resin added, it's a mess. My plan for that is to sand as needed for paint ready, going to paint the bottom like Reid's 62' Classic to hide all that, Turquoise to match the top deck, bottom and up the sides to meet the boot stripe. think that is going to be a really great look and I am excited to add more color as well. also on the look out for the missing vent windows, if anyone happens upon any for sale plz let me know. Also like to add a platform (blasphemy I know) but that is way down the list unless I happen upon one for cheap.

On the Trailer, trailer it came with was junk and non-original, Thank you Bruce for donating the new to me #2 trailer and Cousin Donald for the assist in getting the poor old Barracuda hull off the trailer at the dump, it was a sad site to watch that D6 crush that hull to smithereens. #2 will get some attention once all the boat work is completed, for now it works.

All that said, need to re-educate myself on the adding photo's thing, be calling Gary for an assist on that!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Riley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-04-2022 at 8:08am
Great to see a post about an old Correct Craft coming back to life.  Our 312 had blow by which was resolved by changing the PCV valve. I used the same one that the PCM Fords take.  That boat will look great with a turquoise bottom. I think that trailer is a #3, at least that's what PO told me. I've only seen it in pictures.  

Marty Mabe has been a good source for vent window parts.
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